sujonol78
01-29-2010, 04:56 AM
Hi there, I guess some of you had read some of my comment in the thread, and yes you can call me the crazy guy from Indonesia. So in this time I just want to share how we do things in Indonesia, specifically for our beloved 1NZ-FE engine. What we did ( my tuner and me ) is not the SOP for other tuners ( in Indonesia ), nor the only right way, some of them are also doing an even better way of tuning, or the other way around. One thing we should all remember, same car same model same engine even same manufacturing time or person is definitely has different characteristic, means that you cannot 100% copy others tuning to your own car, you can do the same style but definitely requires different fine tuning. I also apologize for using a little bit rude words to describe my feeling.
So this is what I did and will do for my 1NZ-FE ( historically ):
1. My 1NZ-FE is 2005 M/T model, I started to modify it when I start using it in the end of 2007. Previously my father used it, with very minimum maintenance and low grade gasoline. So my mileage starts at 55000km. I started to change the gasoline to the best we have in Indonesia, unfortunately at that time we only have Shell, so I used the Shell’s 95octane gasoline. Currently I’m using “Total” 95 octane gasoline.
2. I changed the engine oil and the transmission oil with a better quality oil, currently I am using Motul 5W-30 oil, and the most important thing is the transmission oil you should use the GL-5 type oil ( OEM factory recommendation, in Indonesia, is GL-3 ). You should feel the difference by now. If you are using auto tranny, I suggest you use a higher grade oil. Motul oil 5w-30 costs USD 10,- / liter
3. The next important modification is using auxiliary intake system ( intake induction system ), it is not turbo or supercharger, but think of it like a coronary by-pass, so it supplies extra fresh air for the engine. Just unplug the vacuum hose that is connected to the throttle body, use a T connector and hose, to make an extension line, then use a couple of valves ( 1 way valve ) and put a filter on the tip. You can experiment with the valves quantity and size, also the hose length until you get the right one. I trust my butt dyno for this, it really improves your acceleration and decrease the engine load. It is completely harmless ( as long as you put a filter on it ) to the engine, because the engine just take the air as much as it needs it ( unlike forced induction or supercharger ). At that time I still used my OEM standard air filter box and the air filter. When you experiment with the auxiliary intake, too much is not good, too little is also not good. There is no specific standard for the size or quantity, it is depend on your car’s characteristic and tuning. It costs no more than USD 40,- per system ( free valve and filter replacement if you are a regular customer ). FYI even if you had installed a forced induction system, this auxiliary intake induction system can also be used ( before and after the forced induction ), your butt dyno is sufficient to tell the different. Picture below.
4. Throttle Body polishing
my tuner do it for FREE ( if you are a regular customer ) and it only takes no more than 30 minutes to polish it, USD 40,- ??? 3 hours??
if you are going NA or still using it for daily transport, I strongly suggest that you don’t polish the whole surface and shiny, because it will affect your fuel consumption and power loss, for NA ( or light modification ) you should make it a slope, just polish it a on the entrance but not too much on the throttle flap area, that way you can get some air pressure and air flow. If you’re going for the forced induction, you can polish the whole surface, because you get the air flow and pressure from the forced induction. For my car, I’m doing NA, and again my butt dyno knows the difference. Picture below
5. Replace the OEM air filter
I replace it with JFC sport air filter, and I took out the intake tube.
by this time your low – mid power band should improved a lot, please excuse me for always using my butt dyno for comparison. JFC sport filter = USD 35,- Picture below
6. Spark plugs
for daily usage, I use Champion spark plugs ( not racing type ), with a little cold characteristic. At this stage I could reach 195 km/hr ( yes, the higher power band still too slow ). Spark plugs ( 4 pcs ) = +/- USD 1 or 2,- ( I got it for free )
7. Ground wiring
I am using custom ground wiring for the engine and battery ( = +/- USD10 – 15,- per set ), again I got it for free.
up to this stage, it is considered as a basic performance standard for my tuner’s shop. You will definitely feel the difference for no more than USD 150,- trust me, I’m not BS-ing.
8. Clutch set
I happened to go to Japan 1 year ago, so ( after consulting with my tuner ) I decided to buy TRD clutch plate and cover. I don’t need to tell you how TRD clutch, or other aftermarket clutch feels, the good thing about TRD clutch is that the clutch pedal is not becoming harder / heavier when you step on it. And no, it doesn’t make any noise. TRD clutch set = USD 500,-
9. Tires
I replaced the OEM tire with Yokohama C-Drive ( asymmetric type ) = USD 80,- per piece. With OEM standard spec and rims ( 185 / 55 / R15 )
10. APEXI Neo
around March of 2009, I installed APEXI Neo for the AFR. Don’t worry, it fits almost any Japanese cars perfectly. If you can’t find the diagram, you can use multi-tester to find the right slot or wire. No need to waste time to debate about the compatibility of A/T or M/T, or which year or model. APEXI Neo + dyno = USD 350,- + USD 70,-
up to this point I got 132,4 HP and max torque 173 Nm. With the total cost of no more than USD 1000,-
you can experiment with various setting for the AFR but please consult with a good tuner who understand about it.
