What Oil weight do you run?

[Yarisaur]

What is the factory recommended oil weight for an 07 yaris... and what type do you all run?

[Tamago]

1. what does it say in your manual?

2. i run what it says in the manual.

[Nexus1155]

WE HAVE NO ENGINES TED....what do you think is good, 30 weight.... 40 weight?!

[hatchbackkid82]

:laugh: Kiss my shoes

WE HAVE NO ENGINES TED....what do you think is good, 30 weight.... 40 weight?!

[Tamago]

i never narc'd on nobody!

[hatchbackkid82]

You almost had me? You never had me - you never had your car... Granny shiftin' not double clutchin' like you should. You're lucky that hundred shot of NOS didn't blow the welds on the intake! You almost had me?

Now, me and the mad scientist got to rip apart the block... and replace the piston rings you fried.

Ask any racer. Any real racer. It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. Winning's winning.


In hindsight this movie was so lame the acting was horrible and the cars were super rice

[talnlnky]

You almost had me? You never had me - you never had your car... Granny shiftin' not double clutchin' like you should. You're lucky that hundred shot of NOS didn't blow the welds on the intake! You almost had me?

Now, me and the mad scientist got to rip apart the block... and replace the piston rings you fried.

Ask any racer. Any real racer. It don't matter if you win by an inch or a mile. Winning's winning.


In hindsight this movie was so lame the acting was horrible and the cars were super rice


did you ever see the email that circulated that was something like "fast food or furious"... just a burger/fastfood themed parody of the movie. I remember one of the quotes was something like...

Last night, somebody came into happymeal, upsetting the fries, and you no what? It was RONALD!

think of when the Asian guy had his place raided by the feds.

[R2D2]

Recommended weight is 5W-30.

A TSB was issued recommending ILSAC GF-4 and ok-ing the use of 5W-20.

I have used 20 wt exclusively. I currently am running (and intend to stick with) Renewable Lubricants BIOSYN 0W-20.

[GeneralDon7]

I switched to 5w-20 after 10,000 miles. Recommended should be 5w-30 like above post said. Definatly noticed an engine response and fuel economy benefit when switched.

[jekqmb]

10w40 shell rotella!

[talnlnky]

ran 5w30 for the first 41k, now i'm doing 5w20 for at least the next 9k. Synthetic of course.

[TheSilkySmooth]

10w40 shell rotella! No such thing. RT-5 or RT-6.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Recommended weight is 5W-30.

A TSB was issued recommending ILSAC GF-4 and ok-ing the use of 5W-20.

I have used 20 wt exclusively. I currently am running (and intend to stick with) Renewable Lubricants BIOSYN 0W-20. It is not "back spec'd". All yaris are spec for 5w-30 or heavier in severe service. Warning on TSB says to run what is on the oil fill cap and thats 5w-30.

[sbergman27]

A TSB was issued recommending ILSAC GF-4 and ok-ing the use of 5W-20.
Actually... no. That TSB has been widely misinterpreted in this forum. Read it carefully, paying close attention to the *title* of the TSB, and particularly to the text in the *second red box*.

The TSB was OK'ing GF-4 rather than GF-3, and further stating that certain future engines would be OK with 5w20 and/or 0w20. So far as I know, no current Yaris engines are really supposed to be using Xw20 oils.

-Steve

[Tamago]

gotta love oil threads..

[sbergman27]

gotta love oil threads..
If nothing else, they are entertaining. You get to hear which brands make people's engines "run smoother". As if certain brands got lumpy over time. I've had the best luck with Aunt Jemima 20w50. :-P

-Steve

[TheSilkySmooth]

I've had the best luck with Aunt Jemima 20w50. :-P

-Steve Notice that Aunt Jemima has a new "current" hairdo - no mo, "Yes, Miss Sally", she's movin on up!

[R2D2]

Actually... no. That TSB has been widely misinterpreted in this forum. Read it carefully, paying close attention to the *title* of the TSB, and particularly to the text in the *second red box*.

The TSB was OK'ing GF-4 rather than GF-3, and further stating that certain future engines would be OK with 5w20 and/or 0w20. So far as I know, no current Yaris engines are really supposed to be using Xw20 oils.

-Steve

This was posted in the 5W-20 TSB thread.

Hey all,

I don't post here regularly, but I wanted to share an email communication I had with a Toyota Customer Service representative regarding the EG018-06 bulletin. Below are both the email I sent and the email I received back. Looks like it is A-OK to use 5W-20 in the Yaris.


