DRL in Yaris from..?

[Falconia]

Hi,

I decided to add an other thread also in here Modifications, maybe you know better. So the question is, where from Yaris have DRL (Daytime Running Light)s? I have Yaris 2001, so is all Yaris made with DRL?

[CTScott]

The electrical wiring diagrams for 2001 show that some had and some did not have DRL. So, it looks like it was on some Yaris that far back. Even with the current model year (2010) some markets have DRL and some do not.

[Falconia]

The electrical wiring diagrams for 2001 show that some had and some did not have DRL. So, it looks like it was on some Yaris that far back. Even with the current model year (2010) some markets have DRL and some do not.

Is it possible to verify is there DRL or not without taking the cover out under the steering wheel? Can saw it for example from lights or their type of working?

[CTScott]

Is it possible to verify is there DRL or not without taking the cover out under the steering wheel? Can saw it for example from lights or their type of working?

Yes. If your Yaris has DRLs, as soon as you start the engine the headlights will turn on. If they do not, then your Yaris does not have the DRL module.

[Falconia]

Yes. If your Yaris has DRLs, as soon as you start the engine the headlights will turn on. If they do not, then your Yaris does not have the DRL module.

Okay, after starting the headlights light up after few seconds, so yes I have...

Thanks!

[Falconia]

I tried to find DRL module under the steering wheel, but did not found it. There were a few empty sockets and I thought is someone removed the module.

But, when is start the engine, headlights will turn on after one or two seconds, tricky.. Anybody knows where is could find the module and what kind the socket of the module is?

[CTScott]

I tried to find DRL module under the steering wheel, but did not found it. There were a few empty sockets and I thought is someone removed the module.

But, when is start the engine, headlights will turn on after one or two seconds, tricky.. Anybody knows where is could find the module and what kind the socket of the module is?

On your car it is just below the top of the dash, to the left of the speedometer.

31699

[Falconia]

On your car it is just below the top of the dash, to the left of the speedometer.

31699


Oh my god. Looks like impossible thing to remove. I just looked under the steering wheel and it is hard to even see this far.

I asked local Toyota Service about DRL module and they weren't even heard about it. That made me think is these models even DRL (here in Finland). Thought, I read somewhere that Yaris with cold weather package has it. So I assume Finland is cold place enough.

[CTScott]

Oh my god. Looks like impossible thing to remove. I just looked under the steering wheel and it is hard to even see this far.

I asked local Toyota Service about DRL module and they weren't even heard about it. That made me think is these models even DRL (here in Finland). Thought, I read somewhere that Yaris with cold weather package has it. So I assume Finland is cold place enough.

You would have to remove the top of the dash to get at it.

[Falconia]

You would have to remove the top of the dash to get at it.


Are you sure that my car have DRL. Headlights turn on when starting the engine. Is that the sign of DRL and that can't be done otherwise?

I'm just thinking why Toyota service have never heard about DRL in here.

[CTScott]

Are you sure that my car have DRL. Headlights turn on when starting the engine. Is that the sign of DRL and that can't be done otherwise?

I'm just thinking why Toyota service have never heard about DRL in here.

The headlights turning on when the engine is running is the definition of daytime running lights, so I am almost positive that your car has DRL. There are other ways to achieve the same effect, but not from the factory. You may be able to get at the DRL module (or at least see if you have it) by removing the speedometer trim and speedometer. That may give you enough space and the correct angle to see or feel the module.

[Falconia]

The headlights turning on when the engine is running is the definition of daytime running lights, so I am almost positive that your car has DRL. There are other ways to achieve the same effect, but not from the factory. You may be able to get at the DRL module (or at least see if you have it) by removing the speedometer trim and speedometer. That may give you enough space and the correct angle to see or feel the module.


How do I remove speedometer cover?

If I can't remove the DRL module I should buy relay harness, with the relay HID should work even with the DRL, right?

..Am I totally wrong

[Falconia]

ups

[CTScott]

Here's how to remove the cover:

31723

[Falconia]

Here's how to remove the cover:

31723

Thanks! I will try if I find the module by removing that cap.

Anyway, I get the hid-kit working with this kind of relay harness? Right?

I thought that this kind of relay kits are made for H1/H7 kits on so on that they get power directly from battery. Is that kind of relay kit really needed to pass the DRL? I don't get how that differs from original H4 kit because there power always come directly from battery..?

http://www.xenonkauppa.fi/WebRoot/Kaupat/Shops/Xenon/45DD/D893/E5D6/16F6/5E3B/C0A8/071C/0F40/relay_12.jpg

[CTScott]

In DRL mode, the headlight bulbs are driven at a lower voltage by pulsing the power to them. That is what makes the DRLs flicker. The relay kit gets past that issue by feeding the HID ballasts full battery voltage instead of the output of the DRL module.

[Falconia]

In DRL mode, the headlight bulbs are driven at a lower voltage by pulsing the power to them. That is what makes the DRLs flicker. The relay kit gets past that issue by feeding the HID ballasts full battery voltage instead of the output of the DRL module.

