$1900 budget for friend's stereo.

[goku87]

My friend is getting a new vehicle (pretty sure SUV, maybe car) and want's me to stick in the system, and said he could budget $2500 for it. I have ballparked install stuff (including possible enclosure cost and 2nd battery) to be around $500<600. He doesn't mind gay-market items; he just wants a loud system with major bass, and isn't picky on brands.

Suggestions? :thumbup:

[lowsushi]

http://www.powerbassusa.com/products/subwoofers.html

I have a M12 sub in my yarii with an OLD power acoustik fire and ice amp that thumps good and you can feel it. The sub cost me $75 and the box was $45.

[The Architect]

This oughta be good.

http://members.arstechnica.com/x/freeman/homer-eating-popcorn-small-c7873.jpg

Dont forget a line driver & an HO Factory casing alt.

[goku87]

This oughta be good.

http://members.arstechnica.com/x/freeman/homer-eating-popcorn-small-c7873.jpg

Dont forget a line driver & an HO Factory casing alt.

having a major issue trying to get him to get an HO alt. I figure once the lights are dimming with a battery and cap he might get the idea and buy one. And I can't go searching for a quote because he hasn't gotten a car yet lol.

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

Dude here's a kickass deal here for 1/4 of your budget.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=25319

[goku87]

yeah, saw that a few days ago, it doesn't have an amp for the sub, and he want's a lot of bass anyway, and i was never really impressed with Memphis subs. I like their speakers though; I have them in my car.

[talnlnky]

oh yeah... if your boy wants to go with downright shocking.... I challenge him to go with this (http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=692) (he'll need an SUV for it).

The bare minimum to make this worth while is a 5cuft sealed box (think 22in cube).. But really, he'd want to go with something along the lines of 7cuft or larger.... and tuned anywhere from 20hz to 30hz.

This sub honestly, is an amazing sounding sub, the motor design is designed for sq... but it's also awesome at getting loud. due to the size of the cone, it is also very efficient. 1000 watts on this in a ported box would be awesome.


If I had an SUV, and $1000 to spend on sub and amp I'd do this in an instant.... (deep down I miss doing spl).
hell, it would be my dream to put 4 of these in my home theater and choke them with a peavey 2500 each. Would have to run 8awg wire in the house and like a 60amp circuit... ahahaha.

the only way to really give you a comparison of this.... is that this single 21" sub would be like having 3 long stroke (big x-max) 15" subs... think for example having 3 JL 13w7's ported...


another option would be to go with 12-16 Tangband 8" subs.... it sounds stupid... but trust me... when you get a lot of 8's you only need like 10 watts to get loud. I'm not joking, at all. A buddy of mine ran 8 8" subs off 150watts total and it was one of the louder systems i've ever heard in a daily driver, he busted like a 143dB on the termlab meter (the only meter that matters).


oh yeah... don't be fooled, though this sub can take 1500rms.... you would get loud with even 100watts, it has a 90dB at 1watt/1meter sensitivity rating. Most 12" car subs are around 86dB. Also, the motor technology on this sub is very efficient, and doesn't show problems with power compression like 99% of subs on the market do... translation, it doesn't waste power once it starts moving.


If your friend doesn't have the cajones for this 21" monster... well, for $200 less there is a 18" version.

[Ranger SVO]

A friend of mine used PowerBass Subs in his ride. Super Super loud.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y284/wrf01a/MattsBox.jpg

My son also has 2 PowerBass subs in his car. They are very reliable

[goku87]

with the 2/0 how hard would it be to find a distribution block for that? i've got some stainless steel plates some plexiglass laying around i could probably fab something out of, but would prefer an actual dist block.

how hard would it be to squeeze in two of those rls15s?

[goku87]

Hey is that XBL^2 on the Maelstrom the same tech as you guys were talking about on the old RE XXX?

[The Architect]

Hey is that XBL^2 on the Maelstrom the same tech as you guys were talking about on the old RE XXX?

si.

[goku87]

si.

He is getting an SUV. Sounds like that Maelstrom is going to be the winner, let's talk amp.

[talnlnky]

Hey is that XBL^2 on the Maelstrom the same tech as you guys were talking about on the old RE XXX?

Yep... the XBL^2 is the hotness, 2/0awg welding cable will fit into a normal 1/0awg distroblock... welding cable uses slightly less strands which makes it the slightest bit less flexible... but it's also a more efficient use of space... so it still fits... Plus.... 1/0awg connectors are oversized to begin with.... You MIGHT have to trim off a few strands that fray out... but it'll fit.

[talnlnky]

with the 2/0 how hard would it be to find a distribution block for that? i've got some stainless steel plates some plexiglass laying around i could probably fab something out of, but would prefer an actual dist block.

how hard would it be to squeeze in two of those rls15s?

