SQcomps install

[talnlnky]

hey, here's the thread I told you I'd start...

keep in mind...
these are single 12's on this graph, 750rms

once you put these boxes in a car, you'll have cabin gain in the sub 40hz range... especially in the sub 30hz range.

the group delay matters most above 30hz, once you get below 30hz, it really don't matter

the ported box would have a big long port (see it)... but that would be needed in order to ensure there would be no port noise at high volumes (which would kill your score in the lanes).

[Alien Mantis]

Strange graph readings.

I would expect to see an amplitude peak around 3 db's higher on that ported box line, around the 40-50hz region.

Every single graph I have ever seen, shows a FLAT curve for a sealed box, with a drop-off starting around 50hz, and a slightly higher peak in db just above the tuning frequency for a ported enclosure.

And why would anyone ever want to run a GIANT over-sized SEALED box ???

Why not save space and just do a ported box?

[sqcomp]

No more advice

[talnlnky]

Strange graph readings.

I would expect to see an amplitude peak around 3 db's higher on that ported box line, around the 40-50hz region.

Every single graph I have ever seen, shows a FLAT curve for a sealed box, with a drop-off starting around 50hz, and a slightly higher peak in db just above the tuning frequency for a ported enclosure.

And why would anyone ever want to run a GIANT over-sized SEALED box ???

Why not save space and just do a ported box?

and Infinite Baffle install is pretty much a giant sealed box. To mimic an IB install using a sealed box you only have to have a box 4 times greater than the vas of the sub.

that isn't an amplitude chart per say, it doesn't show how loud it'll be, only how quickly it'll roll off.

the reason why it doesn't look like the ported box is a lot louder is because it is a small size ported box considering how low it is tuned... That is an extremely low tuning for a car.


I'm trying to convince sqcomp to do something a bit more radical, yet easy on his install... I'd like to see dual 15's IB in his trunk.

[Alien Mantis]

AM -- Save space on that vented enclosure? That single enclosure is almost 3 cubes.

Design #3 is a 5 cf sealed box.

That is what I was referring to.

[_S7V7N_]

Sq you have a Sedan ? .....If so did you remove the 6x9's to get more sound out from the trunk....I have the base model....so my rear seats won't fold down....i'm flirting with the idea of seeing if there's a way to fit the fold down seats in there, with maybe changing a few bolts .

[talnlnky]

Sqcomp, if you start using membranes.... you will lose your 20-40hz octave... at least a good amount of it.

[talnlnky]

...which I won't...

The only reason I'd use those is if space was the first requirement. I think I can spare 2 cubes sealed for a very stable response. I'm going to be interested to hear what the sound is like with all the deadening treatment, the enclosure build, and the signal quality.

Right now I've got a discussion going on on another board having to do with aiming and speaker placement. It's got some pretty good contributors...all of them have been to USACi, IASCA, and MECA finals; some of them are actually world champions...

I feel that if I don't get on this system as soon as I get home it'll never be right. I'm just anxious to do this!
yeah.... focus on the mids & highs.... subs really aren't that hard to get sounding good.... sealed box, and enough cone area and you are good.

With a ported box, you have to have a awesome box design, or a 1/3 octave eq.

[_S7V7N_]

My bad for hijacking.....i'll delete my post, it was kinda rude.

[_S7V7N_]

What material is that Ensolite made out of ?

[talnlnky]

ensolite is a lightweight closed cell foam. You can buy it at http://www.raamaudio.com. It is very moldable, moreso than dynaliner. That being said, that 1/2" Dynaliner I'm using on my rear doors is THE $hit. I really have enjoyed both products.

i used ensolite on my yaris... i dunno how much it helped.... easy to use for sure... wish it was twice as thick. I understand how the foams work, but I really wonder which ones actually are worth a darn. Next time I buy a car, I'm just buying 5 gallons of the liquid junk (spectrum) and throwing it all over the floorboards... get it like 1/2" thick, then do the underside of the car with it too.... if that doesn't get rid off all the road noise, I don't know what will... We did that to a friends SUV... and it did wonders... I should've done the same.

[Alien Mantis]

As much as we all love our Yarii,

The Yarii's biggest problem is the fact that it is a unibody car.
It doesn't have a seperate FRAME under it.

All the suspension components attach directly to the body shell.

So, naturally it transmits more road noise.

It is after all..... an ECONOMY CAR.

I do wish that Toyota would have spent a little more effort on sound-dampening.
When you strip the panels off the car, you see how little they did.
I mentioned this when I filled out my "Toyota satisfaction survey".

But after all.... the Yaris is an ECONOMY CAR.

:iono:

[bzinn 1]

Wow I am glad I opened this thread,I just picked up a IDQ 12" for $50 from a buddy and it looks like it will work well in the small car,keep us posted on the boxs you chose,I need some ideas on what will work still.

[sqcomp]

*

[_S7V7N_]

Dude that spare tire needs to be relocated..Lolll i see lots of potential under there for a nice lil amp rack setup. Imma see if that sucker can be moved to under the car, kinda like how trucks are.

Yo do you think a set of 3.5's with a Mounting depth of 1.5 will fit in them c-pillars ?


http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG0919.jpg

[_S7V7N_]

http://4wheeldrive.about.com/od/bedliners/gr/herculiner.htm

You think that stuff could be an alternative for the trunk, for us that are on a budget to get some " mass " and deaden the trunk a bit ? Ace hardware has it for 24.99 a gallon.

[derickveliz2]

See? It's setup for a sound deadening exercise!

Sqcomp is right! I agree %110

I just started this process and every hour I spend it's worth it.

I started to notice the benefits in the early stages, watch video:

YARIS DEADENING VIDEO (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CkDh5qQDO_M)


I'm only installing a small 10' sub-woofer not a big deal or professional install like you guys, so I'm really looking forward to see how your set ups come alive.

:thumbsup:


.

[_S7V7N_]

I'm Def no pro, my respect goes to Sq and Taln I'm just learning, Loll as you can see on some of my questions, but it's great to Get opinions from others, I sure am glad there's a group of us now working on Sedans, before the majority of the Posts were on Hatches, The sedans are comming alive !!!

Good luck to You guys on your installs, I'm dying to see what type of creations can come from all this.

[swidd]

Wow, I just put lots of deadening and used a closed cell foam mattress to stuff into the open spaces in the rear hatchback wheel well area, and the difference in road noise is considerable already! Its like the noise picture shifted to dead silence from the back of the car, and noise coming only from the front, engine and doors.

This was easier than I feared! Just rip those panels off, clean up the dust, rip out the old speaker, lay down mat, fill up with foam, slap the panel back on, wipe off the fingerprints and test drive. Like 40 minutes per side.

I am so kicking myself for not doing this sooner! I've been so annoyed with the noise in the Yaris.

[talnlnky]

One of the installs I was involved with included an IDQ 10" woofer. We had it plugged into a quality amplifier to say the least. It was receiving as much as 600 very clean Watts. That little 10" would lift the back deck carpeting on demand and not even think twice about it.

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using 10"s.

except going with twice as many 8's looks cooler! :biggrin: Nothing like seeing an install of 8 or more 8's wangin in the back... seeing lots of cones moving at the same time is a cool visual.

[Alien Mantis]

One of the installs I was involved with included an IDQ 10" woofer. We had it plugged into a quality amplifier to say the least. It was receiving as much as 600 very clean Watts. That little 10" would lift the back deck carpeting on demand and not even think twice about it.

There is absolutely NOTHING wrong with using 10"s.


I can testify on this one.

I put one Alpine Type R 10" sub in a ported box in the hatch of my 3dr Yaris, and it ROCKS.
It's getting 400watts RMS.