Yeah, I knew that but in H4 kit the power comes directly from battery without any add-on relay kits?! So what is the point to relay H4 kits "again"? In h4 bixenon kits, there is control relay which gets control from cars h4 socket and the power directly from battery. I really don't know how DRL can mess this up?

And all Yaris has the H4 socket (and usually people get Bixenonkit), so there should not be any problem with DRL because power comes directly from battery.

[CTScott]

The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.

[Falconia]

The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.

So the answer is YES, I do have to order relay kit if I can't remove the DRL module.

Does that relay kit look right and working which I posted few messages before?

[CTScott]

Yes, you definitely need a relay. I am not familiar enough with the wiring for that generation of Yaris to be able to tell if the relay kit in your picture will work.

[Falconia]

Yes, you definitely need a relay. I am not familiar enough with the wiring for that generation of Yaris to be able to tell if the relay kit in your picture will work.


http://www.hidxtra.com/ebay/bixenonSetup.jpg


I was just confused because Bixenon kits come with relay which controls the bulb for low/high beam but the kit need the additional relay kit for fooling the Daytime running light.. The relay harness gets power directly from battery but normal bixenon system do the same. Basically there is no difference by using original h4-bixenon system or relay harness. Both get the switch from car's original h4 socket. So what is the difference?

Maybe I am stupid but I don't get it... anybody help

[Falconia]

The headlight switch switches the ground side. The bulbs have power going to them and then the switch makes or breaks ground to the other side. The DRL relay pulses that ground making it look like the bulbs are being run at 1/2 voltage. The relay kit should make it where the other side of the feed is ground or no connection, not the pulsed ground.




I was just confused because Bixenon kits come with relay which controls the bulb for low/high beam but the kit need the additional relay kit for fooling the Daytime running light.. The relay harness gets power directly from battery but normal bixenon system do the same. Basically there is no difference by using original h4-bixenon system or relay harness. Both get the switch from car's original h4 socket. So what is the difference?

Maybe I am stupid but I don't get it... anybody help

CTScott said that DRl pulses the ground side. Yes but the control still (even with the relay) comes from car's own wires which is connected to DRL, that is why I don't get it how the relay changes the problem. Both get the control from cars own wires and so they are both connected to the DRL

[Falconia]

On your car it is just below the top of the dash, to the left of the speedometer.

31699

Here's how to remove the cover:

31723


This seems to be my monolog but, I get the fron dash off with CTScott instructions! That was easier than I expected and the DRL was right under the dash. Thanks!

I found the DRL module with number: 82810-52020
whic differs from DIY instructions (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=894). In this DIY number was 82810-52040.

I think that module I found is DRL because google search:
82810 RELAY ASSY, RUNNING LIGHT
82810‑52020 NCP1*, NLP10, SCP10..JPP..LHD..(LUNA, SOL, TRSTD, TS) 1

http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2004_TOYOTA_YARIS_NCP13L-AGMVKW_8401.8.html?hl=85916D

So, yei! Problem solved (hope so..)

[CTScott]

That's correct. Your generation of Yaris had a different part number than the newer generation.

If simply disconnecting the module doesn't do the trick, then snap a picture of the connector. If the EWD that I have matches the wiring for your area, then I believe that you will need to disconnect the yellow wire (between the two greens) and leave the module in place.

[Falconia]

That's correct. Your generation of Yaris had a different part number than the newer generation.

If simply disconnecting the module doesn't do the trick, then snap a picture of the connector. If the EWD that I have matches the wiring for your area, then I believe that you will need to disconnect the yellow wire (between the two greens) and leave the module in place.

Are you kidding me. I thought I solved the problem and I could start assemblying the kit when it arrives but you said that maybe disconnecting the module doesn't help?! Connector is blue colored, if it helps anything... What does it help if I disconnect just yellow wire but leave the module in place?

What EWD do you have?

[CTScott]

Are you kidding me. I thought I solved the problem and I could start assemblying the kit when it arrives but you said that maybe disconnecting the module doesn't help?! Connector is blue colored, if it helps anything... What does it help if I disconnect just yellow wire but leave the module in place?

What EWD do you have?

I have the US 2001 EWDs. From what I have found with the 2nd generation Yaris, there are differences in the US and European cars. So, I am not completely sure that your 2001 matches the EWDs that I have. With the 2nd generation Yaris, the European DRL module is wired much different from ours, where you can't just disconnect it to bypass it.

[Falconia]

I have the US 2001 EWDs. From what I have found with the 2nd generation Yaris, there are differences in the US and European cars. So, I am not completely sure that your 2001 matches the EWDs that I have. With the 2nd generation Yaris, the European DRL module is wired much different from ours, where you can't just disconnect it to bypass it.


Does the EWD which you have "say" that I have to disconnect just a yellow wire. Or does it say that in US 2001 Yaris DRL have to be completely disconnect.

i had the same problem when trying to disable drl's. i took out the module and was very happy for about a min.... with the module removed the DRL's, fogs and highbeams no longer worked...... u need to put that module back in but to disable the DRLs u need to cut the big blue wire (i opened up the module and cut the connectors right off the chip ) and everything works perfectly...... except the DRL's. if u are completly lost i'll try to get picks up by week end.

jsut a side note.... when i had the problem i didn't have any HID's installed so if the problem is dirrectly related to them then i dont think the module will be too much help..... give it a shot if u like

So... Yellow or blue?

