So many questions...

[ChinoCharles]

OK, so I'm finally fed up with watching my power window kit gather dust. I busted it out and was surprised at how simple the install seemed. I got my doors off (for those of you who will take your stock window crank off in the future, watch the metal ring!) and tested fitment and all that fun stuff, and everything looks good. I even did a dry run of the wiring outside of the car. I will admit I don't know shizzle when it comes to ICE, so I figured I'd ask a few questions here, since you guys are the experts. :thumbup:

[1] Where should I connect the power? It says to connect to a source that is ignition-controlled, but everyone I talk to says to just find an empty fuse slot or add a fuse. The kit says it has inline fuses, so I don't know if that is necessary. This is REALLY where I become lost.

[2] What is the black goop holding the door skin on, and can I replace this or should I just use electrical tape and call it a day?

[3] I have to extend the wires on the driver's side motor about ten-fold. Is there anything I should worry about considering the increased current travel?

[4] Where can I get replacement switches for my kit to fit in the stock slots for the switches under the hand brake?

Any answers to any of these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys! :bow:

[the_saint]

I'm nota know it all, but I'll give a couple of your ?s a shot.

[2] I've always found it to be gooey enought to leave it as is...just stick the plastic back up to it and it should stick. I would imagine electrical tape will lose it's adhesive before the end of next summer & curl up or fall off...probably leaving gooey crap in the glass...that will get stuck in the window felt and leave gooey track on the glass forever. lol

[4] try ebay. I'm sure there are multiple Toyota models that use the same switch...if you can't find it on there just go to the stealership. Or if you're ruthless and sneaky, steal then out of somebody elses car. BUt prepare to make enemies if you do the latter.

[ChinoCharles]

[bump]

Lengthened the motor wires just now... 18 gague wire rated at 300 volts (I think it can handle 12 haha) and insulated snap connectors just like the ones that came with the kit.

[W.A.S.P]

OK, so I'm finally fed up with watching my power window kit gather dust. I busted it out and was surprised at how simple the install seemed. I got my doors off (for those of you who will take your stock window crank off in the future, watch the metal ring!) and tested fitment and all that fun stuff, and everything looks good. I even did a dry run of the wiring outside of the car. I will admit I don't know shizzle when it comes to ICE, so I figured I'd ask a few questions here, since you guys are the experts. :thumbup:

[1] Where should I connect the power? It says to connect to a source that is ignition-controlled, but everyone I talk to says to just find an empty fuse slot or add a fuse. The kit says it has inline fuses, so I don't know if that is necessary. This is REALLY where I become lost.

[2] What is the black goop holding the door skin on, and can I replace this or should I just use electrical tape and call it a day?

[3] I have to extend the wires on the driver's side motor about ten-fold. Is there anything I should worry about considering the increased current travel?

[4] Where can I get replacement switches for my kit to fit in the stock slots for the switches under the hand brake?

Any answers to any of these would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance guys! :bow:


Charles, I might be able to help you since I did my power conversion a while ago using the MES door lock kit and the Colibri Window kit from A1Electric. You will know by opening the packages and sorting out the parts that you really need, that it is a very simple and easy installation. It takes time the first time, but once you figure out where everything is going to be it becomes simple. I am about to do two more Yaris and a Dodge Caravan, it's that easy and fun! $$$$$ :thumbup:

I will try to answer your questions now:

1) I had your same problem, but upon removing the steering wheel cover I found the wires that I needed for my hook up, you will see. Have a tester handy.

2) Don't worry about the plastic, just stick it back on.

3) Again, nothing to worry there, but why are you extending the wires anyway?

4) I thought about using the same location for the switches, but I decided to make it look as stock as possible and attached them to the door panel. Replacements can be found at www.a1electric.com

Check out my thread with pictures of the parts: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2146

[ChinoCharles]

Thanks WASP. Your install looks good. About the wires on the motor, because of the length of the harness and the placement of the switches I had to lengthen the wires so they would extend from the driver side door all the way to the center console underneath the shifter. I want the switches center mounted because [1] I have no other use for the empty slots, and [2] it is the easiest alternative. Less wiring. It will look clean as hell.

PM sent WASP

[W.A.S.P]

Thanks WASP. Your install looks good. About the wires on the motor, because of the length of the harness and the placement of the switches I had to lengthen the wires so they would extend from the driver side door all the way to the center console underneath the shifter. I want the switches center mounted because [1] I have no other use for the empty slots, and [2] it is the easiest alternative. Less wiring. It will look clean as hell.

PM sent WASP

Charles, try to send that PM again, I didn't get it! :frown: :iono:

[ChinoCharles]

Will do

[ChinoCharles]

OK, stumbled across this tonight...

http://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/diagram.asp?ModelID=19772&MakeID=2&link=BULLDOG

So when I found it I yanked the wiring diagram from my window kit and started comparing. The diagram says...

Red Wire = Connect to +12V Constant
Blue Wire = Connect to +12V Ignition Sw. (or accessory)
Black Wire = To Negative (-) Ground

And according to that link...
Yellow, Gray Wires = +12V Constant
Pink, Green Wires = +12V Ignition

Sooo then...

KIT WIRES // CAR WIRES
Red // Yellow or Gray
Blue // Pink or Green

If I just splice the two on the left into one of the two on the right I'll have power? Correct me if I'm wrong, but tell me if I'm right, because I have no idea either way LOL! :iono:

[ChinoCharles]

bumperoo

[the_saint]

Hook them all up just to be sure. But if you hit the window down button and your neighbor's garage opens, well, then you did something wrong...or right depending on how you look at it. :)

seriously though, I don't know. If I'm reading your quotes right (top quote is for the wires in the kit correct?) I'd say red to yellow/grey for 12v constant and blue to pink/green for 12v switched.


colors are cool.

[ChinoCharles]

Yeah, that was what I was saying. Makes sense, and I guess you're right... can't hurt to try. Off to radio shack for some caps.

[Pitt Yaris]

i see this thread is old as sin, but do you have pic of the after? i wanna do power windows/locks on my base sedan. wondering about switches, location, etc.

[ChinoCharles]

Wow, this thread just turned 2! LOL. I actually don't have any pics taken. Bump this thread tomorrow and remind me to take some. Still works after 2 years, and the switches are hidden. I'll show you.

[cali yaris]

:clap: :smile:

[ChinoCharles]

:clap: for power windows.

[eTiMaGo]

reminds me that my front passenger power window has been inoperative for over a year now :laugh: