Transmission Fluid - My car is ruined - help

[chattersking]

Toyota Yaris 2008 Auto with 60000 Kilometres. Toyota dealer asked $235 for transmission oil change. On craigslist found somebody willing to do it for $85. The guy drained and filled with about 3 litres of "CASTROL MULTI VEHICLE IMPORT ATF"
Now when Im reading on this site it says that I should only use "GENUINE TOYOTA ATF WS".
Eventhough my car seems to be running fine and didnt see any difference Im extremely worried that I may have used the wrong oil and ruined my transmission. When I called back the guy he says that oil is compatible with all toyota/honda other cars and should be no problem. I know that I should have gone to toyota dealership and get it done there but I was just trying to save some money :( had I known that I should have only used the Genuine toyota atf ws oil I would have never went to this guy.
Im extremely worried that I might have ruined my car and dont know what should i do, i cant even type properly because my hands are shaking. :cry: I have spent a lot of my hard earned money to buy this car and plan to keep it for a long time and dont want to damage it.

Please advise what should I do. :confused: :frown:

[lowsushi]

I would call a local dealership and ask them just to see what they say. If you know the brand he used try to look up their website and see if there is any info too.

Sorry I can't help more, best of luck.

[Doc Zaius]

I'm pretty sure you're fine! Car manufacturers will always say to use "genuine" OEM products.

Anybody more expert than me want to comment as to the compatibility of these two fluids?

BTW, what's the recommended change interval for ATF?

[chattersking]

according to castrol website it is compatible with Toyota, however i cannot understand what exactly is the difference between castrol atf and toyota atf ws. i really dont know what to do now because every google search im doing is giving my conflicting reports and freaking me out more.

http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9012226&contentId=7028224

[kargoboy]

Read your manual. It should be this:

http://www.etimago.com/yaris/TSB/TS-TC010-07%20%28World%20Standard%20Automatic%20Transmissio n%20Fluid%20%29.pdf

Which, by the way is posted right on this forum, too.

The Castrol is not compatible.

That said, I still wouldn't pay a dealer $235, just make sure who you hire is using the right product.

[127.0.0.1]

your tranny is not ruined but you must go have it
machine-flushed with the full amount of proper fluid (way more than
can simply drain out) or you do risk damage

[UTVitz]

If I were in your position, I'd go get it changed to the Toyota ATF. Any local shop can do it, just bring your own fluid or see if the guy that initially did it will give you a break on putting the right stuff in if you buy the fluid. Any transmission is way to expensive to even think about taking a chance on messing around with-that and your piece of mind.

[SilverGlow]

You f'd up OP....you should have got the tranny machine flushed and refilled and at the proper temperature too.

You save a few dollars but are vulnerable to big dollars in repair cost. Therefore you saved NOTHING paying that idiot $85 do scam you.

Not too late!!! Just take it to another independent garage WITH the proper flusing machine and use GENUINE Toyota tranny fluid.

Do it ASAP...take off work and get this F-up resolved today. By the way, the Toyota dealership here in Orange County routinely mails out coupons for auto-tranny flushing and these ask only $120 for this service...also, not needed for your Yaris until 100,000+ miles.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

seeing as this was a DRAIN AND FILL only i say your OK. you could take it to a toyota dealer and get the COMPLETE flush(15 quarts of WS) to be safe or just run it like it is.....

[SilverGlow]

seeing as this was a DRAIN AND FILL only i say your OK. you could take it to a toyota dealer and get the COMPLETE flush(15 quarts of WS) to be safe or just run it like it is.....

I strongly disagree....drain and flush will not remove all the particulates....his tranny really needs to be flushed for longevity, and using the wrong fluid is just plain wrong. No need to go to a Toy stealership either....better to go to an independent garage, and shop around for price and procedures first, making sure they use Genuine Toy WS fluid...this is what I'd do if I want the tranny to last 250k or more miles.

[ddongbap]

Did you guys miss the part where he states his tranny is already ruined?

[SilverGlow]

Did you guys miss the part where he states his tranny is already ruined?

You need to learn to read! ;-)

He never said the tranny was ruined. He is worried that it might be ruined...big diff, yea?!? lol

[ddongbap]

You need to learn to read! ;-)

He never said the tranny was ruined. He is worried that it might be ruined...big diff, yea?!? lol

O sry. Btw, it says MY CAR IS RUINED in his title. Thats all I had the attention span to read. MY ADDHD DHDHDHD is in full effectx today.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

seeing as this was a DRAIN AND FILL only i say your OK. you could take it to a toyota dealer and get the COMPLETE flush(15 quarts of WS) to be safe or just run it like it is.....

I strongly disagree....drain and flush will not remove all the particulates....his tranny really needs to be flushed for longevity, and using the wrong fluid is just plain wrong. No need to go to a Toy stealership either....better to go to an independent garage, and shop around for price and procedures first, making sure they use Genuine Toy WS fluid...this is what I'd do if I want the tranny to last 250k or more miles.

disagree with the COMPLETE FLUSH suggestion?

[YarisSedan]

Castrol ATF is not compatable with the new world atf our yaris have. If it was a older toyota yes. But not ours. Even if it was your not supose to drain and refil our type of transmission. Only 100 percent exchange according to toyota. You can not reuse any of the old fluid its not compatable to mix old with new. Why i dont know you probally could be okay.

But either way you look at it your only option is to now take it to toyota and have them do a complete flush of the system. Which is probally why it was costing 235. Which is not untirely unreasonable. Since our systems can take as much as 15 quarts sometimes more of transmision fluid. And i know its really expensive for the fluid. Around 10 bucks or more per quart. They have to disconect the lines from your transmission to the radiator and hook up the machine to evacuate all the fluid and put in fresh new.

I wouldnt worry about anything honestly since its such short term you should be okay. I was just get the flush the dealer was goign to perform. I would not mention anything about what you just did. They can try to hold it against you incase of any warrenty issues with the transmission incase it does fail. And guess what if it does fail shortly after it would be after they performed a transmission service heh.

[YarisSedan]

Not to rub it in if you look at what you were getting, paying little over 200 is not a rip off but paying 80 bucks for what you got was a rip off. Just draining out and topping off 3 quarts of generic fluid. Its like you paid 80 bucks for a oil change but with no filter.

[127.0.0.1]

disagree with the COMPLETE FLUSH suggestion?


exactly. it is not as though he got water in it, it is only the wrong ATF. the difference between ATF as WS is not so significant to require a rebuild or new clutch packs. just get it flushed once and go with it. maybe flush again in 30,000 to be sure. WS is lifetime stuff. ATF is not.

[supmet]

I've had dexron 7 in my transmission for like 20,000 miles or more now, which the dealer told me is not compatible.. my car runs fine

You can get a salvage tranny for the cost of 2 or 3 flushes. I wouldn't worry too much

oh and lifetime any fluid is a joke.

[chattersking]

First of all thank you so much for your replies - your information was very valuable and helpful to me and I thank you all from the bottom of my heart.
Please let me have a moment to explain the whole situation.
I purchased a used Yaris Sedan with 50K Kilometres and considering it is a 2008 model i would say it was driven a lot. Therefore my transmission oil was found dirty during a recent oil change. After contemplating back and forth regarding the "lifetime" oil guarantee from Toyota I thought to better be safe then sorry and decided to change my transmission fluid for good. However Toyota quoted me something around $200 for a "DRAIN & REFILL" (trust me they say they only do this method). I found a better deal thru a local "mechanic" for $85. As per my previous post he proceeded to use three one litre cans of Castrol Multi Import Vehicle ATF and claimed that it is compatible for Toyota based on the product labelling. Satisfied and happy I drove back home enjoying the smooth feel of my car without having any single clue of what was about to come. Since I dont have an owners manual I was not able to read the important information regarding proper Toyota transmission fluid. After coming back home and stumbling around this website I found out the real truth. Obviously since the repair was done by a local "mechanic" in his backyard and by cash I screwed myself big time as this son of a gun will not stand his service.
Today after reading all your reviews I went to Toyota dealership and purchased genuine Toyota ATF WS one case of 12 cans for $100. Obviously the parts department guy was wondering why do i need so much instead of just 3,4 liters. I told him everything honestly as what had occurred and he suggested to me that instead of going to another local mechanic whose flushing methods may not be proper I should rather do it from them. Having no choice and learned my lesson I decided to flush my transmission from them.
The total came out about $200 plus my earlier $100 for the fluids. Not to forget the earlier $85 that i had spent on the idiot.
Anyways i was not able to see what exactly Toyota did since i was called back after an hour but i believe that they did carried out all the necessary repairs as were needed. There is no difference in driving and my car still runs smooth as it used to be before all this hoopla.

After going thru all these experiences and learning a valuable yet painful lesson i find myself still confused regarding what to believe. Genuine vs non genuine, dealer vs local mechanic and all that. I guess it is all about common sense knowing what and who to choose for when!

Again thank you so much for all your help - let my experience serve as a lesson to all of you so that god forbid you dont have to go thru this. :rolleyes:

[Hershey]

the A.T.F. can go as far as 100,000 miles . Makes me believe that it's a synthetic tranny fluid . Any thoughts on this ?

[auxmike]

I don't know, but I'm not messing with mine!
There is a sticker right on the neck of the tranny dipstick stating no need to change the fluid.
Stick to oil changes.....:biggrin:

[Hershey]

take a look at this . www.amsoil.com/storefront/atl.aspx . Makes me think the WS is a synthetic . Know that the newer VIBES and MATRIX now use synthetic gear oil ( GL-5 ) for the manual tranny . Not sure about new COROLLAs and SCION XDs . Would think so since they too have the same 5 speed manual transmissin and 1.8 ltr. engine . Wonder if the manual tranny for YARIS now comes with synthetic gear oil . :iono: Hard to get that kind of info out of TOYOTA . Bummer . :rolleyes:

[ctrj]

Manual Yaris does indeed come with WS. I drained mine at 75k and refilled with Mobil 1 synthetic.

[Hershey]

manual tranny for YARIS uses gear oil , not A.T.F.. If I read what you wrote right .

[ctrj]

manual tranny for YARIS uses gear oil , not A.T.F.. If I read what you wrote right .

No, from what I understand, they put WS fluid in the manual tranny too. I will check with a tech today to confirm.

[127.0.0.1]

I don't know, but I'm not messing with mine!
There is a sticker right on the neck of the tranny dipstick stating no need to change the fluid.
Stick to oil changes.....:biggrin:

all that matters is:

Toyota WS is lifetime, no need to change it unless:

it becomes discolored
it becomes burnt smelling


so that basically means you may end up changing it around 150,000
YMMV


what makes it special is: ws stands for world standard and was developed
with the hybrid synergy drive systems in mind. Toyota uses it everywhere now
so there will be less mistakes moving forward, and one simple ATF fluid for all
Toyotas.

it is the only ATF that won't destroy toyota hybrids and electric drive systems

it has a lower viscosity when cold for energy savings,
and lower viscosity at operating temps...the viscosity rises when it gets really hot and then
matches atf T-IV viscosity

transmissions are specifically built for it.

any other fluid can and will cause long term clutch failures, solenoid failures...etc...

[Hershey]

No, from what I understand, they put WS fluid in the manual tranny too. I will check with a tech today to confirm. it's gear oil . Had an '08 manual and changed factory installed gear oil to a better synthetic gear oil . REDLINE MT-90 ( GL-4 , 75w-90 ) .

[supmet]

all that matters is:

Toyota WS is lifetime, no need to change it unless:

it becomes discolored
it becomes burnt smelling


My tranny fluid was "discolored" at about 10k, maybe earlier. :iono:

I changed it at 60k, when the shifting became noticeably less smooth.

[Hershey]

apparently to verify the type of A.T.F. you'll need to remove the transmission dipstick and should see either W.S. or T-IV stamped just above the FULL MARK . The W.S. stands for WORLD STANDARD .

[Lazerdot]

I put AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w-90 in my MT.

[1stToyota]

I put AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w-90 in my MT.

You probably should have used AMSOIL 75W-90 GL-4 Transaxle Lube...it's what I used and GL-4 is better for the transaxle than the severe gear GL-5, which is meant for differentials.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Most high performance ATF is synthetic. Just pull the msds and look at the oils.

