How to hot wire the Yaris [Archive] - Toyota Yaris Forums

Kiz

05-14-2010, 06:16 AM

My son put my keys somewhere in the house and I cant find them and he dont talk yet. It was my only key. my car is not locked. Can I possibly take steering collum apart and jump some wires to start it????

You're forgetting that the keys have a chip in them to deactivate the factory immobiliser... Crossing wires isn't going to do anything :p

Mobius1

05-14-2010, 10:32 AM

actually most yarii dont have immobilisers. Most of the hatches dont while some of the sedans do. I have a 2008 yaris hatch and it doesnt have an immobiliser system

GnomeBody

05-14-2010, 11:50 AM

his Tag is BankRobber and He want to know how to hotwire our cars... :confused:

swidd

05-14-2010, 11:56 AM

He's made 70 posts. Very dedicated robber then :)

CTScott

05-14-2010, 12:21 PM

My son put my keys somewhere in the house and I cant find them and he dont talk yet. It was my only key. my car is not locked. Can I possibly take steering collum apart and jump some wires to start it????

Since your car doesn't have the engine immobilizer you could hot-wire it. You would have to remove the ignition switch assembly to unlock the steering column.

If you look at my DIY wiring guide for remote start, everything you need is there. You basically would have to jump yellow to pink, white and green to run and yellow to black momentarily to start.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860&highlight=diy+remote+start

bankrobber

05-14-2010, 01:32 PM

his Tag is BankRobber and He want to know how to hotwire our cars... :confused:

LOL, yea I always use that username cause it's seldom used so I dont have to try 20 different names to find one not being used when registering on forums. I took the advice and had a key made at Toyota dealer for 10 bucks.
I forgot they could do that. Quess I dont need to play "gone in 60 seconds"
:clap:

mimelio

05-14-2010, 02:16 PM

LOL, yea I always use that user-name cause it's seldom used so I don't have to try 20 different names to find one not being used when registering on forums. I took the advice and had a key made at Toyota dealer for 10 bucks.
I forgot they could do that. Guess I don't need to play "gone in 60 seconds"
:clap:

Good thing you did make sure to go the hardware store and get a couple extra ones now:headbang:

GnomeBody

05-14-2010, 05:07 PM

Quess I dont need to play "gone in 60 seconds"

lol glad to hear you got a key made.

... It still scares me a bit that CTScott is farmiliar with how to hotwire the yaris... ;)

why?

05-14-2010, 06:36 PM

lol glad to hear you got a key made.

... It still scares me a bit that CTScott is farmiliar with how to hotwire the yaris... ;)

This is CTScott, nothing he can do should surprise you know. heck, he'll prolly build a real transformer out of a car soon just because he can.

Nebarnix

08-25-2010, 11:01 PM

Since your car doesn't have the engine immobilizer you could hot-wire it. You would have to remove the ignition switch assembly to unlock the steering column.

If you look at my DIY wiring guide for remote start, everything you need is there. You basically would have to jump yellow to pink, white and green to run and yellow to black momentarily to start.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24860&highlight=diy+remote+start

Not really interesting in hotwiring so much as DIY remote start. Except I don't plan on buying a module, I'm going to build it from scratch and use my EZ430 Chronos RF wrist watch to send packets to the radio which will start the car and lock / unlock the doors and activate an APRS beacon (all sorts of fun!).

In your guide you do not talk about which wires actually carry what information (voltages etc). Can you list more specifics? Is there a single 12V line that gets jumpered to the various other wires which then trigger relays? If so, then this hotwire procedure has me baffled.

Thanks and this is going to be a fun project, just added cruise control to my '07 liftback last month and I've only had it for a month and a half. Also, I do NOT have an immobilizer so no big deal there. I DO have a manual transmission but that's easy enough to also jumper the clutch switch while remote starting (I don't really want to just bypass it out like others are suggesting)

CTScott

08-25-2010, 11:23 PM

Not really interesting in hotwiring so much as DIY remote start. Except I don't plan on buying a module, I'm going to build it from scratch and use my EZ430 Chronos RF wrist watch to send packets to the radio which will start the car and lock / unlock the doors and activate an APRS beacon (all sorts of fun!).

