5 Spd to 6 Spd Conversion DIY

[Bluevitz-rs]

This is a DIY on how to convert the stock C150 5-Spd (Echo) to the close ratio C160 6-Spd.

Detail on this conversion would still apply to the Yaris transmission.

Unfortunately the C160 I purchased does not have the optional LSD, but the price was right, so I got it. There is also a possibility of swapping the lower ratio .815 5th gear out of the 5-Spd in place of the 6th gear's .725 in the 6-Spd. This would make the RPM even higher in 6th and would only be recommended for racing purposes only. The stock gearing in the 6-Spd has increased RPMs @ 100km/h from 2600 to 2950.

You need to make slight modifications to the frame in order to clear the end of the transmission, as it's longer for the extra gear and an extra bearing, though the modifications to the frame of the Yaris might be different, or not needed at all. I don't have a Yaris, so I can't be sure. This was relatively simple to do with a cutoff wheel on my angle grinder and MIG welder.

Here (http://www.fatboyraceworks.com/gears/index.php?MaxRPM=6500&TireDiameter=22.46&GearRatio1=3.555&GearRatio2=1.904&GearRatio3=1.310&GearRatio4=0.969&GearRatio5=0.815&GearRatio6=&FinalDrive=3.526&TireWidth=205&TireAspect=40&RimDiameter=16&MaxRPM_2=6500&TireDiameter_2=22.46&GearRatio1_2=3.166&GearRatio2_2=2.050&GearRatio3_2=1.481&GearRatio4_2=1.166&GearRatio5_2=0.916&GearRatio6_2=0.725&FinalDrive_2=4.529&TireWidth_2=205&TireAspect_2=40&RimDiameter_2=16&Calculate=Calculate%2FGraph&Compare=1) is a graph to illustrate the speed differences between the two transmissions.



The Main Gear Housing
I'll start with a side by side comparison shot.
The Echo's C150 on Left and the C160 on Right.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3492.jpg

Inside the C150
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3493.jpg

Inside the C160
Notice the extra gusseting under 1st gear.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3494.jpg

Slight differences in the top of the cases. There's an extra hole on the top of the C160. Its only and oil fill hole, but the shifter mechanism is slightly longer.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3495.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3496.jpg

The Bell Housing
C160 on Left and C150 on Right
The only swap needed is to the reverse gear arms and shaft. All of the bearings are the same size. I measured both input and output shafts and they're identical.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3497.jpg

The C160.
The only noticeable difference is the notch for oil flow to the reverse gear idler shaft hole.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3498.jpg

The C150
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3499.jpg

The End Cover

There are major differences here. It's much longer because it contains an extra gear and bearing support.
Also, you NEED the Puller B Set from Toyota in order to properly pull the gears off, plus a steering wheel puller and studs for the No.3 clutch assy.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3501.jpg

My Clutch after 70,000Km. Looking really good
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3511.jpg

My Fidanza Flywheel and Celica GTS clutch and cover
Also note the frame before modification.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3513.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

Frame Modification

Here you can see what needs to be done to the frame.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3514.jpg

After cutting, hammer the frame back together and Weld.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3515.jpg

And the "D" shaped piece that was cut out.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3518.jpg

Frame welded and some white primer (that wouldn't spray LOL).
After welding, I sprayed the inside of the frame heavily with oil rustproofing.
The outside of the weld was prepped with rust neutralizer, primer and I finished it off with black asphalt undercoating. (not pictured)
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3523.jpg

Assembling the Transmission
All of the gears need to be pulled from the Case and placed into the Bell Housing.
The reverse idler gear shaft needs to be unbolted from the case and oriented into the bell housing for reassembly once the case is put back on.
(Sorry, no pictures of this procedure)

Fully Assembled

(Not pictured is the Neutral Idler Arm)
The neutral idler arm became and bend and fit process until the proper travel was achieved for the shifter inside the car. Unfortunately the arm was already bent when I opened the box after delivery, so I don't know if a stock arm would have worked or not.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3522.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3519.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3520.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3521.jpg

Gear Shift Return Spring

There's a neutral return spring that needs to be removed and/or modified for proper shifting.

I'm sure the same thing would need to be done in the Yaris.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3526.jpg

I did all modifications myself, in my garage. The hardest part of the whole precess is getting the transmission up and back onto the motor. That requires the help of someone else. The transmission weighs about 60-70lbs, so lifting it into place is nearly impossible to do on your back.

One thing I would recommend when buying a used transmission with unknown millage is a COMPLETE teardown. I'm kicking myself now for not doing this as there's a slight click going into 4th and slight vibration in the shifter. I just switched from cheap break-in oil back to Castroil Full Synthetic 75W-90. The cheap oil was used to clean out the crud and was only used for 100km. It came out pretty dark, so it did it's job. Gear 5 and 6 and their synchronizers were both wiped clean while they were off and shift like butter.

If you have any Q's that need A's, post up.

Bluevitz. :thumbsup:

Update: I did a bit more tweaking to the bottom of the shifter so it doesn't pull back as far for gears 2-4-6. I just pulled the lever out and bent the bottom with the torch. I also put a couple of bends into the Neutral Return Spring. It centres between 3-4 with more authority now. If left stock (the spring is normally straight) it fights the transmission to pull the lever in between 1-2. It worked fine without the spring, but feels better with it in.
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ%20C160%20Conversion/DSC_3544.jpg

[ddongbap]

I was just thinking about this today. So this probably means the 2zz needs the same frame notch. Probably.

Btw, you're insane. Gj.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Wow. Awesome!

[Betrivent]

Damn you're in ontario, I'd totally pay you to do this for me :P

[rob323]

:clap:Good stuff :wink:. I have about a million questions for you, but here's a couple to start off with:
1 Are the mounts in the same place on the C160?
2 Any mods required to the shifter cable ends or to the throw of the cables to prevent over selecting etc?
3 Why do you remove the neutral return spring?
4 When you change gear at redline in 1st, what revs does it drop to in 2nd?
5 Do you re-use the factory echo driveshafts?
6 Is the C160 diff an 8 bolt diff?
7 Did you have to re-shim anything?
8 Did you use any of the C150 bellhousing or casings or is it all C160 that's in there?

:wub: I'll stop there for now.

Cheers,
Rob.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Damn you're in ontario, I'd totally pay you to do this for me :P

I've driven from Calgary back home, and it's a far enough drive. LOL, at least 3 days from Richmond

[Bluevitz-rs]

:clap:Good stuff :wink:. I have about a million questions for you, but here's a couple to start off with:
1 Are the mounts in the same place on the C160?
2 Any mods required to the shifter cable ends or to the throw of the cables to prevent over selecting etc?
3 Why do you remove the neutral return spring?
4 When you change gear at redline in 1st, what revs does it drop to in 2nd?
5 Do you re-use the factory echo driveshafts?
6 Is the C160 diff an 8 bolt diff?
7 Did you have to re-shim anything?
8 Did you use any of the C150 bellhousing or casings or is it all C160 that's in there?

:wub: I'll stop there for now.

Cheers,
Rob.

1. Yeah, the mounts are all in stock locations.
2. You don't have to modify the cables, but you do need to play around with the angle at which neutral arm is on the transmission in order to be able to select all the gears. R is beside 1st.
3. Because of where neutral naturally fall between 3rd and 4th. With the spring in there it wants to pull neutral between 1st and 2nd. Not good when you pull out of 5th looking for 4th and you get 2nd instead. :eek:
4. I haven't really checked yet, but it somewhere in the area of 4600-4800. (I'm eventually going to make a video pulling onto the hyw so I can see what the RPMs are actually doing.)
5. Yes.
6. Yes. Prime for various LSDs.
7. No.
8. Yes, the entire C150 Bell Housing is used. The only swap is to the reverse arm and shafts pictured. The rest is C160. They both mate together perfectly with locating dowels.

I think this would be killer in the rally car. But you'd definitely want to find one with an LSD.

[rob323]

That's what I'm thinking. I already have this sitting at home waiting for the right gearbox to put it in.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e154/rob323vr4/ghecho/IMG_418512.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

Will that one for the Echo's axles?

Do you know what model car it was intended for?

[rob323]

TRD Part No. 41301-AW004
Suits Vitz, Starlets, Corollas, Levins etc.
Suits 8 bolt ring gears.
http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_lsd_mechanical.html

[Bluevitz-rs]

Ah yes. It would fit.

[rob323]

7. No.
8. Yes, the entire C150 Bell Housing is used.

Once you swapped it over onto the C150 bell housing, did you recheck the preloads?

[Bluevitz-rs]

Once you swapped it over onto the C150 bell housing, did you recheck the preloads?

No i didn't. I probably should have but nothing is whining or making any noise, so I think I'm ok.

I was kinda pressed for time as I needed my car. The only problem there seems to be is with 4th gear when the transmission is still cold. I think the syncro is a little rooted. Once it warms up it shifts much better. Also, it doesn't grind or anything, even when shifting hard @ redline. It just has a click when you pull it into gear and a slight vibration in the shifter.

But in your case, if you have the time to work on both transmissions out of the car it would be a really good idea to go over EVERYTHING, like a rebuild should be done.

[thebarber]

amazing. very nice work.

[zachryboles]

yah i was thinking if anyone would actually do this lately and its nice to see its being considered. All we need to see now is that matched with the 2zz motor.

[Bluevitz-rs]

yah i was thinking if anyone would actually do this lately and its nice to see its being considered. All we need to see now is that matched with the 2zz motor.

I shouldn't be all that hard. The 2ZZ uses a single pulley with one huge belt to run all the accessories, but the whole motor (from the surface the transmission bolts to) is wider by about 1". So on the echo at least, you'd need to cut about .5" thick portion of the frame away to clear the pulley and belt. Then you'd need the C60 and C160 transmissions to swap bell housings like as if you were doing it to the 1NZ in order for the axles to fit. Or just have custom inner CV joints put on the stock axles and use the C60. Which is probably cheaper.

Then I'm not sure if you'd need a custom header fabbed up and custom exhaust. One plus on the Yaris is that it uses electric PS, so you wouldn't need to worry about plumbing the PS pump and could delete it from the motor. Next, plumbing the A/C is optional but shouldn't present any issues.

Last, wire it all up. Chances are the most of the Yaris wiring will plug in, but if you're going to all the trouble of installing this engine you might as well use the 2ZZ harness.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Here's a Video uploaded to YouTube (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNb5-Y3vPqE).

Enjoy :drinking:

[H3LlIoN]

Eh. Sweet write up. I'm def interested in this, but I am having serious difficulty sourcing the c160. Been looking for an LSD one, but can't even find the regular!

[rob323]

A few more q's.

Did it throw your speedo out?

What are the chances of using the gearset minus 6th gear (just 1st to 5th) and installing it and the diff into the C150 housings (or if the centre housing is the same, just use the C150 end housing and bell housing)?

[Bluevitz-rs]

I used the speed gears from the C160. There was only a 1 tooth difference that make the speedo read slightly slower than stock, witch in my case is better as I run slightly smaller tires than stock. But I haven't compared it to my GPS yet.

And gears 1-5 would not work in the C150. Half of First gear is part of one of the input or output shafts, I can't remember. And 5th gear tops out at about 165km/h.

[rob323]

And gears 1-5 would not work in the C150. Half of First gear is part of one of the input or output shafts
Is the shaft itself too long to fit in the C150 housing?

And 5th gear tops out at about 165km/h.
Which is pretty much perfect for what I want.:cry:

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah, as you can see in the pictures I took, the input and output shafts are longer to accommodate 6th gear.

It really isn't a big deal to modify the frame to fit the whole transmission in.

[rob323]

I know, but our rules for rally cars state:
3.4 Transmission:
(i) Clutch: The clutch assembly is free provided that the original type of operation is retained.
(ii) Gearbox: The gearbox (and the number of ratios) is free, save for the following:
• no modifications may be made to any bodywork to accommodate a gearbox, save for the drilling of holes to
support components, or to facilitate the fitting of the gear change mechanism;

[Bluevitz-rs]

You could protest the fact that the rule says "body work" because the work needs to be done to the frame.