[jambo101]

I wouldnt think about changing tranny fluid till at least 100k,in fact my last 2 cars got at least 200k on the manual trannies before i sold the cars and i never did get around to changing the tranny oil at all.:biggrin:

[Lazerdot]

My owners manual said GL-5. Plus since I run it hard some times, seemed like a good idea. So far its working real good.

[Hershey]

I believe the SEVERE GEAR is formulated so not to corrode brass parts of manual tranny , unlike most GL-5 gear oils .

[cali yaris]

oh and lifetime any fluid is a joke.

does that include sealed rear differentials?

,in fact my last 2 cars got at least 200k on the manual trannies before i sold the cars and i never did get around to changing the tranny oil at all

may be semantics, but that's pretty much "lifetime" -- longer than I've ever owned a car, (and I'm pretty old). LOL.

[Hard_Yaris]

I've driven my 2005 toyota Echo 190,000KM with noproblems and I've owned it since its birth... it Met a Curb @ 70KM/h and was destroyed in 2009.

Also, I was told that My 2008 Yaris has Gear Oil 75-90. I was going to replace it with the synthetic AMSoil Gear Oil 75-90 and im sure its a GL-4... is that OK?

[Hershey]

yes , GL-4 is fine .

[1stToyota]

My owners manual said GL-5. Plus since I run it hard some times, seemed like a good idea. So far its working real good.

Seems like mine said GL-4/GL-5, or maybe that was Mitchell1?...

GL-5 is better suited for differentials, GL-4 is specifically designed for the softer metals in transmission and transaxles. Link below...

Amsoil's Manual Transmission and Transaxle Gear Lube 75W-90 API GL-4: Specifically formulated for the most demanding manual transmission and transaxle applications (http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mtg.aspx)

[robkay]

Chattersking, let me tell you a story that might make you at least feel a little better.

When I was first married, many years ago, my new wife called me from her parents home one day. She said it was a nice summer day and she was bored and wanted something to do. She knew the car was due for an oil change and asked if it was OK for her to do it. I said NO, I would take care of it myself at a later time. But, she begged me and reminded me that she had taken a Powder Puff Car Maintenance course in high school (a car maintenance class for girls) and that she knew exactly how to do it. Reluctantly, I said "OK, go ahead."

An hour later she proudly called me to tell me that she was all done, but was surprised at how hard it was to pour the motor oil into that metal tube and that she had to borrow a funnel from her father to get the oil into that tube.

I said, "What metal tube????" She said, "The one that has the dip stick in it."

I said, "You didn't remove the round cap on top of the engine that says, 'OIL'?"

There was a long pause, and then, "No. I took out the dip stick on the side of the engine and poured it down the tube. Did I not do it right?"

I said, "No. You just poured 4 quarts of motor oil into the transmission!"

I was freaked just as you were.

Fortunately, there was a good shop not far away and the mechanic said, "Don't worry. Just have her put oil in the engine and run it down here. We'll flush and refill the transmission and you will be fine." That was many years ago and at that time a flush was only about $80, but that was still the most expensive oil change I've ever had in my life! We've been married 33 years now and I've made sure she has not lived that one down!! :biggrin:

[Doc Zaius]

^^^ But the dipstick tube is for measuring the engine oil level... not transmission fluid..? Sound like she just added an extra 4 quarts to the engine oil already in there. Which isn't great either b/c the crank would churn it and get bubbles and etc. Your tranny should've been fine.

[robkay]

Nope--33 years ago, Doc. Different technology. Rear wheel drive. That was how you added tranny fluid in those days. You removed the dipstick from a tube that went down to the transmission (not transaxle) and used a long, skinny funnel that fit into the tube. You would add a little fluid, stick the dipstick back in and check it, stick the funnel back in and add a little more, check it again. Fun times.

[Doc Zaius]

Huh! Well how about that! I stand corrected, sir! :bow:

[robkay]

Huh! Well how about that! I stand corrected, sir! :bow:

Yep...so did the wife! :biggrin:

[Hershey]

we had similar issue with a '93 FORD Festiva ( Mazdz 121 ) with 5 speed manual . Took it to dealer service center to get tranny fluid changed . Come to find out they dumped gear oil in it instead of A.T.F. fluid that it called for ( MERCON ? , long time ago to remember :wink: ) . They must of assumed that it being a manual tranny that it took gear oil . Took it back and they wouldn't change it back to A.T.F. for free :mad: . So , left and did the next 2 changes myself . The car did fine after that . Well until it was rear ended while waiting at red light during a wet snowfall . Since that I always check fluids and level after any service is done .

[N9QGS]

You know what is really sad... Okay so you guys got my hopes up of going to Toyota and getting a complete flush just to be on the safe side... They wont do it, they said it never requires servicing and just to check level at 100,000. And then they got paranoid saying their flush machine is not set up for World Standard fluid and id hate to mix the fluids together. (meaning there would be cross contamination with the fluid the machine is normally being used with), so it sounds like this would be a problem anywhere than to get it flushed. Seriously what am I dealing with here?

UPDATE AGAIN: Toyota referred me to a technical service bulletin stating, and these are the exact words: 100,000 Maintenance Interval — Inspection only; ATF-WS does NOT require any flushing or changing during the life of the vehicle.

This is why Toyota dealerships wont touch my car, they said I should be just fine with what I've been doing. Now you may say go find an independent shop, question is what about cross contamination of and fluids that are already still in their machine if I brought them 15 to 20 qts of ATF-WS, this was a concern to Toyota while they were pondering if they would even consider attempting to do it for me.

[N9QGS]

Okay I think I have my answer, but I will need you guys to verify's this all applies to a Yaris. Im reading to do this yourself (exchange much of the fluid), drain pain of fluid, and refill. Locate and disconnect the transmission return line, and put clear tubing on it to a drain container. Start the car, and put in drive with emergency brake, and you will get the flow of transmission fluid in the convertor and all that draining out and it says to do this process until you see a change in the color of the liquid, then shut engine off, reconnect transmission return line, top fluid, and road test and recheck level. If this is what you recommend I do vs trying to worry about Toyota comments, if its really this easy, Im doing it this weekend. hahah

Anyone know what tool I made need and how to properly identfy where Im disconnecting this transmission line? and what size clear tubing will fit this best? also will I need to keep filling the transmission up during this process (reason I ask draining pan, is putting about 2 to 3 qts of fresh fluid in, if i'm pumping out 10 to 15 qts of old fluid, im gonna run out somewhere, and i dont know if running out while the car is in drive is a good idea)

thanks.. Ron

[SilverGlow]

Okay I think I have my answer, but I will need you guys to verify's this all applies to a Yaris. Im reading to do this yourself (exchange much of the fluid), drain pain of fluid, and refill. Locate and disconnect the transmission return line, and put clear tubing on it to a drain container. Start the car, and put in drive with emergency brake, and you will get the flow of transmission fluid in the convertor and all that draining out and it says to do this process until you see a change in the color of the liquid, then shut engine off, reconnect transmission return line, top fluid, and road test and recheck level. If this is what you recommend I do vs trying to worry about Toyota comments, if its really this easy, Im doing it this weekend. hahah

Anyone know what tool I made need and how to properly identfy where Im disconnecting this transmission line? and what size clear tubing will fit this best? also will I need to keep filling the transmission up during this process (reason I ask draining pan, is putting about 2 to 3 qts of fresh fluid in, if i'm pumping out 10 to 15 qts of old fluid, im gonna run out somewhere, and i dont know if running out while the car is in drive is a good idea)

thanks.. Ron

You might F it all up....just take it to a dealership or reputable garage and let them use their high tech machine to do this job....and use the Toyota fluid too! I would advise against doing this yourself....Gosh, for $75-$120 bucks just let the pros do it fast, quick and right. They have the tools and knowhow you don't. As to oil changes and other types of maintenence, you can do those yourself because they are much easier and less envasive. If your Toy dealership refuses to flush/drain/refill, then there are others that will do it....mine in So Cal will, and others will too.

[CTScott]

Okay I think I have my answer, but I will need you guys to verify's this all applies to a Yaris. Im reading to do this yourself (exchange much of the fluid), drain pain of fluid, and refill. Locate and disconnect the transmission return line, and put clear tubing on it to a drain container. Start the car, and put in drive with emergency brake, and you will get the flow of transmission fluid in the convertor and all that draining out and it says to do this process until you see a change in the color of the liquid, then shut engine off, reconnect transmission return line, top fluid, and road test and recheck level. If this is what you recommend I do vs trying to worry about Toyota comments, if its really this easy, Im doing it this weekend. hahah

Anyone know what tool I made need and how to properly identfy where Im disconnecting this transmission line? and what size clear tubing will fit this best? also will I need to keep filling the transmission up during this process (reason I ask draining pan, is putting about 2 to 3 qts of fresh fluid in, if i'm pumping out 10 to 15 qts of old fluid, im gonna run out somewhere, and i dont know if running out while the car is in drive is a good idea)

thanks.. Ron


I have been running Napa Dexron VI ATF in Crashy. Her AT was 3 quarts low, since her left front axle was yanked loose during her accident (and as I found out putting her in gear before fully reseating that axle - tranny fluid will gush out when put in gear with the axle not seated). The day I wanted to fire her up Toyota was already closed, so I hit my local NAPA, who of course didn't have Toyota ATF WS. I checked out the MSDS for Dexron VI and it the composition and specs seemed to match those of the ATF WS MSDS, so that's what I went with.

The Automatic Transmission section of the service manual (posted in the DIY section of the Forum) shows the location and function (in/out) of the transmission cooler lines.

Here's Amsoil's procedure for DIY flushing an AT:

Follow these additional 5 steps for complete
transmission pan and torque converter fluid replacement.
1) Obtain the total transmission fluid capacity
from the manufacturer or AMSOIL
and have that amount of transmission
fluid available.
2) Place a drain pan large enough to hold the
total fluid capacity under the oil cooler.
Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the
oil cooler and direct the lines toward the
drain pan.
3) With another person, be prepared to add
ATF to the transmission fill hole (dipstick
hole) at the approximate rate as the fluid
is being pumped out the transmission line
into the drain pan.
4) Start the engine, and as the old fluid is
pumped out, add fresh fluid into the
transmission fill hole.
5) When either the fluid color brightens or
the total capacity has been replaced, shut
the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler
lines. All fluid in the transmission pan
and torque converter has now been
changed.


With the vehicle on level ground recheck the
fluid level using the manufacturer procedures outlined
in the owners manual. Check the transmission
and lines for leaks.

[jekqmb]

Wow should have went and had a fluid exchange, most ATF fluids these days are compatible with the yaris... Best fluid I think is maxatf from Valvoline.

[jekqmb]

Doing a drain and fill does not get particles out of the tranny as well and can cause even more build up, get a fluid exchange.... No pressure on the tranny and gets alot of old nasty debris out. I'm an ASE certified tech, i do not like doing drain and fills....I always suggest an exchange in an AT. Drain and fills were okay back in the day when filters were changed out...

[1stToyota]

Doing a drain and fill does not get particles out of the tranny as well and can cause even more build up, get a fluid exchange.... No pressure on the tranny and gets alot of old nasty debris out. I'm an ASE certified tech, i do not like doing drain and fills....I always suggest an exchange in an AT. Drain and fills were okay back in the day when filters were changed out...

Are you sure about that? I've seen several transmissions ruined by 100k because they did a couple of flushes. When I pulled the pans, filters were clogged...transmission was spic-n-span, but filters were trash, probably because mechanic wanted to keep his hands clean. Maybe the flush machines have better features now, these occurrences happened about 5 yrs back. Filters are still sold and changed out and still serve the same purpose they always have, just takes more time and uniforms and hands can get dirty during the process. btw, ASE certified grease-monkey here...A1, A5, A6 and A7 ;)

[auxmike]

I changed the fluid in a 1995 Saturn once, they used a spin on oil filter!:clap: There was even a doughnut shaped magnet on the tranny to catch metal debris.
BTW, in the Saturn owner's manual it tells you HOW to do the procedure yourself.
No mention of flushing out the trannny either.:iono:
Also, I've heard that the dirt build up in an older tranny may actually seal up leaks and flushing the tranny could actually create leaks.
Is there even a changable filter in the Yaris A/T?:confused:

[1stToyota]

I changed the fluid in a 1995 Saturn once, they used a spin on oil filter!:clap: There was even a doughnut shaped magnet on the tranny to catch metal debris.
BTW, in the Saturn owner's manual it tells you HOW to do the procedure yourself.
No mention of flushing out the trannny either.:iono:
Also, I've heard that the dirt build up in an older tranny may actually seal up leaks and flushing the tranny could actually create leaks.
Is there even a changable filter in the Yaris A/T?:confused:

Apparently so. A quick check showed PNs from Fram & Wix

http://cds.activant.com/C2C/C01/63/168/426882439.jpg
http://cds.activant.com/C2C/C01/12/703/94776497.jpg

[jekqmb]

The New machines have no pressure on the tranny and would push the debris up on to the filter screen and clog it up, the old t-techs were junk and ruined trannys when they were flushed out due to pressure. The new Machines are an exchange......98-99% new fluid goes in and you can exchange the fluid all the way to 150k as long as there are no leaks from the tranny. Like i said alot of people get worried about flushes cause of the pressure on the tranny. That is from a T-Tech machine, also alot of new coolant machines are an exchange type unit, so there is not alot of pressure on the radiator.

[1stToyota]

Without pressure I'm wondering if most of the debris stays in the transmission pan, filter, torque convertor, etc...exchanging coolant in a dirty cooling system does little in removing rust build-up and scale, that takes actual flushing. I suspect the exchange process in transmissions are similar, probably get just as good results with pulling the plug on the transmission pan, refilling it and running engine, drain again and refill...fluid will look clean but filter and pan will still be full of debris.

I didn't know pressure was bad for the cooling system...most systems are designed to hold 15-18 lbs pressure.

[JimKellyfan]

I am about to flush mine and priced WS Toyota fluid out for my 2010. I got 6.40/qt, but will shop some more. It is more expensive.
.......For everyone with a dipstick tube......
If you can, get you a hose that is the same size as the trans cooler line.
Also get a cap, to cap off one side of cooler line.
(you can just get the hose if you cap off the one side with a bolt or something.
Go to Lowe's and get a clear graduated measure 5 gallon bucket.
Or, get a regular bucket and make a mark, it will be the 3 gallon line you want.
Go get 14 quarts of WS fluid, unless you have an 05 or older, I believe.
Open 12 of them, the other 2 are for top offs if needed, or next flush.
Pour in about 5 quarts, depending on how fast/efficient/dexterously skilled or not. (open more if you may be slow).
I overfill, yes overfill by 5 quarts, and have the other 7 ready to pour and open.
I have one side of my cooler line in my bucket, the other capped off.
I leave my funnel in place.
If you have a friend, use one, if not, leave your window down or door open or both.
Start er up, and start emptying the other 7 quarts in keeping an eye on your bucket, after also peaking and making sure capped section is not leaking.
Shut er down after 12 quarts out and 12 quarts in.
Put your cooler line back in place.
Start er back up, run through the gears and check the level.
It should be warmed up, yet not as hot (expanded as it could be).
Also, ensure all of this has been done on level ground.
Voila
Flushed and money saved.
If you can change your engine oil you can do this.
Another tip would be clothespin on hose in bucket or similar to make sure hose stays where you want it.
Most places will take your used oil for recycle.
Hope this helps someone.
Let me know any further iteration needed.
But, yeah, as far as any flush getting it all 100%, that won't happen, as won't particulate removal. But, most is better than some or none.
A cheaper get me by way, would be a drain and fill.
Unscrew the plug in the bottom of the pan, and measure that fluid.
Then pour new back in.
My wifes Camry drained out about 7.5 quarts, but I let it sit all day.
She doesn't have a dipstick, so I did hers that way.
But, too hers has a special procedure when doing that, if you are dipstick free, then make sure first.
Doing that, I will have to do it again sooner, hers every 35k, mine, about the same do to driving style.

[JimKellyfan]

On engine oils, I get whats on sale name brand, same weight.
That said, I do the same for the trannys in my life.
Right now, we 2 Toyotas, and they both take WS fluid.
Any other brand, as long as it equals or exceeds the standards, and that is way too much research to waste time on in my mind.
I worked the aftermarket as a tech and a manager, and successfully used it on other cars, the multi fluid.
If I were to buy my own garage, I would price the customer the OEM fluid (WS in this case and also the multi vehicle fluid).
I would recommend the OEM fluid in every case.
If the customer wants to take a chance, let them.
I would advise against it.
On the engine oil, more DIY people do that, so I would gather that is why it is more generalized.
One can find good sales, like last year, or the year before, I forget, when the oil companies had to scramble for the next upgrade, and clear the old oils out. (SF, SJ, SL, SM and so on).
If it were say a Dexron oil for the trans (my old Caprice was Dex 2 or 3), I was comfortable putting a higher numbered Dex in, like 4 or 5).
But, the WS is a specific weight at specific temps and I would use only that.
Hope this helps.

[JimKellyfan]

Coolant, I would just do drain and fill.
Make sure to get distilled water.
I would buy the pure Toyota antifreeze only, no sense in paying for their distilled water, it is cheaper in the grocery store.
Leave the cap on, as it will suck out the reservoir for you too.
If reservoir is stained, you can remove and clean it.
No flush kits, it is merely an alkaline, to counter the acidic effects.
If you really wanna flush, drain and fill with distilled water only, burp it and run 20 miles, then drain and fill again with a 50/50 mix or 60/40 if you wanna go all out.
Distilled water only so as to not conduct electricity and corrode your system faster. Our water pumps are bad enough on their own.

[Yesitisyaris]

I just drain & refill my tranny with ws fluid (2.75 L) every year and plan on replacing the filter next year

[Exiwolfman]

No, from what I understand, they put WS fluid in the manual tranny too. I will check with a tech today to confirm.

gear oil is used in 5 speed

[JimKellyfan]

I just flushed my WS fluid with fresh (capacity 7 qts) I used 8 qts, then topped off any spillage. What an amazing change. It shifted fine before, but I noticed it is now seamless. It shifts better. So, that is great. I bet it gets better fuel mileage now. I am at 71k, and assume nothing was done as history shows. I paid 6.17/qt. for stock WS fluid.

[jack black]

I paid 6.17/qt. for stock WS fluid.

Where did you buy it if I may ask. My local dealers price it at $9+tax. Online shops have it at $7 but S&H kills the deal.

[JimKellyfan]

An update to that 3 gallon line on the DIY, I flushed only 2 gallons as the system only holds 7 qts (6.8 is spec, I believe on my 2010)...Then, I used another quart to account for the spillage, when confirming proper level after.

[birdman]

I just had a panic when I learned that the shop who drained and filled my automatic trans used Redline D6 ATF. Since some of the Toyota ATF WS remains in the system I was concerned that mixing these two brands would cause problems. I called up an old shop were I used to live and spoke with the owner who is a Toyota certified technician and he said these 2 formulas mixed together in these proportions are just fine because these formulas are similar enough chemically that there is no problem. That's a relief. For peace of mind I will insist on independent shops staying with Toyota recommended lubricants from now on.

[Hershey]

You should be fine with the D6 . It states replacement for the WS . Go to these for details . http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?pid=115&pcid=9 and http://www.redlineoil.com/application.aspx .

[jack black]

You should be fine with the D6 . It states replacement for the WS .

D6 is is not an exact replacement for WS. It had no calcium additives whatsoever. Call Dave at Redline if you don't believe me.

[Pern]

Go purchase Toyota WS fluid plus one more court than your car will hold.
1. Drain the pan.
2. Refill the pan with exactly the same amount you drained.
3. Locate and remove the fluid return line from cooler to transmission.
3. Remove it and drain into graduated container.
4. Start the car, drain out the balance of the fluid as you add the new fluid.
5. Reconnect the return line, top off the fluid to proper level.
(As an added benifit you can also change the filter if the fluid is really dirty and burnt).
This will get most of the fluid out of the car cost effectively.