I have always been a fan of 10" subs in cars.

[talnlnky]

Yeah...I toyed with the idea of doing eight ID 8's in the back of the sedan...

I then thought about my KISS principle and just went with two IDQ 12's.

that is simple... it's a lot of simple. omi-directional... unless you got a lot of distortion coming from them that's not an issue. I'd think the KISS principle would matter most with signal processing, crossovers, and everything above 100hz.

[talnlnky]

...and then I thought about a single IDMAX 12 off that 1200.1...

I need to STOP thinking though. It is seriously hampering my direction. As much as I like the IDMAX, I still don't think it would have the output of two IDQ 12 woofers. I also don't sincerely think I would hear a difference in that frequency range.

Taln,

You're right on the KISS principle statement. I've chosen to worry about the simple part of the install and deal with the top end as I get there. The days are coutning down.

Oh, after SBN in Daytona this weekend, I should have some good pictures of a vehicle that doesn't officially exist for another 18 hours yet. If you like sound, stick around, I should have something for you...

you know.. there is always that 21" maelstrom.... or this DPL 15" (http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=684&Cid=01b688a35d8ad153fb824bddd5097f11) which has a Fs of 19hz, a linear motor with 22mm one-way x-max... and would work great in an IB install.

[talnlnky]

okay butthead! I just had a thought flash through my mind...

There's NO NEED FOR THINKING! I hate thinking! I'm in the military, there's NO requisite to think here! LOL!

dude... i've talked to you on the phone like once... but man... we should really meet up some time when you get back. Don't you owe me a trip out to eugene anyways, I swear you were supposed to watch a buddy's fight, but then didn't come last minute for some lame reason.

[derickveliz2]

I know there are several shows up in Cananda I'l be making. I'll also be doing the Portland Auto Show this next year (if Jim plunks down money for the space like he wants to), as well as the Rod and Custom Show. Oh! There's also the Sherwood Cruise In and Auto Show too.

How do you find out about all these shows? any shows around Massachusetts area?

I would like to go.

Thanks
D.

[_S7V7N_]

The USACI and IASCA sites have quite a few shows posted. Plus you go to one show and people see that you're an alright dude, You'll deff here about more local shows.

[talnlnky]

Something like that. It's been over a year, maybe two now.

I've gotta get this project on it's feet and standing up within 30 days of me being back. How about this, I'll satiate you by sending you the build pics first. Are you down for a trip up to BC here this year? I know there are several shows up in Cananda I'l be making. I'll also be doing the Portland Auto Show this next year (if Jim plunks down money for the space like he wants to), as well as the Rod and Custom Show. Oh! There's also the Sherwood Cruise In and Auto Show too.

If I make it up to canada this year... it'll be on my honeymoon. I'm in the process of trying to be hired as a Probation Officer.... I've made it past the interview stage, but there's still background check/psych eval, and then I have to be one of the few picked from a group of 9... If I get that job I may be able to put the cash together... but really... i've got too many expenses going right now.. I've been supporting myself, and partially supporting the fiancee off my meager salary since august... and debt has been slowly accumulating as a result. Portland show is possible for sure.

[derickveliz2]

Not much only:

05/23/10 12:00 1 IMPORT FACE OFF EPPING NH

All ready in my calendar.

[Alien Mantis]

I'm in the process of trying to be hired as a Probation Officer.... I've made it past the interview stage, but there's still background check/psych eval


Psych eval?
You might as well forget it then!


:bonk:

[talnlnky]

Not much only:

05/23/10 12:00 1 IMPORT FACE OFF EPPING NH

All ready in my calendar.

it's barely march... most shows for autosound happen in the summer... come april/may you should start to see stuff popping up... I remember the virginia area being pretty big when it came to shows... A few years back I wanted to Join IASCA, but they didn't have a single show in WA, so I didn't... joined dB Drags instead.... then found out there was only like 3 sanctioned shows that year in the state.... So I lost faith in the whole thing... THEN I MET the guy who runs/owns dB Drags.... the tool lived literally 15 minutes away from me. I think he purposely felt the need for there to be no autosound comp scene where he lived... otherwise his work would always be around him.... Ok maybe not... but really... its like if God live not in heaven, but rather in hell.... doesn't make sense... make some improvements dangit!

[_S7V7N_]

Texas is the place to be for IASCA and USACI, they damn near have a show every other weekend. Here in Florida there's quite a few shows, but they're more towards ricers, the big one that comes here to Orlando is Hot Import Nights. That is one Hot show, No lie.

[_S7V7N_]

My work schedule screws me up, I'm off Weds and Thurs and work Evenings Friday through Tuesday. Soon as my cars in line though i'm going to tell them i need at least one sunday outta the month off, and get some shows in line.

[talnlnky]

An update...

Jim and Justin are "talking dirty" to me about puting the L4 up on/in the dash. They've had a few months of the Yaris just sitting in the back of the shop. They put the alarm in it and tinted the thing, so they had time to look at the dash.

...If I can get the L4 and the L1 Pro SE up there in the same vicinity...

Oh, that will free up the kick area to take the L8 right in the corners of the footwells. Since we havce the sytrofoam "filler" down there, I can use that space to glass in the mid bass.

It has been said, once you go to the floor, you'll never use the door!

Oh man! 30 days until I see my car to finish it.

Audio heaven will ensue.

In my mazda I had my koda 8's (4" mounting depth) in glass pods in my kicks... it was AWESOME for midbass... very tight... and very strong. they had something like .15 -.2cuft sealed. The mazda was an auto.... the yaris is not.... I think i'd have trouble glassing them in the kicks if I tried... I do wear a size 12... plus, that's where I plan on putting my 4's... but if you can do it.. thats awesome.

[_S7V7N_]

Cool deal bro...Welcome back to the states !

[The Architect]

pics of crimper bc i dont believe it.

[goku87]

Beer is pretty much the universal currency lol. Can't wait to see the final product!!!

Not gonna lie, I use a combination of hammer/pliers to crimp. It's just so much easier lol.

[talnlnky]

If you'd believe it, the easiest part was crimping the terminations. Justin purchased some progressive hand crimper...it's a fancy little vice gripped little jobbie. I was able to crimp the terminations with one hand.


Easy maybe.... but you didn't feel like a man afterwards like you do when you get done smacking an 1/0awg crimp terminal with a mallet or hammer.

[Palmer812]

You know why those are so expensive? They are made in Germany. You know the Germans always make good stuff.:biggrin:

[derickveliz2]

.

I need more friends... (o:

D.

[goku87]

Why is audison and hertz stuff so hard to find? I would love to have their stuff because it's really high quality, but it's just retarded expensive from dealers.

[_S7V7N_]

I'm getting ready to rip up my trunk again and redo the amp set-up..I need a bigger box..Wayy bigger.

[_S7V7N_]

How much airspace you working with ? Right now i'm like at 1.0 cubic ft per chamber, i want at least 2.0 Per sub. I'm going to go sealed for now till i Burn these puppies out.

[_S7V7N_]

Trust me i know how it is. When i go in and ask the mechanics about upgrading the alternator, or what's the fuses on the positive side of the battery terminal, they ask " why " i say " why not ? " then they see the set-up and are amazed that a yarii can put a bit of thump out. I plan on keeping this lil biatch just cause it's good on gas and it's almost paid off, it's an 07 with 17 k on it, this thing will last me forever.

[talnlnky]

Trust me i know how it is. When i go in and ask the mechanics about upgrading the alternator, or what's the fuses on the positive side of the battery terminal, they ask " why " i say " why not ? " then they see the set-up and are amazed that a yarii can put a bit of thump out. I plan on keeping this lil biatch just cause it's good on gas and it's almost paid off, it's an 07 with 17 k on it, this thing will last me forever.