In your guide you do not talk about which wires actually carry what information (voltages etc). Can you list more specifics? Is there a single 12V line that gets jumpered to the various other wires which then trigger relays? If so, then this hotwire procedure has me baffled.

Thanks and this is going to be a fun project, just added cruise control to my '07 liftback last month and I've only had it for a month and a half. Also, I do NOT have an immobilizer so no big deal there. I DO have a manual transmission but that's easy enough to also jumper the clutch switch while remote starting (I don't really want to just bypass it out like others are suggesting)

Sounds like a fun project. I have been seriously fighting the urge to buy one of those TI watches, as I already have too many projects in the works.

To start the car, The gray wire in pin 5 of the keyswitch connector (which is the +12V via the AM2 fuse) has to get jumped to the Ignition and Ignition 2 wires and then to the starter wire.

Nebarnix

08-25-2010, 11:52 PM

Sounds like a fun project. I have been seriously fighting the urge to buy one of those TI watches, as I already have too many projects in the works.

To start the car, The gray wire in pin 5 of the keyswitch connector (which is the +12V via the AM2 fuse) has to get jumped to the Ignition and Ignition 2 wires and then to the starter wire.

Ok, that's straight forward enough. In order to keep the ACC (mostly A/C!) on I am assuming that the 12V needs to stay connected to the ignition 1 and 2 wires? Or is that what the ACC wire is for (is it even possible to start the car without accessory power on?) Thanks for your help!

CTScott

08-26-2010, 12:15 AM

Ok, that's straight forward enough. In order to keep the ACC (mostly A/C!) on I am assuming that the 12V needs to stay connected to the ignition 1 and 2 wires? Or is that what the ACC wire is for (is it even possible to start the car without accessory power on?) Thanks for your help!

Yes, IG1 and IG2 stay at +12 during cranking.

Acc is a separate wire. Acc should be off during cranking (the Yaris has an ACC cut circuit that does that while it is cranking).

Nebarnix

08-26-2010, 12:34 AM

Yes, IG1 and IG2 stay at +12 during cranking.

Acc is a separate wire. Acc should be off during cranking (the Yaris has an ACC cut circuit that does that while it is cranking).

Thanks!

That sure is a curious way to rig things up with three wires. Security to make it more difficult to hotwire? Hopefully the starter current isn't passing through those wires. I'd like to use these 30A power transistors I have laying around for the control.

You'll have to excuse me, I'm not much of a car person so some of these things which might be tribal knowledge escape me :)

CTScott

08-26-2010, 07:59 AM

Thanks!

That sure is a curious way to rig things up with three wires. Security to make it more difficult to hotwire? Hopefully the starter current isn't passing through those wires. I'd like to use these 30A power transistors I have laying around for the control.

You'll have to excuse me, I'm not much of a car person so some of these things which might be tribal knowledge escape me :)

Everything is low current at the switch. The starter, ignition and accessory wires all switch power to the coil of relays.

Nebarnix

08-27-2010, 09:41 PM

Everything is low current at the switch. The starter, ignition and accessory wires all switch power to the coil of relays.

Thanks this is great. Interesting question though. How to sense when the key is turned on so that the lines can be dropped -- otherwise, you can't turn off the car because the remote start system is keeping them high!

It might be possible to interface with the speed sensor, break sensor, or cruise control clutch switch. If anyone can think of an easier way (maybe what the commercial units are using) it would be helpful!

CTScott

08-27-2010, 10:21 PM

Thanks this is great. Interesting question though. How to sense when the key is turned on so that the lines can be dropped -- otherwise, you can't turn off the car because the remote start system is keeping them high!

It might be possible to interface with the speed sensor, break sensor, or cruise control clutch switch. If anyone can think of an easier way (maybe what the commercial units are using) it would be helpful!

You can monitor the yellow wire on 2 pin connector on the side of the keyswitch assembly. It is the key sense wire and it goes to ground when the key is inserted.

Remote starters actually watch the brake to turn off. You have to turn the key to the one position before pressing the brake, otherwise the car shuts off. The brake is also the safety, as pressing it immediately kills the running car.

Nebarnix

08-28-2010, 02:23 PM

You can monitor the yellow wire on 2 pin connector on the side of the keyswitch assembly. It is the key sense wire and it goes to ground when the key is inserted.