Subject
Toyota Service Bulletin EG018-06

Customer (Joshua Smith) 10/16/2009 08:42 PM

Greetings,

I have a question regarding the correct oil type to use in a 2007 Yaris Hatchback. Unless I'm mistaken, my car has a 1NZ-FE engine, which is listed in the Toyota Service Bulletin EG018-06 as an engine that can use 5W-20 oil. My oil cap and manual both say 5W-30 is recommended, but in the service bulletin, Toyota says that 5W-20 may be used -- and a direct quote from the service bulletin states the following: "This oil is superior in terms of fuel economy, engine protection, and cold starting performance." Please let me know if 5W-20 is safe to use, and if it is not, I'd like to know why. I'd prefer to use 5W-20 for the better fuel economy and cold weather starting performance, as my car sometimes hesitates to turn on when it's very cold out.

There are a lot of people who have discussed/debated the EG018-06 issue on online message boards and none of us can come up with a solid answer. I'd like to get an official response from Toyota and put this to rest. Please also include a list of which specific Yaris models/years (broken down by VIN# range or some similar method) this covers so I can give some people a definitive answer for their Yarises. Thanks very much in advance for your time and effort.

Regards,
Joshua Smith



Response (RTou) 10/22/2009 08:00 AM

Dear Mr. Smith,

Thank you for contacting Toyota Motor Sales.

We appreciate the opportunity to respond to your inquiry.

Toyota recommends the use of ILSAC multigrade, 5W-30 Toyota Genuine Motor Oil or equivalent for the 2007 Yaris. Toyota also recommends, due to its superiority in terms of fuel efficiency, engine protection, and cold starting performance, the use ILSAC GF-4 SAE 5W-20 engine oil for the 2007 Yaris (no specified VIN range).

Thank you again for contacting Toyota.

If we can answer any further questions, please feel free to http://www.toyota.com/help/contactus.html.

Renee Toussaint
Toyota Customer Experience



Note the words used are recommended, not required.

The NZ series is listed in the column for engines that can use 5W-20.

For those folks who are scared of 20wt oils, some of the conventional 5W-30's people use shear down to 20wts in short order anyway, it just goes unnoticed because most people don't have their used oil analyzed. Not a big deal under most circumstances.

Also for clarity I realize that 0W-20 is not recommended. It stands to reason however that there is in reality no difference between 5W-20 and 0W-20 to the engine except for improved cold performance as long as the 0W-20 is a quality, shear stable formulation.

SilkySmooth is not wrong for running a 10W-30 HDEO if he is really running his car hard for long periods of time and elevating the oil temp. I don't think the particular 0W-20 I choose to use in my Yaris is a bad decision either given the fact most of my trips are under 10 mi in cold weather, and the oil hardly has time to reach normal operating temperature. Plus I drive like an old lady.

People should use what they are most comfortable using in there own cars. It is your car after all. In reality this is all really splitting hairs.

R2

[Hershey]

5w-30 for both the '08 sedan and 2010 3 door . PENNZOIL Platinum in the 3 door and SHELL Full Synthetic in the '08 sedan . May try the PENNZOIL Platinum ULTRA for next oil change in 1 of the 2 , depending on the cost per quart .

[mimelio]

Mobil 1 5W-30:headbang:

[TheSilkySmooth]

You guy and gals are aware that most oils sold in the USA is not synthetic even though it says "full synthetic' on the bottle. The National Ad Board branch of the BBB alowed Castrol to market Syntec as synthetic even though it is just highly refined petroleum oil. Valvoline synpower is not synthetic, M1 5w-30 is not synthetic. You have to import a Euro oil to get a real syn these days. Does it matter? Yes because they are charging you a high price for something that doesnt cost the oil co's much premium to blend over a "plain jane" conventional. You are not getting what you paid for. It's a freaking joke, and its on you.

[sbergman27]

You guy and gals are aware that most oils sold in the USA is not synthetic even though it says "full synthetic' on the bottle.
I'm more interested in the performance of the oil in the bottle for my particular application than I am in designations of synthetic vs nonsynthetic.

What are the oil's properties in my engine in my use case? If some highly refined natural source component adds properties that would be more difficult or expensive to attain from scratch, then I'm fine with that.

I'm more concerned with the motives for the target specs of an oil than I am in the sources of the components or that oil.

Arguably, management has been involved in the decision to recommend GF-4 oils. I'd like to see more illumination thrown upon the reasons for the disagreements among American, German, and Japanese manufactueres regarding oil specs. I would particularly be interested in a panel discussion between *engineers* of the respective companies. Excluding anyone *but* engineers.