People are stupid, end of story. I could take one of those 1/32 model replica cars and put a loud stereo in one of them (tho it wouldn't be loud when playing below 1khz).... Size doesn't matter... it really doesn't, ESPECIALLY when talking about the size of the car.

[_S7V7N_]

They just have no imagination. They're stuck on only crx's and hatchbacks being the only cars to throw a nice system in. I usually just smile and say " crank up your system " . End of story. Majority of the time they give you the ol story of " well i had one a few yrs back but i took it out because it started to give me probs ..bla bla bla """ It's far easier to be a hater than to say " wow bro, good luck on the install "

[goku87]

"retarded expensive" is a term I use very very loosely. I just looked around for the quote I got from the dealer for cost, couldn't find it of course, and the hertz website is giving me a "80004005" error so I'm pretty much going completely off my terrible memory. For two 15"s (unsure what line, HXsomething?) I think it was ballpark of $1100. Granted, they did have a ridiculously high sensitivity rating, the power handling didn't quite excite me all that much, obviously since I can't remember what it was. But $1100 for two 15s? That seems a little excessive. If I had some numbers I could throw it in that sexy spreadsheet you like so much. Maybe their site will be up tomorrow.

Also, ditch the spare tire. You don't need it. It's pretty worthless when you do need it. Can only go like 35 on it or something to that effect. And probably 90% of the time when you "need" it you are in an area where you could just call up a friend and say "hey I need help! Can you come pick me up so we can go grab my spare really quick?" What I do (since I have my amps in my spare tire spot) is have a fifth tire in my apartment, so if I get a flat it's a quick swap then I can just patch/plug the other tire whenever it's convenient for me.

Buuuuuuuuuuut that's just my personal donut opinion.

[derickveliz2]

The Toyota dealership is supposed to drop off the bezel piece and we have the 1 DIN Metra kit already...I'm just excited about powering the piece up and putting up on the head unit eye candy thread. I think I'm the only Yaris with a P-01 so far...

That sounds great sqcomp, 2 questions, would you have the part # for the Bezel?

and is this the Metra kit?

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/Metra-1.jpg

Thanks

[derickveliz2]

Toyota Bezel part, it is 55405-52640. List price is $75. I've seen it online for as low as $56 without shipping. If you go into the dealership they cna print off a dash blow up that will detail the parts you need. The nice thing is that we're ordering the part on the shop's account with the dealership. That should save a few dollars AND get the dealership to deliver the part to me. Nice.

Thanks, I called Toyota (local) asked for the Bezel, they sell it for $86.21, witch is Ok with me.

Now a "Dash" blow up, for the parts that we need...? what other parts do we need?

is this what you are talking about?

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/YarisAudio20Visual-38.jpg

Thanks

D.

[derickveliz2]

They gave me a different blow up. It was for the entire dash. Okay, Metra doesn't make the kit for ours...I'm sourcing mine from Best Kits & Harnesses. The part number is BKTOYK969


I'll try to find more diagrams for the DASH, maybe here in YarisWold we could find one.

So the Kit is about $30, do we need to buy the Harnesses too?




http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/BestKitsHarnesses.jpg

[goku87]

Three things:
1) Nice Makita. The light weight is awesome for doing installs. :thumbsup:
2) Looks really nice, excited to see it installed.
3) WTF is up with the stack of change?

[derickveliz2]

Love it!

What are you going to paint? I'm a little sleepy and didn't get that part.

[goku87]

4) Why paint it? you should wrap it in CF.
5) Would there have been enough room for a scanguage to fit in that bottom section?

[talnlnky]

I see the teammate with the FIT switched to a MkII JBL GTI... should net better scores. The GTI's with the split gap motor had a very flat Bl curve... low distortion, and one of the lowest inductance ratings I've ever seen on a sub. Great SQ woofers if put in the right box.

[talnlnky]

Update:

It looks like my theory works! The MEK mixed with ground up plastic flecks from the kit extras seems to fill in very well. As of this moment the kit's seams are filled and waiting for the cure which is coming along nicely. I have pics to follow this evening.

By MEK, you're talking about the hardening agent used in glass work... correct?

[_S7V7N_]

:thumbup:

[derickveliz2]

I have a question that comes to my mind because of my lack of knowledge...

You are going to have two 15" subs in the trunk, two 8" (mid-base) on the kick panel, two 4" or so mids up front near the pillars with two Tweeters, right?

and 3 amps! how are you going to connect all of them, my set up for example lets me to have Woofers, Mids, and Tweeters. But when I try to add one more drive, my equation goes no where )o: and here is the question: "At what point you divide in 2 one signal? or how it's done"?

sorry it might be a very naive question, but I would like to add a couple of 4 inch speakers to my system but I don't know where this extra channel comes out and still have control.

Thanks.

D.

[talnlnky]

I met up with SQcomp today (was in portland testing for a job)... Deck trime piece looks nice. He had just put some Rage gold (high quality bondo/filler) and was waiting for it to harden so he could sand it.

Fun guy to meet in person.


Derick, there is afaik, only one good way to get multiple speakers(of different kinds) to play on a single channel... and that is by using a passive crossover (which are made up of coils & caps, and sometimes resistors). You define a point, say 3000hz, and you design a passive x-over to split the signal into two signals, a high, and a low, with the cutoffs being at 3000hz. now you can run that signal to your tweet (3000 and up), and the other to your mid (3000 and down).

you could technically run both drivers off the same amp without a crossover, but then you'd run into a few problems. Lets use an example of a 100x2rms amp for mids & highs. Your tweet is 4 ohm, and so is your mid, without a crossover your amp would see a 2ohm load instead of a 4ohm load... (makes the amp work harder. Also, your tweet would receive the same frequencies, and the same amount of power as your mid... Tweeter go TWEET TWEET TWIZZEEET.... _______________ (nothing). You'd also probably get some weird cancellation issues (mainly in the upper mid to high frequencies) which could wreak havoc on your frequency response.


I can't remember off the top of my head how john is going to set up his drivers & channels... tho, I thought he said he was doing fully active... meaning he won't need to use passives at all.


For my install, I've got a custom 3-way component + 2 amps... I have an active crossover that will split the signal between the mids+highs & the Midbass (cutoff around 200hz). The tweet & mid will have a crossover, tho... since my mid is a full range, I may or may not use a low pass on the mid... the tweet will have a highpass, and that will probably be set around 5-10khz... but it really depends on if I put a lowpass on my 4's or not.

[goku87]

Clearly we need to get a mod in here to delete some of these pictures because that looks like sex...

[goku87]

Ahh, you have no idea how hard I just laughed at that first sentence lol.

I reeeeeeeeeeeeeally want to see this enclosure, because it's obviously going to be wicked awesome.

Just curious, where is the proposed plexi going to fit into all of this?

[goku87]

Stop editing your post. I had to redo this one like three times because you kept adding stuff lol.

"We're thinking of painting the amp rack the same color as the grey trim of the radio console and putting a couple LEDs in there to show it off." - i'm assuming the rack, yes? you should make them blink to the beat. Nothing says rice quite like LEDs that light up with the music.

Heck if you did that, you should get the triColor LEDs, then use the red for low frequencies, green for mid, and blue for high (see how I picked the colors vs audio freqs, because red has longest wavelength, and blue is shortest? I'm clever).

[goku87]

Oh yeah, don't think I ever told you, but welcome home.

[goku87]

Last edited by sqcomp; Today at 01:16 AM. Reason: ...Because it annoys the $hit out of Goku...

