Tuned my blitz s/c'd yaris with the greddy emanage ultimate...

[PETERPOOP]

Alright, i'll tell you the scoops, even though I don't got the dyno graph yet. Seriously, Hawaii's shops never have ink or paper for their printers. Anyways....


The guy who tuned my car did the before and after pull in 2nd. I don't know if that is the reason their dyno read 120whp for the "before" dyno pull, instead of 140whp which a different dynojet gave me before i took the car to get tuned? Because the other place that read 140whp, did the pulls in 3rd. I'm no wizz, and I'm not sure if that is why there is a difference, or if it's just because every dyno is different? Anywho...

From what I remember, they were able to make it so I peaked out with HP at around 6500 RPM; instead of the hp dying off at around 6100 RPM. That is where I made 143 whp. However, there are parts where they advanced the timing, and there are gains of 30 + whp in the mid range. The car really pulls hard and strong now. It seems like I zoom through 1st and 2nd, and then I'm on the notorious long 3rd gear. Hehe.

So I guess you could say they got a gain of 23whp on the top end, but across the graph, like i said, there are gains from 20-30 + whp across the mid range. I am really happy about that.


So in the end, I had

143 whp/133 tq (i think that was the torque) oppossed to 120whp/ ? tq (the before numbers that the tuner got on their dyno)

and the dyno results I had before this ( on the different dyno jet ), was 140whp/133 tq.

So I honestly now have no idea how much WHP i have on this car. If you wanted to do the math with my old dyno numbers, I guess you add 23 whp to 140whp, and you got 163whp. It honestly feels like something in the 160 whp range (just from driving the car around). However, like i said earlier, the 140whp was done in 3rd, and all the dyno runs/tuning was done in 2nd. Does it make a difference, idk?


Also, another thing the tuner said, which was stated by blown_xA on yarisworld, that yes, the belt does slip at a constant high speed. The tuner was saying it's best when going through the gears, but when holding a steady high speed with the pedal to the metal, the belt will be slipping. So I should crank the sh+t out of it (tuner's words) and hope I don't break the belt. However, the belt slipping is not noticable while driving the car, and I don't think it's that big of a problem for me. It's just a daily driver and i don't even have a drag strip here....

Anyways, I am hoping to get the graph sometime soon (emailed); but he'll probably forget to email it and i'll have to wait until the got paper/ink again.


Also, he had no problems with the ultimate and it is holding the tune just fine. He said I can unplug the car battery and the ultimate will still hold the tune.

Sorry for the long post.

ps: For those of you with the blitz kit, and wanting more power, and don't plan on going turbo in the future, i definately suggest getting it tuned. The payoff is worth it and it's like almost getting the power of another blitz kit with 1/3 of the price (or less).

[H3LlIoN]

Dyno'ing in different gears will change the numbers slightly, but not in the 20hp range. It has to do with ratios. I'm surprised they did yours in second...hadn't heard of that before. Always 3rd or 4th.

[H3LlIoN]

Oh right...congrats on the gains, looking forward to seeing the graph. You s/c guys are my N/A goal.

[PETERPOOP]

Dyno'ing in different gears will change the numbers slightly, but not in the 20hp range. It has to do with ratios. I'm surprised they did yours in second...hadn't heard of that before. Always 3rd or 4th.

Yah, I've always heard of them doing it in 3rd too. However, when I did pulls on a dynapack before, the guy said it's better to do it in 4th on that kind of dyno. I asked the guy who tuned my car in 2nd, why he did it, and he said because 3rd gear is just so tall and takes forever to do it, he ended up doing it in 2nd.

You want to be able to get my whp numbers while being N/A? No NOS? Just from driving this car around now, I don't think it'd be possible.... but that is a good goal!

[H3LlIoN]

You want to be able to get my whp numbers while being N/A? No NOS? Just from driving this car around now, I don't think it'd be possible.... but that is a good goal!

Well...my initial goal is to beat the stock s/c numbers, which isn't hard, since they are 120's on a good day. After that, it's to beat 150, which should pretty well cover the modded s/c guys, AFAIK.

[PETERPOOP]

true. some guys like Ltnoogie (automatic) are only putting down around 120whp. He is probably the most "stock" supercharged guy out there right now.