-Steve

[Hershey]

from the U.O.A.s I've seen at BOBISTHEOILGUY for the PENNZOIL Platinum and SHELL Full Synthetic 5w-30 is enough for me to use them . Plus have been paying little over $3 ( includes tax ) a quart for these oils the past 3 years . So , don't feel all that screwed . :biggrin:

[Hershey]

went to WAL-MART to check on prices for the Pennzoil PLATINUM Ultra earlier to find 5 quart jug for $28.50 and the quart for $6.87 . Not to bad . Hopefully SOPUS will have some rebates soon to knock cost down . Then will give the 5w-30 ULTRA a try . Maybe the 5w-20 instead . What's your take on the 5w-20 ULTRA for the YARIS ?

[smell my finger]

What's oil? jk 5w-20 full synthetic.

[sbergman27]

What's your take on the 5w-20 ULTRA for the YARIS ?
Well, my take is that I wouldn't let a sub 2.8 HTHS oil near any of my cars. There are two arguments for low viscosity oils:

1. It saves maybe 1% on fuel

2. It gets to critical engine parts quicker after start.

You can evaluate the benefits of saving 1% on fuel for yourself. And if you are using a synthetic oil with any ester component at all, then the polar ester molecules will form a weak chemical bond with the metal of the engine parts, and you won't need to worry about oil getting there faster after start. It's already there. Always.

The TSB that Toyota released regarding their recommendation of GF-4 oils, which happened (confusingly) to use 5w20 as an example, has been widely misinterpreted by folks who don't *carefully read the contents of the second red box*.

The final part of the TSB expresses an intention, by Toyota, to recommend thinner oils for post-2006 NZ series engines. And yet... they seem actively to have done an about face upon that. 5w30 is still recommended for the 2010 Yaris' NZ engine. To me, this speaks more loudly than if they had simply remained silent upon the matter. What made them actively decide *not* to actually recommend 5w20 on the 2007, 2008, 2009, and 2010 Yaris models, I wonder?

I probably shouldn't go so far as to make an actual recommendation here... but... oh, what the hell... *don't use 20wt oil in your Yaris*.

-Steve

[Hershey]

thanks , will stick with the 5w-30 . Bummer can only get Euro Ultra in a drum . Need to do oil changes soon and use the stash of SHELL full synthetic up and go with the American ULTRA 5w-30 in the fall . SOPUS rules :biggrin: .

[1stToyota]

You guy and gals are aware that most oils sold in the USA is not synthetic even though it says "full synthetic' on the bottle. The National Ad Board branch of the BBB alowed Castrol to market Syntec as synthetic even though it is just highly refined petroleum oil. Valvoline synpower is not synthetic, M1 5w-30 is not synthetic. You have to import a Euro oil to get a real syn these days. Does it matter? Yes because they are charging you a high price for something that doesnt cost the oil co's much premium to blend over a "plain jane" conventional. You are not getting what you paid for. It's a freaking joke, and its on you.

What about Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30? I just ordered me a case of it, along with a case of their SD 5W30 for a friend.

The Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30 mentioned a synthetic base stock...I believe both the SYN and the HD 5W30s are ACEA A5/B5 rated, unless I read that wrong. I've been well pleased w/ the PP, the M1 0W30 seems good - nice & quiet like the PP at least - but I thought it was time for a change & wanted to be different.

Almost decided to go with Amalie oil because I know it's "Better than it has to be" ...but I finally decided upon the Wolf's Head because it's "The finest of the fine since 1879" :drool:

[R2D2]

1st,

Have you done any UOAs on the Platinum or M1 yet?

[1stToyota]

1st,

Have you done any UOAs on the Platinum or M1 yet?

No, not yet. I was going to do the M1 first, then run a test on the PP, but since I'm going to start using Wolf's Head I think I'll still do the UOA on the M1 to see how it compares to the Wolf's Head when I eventually get around to doing a UOA on it. The Wolf's Head seemed to be priced right at around $4.60 shipped.

[seth_man]

ive been running M1 0-40 for the last 55K miles. :iono:

[TheSilkySmooth]

What about Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30? I just ordered me a case of it, along with a case of their SD 5W30 for a friend.

The Wolf's Head 100% SYN 5W30 mentioned a synthetic base stock...I believe both the SYN and the HD 5W30s are ACEA A5/B5 rated, unless I read that wrong. I've been well pleased w/ the PP, the M1 0W30 seems good - nice & quiet like the PP at least - but I thought it was time for a change & wanted to be different.

Almost decided to go with Amalie oil because I know it's "Better than it has to be" ...but I finally decided upon the Wolf's Head because it's "The finest of the fine since 1879" :drool:

WH SynPack base stock is CAS# 64742-54-7,mildly hydrotreated heavy paraffinic distilate petroleum oil.

some CAS# involving motor oil (Thanks MGB-V8!)
Mineral Paraffininc Base Oil - 64742-54-7; VI of +94 to 120, any group.

Mineral Naphthenic Base Oil - 64741-96-4; VI of -15, any group.

Mineral Aromatic Base Oil - 64742-03-7; VI of -185, any group.

Hydrotreated paraffininc, heavy - 64742-52-5
Hydrotreated paraffinic, light - 64742-53-6

PAO's: 68649-12-7, 68037-01-4, 163149-29-9, 151006-63-2, 151006-62-1, 151006-60-9. VII's of +155 or greater.

Diester - 28472-97-1; VII's average +170.

VII Copolymers - 127883-08-3


Additives:
ZDDP Type Adds: 68649-42-3, XXXXX-46-6.

Calcium Sulfonates: 61789-86-4

Moly Dithiophosphate - 68958-92-7 or 68958-92-9

Moly Disulfide Powders - 1317-33-5


M1 Supersyn Antiwear Technology
This is a Polyol TME

Polyol esters have lower coefficients of friction than either diesters or PAO's.

By adding a polyol ester at least 5-10% to a PAO or mineral oil reduces base oil friction remarkably. So esters are natural Friction Modifiers.

[TheSilkySmooth]

ive been running M1 0-40 for the last 55K miles. :iono: That's Mobil 1 best gasoline passenger car oil - Does it seem thick? hOWS THE FULL THROTTLE POWER 4-6k rpm? WHAT FILTER DO YOU RUN WITH IT? WHY IS MY CAPS LOCK STuck - sorry :redface:

[TheSilkySmooth]

Some info about RTS 5w-40 WAX Synthetic:

Shell Synthetic is made with Shell's XHVI base oil, which unlike other Group IIIs does not begin as distilled crude oil, hence of all Group III base oils, XHVI is truly the only one that can legitimately be called "synthetic." XHVI is a wax isomerate, meaning that it is made from the slack wax removed from distilled crude in normal solvent dewaxing. This slack wax is catalytically transformed (isomerized) and hydrofinished into a chemically pure base oil which rivals PAO in virtually every category. There are other "synthetic" oils out there based on Group III, but Shell's is unique in that it uses XHVI base oil. Chevron and Petro-Canada produce Group III base oils that come close to XHVI, but even though these oils are all hydroprocessed and utilize the same type of isomerization technology employed in the making of XHVI, they are not the same thing. Only XHVI is made from pure petroleum slack wax and its CAS number is 92026-09-4. The CAS number for the more typical all-hydroprocessed Group III base oils is 64742-54-7. If you want to know what your "synthetic" oil is made from, take a look at the MSDS and look for these numbers. ( One CAS number for PAO is 68037-01-4).

In brief, don't be so quick to dismiss Shell Synthetic as just another "synthetic pretender." It's made with the same base oil as Shell's Helix Ultra, and everytime you see Ferrari win a Formula 1 race, that's the oil in the engine.

[seth_man]

That's Mobil 1 best gasoline passenger car oil - Does it seem thick? hOWS THE FULL THROTTLE POWER 4-6k rpm? WHAT FILTER DO YOU RUN WITH IT? WHY IS MY CAPS LOCK STuck - sorry :redface:


doesnt seem thick to me, ive been using M1 filters, no noticeable change in fuel economy, way less chain and valve noise, no change in performance that i saw. i still beat the crap out of it on weekends at the track and drive it to work daily 32 miles each way on the highway. after sending a few samples to blackstone labs and them only finding oil in my oil i think its doing the job.

[Hershey]

so I take it that SHELL FUll Synthetic 5w-30 and their other weights are a good thing ? If so , thanks for the info . How about the regular PLATINUM , the new ULTRA , and the newbie EURO ? Thanks

[Hershey]

looked up MSDS for UNITED STATES for SHELL Full Synthetic 5w-30 . States : Distilliates ( petroleum ) , hydrotreated light paraffinic : 64742-55-8 , if looking correctly . Printed : 7/14/2008 .

[ddongbap]

I use straight eleven billionty.

[1stToyota]

WH SynPack base stock is CAS# 64742-54-7,mildly hydrotreated heavy paraffinic distilate petroleum oil.

some CAS# involving motor oil (Thanks MGB-V8!)
Mineral Paraffininc Base Oil - 64742-54-7; VI of +94 to 120, any group.