Jerk lol.

Did you decide on what LEDs you wanted to get? Because I'm telling ya, that was a pretty epic idea I had...

[goku87]

Every hertz I've heard at the local dealer here has sounded pristine. If he's cutting you a good price, then I say go for it.

[talnlnky]

He's selling me HARD on using a dual 4 Ohm 15" High Energy sub for the setup instead of the two ID 15"s. I've just never heard one before. Hmmm...Like I said, things chage FAST!

Since you are running sealed, the subs are more likely to hit x-max.. cause sealed boxes allow for subs to move a lot when playing down low... This means a FLAT BL curve is even more necessary than if you were running ported.

Scour the net for Dumax/Klippel tests for both subs to see if there are any BL charts for either... Manufacturers usually don't release that info, cause it will really show weaknesses if the sub has them, and the motor is usually the place to look.

I think there is a forum somewhere in which one guy has ran DUMAX on literally a hundred or so subs... I'm sure the ID has been done, in fact, I probably have an ID dumax on my computer somewhere.... i'll do some hunting over the course of the next week.

[derickveliz2]

Derick:

Okay...my situation is fairly unique. I have massive control. The P-01 has four pre-outs, high, midrange, midbass, and subwoofer. Yes, I have three amps, a mono (subs), a two channel (midbass), and a four channel (midrange and high). The four channel has two inputs that I'll use to plug in the signal from the two pre outs for the highs and midrange. All I'm doing is using the 4 way electronic crossover that the P-01 gives me.

in your case you may look at capping your tweeter and going "quasi-active" with the amp's onboard crossover.

Oh yeah...

Sqcomp:

That is not FAIR :mad: your Head Unit it's so powerful! I'm jealous :frown:



so what does "quasi-active" means? to use the HPF on the amp?




Then I have 2 possible options, go for DEQ-9200 and have Tweeters / Mids / Sub.

http://images.sonicelectronix.com/images//320695/main/deq9200.jpg


or

buying something like yours and spend twice as much or more...

http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ImageHandler/scale/340/342/products/20100/130/h130DEXP99R-f_mt.jpeg

[talnlnky]

You know there are products that do the same stuff that his deck does... maybe even better... and they are stand alone items. Audiocontrol has a gob of equipment from signal processing, Digital eq's & crossovers with memory presets so you can have different EQ settings and such. It might be a better & cheaper solution to get a bare bones deck & a stand alone signal processor than to buy a deck with all the bells and whistles built in.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/Mobile-Audio.html

The digital stuff is very spendy tho... but if you start looking around car forums, or ebay you might find a good buy on used gear.

[goku87]

10 months of not spending any tax free money at all really helps my situation.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

[talnlnky]

..."maybe even better"...

It's a big maybe to hurdle.

There is a good reason why I spent twice as much on the deck.

I was talking to him, not you.

[goku87]

Need... More... UPDATES!!!!!

[DailyDriver]

+1

[derickveliz2]

Wow... I wish I had the time and expertise to do something like this... keep it up! and don't forget to take lots of pictures.

[goku87]

Unless it's an ML3800 I'm not going to be impressed. :P

http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/Doc/pdf_ml3800.pdf

If you got that, I would seriously buy a plane ticket to fly down just to hear it lol.

[talnlnky]

It doesn't take much...just doing. 500 ml of resin, use maybe 5 cc's of MEKp type stuff. Instead of cutting your mat rip it so that you have frayed ends so that they blend better. Little things like this. It's been a few years since I did this so I wasted around 1000 mL of resin from making it too hot with hardener. You should have seen my first try! The damn resin was smoking. It actually singed the cardboard that was in the trash can. No $hit.

Bout 8 years ago I was glassing in the middle of winter... it was 20F outside, I had to use enough MEKp to make it smoke just to ensure the stuff got hot enough to cure. I had a few spots that didn't get hot enough, and they stayed goey for like two months. Since then i've decided not to glass anytime is below 40F.

[sqcomp]

*

[goku87]

Uh-oh...i think goku called my subwoofer. Dammit! So much for secrets.

Lol well what gave it away really was the amp. Since you needed 900W @ 4 ohms (and I think you mentioned Hertz earlier too) it pretty much limited to one sub lol. Shoud be an awesome sounding sub though. :)

[sqcomp]

*

[Alien Mantis]

What's going on in these pics is the install of the Stinger battery. I had to fab up a little bus bar to acommodate the factory plugs without cutting into the OEM wiring harnesses...which I am loathe to do. No, this is NOT the final With that being said, we're returning the LRx 1.1k and replacing it with another LRx 2.9. Why? I need more power at 4 Ohm mono than the 1.1k can give me. One of my fellow team members asked me why I didn't stick with Image dynamics. The only real reason I gave him was that I had the chance to drive a Ferrari 599 instead of a Challenger SRT 8. I chose the Ferrari. I'll leave you guys teased on the woofer for now. He he!


The first thing that popped into my head was THIS:

:biggrin:

[sqcomp]

*

[Alien Mantis]

FOCAL Utopia is so unbelievably expensive.

For the price of one Utopia Be set... I could build an entire car audio system that would be so awesome, you could hear it in the next STATE.

FOCAL sucks. It sucks because it is overpriced boutique snob crap.

:moon:

Just my opinion. I know some people think they gotta spend a million dollars to be happy. More power to ya.

DISCLAIMER:
I am not referring to competition systems

[talnlnky]

Sqcomp know more than anybody else on here how much I disdain the idea of buying expensive subs... I once bought a 12" sub for $750 after tax... Saved over $100 on the purchase too. what a waste, sub was a quality built sub, but I later bought a sub for $370 that was better in both sq & spl... go figure... it probably wasn't as bullet proof tho as the spendy sub... and tho it was very impressive looking, it wasn't as shiney or cool looking at the spendy sub.

with that said, i'd pay $800 for a sub again some day... but it better meet or exceed one of the following...
1) 40+ mm one way linear movement & 15 - 18" in size
2) 32+ mm one way linear movement & 21-24" in size
3) 32+ mm one way yadda yadda & have an Fs of 12hz and play flat down to 10hz when installed in a 12-15cuft ported box.

basically, any of the three options would make for an amazing home theater sub... and someday, I plan on having a basement, and having dual 18" or 21" subs that fit one or two of the above criteria... if not all 3. Car audio tho.... ehhh... cars are a horrible environment for stereos, and spending soo much on a sub is silly, especially when considering the reason for such high price tags is usually for two reasons, 1) brand name 2) proprietary parts that usually aren't any better than what can be made using generic parts (but cost a hell of a lot more to produce).

I could show you a sub that would sound as good if not better than that focal for 1/4 the price. $500 or $2100... hmmm

[sqcomp]

*

[Alien Mantis]

Sqcomp know more than anybody else on here how much I disdain the idea of buying expensive subs... I once bought a 12" sub for $750 after tax... Saved over $100 on the purchase too. what a waste, sub was a quality built sub, but I later bought a sub for $370 that was better in both sq & spl... go figure...


Yeah, that is exactly my point.

I can get a JL W7 for $360.
If there is no sub on the market that can beat the JL W7 for LESS than $360... then the JL wins everytime.

If you show me a sub that can MATCH the W7 for less than $360... then the JL W7 LOSES.

It's all about "performance value".

Lets say a FOCAL sub costs over $1,000, and is only SLIGHTLY better than the $360 JL W7.
Guess what? The FOCAL LOSES badly.

It's all about "performance value".

