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View Full Version : Rolling frame rail and bracket removal


mikeukrainetz
11-23-2006, 01:00 AM
This will be a progressive DIY (hopefully if anyones interested) and a question.

The reason for this thread is obvious problems arrising from adding 20" rims to my Yaris most notably full lock rubbing.

After a week of driving with the new wheels and various loads Ive noticed the only 'real' problem Im seeming to have is full lock rubbing. There are two areas where the tires contact the frame on the car, some of this problem could be solved I suppose with spacers. Im planning to roll the edge of the frame and cut off an eyehook as shown in the photos.


This shows the bracket Ill have to remove. Does it actually have a purpose?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid219/pc7d58c6c0787280c0729c2c9a1ee79fe/ebf06997.jpg

This shows the front of the frame where Ill roll the edge
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid219/pb53550bf98c4a85f405ad7d46eb96604/ebf06998.jpg

This shows (if you can see it through the wheel) the location of both areas, the bracket is on the right just above the control arm and the frame area just left of the strut/spring.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid219/p27d16f7c5bf1326135918c0f4b86d32c/ebf06996.jpg

Ive already made an attempt to roll the edge of the frame but I didnt have enough time.

spkrman
11-23-2006, 05:10 AM
how are you "rolling" the edge?

punch
11-23-2006, 08:43 AM
This will be a progressive DIY (hopefully if anyones interested) and a question.

The reason for this thread is obvious problems arrising from adding 20" rims to my Yaris most notably full lock rubbing.

After a week of driving with the new wheels and various loads Ive noticed the only 'real' problem Im seeming to have is full lock rubbing. There are two areas where the tires contact the frame on the car, some of this problem could be solved I suppose with spacers. Im planning to roll the edge of the frame and cut off an eyehook as shown in the photos.


This shows the bracket Ill have to remove. Does it actually have a purpose?
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid219/pc7d58c6c0787280c0729c2c9a1ee79fe/ebf06997.jpg


its a tie down for when the vehicle is shipped...

03Z33
11-23-2006, 09:54 AM
its a tie down for when the vehicle is shipped...

Or towed...

Spacers would be a much better option, not only will the rubbing go away, but the wheels will fit much nicer and more flush with the fender.

BTW, I have the same rubbing in the same spots with one of my wheel setups that has high offset and wide/tall tires (215/45/17 with +38 offset) which is almost as tall and wide as your 20" wheel setup. I plan to just pick up a couple of 10mm bolt on spacers.

mikeukrainetz
11-23-2006, 11:08 AM
My only concern with spacers will be the reduction in stud length.

As far as the frame rail goes, the nice thing about subframes in general is the fact they are already boxed, the area I want to roll over is more of a 'flange'.
Heating it up and rolling it over is the only approach to use. Its about an inch + long, no big deal. Just curious, has anyone had any experience boxing frames/ notching frames/ modifying for a different steering box? same sort of idea.

Its supposed to snow here tonight so the wheels will probably be coming off for the stock setup (and no problems). So I may even wait till spring to even do this now, but if your buying spacers in the short term please post up how well they work, if it works for you I may just go that route.

03Z33
11-23-2006, 11:51 AM
You can get spacers that bolt onto your stock bolts, and add full length bolts on the spacer...

http://www.hrsprings.com/site/products/trak.html

Exactly. Or some spacers will come with longer studs and changing your studs is pretty quick, just remove caliper, rotor, bang out old studs, fit new ones and reinstall rotor and caliper. Takes no more than 20 min. per corner.

mikeukrainetz
11-23-2006, 02:28 PM
Exactly. Or some spacers will come with longer studs and changing your studs is pretty quick, just remove caliper, rotor, bang out old studs, fit new ones and reinstall rotor and caliper. Takes no more than 20 min. per corner.

Ive used the bolt on spacers once, I dont have any real reason but Im not a big fan of them. I prefer the plain spacers and am liking that idea the more I think about it, provided I can get the longer studs easily.

The place I bought my lugs has spacers real cheap, I think Ill consider that as an option and do some measuring before I pull the wheels off for the season.

Thanks for the input.