Vapor Canister

[Crashmaster]

I have had my 2 door Yaris for about 28 months. It's just the standard plain jane model with the only two options being A/C and CD player. I have about 80,000 miles on it and have changed the oil between 5,000 and 6,000 miles since I bought it.

For about a month the engine light has been coming on. Doing the diagnostic, the codes come up indicating that the vapor canister is bad. I removed it and did some basic testing to see if any of the ports were clogged as per the maintence manual. Everything seems good but the codes keep coming up. Does anybody know of how I might be able to fix this on the cheep? A new one from Toyota costs about $775, and I just can't see spending a good percentage of what the car cost ($12,500) on a single part.

Thanks in advance

[41magmag41]

any chance you bought the extended warranty with the car? If so that might be covered under it. Check aftermarket parts dealers as it might be less than half the price there

[YarisSedan]

In california there is extended emissions warrenty to 80k miles. Not sure what it is in other states. That vapor canister should be covered to 80 if not 100k miles since its a emissions related component.

Its more than likely a VSV that may have failed. Sometimes they can be changed individually from the canister. Not sure the exact test procedure. If you use a ohm meter you should measure resistance across the terminals and check for resistance to the body of each VSV on the canister.

Also if you blow through one end of the vacuum line of the VSV air should not go freely through if you apply battery voltage you should hear the VSV click and then air should go through.

If you have the mechanical knowledge on how the remove the canister you should be able to perform these basic tests. If you find a solinoid that is bad pull the part number off it and call toyota to see if they sell that indiviual VSV.

They usually run between 35-75 much cheaper than 700

[127.0.0.1]

check the gas cap, [first likely suspect in evap issues]

[Crashmaster]

Thanks for the help. I replaced the gas cap and the light went out for three days, then returned.

I did pull the vapor canister and blew through all the ports and all was free. I also blew through the vacuum and it didn't go freely and I could hear the diaphragm engaging.

As far as the VSV, it's one piece. So, I'm out of luck there, unless I can find one in a junkyard. I guess I'll keep plugging away, maybe I can find a loose wire or something.

[yaris2010RS]

i personally think, from reading ure situation (and assuming the 3days it was off is the longest yet) that it has something to do with the gas cap system or area..... i had a similar situation on my moms camry, O2 sensor acting up (said the computer) toyota said it would be around 500 bucks to change

turned out after about 2 weeks with the light on and me messing around that a 1cm diameter rubber hose broke and came off something.... 20 mins later, $5.99 and trip to the pet store (fish tank part....) engine ligt never came on

[CTScott]

What DTCs are logged when it happens?

[Crashmaster]

Sorry for the long delay in my response, stressful work week.

There are 10 codes that have been triggered: 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419. All of these codes show up twice; the reason for 10 codes instead of five. Not sure why this is.

[CTScott]

Sorry for the long delay in my response, stressful work week.

There are 10 codes that have been triggered: 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419. All of these codes show up twice; the reason for 10 codes instead of five. Not sure why this is.


With those codes, it definitely isn't the gas cap.

When you had the canister off, did you try applying power to the pump and to the canister vent valve to see if both work or not?

[CTScott]

Better yet, check the ETCS fuse.

[YarisSedan]

When i get to work on monday ill check for TSBs for those codes and see if anything pops up. Seems like a lot of codes.

[CTScott]

When i get to work on monday ill check for TSBs for those codes and see if anything pops up. Seems like a lot of codes.

Good Call on there being a TSB:

TSB T-EG048-07 (M.I.L. "ON" DTC P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, & P2419)
Models: ’07 Yaris Liftback

Some 2007 model year Yaris Liftback vehicles may exhibit M.I.L. “ON” with DTCs P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419 stored. The fuel tank filler pipe cover holder has been improved to prevent water intrusion into the Key Off EVAP pump module.

1. Using TIS techstream, check for Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
If DTCs P043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, and P2419 are ALL present, refer to the
Technical Information System (TIS), 2007 model year Yaris Repair Manual,
Engine/Hybrid System – Engine Control – “1NZ–FE Engine Control System: SFI
System: P043E: Evaporative Emission System Reference Orifice Clog Up”.

2. Replace the charcoal canister, charcoal canister filter, fuel tank filler pipe cover, and the fuel tank filler pipe cover holder if water IS or WAS present in the EVAP system.

3. Using TIS techstream, clear all DTCs.

4. Perform the Automatic EVAP System Check and verify that NO pending DTCs set.

[RETRO]

We had a 05 Corolla it had the same codes..We replaced the canister codes went away..About 2 weeks later they came back..Replaced the canister again thinking may have been bad..Codes where gone two weeks later codes came back..End up being ECU.The canister was $300 the ECU was $900.

[Crashmaster]

CTScott's last post sure seems to sum it up. When I had the charcoal canister filter off, there was water in the pump module. I figured that it was just condensation and blew all of the water out. Replacing the charcoal canister, charcoal canister filter, fuel tank filler pipe cover, and the fuel tank filler pipe cover holder will cost well over $1000 bucks, approximately 8% of what I paid for the car 28 months ago. To me it just isn't worth the cost. Plus after the wife getting laid off, I can't bring on any more bills.

One last question, if I just leave it that way, are there any performance/fuel economy issues? If not, I'll just look at the idiot like and just get used to it being illuminated.

Thanks for everyone's help on this.

[CTScott]

CTScott's last post sure seems to sum it up. When I had the charcoal canister filter off, there was water in the pump module. I figured that it was just condensation and blew all of the water out. Replacing the charcoal canister, charcoal canister filter, fuel tank filler pipe cover, and the fuel tank filler pipe cover holder will cost well over $1000 bucks, approximately 8% of what I paid for the car 28 months ago. To me it just isn't worth the cost. Plus after the wife getting laid off, I can't bring on any more bills.

One last question, if I just leave it that way, are there any performance/fuel economy issues? If not, I'll just look at the idiot like and just get used to it being illuminated.

Thanks for everyone's help on this.

I don't believe it will affect anything, other than passing inspection (if your state does them) and constantly having the light on. You can try junkyards to find one. If you do so, only grab one from an 08 or newer, based on that TSB.

[Crashmaster]

I don't believe it will affect anything, other than passing inspection (if your state does them) and constantly having the light on. You can try junkyards to find one. If you do so, only grab one from an 08 or newer, based on that TSB.

I have heard the same thing, but wasn't sure. I can clear the codes right before inspection and it should be OK. Virginia doesn't have emissions, thank God. I'll keep cruising the junk yards. Thanks again.

[Crashmaster]

One last thing, my fuel economy doesn't appear to be effected by this either.

[CTScott]

One last thing, my fuel economy doesn't appear to be effected by this either.

I wouldn't think it would. This system is purely responsible for keeping the fumes from escaping into the air. The pump is just a diagnostic tool that the car uses to make sure that the system is airtight. Theoretically yours is still airtight, but the testing mechanism has failed.

Looking at the TSB, there is a replacement Fuel Tank Filler Pipe Cover that is supposed to seal better. You may want to also see if you can grab that from on 08, or if you can talk you dealer into giving it to you. If you want a copy of the TSB, it is posted in a stickied thread in the DIY section of the forum.


32014

[Crashmaster]

I wouldn't think it would. This system is purely responsible for keeping the fumes from escaping into the air. The pump is just a diagnostic tool that the car uses to make sure that the system is airtight. Theoretically yours is still airtight, but the testing mechanism has failed.

Looking at the TSB, there is a replacement Fuel Tank Filler Pipe Cover that is supposed to seal better. You may want to also see if you can grab that from on 08, or if you can talk you dealer into giving it to you. If you want a copy of the TSB, it is posted in a stickied thread in the DIY section of the forum.


32014

Awesome!! Thanks for all the help. I'll talk to the dealer to see what they will do. If no go, I'll just keep looking in the junk yards. I love going there just because.

[nickhjort]

I also just ran into this problem pretty recently. At first I thought it was my gas cap, but after refitting it ten times my CEL is still on. Anyway I found the TSB too and was wondering if I just change the Pipe holders that it mentions, will this make the CEL go away, or will I have to change all the part numbers in the TSB (ie. the 800 dollar Vapor canister). I sure hope not, seeing as the pipe holders are less than 20 bucks. Also someone mentioned the solenoid that's near the vapor canister sometimes sticks, and maybe I can just take that out and try to free it up?? Well we'll see and any input would be nice...seeing as I live in New York and they have damned inspections :(

[CTScott]

I also just ran into this problem pretty recently. At first I thought it was my gas cap, but after refitting it ten times my CEL is still on. Anyway I found the TSB too and was wondering if I just change the Pipe holders that it mentions, will this make the CEL go away, or will I have to change all the part numbers in the TSB (ie. the 800 dollar Vapor canister). I sure hope not, seeing as the pipe holders are less than 20 bucks. Also someone mentioned the solenoid that's near the vapor canister sometimes sticks, and maybe I can just take that out and try to free it up?? Well we'll see and any input would be nice...seeing as I live in New York and they have damned inspections :(

The collar parts prevent water from getting in, but if you are getting the codes, then there is already an issue, so just replacing the collar parts won't fix it. If you look at the "emission control" section of the service manual, it explains how to test each component of the vapor recovery system.

[020nn20]

I was reading up on some of these forums. i bought my wife a 2008 yaris brand new. Have not had any problems until i got the emissions notice. Literally after i got the notice here check engine light went on......of course. I have been reading all of these symptoms, ALL of which i have, all the codes, etc. BUT this car is a 2008!! which is supposed to be the "updated" version of the filler neck etc....Now what do I do??? Obviously they didnt fix much!!

[pat80]

Hello,

I've got a Yaris 2007. I had the check engines codes 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419.

I solved the problem:

1) Replaced the charcoal canister; got one from the scrap yard (135$). The dealer would ask 800$ for a brand new. :eek:

2) The check engine light (CEL) went off by itself, and never came back. :w00t:

The charcoal canisters are compatible with Yaris 2006-2011.

I did not apply any other repair procedure.

Good luck guys! :thumbup:

Pat

[Golddeenoh]

Hello,

I've got a Yaris 2007. I had the check engines codes 0043E, P043F, P2401, P2402, P2419.

I solved the problem:

1) Replaced the charcoal canister; got one from the scrap yard (135$). The dealer would ask 800$ for a brand new. :eek:

2) The check engine light (CEL) went off by itself, and never came back. :w00t:

The charcoal canisters are compatible with Yaris 2006-2011.

I did not apply any other repair procedure.

Good luck guys! :thumbup:

Pat

the irony is that you can save the canister by not over filling the tank every time you fill up. 98% of the time, that is why it goes bad, it gets flooded with liquid fuel instead of just getting vapors.

[peetisaini]

My 2007 yaris engine light was on.. Turns out I needed a new vapor canister. Dealer wanted $1200 installed.. I got mine from the wreckers for $100.. Gave it my mechanic and he installed it for $40.. He reset the codes and I drove the car for a day for the new part to register.. Went and passed the emmiisions.. Don't buy new.. Get from wreckers

[alanwagen]

I see this all the time, where at the gas pump, people are topping off their tank. From what I understand, topping off will kill your vapor canister. Stop at first click off. Even some gas stations have warnings about this.
But you still see click click click click. oh well.