( Which is why it is still hard to beat an Alpine Type-R! )

:smoking:

[Palmer812]

sq, here is where I put my fuse holder. There was a threaded stud sticking out from the firewall. I just drilled a hole in the base of the fuse holder and used a 10mm nut and lock washer. The wire is 16" long.
33768

[sqcomp]

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[Palmer812]

JL not my favorite either BUT it was free. :thumbup:

[DailyDriver]

Is that something you can teach me palmer?

[Palmer812]

Is that something you can teach me palmer?

What? Getting stuff for free. I have been a manager of a stereo shop for 12 years. Just perks of the job. Last month I got a free Alpine INA-W900.
33771

[sqcomp]

*

[goku87]

why did you opt out of having a bit one?

I mean, you are going balls to the wall on everything else, and a complete digital signal from source to amp? $hiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiit.

[sqcomp]

*

[Alien Mantis]

I'm looking forward to seeing some speaker pods, amp rack, and sub+enclosure.

:biggrin:

[Palmer812]

sq you might come home from that Kenwood training with a new toy. We had our Kenwood training a few weeks ago and they gave away $2500 worth of equipment afterwards :thumbsup:

[sqcomp]

*

[talnlnky]

Doooood! That would be more than sweet. I'd probably give it, whetever it is, to my brother in law. He's been working his butt off for no paycheck this year. It'd be nice to give him something cool.

Internship?

[sqcomp]

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[Palmer812]

The guys you are going with are they Excelon dealers or just regular Kenwood?

[talnlnky]

ok, so my program (bassbox pro) is all phuqered up visually... not sure how or why it happened. If I can't figure out how to fix it I will probably switch back to the Free WinISD program.. which isn't as good, but still decent.

Here's a graph for you. 1.5cuft box w/ 2000rms (takes a lil more than 2000 to get it to x-max... it appears the true SPL is around 88dB 1w/1m.

looks good in the sealed box, turns out the DCR really is 2.6ohm too. use your eq in the 25hz range to give a slight boost, and cut it up top where you blend it with the midbass and i'm sure it'll work great.

[sqcomp]

*

[Palmer812]

The KDC-X994 also has variable illumination and all Excelon has a 2 year warranty where the regular line is 1 year. The BT900 is sweet but no has no cd player. I'm not ready to give up cd just yet. DAMN! your dash looks good! That really turned out nice.:thumbsup:

[sqcomp]

*

[_S7V7N_]

That One piece looks sexy as hell, very nice work, You gonna throw a nice coat of wax on that to keep it lookin shiney and make it a lil harder to scratch ?

[goku87]

"The way you do that makes a grown man cry"

lol

That is WAAY sexy.

[sqcomp]

*

[_S7V7N_]

How bout you ship me a few of them Brutus in the Background or a Ground Pounder Crunch or 2 :iono:

[devilgod666]

need hel umm i'm trying to disable my yaris 2008 fatory alarm and i just don't know where to find the wire's :( plz i neew picture's to learn how to disable it plz some one held :D

[_S7V7N_]

Yo bro, you're jacking this thread, if you need help just make your own " New Topic " and if anybody is knowledgeable in that area we'll be more than happy to help.

Ty
SeVeN

[sqcomp]

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[Alien Mantis]

Everything is looking really good so far.

Except I have a problem with you bringing that main power cable into the cabin right between the brake and clutch pedal!

Seriously ???

There was NO OTHER location you could have chosen instead?

Methinks you were drinking too much of that crappy microbrew, and you lost your mind for a minute.

:biggrin:

[sqcomp]

*

[talnlnky]

Thank you Taln...I'm looking at that carefully. In your opinion, what happens to the response on this bad boy when the enclosure gets to around 2 cubes? Everyone needs to give Taln a pat on the back. Ol' boy just got himself a JOB! :P

Start date is set for the 6th of june. Gives me time to get married, go on honeymoon, come back, compete in Hoopfest (worlds largest 3on3 street basketball tourney) and then have another week off. Supposed to sign papers and be an official Probation Officer sometime next week.

As for your box... I'll be bored tomorrow, will get around to doing another graph. I doubt there will be a huge difference... but who knows... I do know the low end will be stronger, and midbass should be toned down a bit.

[sqcomp]

*

[talnlnky]

Pink is 1.5cuft
yellow is 2.0cuft

Dude, this program is really messed up... I've uninstalled it, then reinstalled it, then put updates on it... and now its not just visual issues, it also appears to be graphing stuff weird.

Take a look at the first graph, now the second... they have completely different roll off points, then the peaks are different.

Oh well, use this graph just to show how the bigger box will flatten out the response a bit.

[sqcomp]

*

[talnlnky]

Interesting. We'll work with that. I'll see if I can work the baffle area to get close to that 2 cubes in the side...

We're going to be concentrating on the other side of the trunk today for the battery and the missing distrobution block and the amp rack in the center. I'd like to have the 4.5 and one of the 2.9's up today so I can plug in the speakers and start playing with soundstage and imaging over this week.

regardless of what material you use for your baffle (glass or wood)... be sure to make it slightly thicker than the rest of the box walls. Help keep box flex down, any movement in that car will add frequencies not meant to be heard. People usually don't make their baffles thick enough, hell, people usually don't make any of the sides thick enough. You can feel boxes flex with 3/4" MDF if the box has sides much longer than 15".

EDIT: well, people don't make their walls thick enough for the amount of bracing they have.... which is usually none.

[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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[goku87]

love the pics. keep them coming!!!

[sqcomp]

*

[derickveliz2]

.
See what happens when you have lots of time to work on your Yaris!

Looking GOOD!!!

mm makes me think if I should install the amps where you are doing it and loose the folding seats capability? or just keep up with my plan putting them on the floor between rear and front seats ? :iono:


.

[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

*

[goku87]

Such a manly-man, to use pink wires and such...

Other than that, looks awesome! I can't wait to see the amps mounted.

[sqcomp]

*

[typicaljawaiian808]

I been checkin your build and see all the grounding points you used. I'm gonna have to do those as well.

[Alien Mantis]

Lookin` good.

As sexy as those Audison amps are, I would wanna show them off too!

( Good call on the alarm. Don't risk losing those precious amps! )

:biggrin:

[sqcomp]

*

[goku87]

...I was at the dealer the other day talking about a system for my (not yet owned) new vehicle, and we got on the subject of grounds.

Apparently it's a good idea to run them all to the same ground (obviously), but run a cable (0 AWG) from that ground to the same ground that the alternator is connected to. Seems a little excessive, although I can kind of see the reasoning behind it... kind of. Did you do this?

I've always just removed the paint and grounded directly to the shiny metal... Different strokes for different folks?

[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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[derickveliz2]

Pretty sub just showed up at the shop...

This thing is HEAVY!.

:bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow::bow: :bow::bow::bow:


.

[goku87]

Pretty sub just showed up at the shop...

This thing is HEAVY! Pics to come right now...

Sweet. Start posting. :thumbsup:

[sqcomp]

*

[derickveliz2]

Lucky me, I don't have to worry about an alarm! in the past 12 years I have never locked my car at home or/and at work! it's expensive to live around here but it's very safe. knock on wood!

[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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[sqcomp]

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[goku87]

What kind of dist block is that?

[sqcomp]

*

[talnlnky]

:mad: It's a Streetwires distro :mad:

I wanted to run totally with Stinger product. However most of thier cool pieces either don't work well or are discontinued. I had to replace the battery terminal from the whammy stingers with the Voltage display on them to the Streetwires ones (which are VERY well engineered) you see on the battery now. The ironic thing is that the Streetwires terminals work so much better on the Stinger battery than the Stinger terminals. Sad.

The cool thing though is that the deck has a little Voltage display on it on some of the screens.

I'll be cleaning up the wiring with heat shrink. The boots I bought for the wires are a sunovabish to get on, so I'm abandoning that idea. I've got to learn this deck though...you know where I'll be on my lunch breaks for a good while!

I'm excited to get these pillars made. That SHOULD happen this week. It looks like I will show to the cruise with only tweets and mids...we'll see. I can say that this system will NOT be finished, even as much as I want to have it done, I'm only one person AND I actually have to work...move 45 miles away on the 1st, search for a better job, do the Army thing...raise the dead, and walk on water.

I can tell you this much though, this system WILL be done by June 22nd. That's the date for a MECA competition in Spokane. I'm thinking that I'll break my teeth in on MECA and save my IASCA "rookie-ness" for next year.

One more note, I'll also be taking the fuses down from 250 Amperes to as close as I can to 160 Amperes (which is the total draw of the amplifiers).

Buwahahaha.... MECA made it to Spokane.... talk about ironic... I never thought they'd move into the northwest. Course, as soon as I get myself a career that pays wells & has good benefits and I decided to live here long term, Spokane gets some action... Too bad they were in Spokane 4-6years ago when my friends & I were ripping up the car audio scene there.

I'll be in spokane two weeks before that show for my wedding, and then the week after for Hoopfest... The kick my butt training started on saturday. Time to strengthen the muscles slightly, get my speed/agility and lungs up to par, and get my muscle memory for shooting on point. Last year we were undefeated till we got to the championship game.... lost twice in a row (double elimination)... I WANT MY WINNERS SHIRT!

I'm looking forward to hearing the mids & tweets tho... stereos can still sound good without 100hz down content.

[centrysis]

:smile:Before you walk on that water, make sure you turn some of it into wine first. Or at least beer.

[sqcomp]

*

[Alien Mantis]

I would go with tweeters too.

Even though those mids are kinda small in diameter, they look bulky for the A-pillars.

Is that sub enclosure large enough for that woofer?
It looks too small.

( just some fast observations from a guy who does not claim to know everything )

Teach me, `O mighty guru.

[Arkhangel]

This looks Awesome good work.. Thats the kinda of subs i want to make for mine, have 1 10" on either side :D

[sqcomp]

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[derickveliz2]

.
Awesome!

How/where are you aiming the mids and tweeters?

Is your HU friendly user? is it easy to go through the menus?

good job!

D.

[sqcomp]

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[derickveliz2]

.
.
Why do I read in a bunch of forums that you aim the left speaker to pilots left ear and right speaker to pilots right ear, and others suggest to aim at the center kind of symmetrical???.. . :iono:


Sorry for my naive questions :thumbup:

[bzinn 1]

That is a great question.......one I have been researching my self and really dont understand the answers I am reading,also trying to learn the timing of the speakers,that part has me lost.....I am gonna figure it out though

Love the Hertz sub......great sound out of them.......If you get bored with those ID8s let me know.....I love how the ID8s sound for filler,thinking about using a set myself.

[sqcomp]

*

[derickveliz2]

As for aiming, there are quite a lot of variables that go into the sound that hits your ears.

What's your approach?

are you doing everything trail and error?


.
:bow:


.:thumbsup:

[bzinn 1]

I though I saw ID8s in the back ground of a picture and figured you were using them.....L8s also very nice.

[Alien Mantis]

"Aiming" and "Time Alignment" is tricky because of how the sound waves bounce around in the vehicle.

( All vehicles are different. )

Some vehicles are easier to tweak than others.

AND.... where do you want your "sweet spot" to be?
You aim for the "sweet spot" to be "anywhere" in the vehicle, but it never works out that way.

Some "sweet spots" are outside the car.... with the doors open.... 5 feet away.

:biggrin:

[Alien Mantis]

Hey SQcomp....

So what is the deal with your fancy expensive tweeters?
You don't like how they sound? Are they too harsh?
Are they silk dome?
You having trouble aligning them to hit your sweet spot?

( or do they just plain sound "bad" ? )

[sqcomp]

*

[talnlnky]

...okay big edit...

I had a whole page going on. This situation needs to be resolved between Scott and myself about the L1 Pro and the L1 Pro SE before I say anything. I owe him that much.

I'll leave it at this, I *may* be replacing the Legatia tweeters temporarily until I can get some replacements...of which I have several options from the shop. I think I'm going to realistically be using the ID XS-28. I want to use the MD-100 but I don't want to buy an entire component set from the shop owner to do so. I was looking at using the Hertz Mille big chamber 1 1/8" tweeters...but not at what they're asking for a pair (even at my cost). The Thesis tweeters are twice as expensive as the Mille tweets...that's a no go for my budget right now.

the biggest thing that seperates expensive fancy tweeters from medium ok tweeters is how low they can play. With that said, you could grab two tweets off partsexpress for $40 after shipping and get good results since your tweets will only be playing less than 1 octave of range.

[Alien Mantis]

the biggest thing that seperates expensive fancy tweeters from medium ok tweeters is how low they can play. With that said, you could grab two tweets off partsexpress for $40 after shipping and get good results since your tweets will only be playing less than 1 octave of range.

So I am guessing SQcomp is trying to tune the blend between the tweets and the mids? ( and he is not liking the results he is getting )

This has probably been mentioned, but exactly WHAT is the crossover points between the tweets and mids? Are you "blending", or are you "seperating"?

And why would you want to force the tweets to play lower?
Wouldn't you just let the midrange drivers handle those freqs?

I might know a little about how "audio" works, but I am obviously not experienced with tuning a high-end competition system.
So I ask these questions just to build on my own limited knowledge.

[sqcomp]

*

[JBougie]

I so wish I had 1/1000th of your knowledge about audio when piecing my system together .... lol

[sqcomp]

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[goku87]

Bite into that one AM! Which ones am I looking at? :D

I guessed the sub. His turn lol

[talnlnky]

And why would you want to force the tweets to play lower?
Wouldn't you just let the midrange drivers handle those freqs?

I might know a little about how "audio" works, but I am obviously not experienced with tuning a high-end competition system.
So I ask these questions just to build on my own limited knowledge.

well, there are a ton of variables...

If it was possible to make a perfect sq system. you would only have 1 speaker per channel (ie, left speaker, right speaker) and it would be able to play from about 15hz up to 25khz. Problem is that it is VERY difficult to make full range speakers. There are 10 octaves of sound in the 20hz-20khz range. the best "full range" speakers on the market currently are 3"-5" units and they are only capable of playing 7-8 octaves. Most struggle to play above 10khz, and most can't play well below 80hz.

The reason why a single speaker is awesome is because all the sound comes from one point, which means when you do your imaging/staging/aiming portion of your install, you'll have a much easier time. You don't have to worry about weird rainbow effects (highs sound like they are up high like head level, but mids sound like they are at your feet).

Going with less speakers also reduces the amount of crossovers you need. Having good crossover(s) makes for about 60% of the total install quality in my opinion. Even more important than enclosures designs, quality drivers, and sound deadening.

So, if you can limit how many speakers you run, you make your install easier. The simplest answer possible is always the most reliable one, and usually the best overall.

Because of the current limitations of speakers, there are some problems introduced however.

The higher the frequency a speaker plays, the more directional it becomes. Being very directional isn't a problem, UNLESS your speakers aren't aimed at your head. If they are aimed some other place, then you will have dips in your frequency response

Another issue with having speakers play most of the frequencies is that it requires a voice coil with a very low LE (which is hard to do and still have good power handling).