Or you could do the modification, grind the welds down smooth, re-paint it and make it look like it came that way from factory. I know if I was re-painting mine factory blue you never know I did anything to it. I used a rubber dead blow hammer to pound the metal in place so there's no dints, just a smooth curve and no seams.

[rob323]

Nah, it's not worth the argument. The over riding rule is that you are NOT allowed to change anything unless specifically stated. In other words, it says I can change the transmission, but it doesn't say that I can change the chassis.:frown: Can't win.

[Mrhiguy]

So you're saying that the C160 Transmission accepted all the Original Echo motor mount brackets and locations?

[Bluevitz-rs]

So you're saying that the C160 Transmission accepted all the Original Echo motor mount brackets and locations?

The only mount bolted to C160 parts is the front one. the rear one is bolted to C150 parts. Nothing was modified to make it work.

[Mrhiguy]

Do you guys think the Final drive could swap over from a c150 to a c160?

[Bluevitz-rs]

Do you guys think the Final drive could swap over from a c150 to a c160?

Not a chance. The F/D is part of the output shaft.

[Mrhiguy]

Not a chance. The F/D is part of the output shaft.

But is it possible to pull the gears off the output shaft?

[Bluevitz-rs]

But is it possible to pull the gears off the output shaft?

Absolutely. That's the only way to do the swap.

The reason you can't swap them is because one caries 5 gears, and the other caries 6. Also, the C160 has an 8 bolt diff and the C150 is a 6 bolt. There would be no point in putting in the diff from the C150. It would defeat the purpose of the close ratio 6 speed.

[Mrhiguy]

Absolutely. That's the only way to do the swap.

The reason you can't swap them is because one caries 5 gears, and the other caries 6. Also, the C160 has an 8 bolt diff and the C150 is a 6 bolt. There would be no point in putting in the diff from the C150. It would defeat the purpose of the close ratio 6 speed.

The reason for my question is the idea to use the 6 speed as a better daily driver. Because putting in the 3.526 F/D ratio to the c160 would give it a great o/d 6th gear to keep the revs low but still retain a close to stock 1-5.

Exmple: with 205/55/16 wheels
GEAR=------------------1-------2--------3--------4--------5----------6
c160 with 4.5 FD= 14.9 __ 23.1__ 31.9__ 40.6__ 51.6___ 65.3 @ 3000RPM
C160 with 3.5 FD= 19.2 __29.6__ 41.0__ 52.1__ 66.3___ 83.8 @ 3000RPM
c150 stock3.5 FD= 17.1 __31.9__ 46.4__ 62.7__ 71.7 _______ @ 3000RPM

[rob323]

With the 3.5 final drive, the engine would be far too low in the revs when cruising at 60 mph and probably use more fuel because of the lack of power available at those revs.

[Mrhiguy]

With the 3.5 final drive, the engine would be far too low in the revs when cruising at 60 mph and probably use more fuel because of the lack of power available at those revs.

Then just keep it in 5th gear. Here in the states we drive 65-75mph Average even though the speed limits are generally 65-70 mph.

Plus if 3.5 is too low for you. You can get a final drive from a 4 door Echo c150 with a F/D of 3.850.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah, but even at those speeds I still found the 5 speed was revving too low. The 6 speed as it comes make the engine work far less to accelerate the car under normal driving conditions. I'm still getting the same millage I did before the swap, maybe even a little better, if I could keep from driving it hard. My last tank yielded me 685km on 42.8L of fuel, driving on mostly back roads with hills and corners.

[rob323]

By ending up with taller gearing in each gear, all you do is make the car into a slug (more so). You lose the "close ratio" benefits of the C160 box.
Peak torque is developed between 4200 and 4400 rpm (depending on engine) so ideally, they are the revs you want to be doing while cruising for max economy.