[CTScott]

Does the EWD which you have "say" that I have to disconnect just a yellow wire. Or does it say that in US 2001 Yaris DRL have to be completely disconnect.


So... Yellow or blue?

With how the module is integrated, I would say that for the 2001 US one, removing the module would make the lights not come on at all, so based on that disconnecting the yellow looks like the required method.


For the second question of Yellow or Blue, he is talking about a 2nd Gen Yaris DRL, which is wired completely different than the first gen DRL module.

[Falconia]

With how the module is integrated, I would say that for the 2001 US one, removing the module would make the lights not come on at all, so based on that disconnecting the yellow looks like the required method.


For the second question of Yellow or Blue, he is talking about a 2nd Gen Yaris DRL, which is wired completely different than the first gen DRL module.

I just noticed that if light switch is turned "off" high beams doesn't work. When I turn lights "on" highbeams work too. Is that some kind of glue how DRL work in my car...?

UPDATE! I finally got DRL removed and like CScott said any lights did no light up. Including headlights, taillights or panel lights.
CTScott you said that I have to cut yellow wire from DRL socket. Could you explain what that wire is and what it does. If I cut that wire, tail lights, panel lights and so on working when turning lights on from circuit braker (don't know what the controller next to the stering wheel is in english)?

[CTScott]

I just noticed that if light switch is turned "off" high beams doesn't work. When I turn lights "on" highbeams work too. Is that some kind of glue how DRL work in my car...?

UPDATE! I finally got DRL removed and like CScott said any lights did no light up. Including headlights, taillights or panel lights.
CTScott you said that I have to cut yellow wire from DRL socket. Could you explain what that wire is and what it does. If I cut that wire, tail lights, panel lights and so on working when turning lights on from circuit braker (don't know what the controller next to the stering wheel is in english)?

Do you see a Yellow wire between two green wires? If so, that yellow is the feed to the DRL module from the alternator. It is a signal that tells the DRL module that the engine is running. When the engine is off, you can still manually turn the headlights on, but the DRLs won't come on. So, disconnecting that signal should fool the DRL module into thinking that it should not turn the DRLs on.

[Falconia]

Do you see a Yellow wire between two green wires? If so, that yellow is the feed to the DRL module from the alternator. It is a signal that tells the DRL module that the engine is running. When the engine is off, you can still manually turn the headlights on, but the DRLs won't come on. So, disconnecting that signal should fool the DRL module into thinking that it should not turn the DRLs on.


Yes, there is yellow between two greens. I was surprised because all lights stopped working when I unplugged the DRL. If I cut that wire tail lights as well as headlights still working when I manually turn on the lights? Right?

[CTScott]

Yes, there is yellow between two greens. I was surprised because all lights stopped working when I unplugged the DRL. If I cut that wire tail lights as well as headlights still working when I manually turn on the lights? Right?

I believe so. To be safe, either pop the pin out of the connector, or cut the wire with enough left on the connector side to be able to reconnect if that doesn't work.

[Falconia]

Do you see a Yellow wire between two green wires? If so, that yellow is the feed to the DRL module from the alternator. It is a signal that tells the DRL module that the engine is running. When the engine is off, you can still manually turn the headlights on, but the DRLs won't come on. So, disconnecting that signal should fool the DRL module into thinking that it should not turn the DRLs on.

hmm... I just noticed that headlights light up even engine is off. Does this still work by cutting yellow wire?

[pawsplus]

I have a 2010 liftback and the manual mentioned DRL. But when I turn on the car the headlights do NOT go on. ??? Should I complain?

[CTScott]

hmm... I just noticed that headlights light up even engine is off. Does this still work by cutting yellow wire?

Yes. That should still work the same.

[Falconia]

Hi again,

I have now the second Bi-xenon bulbs in my Yaris. These new bulbs has worse flickering problem compares to older ones. Passenger side bulb is flickering especially when starting engine, pretty bad I think. My hid is connected directly to the battery. I have heard about relay harness, but is that going to change anything because my hid is already connected directly to the battery.

What about capacitor decoder which is used to flickering also, that stables the current, I think.

How I resolve flickering problem in that situation? Relay, Capacitor?!

...and I have hi/lo kit where relay harness came with the kit

[CTScott]

Hi again,

I have now the second Bi-xenon bulbs in my Yaris. These new bulbs has worse flickering problem compares to older ones. Passenger side bulb is flickering especially when starting engine, pretty bad I think. My hid is connected directly to the battery. I have heard about relay harness, but is that going to change anything because my hid is already connected directly to the battery.

What about capacitor decoder which is used to flickering also, that stables the current, I think.

How I resolve flickering problem in that situation? Relay, Capacitor?!

...and I have hi/lo kit where relay harness came with the kit


The flickering is because of the ground being pulsed, so the direct connect to the battery has no effect. A large capacitor should take care of the issue. Use two 4700uF (25V or greater) capacitors. Connect the capacitor across the input power to the ballast (making sure that you match the polarity).