Another is that it requires more linear movement (x-max) from the driver. Without a linear motor, a speaker will start to distort very quickly. Multiple linear motor technologies have been around in subs for over 10years, in fact there are a few that have been around a very long time. However, they usually jack up the price of the speaker and thus aren't widespread. There are also some technologies that only work for subs, whereas there are some that have even been used in mids & tweets. The more frequencies you require a speaker to play, the harder it has to work... Linear motors allow speakers to play more frequencies at once before distortion sets in.



So, why would you want your tweets to play low.... well, SQcomp I believe is trying to stay away from that. "Low" for a tweet would be playing anything below 5khz. Normal crossover points for a 6.5" component set would be 2khz-5khz (usually in the 2.5-3khz area tho).

In some installs however, if you can get your tweet to play low enough you can limit how many speakers you have, and still be able to have a very good frequency response in a system that is able to get loud before distorting.

Take a look at HLCD's or compression drivers.... there are the tweets used in club speakers. There are a few of them used in car audio. They are generally able to play around 800hz up to about 16khz... All you really need is a mid with a fairly strong midbass, and a sub, a band of eq around 18-20khz and you are set.


It all comes down to getting the fequency response desired, and the staging/imagine you want. And limiting the amount & complexity of your crossover(s) has a huge impact on how hard of a job you'll have.

[sqcomp]

*

[derickveliz2]

.

I though I knew it all! LOL

(o:

[sqcomp]

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[derickveliz2]

Derick,To answer your first question about trial and error, the answer is "sometimes". It depends on what we're doing. I know what has worked in the past for me, I know the general fundamentals. This is where my need for more experience leads me to try other things and lean on the experience of the shop owners who have been doing this since I started in the early 90's.

Thanks, spcomp!

I've been reading the owners manual for the DEX-P99RS, I think it's going to be a "RELIGIOUS EXPERIENCE" for me, I can't wait.
:smile:



D.

[goku87]

You're killing me with the lack of pictures...

[sqcomp]

*

[talnlnky]

Seriously though, I have a lot of pictures. All three amps are up, by the end of today they should be powered. I'm waiting on the quote for the Audison Thesis Violino tweeters (yes, I gave it away), and my flippin' mix on the fleece was to cold. It's still kicking 12 hours later.

Realistically today, there will be power to all the amps, and answer for the replacement tweeters, the kicks should be ready to be started, and the backup sensors *should* be done.

Edit:

The ground point for the 4.5 "stripped out" when I attached all three grounds. In the pictures I'll put on tonight you'll notice that I made a new ground bolt from the outside in...like we did at Freightliner oh so long ago.

I never trusted self tapping screws, I always did the nut/bolt routine for grounds. Are you going to mix up some more resin nice and hot and lay it over the top of your cold mix to heat it up?. Nothing worse than cold resin.

[sqcomp]

*

[goku87]

Mwahahahaha, excellent stuff. It's coming together really really well. :thumbsup:

[sqcomp]

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[derickveliz2]

Lets see!!!!

[sqcomp]

*

[derickveliz2]

.
W O W . . .

If I could just do something like that :wub:
.
:bow:

[sqcomp]

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[talnlnky]

so whats your style for doing glass work on that sub box...
So far you've done skeleton, then fleece & resin... are you going to then do mat on the inside or outside of the fleece, or do you do something else?

I've done a few glass projects myself, but it is always nice to see how other people do their projects.

[sqcomp]

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[goku87]

audiogasm :drool:

[sqcomp]

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[talnlnky]

soo.... whats the difference? polished copper on the back? Is it all aesthetic changes?

[sqcomp]

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[talnlnky]

Looks good, i would love to do that with my 4's.

[sqcomp]

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[goku87]

you want it?

[sqcomp]

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[derickveliz2]

.

:bow::bow::bow:Hey looks awesome, but...

I'm a little confuse/frustrated :iono: with aiming/orientation of your speakers, is this part or your experiment that you talked about befere?
I imagine that the windshield will create lots of "Diffractions and Reflexions" and I read and see others aiming speakers towards the pilot and passenger,

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/48babfb2.jpg




Like these suggestions I got from HERTZ's website...



http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/hertz_HiEnergy_adv_manual-4.jpg

http://i634.photobucket.com/albums/uu61/derickveliz/Yaris%20Deadening/hertz_HiEnergy_adv_manual-6.jpg



BTW I ordered my HL70 last week!



.
:thumbsup:

[derickveliz2]

.

Even though Five Axis and Pioneer top of the line did it similar to your set up, but in one of Five Axis interviews they say that they did it like that because of time and space!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Csg_xoX-EIg&feature=player_embedded

Tell me that the CARROZERIA does some magic with this aiming set up!

I'm sorry for the huge picture here, but is on purpose so you can see the midrange and tweeters.




http://caraudiomag.com/sites/default/files/images/00000/06/01/lexus_isf_interior_driver_side.jpg
D.

[sqcomp]

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[Alien Mantis]

I don't like huge A-pillar pods. Looks goofy.
And I also don't like speakers in the A-pillars aimed at my face.
Too harsh. It is not preferable to have your face 2 feet away from the speakers.
The listening environment in a vehicle is too small. It is a challenge to overcome this obstacle.
The best listening environment would be a larger room, with acoustic dampening on the walls. The listener can be far away from the speakers, so the audio can blend together nicely.
You simply don't have this luxury when working with car audio, so you do whatever tricks you can to try and work with the small space you have.
( Which is no doubt why SQcomp is not aiming those A-pillar speakers straight at the listeners face. )

You can aim speakers at my face, if I am 15 feet away from them.
At 2-3 feet, I don't want them aimed at my face.

I always prefer car speakers mounted in the doors, but that's just me. I'm kinda simple like that.

:biggrin:

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[Alien Mantis]

The off-axis performance of those Legatia's is a win-win deal.

And the A-pillar pods you made look sweet.
I wouldn't be ashamed to have those in my Yaris.

( I can't wait to see them all finished and painted up. )

:thumbsup:

[talnlnky]

well, when talking about off-axis response, the smaller the speaker, generally the better the off-axis will be. Yet another reason why I chose a 3-way using a 4.5" driver for my mids.

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[bzinn 1]

HOly Frickin.......Shi........you know.....

Wow please post up pictures of how you are building the frames for those kicks as you go....

It was great to get the chance to see the system in person yesturday,the Apillars are incredable and once you find the timing on them the off axis is gonna sound incredable.

This makes me wish time woudl go a bit faster as I really want to start gettgin my system in the car,driving with no tunes does indeed suck....

[bzinn 1]

Also what degree was it you said final placement was on the pillars 15 degrees,I will use that as a starting point on mine and see if it works with my comps as well,I doubt it will,I never have luck with anything the first time....lol

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[talnlnky]

I'm skeptical about not doing enclosures on midbass drivers... any back wave that makes it up front will kill your response & volume... Just keep that back way separated and it'll be fine tho.

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[talnlnky]

Oh no. Don't get me wrong. Looking at it, there will be a pod. It's just going to vent into the sub frame from behind the woofer. You'll understand it when you see it.

I think I know what you're talking about.... i'm paranoid about backwaves.

[Alien Mantis]

I was sort of embarassed not having the entire thing done so that I could give auditions. Still, you guys have seen that I'm not just some poser. I really am trying to be the best sounding Yaris in the world.


Nobody thinks you are a poser.

You are doing some serious work to that Yaris.
I'm sure your results will be worth all the effort you are putting into it.

You may not win contests with it, but you will certainly have one of the best sounding Yarii on the street!

I love 4-way setups. Those 8's are sexy.
That competition system I heard at our local shop a long time ago was a 4-way system.
He had tweets, 4", 6.5", and four 10" subs on the rear deck in a ported enclosure. Cones and ports were on the deck.
The component speakers were in custom pods down at the front kick panels, angled upwards towards the listener.
Nothing in the doors, or A-pillars. Lots of dynamat. The car was an Olds Cutlass 4-4-2. Like an early 70's model.
I seem to remember he was using Clarion, Earthquake, Planet Audio, and some other brand I can't remember.
The one thing I do remember is: no matter how loud you cranked it, the sound was crystal clean. And those four 10's hit like a jackhammer in the chest.
Best system I ever heard. He used it primarily as a demonstrator for the shop. He was the shop manager/lead salesman.
I also remember he tore it all out, and did a totally different install not long afterwards. I never got to see or hear what he did next.

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[talnlnky]

May not win competitions you say? Oooohh! I beg to differ. Remember, this system is NOT finished by any means. I've got a ways to go. The biggest part will be the tuning. I've only touched a basic TA and have a flat EQ right now that hasn't been measured on an RTA. Thankfully I have the West coast teammates, Jim, and Justin to help me tune.

imma laugh my ass off if you come in 2nd place in the first two or three sq comps you go to (that have more than 3 people show up).

[Alien Mantis]

May not win competitions you say? Oooohh! I beg to differ. Remember, this system is NOT finished by any means.


All I meant was, even IF you don't win 1st place at competitions you enter, you should still be proud and satisfied with everything you have done.

You certainly have a good chance to do well in competition. You are using premium components, and you are taking the time to work out all the details.

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[derickveliz2]

And we have You, Taln, Alien, Herb, Kaotic, typicaljawaiian808 and MANY others here in YarisWold that make this site...

AWESOME

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[derickveliz2]

You know what's going to be awesome? Your hertz setup when you finish up!

Yeah! I know, there is something special about this little speaker...

:bow:http://www.hertzaudiovideo.com/file/3d/3d_hl70_eng.gif


can't wait....





.:thumbsup:

[Alien Mantis]

I'll just leave this here... try not to get too much drool on your monitor.

http://www.audison.eu/xml/products/pics/thesis_amp/thuno_1.jpg

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[Palmer812]

5 days with no posts. How's it coming?

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[derickveliz2]

Looks nice SQ,

What materials and where can I get to do something like that? not that I'm doing kick panels like you, but I'm trying to design the mids and tweets at the A pillars.

thanks!

(o:

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[bzinn 1]

I like your idea to build from under the kicks like that,good idea,will come out much easier to attach it all together......keep them pictures coming.

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[goku87]

Ha. I wanted to put some hornblasters in my yaris...

...I'll put them in my taco now lol.

p.s. that's the same fabric I used... i think. you get it from walmart?

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[talnlnky]

I'm back.... 2500 miles later.... Saw you got your kicks going... life is sooo much better with midbass.

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[bzinn 1]

Pictures or it didn't happen......lol

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[talnlnky]

Got the second kick going. I also bolstered the passenger's kick with some Lizard Skin on the inside. I also wired up the 2.9...all I need now is a remote wire relay for the amps...

Pics to come...

you know.... considering you're all sq and show quality and such... why not go with a transistor switch instead of a bosch relay? More reliable than mechanical relays. Just a thought.

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[bzinn 1]

This is looking great......thanks for the pictures of it going in.....it makes it easier to understand how much work is going into it.....lizard skin looks like it would go a long way.

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[Stove]

It's not going to look like this when you're done is it? :biggrin:
http://img85.imageshack.us/img85/7955/129137281851618585.jpg
Just kidding, looks like quite the project though.:w00t:

[talnlnky]

Anytime. Tomorrow I'll finish the other kickpod up AND seal up the original pod. I'm hearing tighter response from the sealed pod. I'll also mess with some wiring that is causing some panels to flex. I MAY, depending on time, get the sub enclosure working. If not tomorrow, it should be by Saturday. After that enclosure goes in, I'll be taking the long arduous steps of making panels, finishing the pillars and pods, and making the wiring all pretty. That will probably take a month. After that it's seat time. I can't wait to get this thing under the Auto EQ and Auto TA functions. I've got some massive glare in some upper frequencies. It's enough to make you cringe...even as off axis as I have those tweeters. Again, EQing and perhaps a dash mat will help that.

I can't imagine what these L1 Pro SEs would do on axis. I'd say just under the level of horn's abilities to make your ears bleed. There's just NO need for me to play them on axis, they've got GREAT sparkle at 45 degrees.

I've got a busy week. Testing for Yamhill County, interviews...

Good luck with the testing/interview process, I start next Tuesday.
I'm not surprised to hear you decided to go sealed, the tightness offered by sealing a midbass is awesome. I think there really are only two reasons why somebody shouldn't seal up a midbass...
1) The driver can't play the low stuff with much authority and needs the help of an IB enclosure
2) To make a sealed enclosure is just too much work in the given space/install.

You should also gain a bit of efficiency I'd think by going sealed, tho you will also get a slightly quicker rolloff (which doesn't matter cause you have a sub).

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[derickveliz2]

Incredible! one of a kind Yaris!

Do you get snow in the winter?

Congratulations on your new house, how is that working out?

D.

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[derickveliz2]

.

Just staring at this picture "SOUNDS GOOD"!!! :thumbsup:

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww203/sqcomp/2007%20Toyota%20Yaris%20S/CIMG1954.jpg

.
(O:


.

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[Alien Mantis]

I sound like I'm talking about the Death Star!


As much time and money as you have wrapped up in this system, you could have built a DeathStar!

:biggrin:

Just kidding.
It's looking really sweet. I can't wait to see how you finish the trunk.
( I had a feeling you were gonna polyfil that sub enclosure, cuz it looks kinda smallish to me, for that size sub )

Did you just remove the rear deck stock speakers to use as your cabin ports?
Or did you make a custom rear deck back there?

[talnlnky]

I hope you deadened the fuck out of that rear deck.

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[talnlnky]

I did remove the back speakers. I REALLY like how the midbass is able to bring all the bass (including the sub bass) all up front. I know how people say that you can't localize sub bass...but you can, especially if you've got a poorly setup/staged system.
If you got a great SQ sub with no harmonic distortion, and no resonating panels in your car you can't.... but how many people can say that?

Taln...

DUDE! You're going to LOVE the lack of vibration in the entire car! I was so suprised on how dead the car is. When you see it next, you'll have to take a gander at the bottom of the rear deck. The top is almost untouched. The bottom is a different story. A layer or two of roadkill and some 1/2" Dynaliner around the OEM speaker mounts. I'll have to reserve my judgement until all the interior is back in...still, it seems like it's all about cabin gain for me. The gain is as low as I can have it, it's not overwhelming at all. That being said, the bass is authoritative and clean. I'll be performing the auto EQ and TA this week. I've had to dial down the midbass. That's pretty much about it. We'll see what an RTA says.
DIAL DOWN MIDBASS... what a sin... how bout EQing in a 10dB boost at 100hz? hehe.

I look forward to it.

EDIT: Tell scott to put binding posts on those speakers... I hate quick connect terminals. Give me the cool binding post terminals that use a hex screw.

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[Alien Mantis]

The midbass backed up by the sub? Oh MAN! Surgical is the word.

My favorite systems are 4-way systems.

Are you going to track down and kill that external rattle?
Would that effect your performance in a competition, or do the judges only judge the sound INSIDE the vehicle?

Just curious.

[talnlnky]

My favorite systems are 4-way systems.

Are you going to track down and kill that external rattle?
Would that effect your performance in a competition, or do the judges only judge the sound INSIDE the vehicle?

Just curious.

as long as they don't hear the rattle inside the car he's fine.

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