[Mrhiguy]

UPDATED WITH 3.8 FD

Exmple: with 205/55/16 wheels
GEAR=------------------1-------2--------3--------4--------5----------6
c160 with 4.5 FD= 14.9 __ 23.1__ 31.9__ 40.6__ 51.6___ 65.3 @ 3000RPM
C160 with 3.5 FD= 19.2 __29.6__ 41.0__ 52.1__ 66.3___ 83.8 @ 3000RPM
c160 with 3.8 FD= 17.6 __27.1__ 37.6__ 47.7__ 60.8___ 76.8 @ 3000RPM
c150 stock3.5 FD= 17.1 __31.9__ 46.4__ 62.7__ 71.7 _______ @ 3000RPM

[Mrhiguy]

Ok well just a thought.

I guess I have to go back to the books on gear ratios. I figured if the end mph @ a certain rpm matched. Then It wouldn't matter the gear to final ratio.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Well, unless you can do precision machining and grinding, to remanufacture the output shaft with a different final drive gear on the end of it, there are no other options that I'm aware of.

All you can do is put on bigger 17 or 18" tires and put the speed sending unit from the Matrix XRS C60. That would get you close to the F/D you're looking for.

[carlosh]

Hi, I'm researching, the C60 transmission (toyota MR2 2003-2007, 6 speed) fit in my echo 2004.
Anyone have a feedback about that?

MR2 and echo sharing some platform or parts.

[rob323]

The earlier MR2's (SW20) had the gear selector arms on the other side of the box. I don't know if they changed that in the newer MR2's but it would definately be worth investigating, otherwise you will have to swap that around.

Also check to see if the holes for the transmission mount are existing in the C60, if they aren't, but the thickened casting ribs are there,then at least you can drill and tap them to suit (which I had to do on my C56 box to make it work).

[Bluevitz-rs]

Hi, I'm researching, the C60 transmission (toyota MR2 2003-2007, 6 speed) fit in my echo 2004.
Anyone have a feedback about that?

MR2 and echo sharing some platform or parts.

Yeah I'm pretty sure the shifting arms on the MR2 C60 are on the opposite side. Also, the reason I didn't use a C60 in my conversion is because the axles used are bigger than the Echo. So you'd need custom axles too. The C160 is the one to look for.

[rob323]

Stock Echo axles fit in a C56 or C52 as well. But to save all the stuffing around I had to do to get the C56 to work, I would just get a C160 and mod the subframe to suit like Bluevitz did.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Wow, looking back, this was TOTALLY worth it. I love the ratios of the 6 speed driving around town. This was my number one on the the wish list of mods to my car, and I've had it for over a year now.

[rob323]

They should have come from the factory like this!

[Bluevitz-rs]

They only thing I'd change as a factory transmission is a 4.2FD instead of the 4.5. 1st gear is nearly useless unless you're on a hill or want to take off like there's a MAC truck barreling up your A$$.

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

Nice write up and build. Mad props.

[cali yaris]

or want to take off like there's a MAC truck barreling up your A$$.

Oh... you mean the way I normally drive. :biggrin:

[Bluevitz-rs]

Garm, this should be on your to do list.

[CrankyOldMan]

Dredging up this old thing again, I'm curious about why the Toyota B Puller set is required. Is that something that could be rented from an auto parts store? $1500 for the actual thing is a bit steep for a DIY project.

[cali yaris]

^ good timing, I'm starting on this next week.

[CrankyOldMan]

I scored that used xB transmission from scioncrew. It's arriving Monday. Looks like at least one more trip to Harborfreight is in order.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I borrowed the puller set from my local dealer because I had the option to. The puller is specifically designed for disassembling the transmission. Only thing I needed to fab up was a trio of studs. I'll take a picture. You can use any pullers you'd like, just make sure they're not going to chip the teeth on the gears.

[Bluevitz-rs]

These are the studs I had to fab up. The ones I had weren't long enough so I had to weld a bolt onto each.

[CrankyOldMan]

Wouldn't it have been easier to just get some threaded rod and cut it to length?

[Bluevitz-rs]

not really when your transmission is sitting on a bench in pieces. LOL

edit: it took me a whole of 5 minutes to flip the welder on and then grind and wire wheel them, so...

[rob323]

I borrowed the puller set from my local dealer because I had the option to. The puller is specifically designed for disassembling the transmission. Only thing I needed to fab up was a trio of studs. I'll take a picture. You can use any pullers you'd like, just make sure they're not going to chip the teeth on the gears.

I chipped the teeth on one of the gears on my old box trying to remove it. There is bugger all room under the gear to get the legs of the puller in there.
A bit of creative grinding on a puller might let you get under there easier without damaging the teeth.

PS, zip ties don't work
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e154/rob323vr4/ghecho/IMG_7222001.jpg

[johnny_vitz]

^I remember that pic... :clap:
lol

[CrankyOldMan]

I chipped the teeth on one of the gears on my old box trying to remove it. There is bugger all room under the gear to get the legs of the puller in there.


So you used a standard bearing puller like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/large-bearing-separator-3979.html) or a 3-jaw puller like this (http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-three-jaw-puller-set-32184.html)?

[CrankyOldMan]

I didn't take pics of my C56 when I was tearing it down, but the 5th gear hub can be removed with a standard "bolt puller" or steering wheel puller set. The two holes in the hub should have M8x1.25 threads. Once you get the hub off, you can get a bearing separator on the upper groove of the 5th driven gear. Once that comes off, the 5th gear just slides off (it's on roller bearings). I'll try to remember to get one of the kids to take a pic of the C59 teardown.

[CrankyOldMan]

So I was looking at the frame today when I changed my oil, and it looks like it's already notched the way bluevitz-RS did with his. I can't tell from the pictures, but it looks like the Vitz frame is/was square first, based on the shape of the cut off piece. Perhaps there really is hope for the NCP91 frame and a C60?

[Bluevitz-rs]

Just measure the gap between the stock tranny and the frame. That'll let you know if it'll fit or not. I added about 1" of room. When I first put the 6 speed on the motor and tried to get it up into position, it JUST hit the frame by about 1/4 inch or less.

[CrankyOldMan]

So it was originally notched, but you added more room? I would have taken a pic, but I didn't have a camera on me.

[Bluevitz-rs]

No it was square.

[CrankyOldMan]

Hmm, Now if I could just get my hands on the end cap for a C60...

[Maitre_Te_Te]

I think that all it's fine because an TS can have 1.8L with an other tranny!
Than the engine bay is larger than echo for this engine! I wait your reply.

[CrankyOldMan]

The Euro T-sport 6-speed uses the EC6X series transmission with the 1.8L 2ZR-FE engine, which is a two piece casing instead of the C-series three piece design. I would guess that the gears are also narrower than the C5X/C6X series, but I'd have to have them side-by-side to verify. The gear shift cable is also unique to the Euro T-Sport, as are the mounting brackets that mate with the body (the engine/transmission side of the mounts are the same as the xD).

Avensis 6-speed gearbox (Euro):
http://www.hillsmotorparts.co.uk/ebay_images/large/334979.jpg

Corolla 5-speed gearbox (US):
http://i.ebayimg.com/t/85-86-87-TOYOTA-MR2-MANUAL-TRANSMISSION-5-SPEED-/00/$(KGrHqV,!h0E2JiBZMBcBNuetYbqU!~~_3.JPG

[10 Francis]

Possibly getting a little off-topic, but does anyone have a comparison of the stock NCP91 5-speed to a JDM AE92 Corolla 5-speed (C52?), and know if it will fit?

[Jason@SportsCar]

Possibly getting a little off-topic, but does anyone have a comparison of the stock NCP91 5-speed to a JDM AE92 Corolla 5-speed (C52?), and know if it will fit?

Seems like an odd swap. The C52 has a taller 1st gear and marginally shorter final drive, the rest of the ratios are the same as the Yaris C50. :iono:

[Hussain-Vtec]

Thanks for your contribution, Great info!

I am thinking To Get a C160 LSD trans from UAE It's Available, Next Visit i will get one for my Echo i have a Question Dose the C160 transmission have a Code name on it?

The reason for my Qes is @ United Arab Emirates I No the Cars that carry the C160 trans but the thing is I have to buy the whole half cut car for the trans only, thy wont sell you the trans only.

I just buy Full Apex'e Coilovers for my Echo on the last visit.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I couldn't find any markings on the transmission that defined it other than it's physical size difference to the 5 spd. When I got it, I didn't know if it was LSD or not. And it wasn't. I just used the info on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_C_transmission#C160)

[Hussain-Vtec]

I couldn't find any markings on the transmission that defined it other than it's physical size difference to the 5 spd. When I got it, I didn't know if it was LSD or not. And it wasn't. I just used the info on Wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_C_transmission#C160)

OH I see i No the wikipedia info.
But the thing is i need the code to find it easy, there are allot gears sitting over There and that will take my time to search for it and i have a to get some part's
for a friends and to buy a car too that is the case.:confused:

[Hussain-Vtec]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/slickae92red/Operation%20Wiretuck%204AGE%2020%20Valve%20Blackto p%206-speed/IMG_5193.jpg?t=1254635140

OK i find this Code do you have it on your transmission, Note the number is 12 which means C160 (6-speed).

On the Wikipedia site it says (Transmission with identification code ending with 12C are LSD equipped. Code ending with 12A are non-LSD).
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toyota_C_transmission#C160

C160 ratio info.
http://i149.photobucket.com/albums/s66/ofunstarlet/c160.jpg

[Bluevitz-rs]

cool, I never noticed that there, I'll have to look on mine. I take it that's on top?

Actually, if that's on the bell housing, I don't have that anymore. It was sold with the rest of the 5 spd a long time ago.

[Hussain-Vtec]

Some Search TRANSAXLE ASSY part no..

TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL ( 30300‑1A260 ) C160-12C LSD
1999 TOYOTA LEVIN (AE111-ACFVF) LVN BZR JPN CP 4AGE MTM 6F
Link
http://autoconnectioninc.net/DaCart/product_info.php?products_id=8093

http://autoconnectioninc.net/DaCart/images/diag_Zsv4s.png?osCsid=j96jtqf086ilojmiplfcjv5or3

30300-1A260 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..BZR ***6-speed***

30300-1A250 TRANSAXLE ASSY, MANUAL 01.04.1997-01.08.2000 AE111..BZG..6F

41301-12041 CASE, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE11#..MTM..(BZG,FZ,XZ)

41301-12190 CASE, FRONT DIFFERENTIAL 01.05.1995-01.08.2000 AE111..MTM..(BZR,BZV) ***LSD? ***

[EchoLaQua]

Dude I've been searching for ages trying to find the C160.
I have come accross a few but they dont look the same as yours :confused: :help:

They all say in their ad that they're a C160 but Im not convinced. They look completely different. Could it be the year model? What did yours come out of?

I've attached some images, yours is the one with 3 question marks, the other is one I have foung elsewhere (1 question mark).

Also here is a link to another one on ebay (http://www.ebay.ie/itm/JDM-Toyota-Corolla-Levin-Trueno-AE111-C160-LSD-6-Speed-Gearbox-/271364379298#ht_783wt_1114). I get that its sold but it looks different too?

:iono:

[Bluevitz-rs]

Mine is pictured re-assembled with the 5 spd bell housing on it. You did read the thread right?

[RJay]

Hmm, all of those gears minus the 1st are longer than in my 5 spd, but that 6th does look nice.....

[Bluevitz-rs]

Every gear is shorter than the 5 spd with the 4.5 final. I regularly use 2nd to start because 1st is so short.

[RJay]

So, if you've got an open gearbox anyway when replacing it, can't you drop out a gear or get a different one? My first gear is rather nice, goes to about 30 mp/h.
Shift to 5th at 100-105 mp/h though, so not too bad :)

[Bluevitz-rs]

The gears as far as I know are not interchangeable. 5th gear in the 6 spd only goes about 145-150km/h and has the engine turning around 4100 rpm at 100km/h. Not ideal for every day use.

[RJay]

No, that's a bit obnoxios indeed. I do 4000 rpm at 117 km/h GPS (so about 125-130ish clock) and 3500 rpm at 103/104 gps in 5th.
Never got to the v-max yet, I call game over after I've hit 63k in 3, 68k in 4 and then shift to 5th.
'cause honestly, all that does is increase the bill you get from the state. ;)

[CrankyOldMan]

The gears as far as I know are not interchangeable. 5th gear in the 6 spd only goes about 145-150km/h and has the engine turning around 4100 rpm at 100km/h. Not ideal for every day use.

In theory the gears from 3rd to 5th could be interchanged if the shafts have the right splines, but 6th gear would require some investigation. If you need to drop the freeway RPMs in 5th gear, get a 5th gear set from an '03 Matrix C59 gearbox. Most of the 5-speed gearboxes have a 0.815:1 5th gear, but both the 5- and 6-speed gearboxes from that gen matrix have a 0.725:1 5th/6th gear respectively.

At this point, the only way to know for sure with the other gears is to get the parts and see if they fit.

[Godfryness]

Great thread, I am really looking to do this with my gen 1 xB. I have a Yaris FD and wish it would swap over. But it looks like the 6th gear is about 200-250rpm lower then my 5th now so that should help some.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Minor update

After going Boosted, I changed the gear lube to Royal Purple 75w-90 and it fix any problems I had with 4th gear.

I now wish I had an option to swap in a lower ratio Final Drive as I have so much torque now on the highway to save even more fuel. Average is 6.0-6.3L/100km

[xnamerxx]

There is a lower final drive available for the c60 but good luck finding one, it was used on european mr2 spyders. I believe the final drive is 4.3.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I've seen the options but nothing available in North America. Monkey Wrench Racing sells them and actually I can go to a 3.9:1 but the cost for me with exchange rate is way more than my whole transmission.

[thebarber]

I know a guy that has a link to euro c60's with high FD and LSD...$1000-ish, iirc

[Bluevitz-rs]

:eek:

Yeah my C160 no LSD was $600 CND

The 4.5FD was perfect for NA application but with the turbo it just revs unnecessarily high.

[thebarber]

Sorry, I meant lower FD... I want to say 3.9

[Bluevitz-rs]

:thumbsup:Sorry, I meant lower FD... I want to say 3.9

[thebarber]

Is there a good/easy way to swap out 5th in an echo for something that'd net lower highway rpms? Will the 0.729 from a c60 fit in a C150 from an echo?

[Bluevitz-rs]

I'm not sure on that one. The Echo already has the lowest highway RPM I'm pretty sure with its .815 5th and 3.5FD

You'd have to see if there's any 5 spd gearboxes with the lower 5th. I think the spot where 6th goes is a different Ø

[thebarber]

C53 and c59 have .725 5th gears...

[Bluevitz-rs]

Chances are pretty good that it'll fit, but you won't know for sure until you're holding them both in your hand.

[ArmstrongRacing]

This is an awesome project and I bet it is a blast to drive! But after doing the gear shift drop calculation, you can see the 6600 redline will lead to a LOT of shifting.

[Gorilla]

Hi Guys,

Im thinking about buying a C160 with Factory LSD from the AE111.

My Echi is equipped with the C154, but noted BlueVitz you had the C150??

Also is your dash Digital? Any issues with that?

I was looking for a C56 from the Japanese Vitz but they seem harder to find!

[Bluevitz-rs]

Hi Guys,

Im thinking about buying a C160 with Factory LSD from the AE111.

My Echi is equipped with the C154, but noted BlueVitz you had the C150??This shouldn’t make any difference. All C series bell housing are interchangeable.

Also is your dash Digital? Any issues with that?No, I have the analog dash with tach.

I was looking for a C56 from the Japanese Vitz but they seem harder to find!

What chassis are doing the conversion in?

[saikouguy]

He has an Echo like yours NCP13 Australian Model