11. Carbon Clean
carbon clean your engine once in a while, you will know the difference. Don’t use the spray type!
12. CamCon for VVTI
installing camcon is a must! I combine it with Apexi Neo ( check out my pics in the member page ). Again I use my butt dyno to feel and know the difference. Please don’t argue or complain about the wiring diagram, it is quite easy to install, just use the multi tester if you can’t find the diagram. Please remember to ask an experienced tuner how to set a suitable parameter for your car, and remember each car has different characteristic. Too much is not good, too little is also not sufficient. In the same time I also added another grounding for the ECU. Camcon price = USD325,-
13. Suspension
I changed my front shock absorber with stiffer one, I use “Monroe” shock absorber. For the rear absorber with “Tokico” shock absorber ( gas type ) and of course stiffer. I am keeping the OEM springs for driving comfort. Monroe shock absorber = USD 100,- Tokico shock absorber = USD 80,-
14. Custom exhaust manifold & Muffler
custom muffler and piping and exhaust manifold. Since I’m running NA and for daily usage, I just add about 3 – 5 mm from the OEM size for the piping and exhaust manifold, and I took out the catalytic converter. Total cost = USD 200,-
Congratulation, now you can experiment with various settings and maximize the performance of your 1NZ-FE with the cost no more than USD 1700,-.
15. Additional auxiliary intake system
I add additional auxiliary intake system on the intake manifold. I punched 2 holes and connected another set of auxiliary intake system. This is quite extreme for daily use, since I have Apexi Neo and Camcon working in the same time, my tuner can adjust the appropriate settings. Picture below
16. Pistons
I use oversize CP Pistons ( 75.5 ), still work in progress
17. Balancing
10,000 RPM balancing for the crank shaft and flywheel, still work in progress
18. Valve clearance
Re-calculate and re-set the valve clearance, still work in progress
I will post the dyno later, but I still trust my butt dyno ;)
I couldn’t have done this without the help of my tuner ( and also my friend ). So if you should ask which tuner I am using, then the answer is Mr. Andreas from the “Phoenix-r”
link for pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/sujonol78/ViosPiggybacks?feat=directlink
So this is what I did and will do for my 1NZ-FE ( historically ):
1. My 1NZ-FE is 2005 M/T model, I started to modify it when I start using it in the end of 2007. Previously my father used it, with very minimum maintenance and low grade gasoline. So my mileage starts at 55000km. I started to change the gasoline to the best we have in Indonesia, unfortunately at that time we only have Shell, so I used the Shell’s 95octane gasoline. Currently I’m using “Total” 95 octane gasoline.
2. I changed the engine oil and the transmission oil with a better quality oil, currently I am using Motul 5W-30 oil, and the most important thing is the transmission oil you should use the GL-5 type oil ( OEM factory recommendation, in Indonesia, is GL-3 ). You should feel the difference by now. If you are using auto tranny, I suggest you use a higher grade oil. Motul oil 5w-30 costs USD 10,- / liter
3. The next important modification is using auxiliary intake system ( intake induction system ), it is not turbo or supercharger, but think of it like a coronary by-pass, so it supplies extra fresh air for the engine. Just unplug the vacuum hose that is connected to the throttle body, use a T connector and hose, to make an extension line, then use a couple of valves ( 1 way valve ) and put a filter on the tip. You can experiment with the valves quantity and size, also the hose length until you get the right one. I trust my butt dyno for this, it really improves your acceleration and decrease the engine load. It is completely harmless ( as long as you put a filter on it ) to the engine, because the engine just take the air as much as it needs it ( unlike forced induction or supercharger ). At that time I still used my OEM standard air filter box and the air filter. When you experiment with the auxiliary intake, too much is not good, too little is also not good. There is no specific standard for the size or quantity, it is depend on your car’s characteristic and tuning. It costs no more than USD 40,- per system ( free valve and filter replacement if you are a regular customer ). FYI even if you had installed a forced induction system, this auxiliary intake induction system can also be used ( before and after the forced induction ), your butt dyno is sufficient to tell the different. Picture below.
4. Throttle Body polishing
my tuner do it for FREE ( if you are a regular customer ) and it only takes no more than 30 minutes to polish it, USD 40,- ??? 3 hours??
if you are going NA or still using it for daily transport, I strongly suggest that you don’t polish the whole surface and shiny, because it will affect your fuel consumption and power loss, for NA ( or light modification ) you should make it a slope, just polish it a on the entrance but not too much on the throttle flap area, that way you can get some air pressure and air flow. If you’re going for the forced induction, you can polish the whole surface, because you get the air flow and pressure from the forced induction. For my car, I’m doing NA, and again my butt dyno knows the difference. Picture below
5. Replace the OEM air filter
I replace it with JFC sport air filter, and I took out the intake tube.
by this time your low – mid power band should improved a lot, please excuse me for always using my butt dyno for comparison. JFC sport filter = USD 35,- Picture below
6. Spark plugs
for daily usage, I use Champion spark plugs ( not racing type ), with a little cold characteristic. At this stage I could reach 195 km/hr ( yes, the higher power band still too slow ). Spark plugs ( 4 pcs ) = +/- USD 1 or 2,- ( I got it for free )
7. Ground wiring
I am using custom ground wiring for the engine and battery ( = +/- USD10 – 15,- per set ), again I got it for free.
up to this stage, it is considered as a basic performance standard for my tuner’s shop. You will definitely feel the difference for no more than USD 150,- trust me, I’m not BS-ing.
8. Clutch set
I happened to go to Japan 1 year ago, so ( after consulting with my tuner ) I decided to buy TRD clutch plate and cover. I don’t need to tell you how TRD clutch, or other aftermarket clutch feels, the good thing about TRD clutch is that the clutch pedal is not becoming harder / heavier when you step on it. And no, it doesn’t make any noise. TRD clutch set = USD 500,-
9. Tires
I replaced the OEM tire with Yokohama C-Drive ( asymmetric type ) = USD 80,- per piece. With OEM standard spec and rims ( 185 / 55 / R15 )
10. APEXI Neo
around March of 2009, I installed APEXI Neo for the AFR. Don’t worry, it fits almost any Japanese cars perfectly. If you can’t find the diagram, you can use multi-tester to find the right slot or wire. No need to waste time to debate about the compatibility of A/T or M/T, or which year or model. APEXI Neo + dyno = USD 350,- + USD 70,-
up to this point I got 132,4 HP and max torque 173 Nm. With the total cost of no more than USD 1000,-
you can experiment with various setting for the AFR but please consult with a good tuner who understand about it.
11. Carbon Clean
carbon clean your engine once in a while, you will know the difference. Don’t use the spray type!
12. CamCon for VVTI
installing camcon is a must! I combine it with Apexi Neo ( check out my pics in the member page ). Again I use my butt dyno to feel and know the difference. Please don’t argue or complain about the wiring diagram, it is quite easy to install, just use the multi tester if you can’t find the diagram. Please remember to ask an experienced tuner how to set a suitable parameter for your car, and remember each car has different characteristic. Too much is not good, too little is also not sufficient. In the same time I also added another grounding for the ECU. Camcon price = USD325,-
13. Suspension
I changed my front shock absorber with stiffer one, I use “Monroe” shock absorber. For the rear absorber with “Tokico” shock absorber ( gas type ) and of course stiffer. I am keeping the OEM springs for driving comfort. Monroe shock absorber = USD 100,- Tokico shock absorber = USD 80,-
14. Custom exhaust manifold & Muffler
custom muffler and piping and exhaust manifold. Since I’m running NA and for daily usage, I just add about 3 – 5 mm from the OEM size for the piping and exhaust manifold, and I took out the catalytic converter. Total cost = USD 200,-
Congratulation, now you can experiment with various settings and maximize the performance of your 1NZ-FE with the cost no more than USD 1700,-.
15. Additional auxiliary intake system
I add additional auxiliary intake system on the intake manifold. I punched 2 holes and connected another set of auxiliary intake system. This is quite extreme for daily use, since I have Apexi Neo and Camcon working in the same time, my tuner can adjust the appropriate settings. Picture below
16. Pistons
I use oversize CP Pistons ( 75.5 ), still work in progress
17. Balancing
10,000 RPM balancing for the crank shaft and flywheel, still work in progress
18. Valve clearance
Re-calculate and re-set the valve clearance, still work in progress
I will post the dyno later, but I still trust my butt dyno ;)
I couldn’t have done this without the help of my tuner ( and also my friend ). So if you should ask which tuner I am using, then the answer is Mr. Andreas from the “Phoenix-r”
link for pictures: http://picasaweb.google.com/sujonol78/ViosPiggybacks?feat=directlink