Removing drum from rear axle

[bankrobber]

What is the best way? I wanted to check my rear brakes but the drum is on pretty tight. I tried hitting it a few times but it didnt come off. Not much space between the dust cover and drum to hit. I never did drum brakes before. On my old truck I always replaced the disc brakes and paid to have rear drum done by mechanic. Only way I know is to hit it with a hammer. Just wanted to check before I did that. I have 82,000 highway miles. When I hit it a bunch of brake dust came out!!!!

[ozmdd]

Make sure your brake isn't set. I know that sounds dickish, but you'd be surprised .

If a rubber mallet doesn't do it, you can thread some bolts into the holes on the face of the drum and press it off. Also, I've heard that cheap steering wheel pullers are a good fit.

If you're using a hammer, tap it, don't smack it hard and risk bending something.

[TLyttle]

Never hit a drum. I was taught that a long time ago; you just bend or crack something. I take a punch, line it up between the studs, and smack it a good one, repeat between the other studs. Nearly every time, the drum will just pop off. If that doesn't do it, apply can be GENTLY applied, and the punch routine repeated.

[Reddog99]

Since your car has so many miles, you may run into one other problem. The shoes may have worn the drum enough so that there is now a ridge inside the drum that will prevent the drum from coming off directly. In this case, you will need to remove the rubber plug from the backing plate and use a slotted screwdriver to manually adjust the brake shoes back away from the drum before you try the next step.

Those drums fit pretty tight and get frozen with rust, so don't bother with the hammer. You would probably beat the daylights out of it, and it still won't come off (I've tried). Find the proper METRIC size bolts to use in the two threaded holes on the face of the drum near the axle. Clean the holes first, then screw in the bolts until they stop. Then turn each bolt alternately a half-turn at a time to press off the drum. If that fails (if you strip out the threads), then you'll need to use a puller.

Maybe someone here can advise on the proper size bolt. I just had my drums off last month, but didn't make note of the size bolt that I used.

[bankrobber]

I tried a screwdriver between backing plate but just it barely moved. If I keep doing that the plate will bend. I thought the rear brakes last longer than front?
My front disc is still 50% good. I may have to try the two bolts you mentioned. I dont have any grinding sound from brakes but I got a nail in my tire so after I took it off to put a plug in I decided to check the brakes. If I bend the lip to the backing plate can I just hit it back tight to the drum??

[bankrobber]

I wonder if Auto Zone has one in there free loan a tool program

[Reddog99]

I tried a screwdriver between backing plate but just it barely moved. If I keep doing that the plate will bend. I thought the rear brakes last longer than front?
My front disc is still 50% good. I may have to try the two bolts you mentioned. I dont have any grinding sound from brakes but I got a nail in my tire so after I took it off to put a plug in I decided to check the brakes. If I bend the lip to the backing plate can I just hit it back tight to the drum??The object is to adjust the brake shoes away from the drum by turning the star wheel adjuster. If you're bending the backing plate, then you are doing something wrong. After you adjust the shoes away from the drum, then you need to use the two bolt method. If your drums fit as tight as mine did, then they won't come off just by beating or hand pulling. Be wary of using a puller: it must have METRIC threads for the brake drum holes.

[127.0.0.1]

you are supposed to insert long metric bolts into the holes on the drum, and drive the bolts
in evenly. they will bottom out, and then act as a press, and push the drum off.

if the brakes are worn and the adjuster has them compensated too far, the pads may
make drum removal difficult, but it will be loose and you'll know to reach in the back and crank the
adjuster down so you can get the drum off

[markitect]

Heating up the drum works well too. You can do several hard stops then immediately take the wheel and drums off, or I've used a blow torch on a low heat setting, any propane torch should be fine too.

They key is you don't want a focused hot flame, you just want to slowly and evenly heat up the drum. Go little by little and don't forget to use welding gloves, or oven-mitts to pull it off.

And before people start complaining about heat damaging it, keep in mind how hot brakes get. And I take no responsibility if you touch something while it's still hot an burn yourself.

[ozmdd]

The metric bolts should pop it right off. I suggest the cheap puller simply because it has a selection of metric and standard threads in it. I think they do loan these.

If you search the thread for the DIY penguin garage spacers install, there is a mention of the correct metric thread size somewhere in there, IIRC.

[YarisSedan]

You dont need any sort of puller whatsoever. All you need to do is find 2 bolts that match the holes. Tighten them down with a rachet even amounts and the drum will pop off. Smacking it with a rubber mallet a few times usually losen things up but if that dosnt work then the 2 bolts is the way to go. You can also spray a bit of WD-40 on a hub as there is probally some accumilated rust when you try to remove it to help ease things up.

Try that before any thing else. If its comming off hard as your tightening the bolts. Every few turns smack it again with the hammer and turn the bolts a few more. This will help break loose the shoes if they are seized onto the drum.

Otherwise you will snap the pins and the shoes will come apart when you remove the drum. Unless you plan to do rear brakes then just order a hardware kit and go to down on the bolts until the drum pops off.

[Tamago]

M8X1.25

or as most people call them "10mm bolts"

~PenguinGarage has spoken~

;)

[YAR1S]

M8X1.0

or as most people call them "10mm bolts"

~PenguinGarage has spoken~

;)

you beat me to it :rolleyes:

[DerFlosser]

I used the steering wheel puller I purchased to remove the steering wheel. Worked like a charm...purchased it at NAPA for around $18. It comes with assorted bolts...as set of which worked perfectly for the drums (8mm).

[auxmike]

I had a box of hardware I took off a Saturn destined for the boneyard and found two bolts that fit perfectly.
It works like a charm!:thumbup:

[yaris-me]

WD40. Spray it around the lug bolts.

[Altitude]

you beat me to it :rolleyes:

+1 on the bolt solution.

[1stToyota]

The Yaris drum is different then, if it's M8x1.0
All I've ever seen so far is 8mm x 1.25

[DerFlosser]

The Yaris drum is different then, if it's M8x1.0
All I've ever seen so far is 8mm x 1.25


Yes, I believe that they are course thread NOT 1.0 pitch.

[Tamago]

Yes, I believe that they are course thread NOT 1.0 pitch.

sorry guise

[lazerspot]

Hey Guys ... thanks ever so much for the information re the removal of the rear brake drums with the metric bolts ... It worked like a charm. I was out there working up a sweat trying, and yes mildly pounding on the drum so to speak and it was seized tighter than Tobie's er ... anyway. One of the almost advantages of being a Canadian is that we are partially metric so the bolts were relatively easy to come by.
Now onto more serious stuff ... does it make any sense to put anti-seizing compound on affected areas ? I use it between the wheel and drum as in the great white north they use a lot of salt up here on the roads to do what the sun does in the south i.e keep the snow away.

anyway thanks again for reducing my blood pressure ... take care ...Vic

"Of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most"