Mineral Naphthenic Base Oil - 64741-96-4; VI of -15, any group.

Mineral Aromatic Base Oil - 64742-03-7; VI of -185, any group.

Hydrotreated paraffininc, heavy - 64742-52-5
Hydrotreated paraffinic, light - 64742-53-6

PAO's: 68649-12-7, 68037-01-4, 163149-29-9, 151006-63-2, 151006-62-1, 151006-60-9. VII's of +155 or greater.

Diester - 28472-97-1; VII's average +170.

VII Copolymers - 127883-08-3


Additives:
ZDDP Type Adds: 68649-42-3, XXXXX-46-6.

Calcium Sulfonates: 61789-86-4

Moly Dithiophosphate - 68958-92-7 or 68958-92-9

Moly Disulfide Powders - 1317-33-5


M1 Supersyn Antiwear Technology
This is a Polyol TME

Polyol esters have lower coefficients of friction than either diesters or PAO's.

By adding a polyol ester at least 5-10% to a PAO or mineral oil reduces base oil friction remarkably. So esters are natural Friction Modifiers.

Thanks.
Uhhh, yeah...huh? :wink:
Can't tell if that means it's good oil or not. :redface:

[R2D2]

doesnt seem thick to me, ive been using M1 filters, no noticeable change in fuel economy, way less chain and valve noise, no change in performance that i saw. i still beat the crap out of it on weekends at the track and drive it to work daily 32 miles each way on the highway. after sending a few samples to blackstone labs and them only finding oil in my oil i think its doing the job.

Would you mind posting your analysis data? I would be very interested in seeing it if your willing!

TIA,

R2

[TheSilkySmooth]

Would you mind posting your analysis data? I would be very interested in seeing it if your willing!

Me Three!

[TheSilkySmooth]

Thanks.
Uhhh, yeah...huh? :wink:
Can't tell if that means it's good oil or not. :redface: Its got similar hydrotreated dino base stock to Platinum or Syntec or Synpower - but it aint 70%/ PAO 15% POE /10% AN that I would prefer to see in a real syn ( from ANYONE). For stout oil hard to beat RL or M1R4T. Doest really matter unless you are out to beat the tar out of the po lil enJINE on a daily basis. Hey I got snowblower oil in mine - hows that for oil boredom :smile:

[seth_man]

Would you mind posting your analysis data? I would be very interested in seeing it if your willing!

TIA,

R2

ill see if i can dig it out, might still be in the toolbox somewhere. ill check it out monday.

[R2D2]

ill see if i can dig it out, might still be in the toolbox somewhere. ill check it out monday.

Thanks!

[1stToyota]

Its got similar hydrotreated dino base stock to Platinum or Syntec or Synpower - but it aint 70%/ PAO 15% POE /10% AN that I would prefer to see in a real syn ( from ANYONE). For stout oil hard to beat RL or M1R4T. Doest really matter unless you are out to beat the tar out of the po lil enJINE on a daily basis. Hey I got snowblower oil in mine - hows that for oil boredom :smile:

Thanks. I'm curious to see how the Wolf's Head 5w30 does against the M1 0w30 Goliath when I get the UOAs done on both.

Next time you get bored you could give the Brad Penn "green" Racing Oil a try. :wink: Brad Penn appears to offer a pretty good line-up of oils.

[Hershey]

can't wait to see the U.O.A.s :drool: . Thanks and good luck with the numbers .

[1stToyota]

can't wait to see the U.O.A.s :drool: . Thanks and good luck with the numbers .

Pretty for sure there won't be a UOA on the M1 0W30 that I'm running now because the Yaris might already be sold; the guy is still thinking about it. If it sells I'll probably get a '08 xD that I've got my eye on...probably won't mess with sending in oil samples for the xD.

[Hershey]

:frown: .

[Falconeer]

I use 20W50 semi synthetic.
What do I get by switching to 5Wanything?

This is a real hot country with summer temps at 45 Deg. C. Plus starting May on.

[1stToyota]

:frown: .

The guy backed out on buying the Yaris, and after driving the xD for a couple of weeks I've decided to not sell the Yaris and get rid of the xD, so guess I'm back to the plan of doing UOA testing for both the M1 and Wolf's Head.

[Hershey]

The guy backed out on buying the Yaris, and after driving the xD for a couple of weeks I've decided to not sell the Yaris and get rid of the xD, so guess I'm back to the plan of doing UOA testing for both the M1 and Wolf's Head. :clap: . Sorry . Maybe it's a sign :bow: .