Remote starters actually watch the brake to turn off. You have to turn the key to the one position before pressing the brake, otherwise the car shuts off. The brake is also the safety, as pressing it immediately kills the running car.

Sorry to keep bugging you and thank you for the information. Its perfect. I have one last question. On the DIY remote start wiring guide, the brake switching is listed as being on top of the brake pedal. Is that underneath the car or by the pedals?

CTScott

08-28-2010, 02:39 PM

Sorry to keep bugging you and thank you for the information. Its perfect. I have one last question. On the DIY remote start wiring guide, the brake switching is listed as being on top of the brake pedal. Is that underneath the car or by the pedals?

By the pedals. Right at the top of the brake pedal.

Nebarnix

09-09-2010, 05:37 PM

By the pedals. Right at the top of the brake pedal.

Ok, I see the wires. But there are 5 wires (not sure why, maybe tail lights?). Do you know which wire is connected to the switch and if it is a make/break or a pull high/low type of signal?

Thanks! Remote lock / unlock with the EZ-430 chronos is so freakin great, I even have it doing the double pulse to unlock all doors with one command. I feel like James Bond (it helps that the watch beeps as I activate the locks)

CTScott

09-09-2010, 05:52 PM

Ok, I see the wires. But there are 5 wires (not sure why, maybe tail lights?). Do you know which wire is connected to the switch and if it is a make/break or a pull high/low type of signal?

Thanks! Remote lock / unlock with the EZ-430 chronos is so freakin great, I even have it doing the double pulse to unlock all doors with one command. I feel like James Bond (it helps that the watch beeps as I activate the locks)

On that connector, Green gets pulled to 12V when the pedal is pressed.

Nebarnix

11-28-2010, 10:51 PM

CTScott, I am sending the final boards out to the fab in the next week or so. I will have a low power in-car wireless sensor network using 2.5Ghz 3mW nodes and a high power car to wrist watch / car to house PC using a 915Mhz 500mW link which can act as a gateway to the low power network as well as remote start and door lock unlock. The neat thing is that the low power wireless node can be used to implement additional functions in the future.

I have one question which would really simplify my design. Can IGN1 and IGN2 be tied together permanently? This would take my number of outputs from 9 to 8 which you can understand is a desirable number :)

Outputs
1 clutch sw bypass
2 ign1 / ign2
3 accessory
4 starter
5 lock
6 unlock
7 horn
8 lights

Thanks!

CTScott

11-28-2010, 11:08 PM

Nebarnix

12-06-2010, 01:00 PM

Turns out you are quite right about tying them together. bad idea.

I have found the wiring guide and gone through the schematics. It turns out that the ACC wire carries the full 30A through the key switch and is the only signal that does not trigger a relay. See pg 68-70 in the wiring guide.

I have started a page which outlines both the open universal remote start system as well as details for which wire turns on which systems.

http://wiki.nebarnix.com/wiki/Yaris_Remote_Start

So to hot wire you would
#1 Pull IG1 to 12V (and keep it there)
#2 Pull IG2 to 12V (and keep it there)
#3 Pull Starter to 12V and drop once the engine is started.

You could pull ACC to 12V as well (there is a built-in cutoff relay during cranking) but not only is it not neccesary, but you might see sparks as the circuit could pass the full 30A, though most likely it would just pass the radio current.

Thanks for all the help CTScott! I can't wait to get the boards populated and see how well it works.

IG1 and IG2 are part of two separate circuits with two different sized fuses, so I wouldn't tie them together.

extreme.aly

10-24-2015, 02:47 PM

Sorry for bringing back a 5 year old post back to life :p

I'm also trying to get my engine "on" wirelessly. But in my case, I'm trying to give my car both options. Turn the engine on with keys or without keys (via bluetooth).

So I want to make sure what exactly happens to the IGNITION SWITCH PINS at different states. Please correct me if i'm wrong.

At LOCK position: nothing is connected to anything
At ACC position: AM1 is connected to ACC
At On position: AM1 is connected to ACC and IG1
At Starter position: AM1 is connected to ACC and IG1, and AM2 is connected to ST2 and IG2

AM1: Yellow wire
ACC: White wire
IG1: Green wire
AM2: Gray wire
IG2: Pink wire
ST2: Black wire

Is that right?