The RLS has a high qts, and thus its requires big boxes... so....putting too in ported boxes would be huge... two in sealed boxes.... this is what sound splinter reccomends, 3.0 cu ft - infinity net volume sealed or 5.0 - 9.5 cu ft net volume vented, Fb = 15 - 22 Hz


Honestly.... the 21" would fit in a smaller box. Both options would be awesome... the main problem with the RLS is that it has a very low sensativity rating of 83dB (the maelstrom is over 89). You'll have to put in twice as much power into the rls even if you get two of them just to be as loud.

[talnlnky]

as for an amp.... it's rated 1600rms.... But that is a thermal rating, not a mechanical rating, if you don't trust your buddy with a volume knob on own system for fear that he'll turn all the eq's and gain knobs up, send your sub a clipped signal and then blow it all up... then i'd just get any old Class D amp that can push 1000 rms at either a 1ohm or 4ohm load.

if he understands that the gain & eq options are not volume controls, then I'd say get him any amp in the 1200-2000 rms range at 1ohm or 4ohm.

the sub is DVC 2ohm.

did a quick search and here are some amps that could work.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p7500/BXI-2010D--Hifonics-2000W-1-Channel-MonoBlock-Amplifier.htm

http://www.woofersetc.com/p8089/ASA15001Dx--PowerBass-1-Ch-1500-Watt-Auto-Sound-Amplifier.htm

http://www.woofersetc.com/p8088/ASA10001Dx--PowerBass-1-Ch-1000-Watt-Auto-Sound-Series-Amplifier.htm

http://www.woofersetc.com/p8095/A2400DB--Power-Acoustik-1-Ch-2400-Watt-Class-D-Amplifier.htm

don't feel as though you have to go off these amps tho... Just keep in mind Class D, 1 or 4ohm load, and that it'll require 100-200amps worth in fuses depending on how big you go.

[talnlnky]

I think I should bluntly state one of the "drawbacks" of the motor technologies used on the RLS & the maelstroms.

The RLS uses LMT (linear motor tech)... where basically the voice coil is wound thicker at the top and bottom of the coil than in the middle.... think of the voice coil being say 2-3inches tall, and being almost hourglass shaped. when the cone moves outward, or inward there will be more coil in the magnetic gap... meaning... the sub will become slightly more efficient the more power you put into it..... THIS CAN BE DANGEROUS in the hands of a bass head... because they will be turning up the volume... and turning it up... and then turning.. and SLAP SLAP SLAP... they just launched the coil out of the gap, slapped the backplate, or tore the suspension... Also... It is a linear motor technology which means you wont start to hear tons of distortion when you start to reach the subs mechanical limits.


XLB^2... motor technology which works kind of opposite as LMT... instead of making more coil, they cut away at the magnetic flux (reduce the steel). It is a linear motor technology as well... it will be low distortion all the way till it pops... Uneducated people can blow these very easily.... similar to the dumb car driver who forgot to change oil, or runs there car at 6,000rpm everywhere they go.


with that said, linear motors are the best thing that's happen to speakers in the past 50 years. If I had the option.... I would ONLY run linear motor designed speakers.... even tweeters can benefit, but the real benefits come in drivers that have a lot of excursion like subs, midbass drivers, and mids.
In my setup, I have tweets, mids, and midbass.... the mids & midbass use XBL^2

In my Home theater, I have a pair of stereo towers & a 12" sub... the sub is XBL^2.


The best sounding sub install in a car used a XBL^2 sub... the loudest sounding Home theater I've ever heard used two 18" XXX (XBL^2) subs with 5000watts of power, and busted over 120dB on the termlab meter @ 20hz. over 130 @ 30hz.

linear motors are amazing... There are many designs, LMT, JL has their own that's used in the W7, the XBL^2 is also found in very select drivers.... Orion uses Split Gap in it's H2 subs... tho they may have gotten caught up in patent infringement and had to stop making those subs... i dunno.

[goku87]

My buddy couldn't qualify for the loan; should have seen it coming. He's still pretty young and doesn't have a credit history yet. No SUV for him. Apparently if he got a cosigner he could get a smaller loan for a car, but that's gonna be down the line.

So that's the bad news, and with all of this adding up...


Toying with the idea of buying another Yaris
0% APR up to 60 mos at the local Toyota dealer
My newly found debt freeness
The 3rd gear in my Cavalier's manual transmission acting... suspicous...


...I'm very sure I'll probably have a Yaris by the end of the week; and I am very interested in this Maelstrom.

I have two JL-500/1 in my Cavalier I'll be yanking soon, those seem like they would be a good choice for powering the Maelstrom, so I have to ask, think I could get the 21" to fit in a 3dr HB?

[talnlnky]

My buddy couldn't qualify for the loan; should have seen it coming. He's still pretty young and doesn't have a credit history yet. No SUV for him. Apparently if he got a cosigner he could get a smaller loan for a car, but that's gonna be down the line.

So that's the bad news, and with all of this adding up...