[H3LlIoN]

I was using the Turbo Magazine numbers for the stock s/c, since they literally just ran s/c + TC + muffler, with no pullies or anything.

[PETERPOOP]

The ultimate replaces the fuel controller and allows the tuner to control alot more things. My AFR is at about 11.5 during open loop (according to their dyno). However, my wideband is showing 10.5 during open loop. All other AFR numbers are fine during normal driving and idle.

I used 92 octance with meth injection (HEET). I didn't do a 1 to 1 ratio of meth and water. Just pure HEET. Not sure how much that raises the octane levels?

I never had any detonation problem while running the meth kit with HEET. Up until i ran the meth kit, i was using a bottle of lucas octance booster with every tank. I would only see slight detonation even without the octance booster.

I also had the tuner wire it so the compressor turns on all the time. There is now no need for the switch and the electric clutch. And let me tell you, it's a lot quieter not hearing that stupid clicking noise every 3 seconds. ;) I guess this would also allow it so I could run a fixed pulley that would give me more boost; however, I won't be the guinea pig for that.

[H3LlIoN]

I guess this would also allow it so I could run a fixed pulley that would give me more boost; however, I won't be the guinea pig for that.


More hassle than value, IMO. Housing only capable of a safe 9 to 10 psi, which is minimal gain over your current charge. You would also have to add bypass actuator, which is where expense would come in.

[PETERPOOP]

Yah, like i mentioned in the MI forums, I'm already at 8-9 lbs of boost. I don't know how many more lbs of boost I could add and still have it run safely, for who knows how long. I'd also would want it retuned with the fixed pulley, and that's more $$.

I'll just enjoy what I have now for my DD, and see if anyone else is willing to step up.

[H3LlIoN]

When I get to the S/C part of my build, I'll give you a run for your money. :-P

[PETERPOOP]

:)

[H3LlIoN]

but then again, i won't be running blitz...:-D


Hey quick question...did your guy tune yours through the device itself, or via laptop?

[PETERPOOP]

I believe he did it through his laptop. He didn't use the discs that came with my emanage, and said he had all the software already installed on his laptop.

You going to run the greddy s/c? eaton?

[PETERPOOP]

True. However, the bang for the buck of tuning the supercharger is definately worth it. It's probably the best bang for the buck mod I have done to my car. Yet, if you plan on getting rid of the yaris, or the s/c, then I understand. But if you don't want to tune it because you don't think it's worth the money, i'd have to disagree. Best investment towards my s/c'd yaris. However, if you are wanting goals that equall to garm's turbo'd yaris, then ya, this tune won't even make you the slightest pleased.

[H3LlIoN]

Peter---no. Not blitz/greddy or eaton which, coincidentally, are all the same basic s/c, a magnuson MP45. Unit maxes out @ 10 and can not be mechanically inter-cooled. HP would max out with full complement of bolt ons in the 170 range...not enough for me.

Camell---run NOS on your s/c. The hp gains will be minimal, but the torque will flat slam you into the seat.

[thebarber]

any chance you can email me your tune? ;)

very nice gains though pete, koodos on taking the time/effort to tune your car!

[PETERPOOP]

thanks. i would if i could. the tuner has the cord that hooks up to a laptop. if i ever get the dyno graph from them, i'll ask if they have the tune file or whatever. :)

[PETERPOOP]

Well the tuner finally sent me the files of my dyno runs (before and after tune). However, I am trying to figure out the dynojet program, but can't figure out how to show the TQ numbers; but I don't think he sent those with the files he gave me. I'll keep you posted.

I was wrong with my info that I posted earlier after I got my tune done. I guess my base line was 116 and not 120. So I got 24 more whp on the top end. Also about 25-30whp in a certain part of the mid range.


http://i50.tinypic.com/2m4c31j.jpg


ps: I'm probably going to get a dyno run done at the place that showed me 140whp before my tune was done. I know, different day, different conditions, etc......but i'm just curious to see what it shows on that dyno. If everything would be in a perfect world, it should show 164 whp on that dyno. Who knows? Maybe a lot less. hehe

[nemesisz]

However, I am trying to figure out the dynojet program, but can't figure out how to show the TQ numbers; but I don't think he sent those with the files he gave me.

Try these settings out.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y150/nemesisZ/Winpep7screen1.jpg

Path: Tools > Graph Options > Properties > Axis Selections

On Properties - General Tab select show 2 graphs for HP/TQ and A/F

Your Air/Fuel should show on the second graph if the monitored it.

Sorry for the small screenshot.

[PETERPOOP]

k got it figured out. thanks.

Here is the dyno for the HP and TQ. Notice the different numbers for the two different settings (SAE and STD). The previous dyno i've done that showed me at 140whp was at SAE settings. So you can compare with the "SAE" numbers on these dyno sheets. However, the shop that did the tune says they use the "STD" setting for their dyno.

http://i46.tinypic.com/dra235.jpg

http://i50.tinypic.com/aoate1.jpg



Here's my AFR dyno. Right at around 11.5 during WOT.

http://i49.tinypic.com/x5xblw.jpg

[cali yaris]

You can definitely see the tuning in the a/f curves, that looks good

[nemesisz]

The tuning helped you out for sure. Look at the torque gain around 5500rpm. Almost 30ft.lbs at that point. It must be nice to have 120ish TQ across the board.
The A/F looks a whole lot better as well. Its nice and safe.

[thebarber]

great graphs, pete

again, if theres any way you can get me the tuning info, id appreciate it....hoping to be able to try out similar settings on my emanage blue when the time comes.

itd be wicked if you could head back to the previous dyno shop for a couple pulls. might give you a more braggable whp/wtq #. hardcore stuff, man.

[PETERPOOP]

The tuning helped you out for sure. Look at the torque gain around 5500rpm. Almost 30ft.lbs at that point. It must be nice to have 120ish TQ across the board.
The A/F looks a whole lot better as well. Its nice and safe.

Yah the car pulls really hard now while going through the gears.

great graphs, pete

again, if theres any way you can get me the tuning info, id appreciate it....hoping to be able to try out similar settings on my emanage blue when the time comes.

itd be wicked if you could head back to the previous dyno shop for a couple pulls. might give you a more braggable whp/wtq #. hardcore stuff, man.

I'll email the guy and see if he'll send me some stuff.

I'm definately going to do some pulls at the previous place. I believe their dyno is more accurate...

[taKuto]

the emanage ultimate just uses a regular USB a to b connector, similar to a usb printer cable. Would be great the see the tune file!

[Dj WaRrIoR]

ok i got an emanage one specif question.. is our ingintion system a 5volt or a 12 volts.. just to know what position to put the emultimate jumpers... i pluged in my emanage i did the wiring my self and i double checked everything and is ok BUT my car wouldnt start (it DID crank) for about 3 days i cheked injectors and ok but cheked spark plugs and nothing.. DONT ASK ME HOW (cuz dont know) i just got pissed off put everything back together reconected ecu and all of a sudden my car started for about 7 minutes!!!!! it had a lil misfired but it rev up by itself to 2,000 rpm for 7 consecutive minutes.. when the engine warmed up the rpm droped to 1000 and when fan came on started to idle roughly till it stopped.. tried starting and misfired on 500rpm and didnt want to turn back on.. i decided to reset factory ecu (cuz i was testing the coils for misfires) and the next day i reconnected and no sign of starting :( back to where we started!!!!!! so i called up my tuner and he told me that my ignition voltage was 12v not 5v and he cant explain how the car started up and held that rpm but i have video so he HAD to believe me... i changed the jumper on the ultimate to 12v erased the maps on ecu so we would have a fresh start.. and guess what.. DID NOT TURN ON!!!!!! :mad: what is the problem??????? any ideas??? did your yaris start right up when you pluged your ultimate? HELP PLZ!!!! i have the 7min run log and both setups the one it made by itself at 5v ign on that 7 min run and the new one i made with everything cleared for 12v ign

411=
have 315cc injectors @ 50psi
new fuel return line
new sparkplugs
new connecting rods
new 9.0comp pistons
setup the vehicle parameters on emanage 1nz fe
hooked up the ignition sequence as said on installation manual 1,3,4,2

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just so you know i had 315cc injectors,walbro fuel pump returnless and stock regulator, stock internals, apexi neo and a .42/.48 turbo at 8psi and i had 188whp ill check torque later my graphs are in the car right now...you can push your car all the way there SAFELY.. my problem was that my pistons rings went soft on me and had blow-by nothing else...all because of my returnless fuel delivery (on ocations aparently ran lean)