Toying with the idea of buying another Yaris
0% APR up to 60 mos at the local Toyota dealer
My newly found debt freeness
The 3rd gear in my Cavalier's manual transmission acting... suspicous...


...I'm very sure I'll probably have a Yaris by the end of the week; and I am very interested in this Maelstrom.

I have two JL-500/1 in my Cavalier I'll be yanking soon, those seem like they would be a good choice for powering the Maelstrom, so I have to ask, think I could get the 21" to fit in a 3dr HB?

with the seats positioned all the way forward... yeah.... But do you really want a sub using 90% of your cargo room?

Without tints in your car i wouldn't even suggest you go with such a big sub since it'll be hard to hide. Honestly... a single 12 or 15 ported should do the trick.

Those Jl amps would be a good fit tho... can't they drop to 1.5ohm? that'd be perfect, one on each coil.

Keep in mind, there is an 18" maelstrom too, for $440, which is still an incredible beast.

If you were serious about the 18 or 21 inch.... i'd say, make friends with somebody who's put a wall into a car before.... and go that route. the 21" in a wall would still allow for a good amount cargo room in the back, You'd have to take out the rear seats tho. Walls add a lot of weight tho.... and that will be reflected on the life of your suspension.

[goku87]

Well maybe I'll go with the 18" then. And yeah, the amps go down to 1.5 ohms. I'm just disappointed I didn't get to work on the SUV as I had hoped. Such a disappointment.

[talnlnky]

Well maybe I'll go with the 18" then. And yeah, the amps go down to 1.5 ohms. I'm just disappointed I didn't get to work on the SUV as I had hoped. Such a disappointment.

dude... you will crap yourself when you see an 18" woofer... they are nuts.

Anyways, I still think you should think some more about taking on a big woofer like that in a yaris. Buy the yaris, save up the money, and then start a new thread and we'll see if it still sounds like a good idea.

side thought.... how is it you have almost 500 posts on a yaris forum... and you don't own a yaris? You got a GF, or family with one?

[goku87]

dude... you will crap yourself when you see an 18" woofer... they are nuts.

Anyways, I still think you should think some more about taking on a big woofer like that in a yaris. Buy the yaris, save up the money, and then start a new thread and we'll see if it still sounds like a good idea.

side thought.... how is it you have almost 500 posts on a yaris forum... and you don't own a yaris? You got a GF, or family with one?

I've seen an 18" before, it was actually a XXX. They wanted more than $1000 for it (and it was a display model, not used, just hella dusty) so I quickly lost interest. I've been known to stick big subs in small places amungst my friends. In my cavalier I have two 15"s, although no trunk space lol. If I take on the huge sub project for the Yaris it would be more for fun and most likely not permanent. More or less a "because I can" thing.

And as for the # of posts vs. my current ownership status of a Yaris, I would like to direct you to here:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23770

[sqcomp]

I think it would be fun to do a big woofer project...

Although I'm the one that is forcing myself to go from ID 15s down to IDQ 12s.

Big woofers are the $hit.

[talnlnky]

I've seen an 18" before, it was actually a XXX. They wanted more than $1000 for it (and it was a display model, not used, just hella dusty) so I quickly lost interest. I've been known to stick big subs in small places amungst my friends. In my cavalier I have two 15"s, although no trunk space lol. If I take on the huge sub project for the Yaris it would be more for fun and most likely not permanent. More or less a "because I can" thing.

And as for the # of posts vs. my current ownership status of a Yaris, I would like to direct you to here:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23770
ahhh.... the horn that wouldn't go off.... I remember that post. Ok... I understand.

Yeah, the new XXX uses LMT instead of XBL^2. RE has gone downhill a bit since they got bought out by US AMPS... still decent product, but much more expensive now. The XBL^2 XXX 18 used to cost around $450 brand new, and had a higher sensitivity rating than the new one.

I'm personally not a huge fan of LMT, but that is only because the drivers that use that type of voice coil winding tends to cause low sensitivity ratings and a high qts value which isn't very good for ported designs. They also cost more too. If I was looking to do infinite baffle designs, i'd look hard at the LMT subs on the market.

[goku87]

He hasn't given up on getting an SUV just yet. He has been prowling craigslist for something. He found a couple that he almost bought, they weren't exactly what he wanted, but each time we go check out a car it's a little better than the last. I've got high hopes lol.

As for me I'm going to hold off on getting a Yaris until all the snow melts. I don't want all the nasty shit on the road getting all over my new paint job. :cool:

[talnlnky]

He hasn't given up on getting an SUV just yet. He has been prowling craigslist for something. He found a couple that he almost bought, they weren't exactly what he wanted, but each time we go check out a car it's a little better than the last. I've got high hopes lol.

As for me I'm going to hold off on getting a Yaris until all the snow melts. I don't want all the nasty shit on the road getting all over my new paint job. :cool:

good idea.

[goku87]

If everything goes well tomorrow, my buddy will have a new SUV.

And the winner is: