2010 oil leak ...

[Hershey]

here's pic . Very similar to the '08 sedan we have . They put dye in this engine as well. Bring it back to dealer in a few weeks. Will keep posted.

[Hershey]

used a mirror and a flashlight to get a look at the upper back part of the timing chain seal for the 2010 and 2008 to find the seal leaking just above the large ledge in the corner that's part of the block . It was wet with a sheen of oil and felt slippery on the tip of my finger . Could see some dye in that area with a blacklight on the 2008 sedan . Quite sure it's not the head gasket for either YARIS . I can see how this leak could easily be overlooked . Will try to get a clear picture of that area that's on both . Plan to switch from the 5w-30 synthetic that's used for both to a conventional motor oil to see what occurs .

[Yaris Hilton]

I thought a head gasket was an unlikely source of an oil leak alone. Usually the main problem with that is gas from the combustion chambers leaking into the cooling jackets, followed by coolant being sucked into the chambers.

[TheSilkySmooth]

I have some weeping around that area too. Remeber "everyone" will tell ya modern synthetics dont "cause" leaks.

[Hershey]

this is from the 2008 sedan . The area circled in red is the sealant for the backside of the timing chain cover that is most likely the source of the leak for the '08 and 2010 3 door . Cleaned this area that was wet with fresh oil and could see some dye with the blacklight . It also had a sheen to it with a regular flashlight . Plan to recheck it in a week or so for both cars and clean it again . Then after that plan to dump the SHELL Full synthetic 5w-30 and replace with SHELL conventional 5w-30 and do a short run of about 2,500 miles to get rid of more dye along with synthetic that's left behind in the '08 . Then again refill with SHELL conventional to see if the leak stops or slows down . Will do the same for the 2010 at a later date . Hopefully this will do the trick . If not , will take pics to a different dealer to get the leaks repaired :frown: .

[1stToyota]

Just checked that area on mine...a little discoloration and buildup there, but doesn't look wet at all, and I've used synthetic in all but one oil change since new. Maybe it's just an area that's prone to leak if it's not sealed properly with RTV when the motor is assembled. If it's leaking at the front cover the RTV shouldn't really be effected by the oil being synthetic or conventional.

[Hershey]

rechecked the 2008 last night and it's getting wet again . Going to dump the syn and dye with conventional before the weekend .

[Hershey]

checked it again this evening after little less than a week . The seal and the upper / underside of ledge are wet with oil again after cleaning that area . The blacklight showed green ( engine dye ) around the seal . Drained the synthetic with the dye out of the '08 sedan earlier and replaced with conventional SHELL 5w-30 . Recleaned the area again . Plan to do a short run of that to get most / all of the synthetic and leftover dye out . Then stay with the conventional SHELL 5w-30 to see if the leak slows or stops . Hopefully the myth of synthetics causing leaks to be the case and somehow the conventional will put the seeping to an end . Will do the same with the 2010 3 door . Time will tell .

[1stToyota]

Good luck & hope you see a difference, but if the leak is at the front cover where the RTV sealant is I can't imagine synthetic being able to seep through but conventional oil not.

But just in case, I'm due an oil change, so for s&g I'll be using regular 5w30, and if it does good I'll probably stick with it and stop using synthetic also, but not because I'm experiencing any leaks now, because it'll save me money, plus I stick to 5k OCIs.

[Hershey]

Thanks . Just changed oil from SHELL 5w-30 Full Synthetic to SHELL 5w-30 conventional to rid of most of the syn and the dye . Checked and cleaned all areas that gather oil from the leaky seal . Will drain it again in 1,500 > 2,000 miles and then once more in the mid to late fall using SHELL or PENNZOIL 5w-30 convental . No more syns for awhile , if ever . Will keep eye on leak ( including the '08 sedan ) and hope for the best . Didn't realize the 3 door already has 7,400 miles not 6,600 . She drives it most of time . Sneaks up on yeh .

[frog13]

First off,I'm not a mechanic/tech.I do however,ride DS bikes and have researched this very "thang" in regards to bikes.If your engine is new,has low miles and you do not have alot of run time,I'd say there is a torque issue or an improperly installed "gasket".Synthetics usually don't show leaks unless they are put in older vehicles.The older vehicles were more than likely using conventional oil for the majority of their service life,then the owner...for reasons unknown...decided to switch to synthetic.During the time the conventional oil was used...and yes,that's ok if you keep up with oil changes!!!....deposits build along the gasket "line".Now,add-in,during this time there was also blow-by fuel mixing in with the oil and engaging the gaskets...causing deterioation and overtime the conventional oil deposit were "filling-in" those micro-increasing gaps!.Synthetic oil is now introduced.This oil,which "cleans" better/more effectively and has MUCH better flow charateristics...is now removing all those years of deposits and the leaks begin to appear. The idea,I've read,is to begin using synthetic oil as soon as your engine is "broke-in"......then you won't have---as quick of gasket break-down as you did with the years of conventional use.:thumbsup:

[Hershey]

both YARIS now have SHELL conventional 5w-30 . Will be draining these fills in 1,500 > 2,000 miles . Then another for both in late fall and run until MARCH or early APRIL of 2011 . Will post results as time flies by .

[Hershey]

checked for leak on the 2010 and was slighty wet with 539 miles on the oil change of SHELL conventional 5w-30 . Recleand the whole area . So , it seems to have slowed down with the conventional . Figure there's still a 1/2 quart or a bit more of the synthetic still in it . Will be doing another oil change soon with the SHELL 5w-30 to get rid of the syn that's left .

[Hershey]

decided to drain oil earlier with 569 miles on previous oil change and replaced with SHELL 5w-30 conventional along with another TOYO oil filter . There was still plenty of engine dye in the extracted oil . Wanted to get rid of the synthetic left behind so is mostly conventional oil . Took an empty 4 gallon jug of motor oil to measure the drained oil from the oil pan and oil filter . The oil was slightly over the 3 quart mark . Thus over 3/4s' of a quart must remain in the engine . I use 3 quarts and 22 ounces to get the to the FULL mark . This includes close to 6 ounces poured into the new oil filter before installation . Recleaned area where oil leaks and collects . Next oil change for both YARII won't be until late OCTOBER to early NOVEMBER . Will inspect in between . Hoping the leaks will start to slow or stop with the use of conventional . Time will tell all .

[127.0.0.1]

decided to drain oil earlier with 569 miles on previous oil change and replaced with SHELL 5w-30 conventional along with another TOYO oil filter . There was still plenty of engine dye in the extracted oil . Wanted to get rid of the synthetic left behind so is mostly conventional oil . Took an empty 4 gallon jug of motor oil to measure the drained oil from the oil pan and oil filter . The oil was slightly over the 3 quart mark . Thus over 3/4s' of a quart must remain in the engine . I use 3 quarts and 22 ounces to get the to the FULL mark . This includes close to 6 ounces poured into the new oil filter before installation . Recleaned area where oil leaks and collects . Next oil change for both YARII won't be until late OCTOBER to early NOVEMBER . Will inspect in between . Hoping the leaks will start to slow or stop with the use of conventional . Time will tell all .

an oil leak is an oil leak

changing the type of oil won't do any good

have it repaired properly

[Hershey]

worth a shot . If not , will get it repaired under warranty .

[Hershey]

well it's official we have a head gasket leak for the 2008 and 2010 . Decided to put the '08 sedan on the ramps and crawl under to look for oil and discovered a small drop on the 1st small ledge under the large lip ( pictured above ) after 2 days of driving in the extreme heat . Cleaned that off and took a look at the seal again to find it dry and no oil residue on tip of finger . Then I took another look with the flashlight at a different angle and noticed a sheen from the plastic head gasket that's sits further in ( cavern like ) above the large lip . Got out from under the car and reached in back of the engine and ran finger in that area to find plenty of fresh oil . The oil that leaks from it must reach the timing chain seal ( pictured above ) and makes that wet with oil and runs down under the the large lip ( pic above ) making me think it was the sealant all along . So the mechanic was right about the head gasket leak , but not from where he pointed out to be the " ball bearing " within the block below the large lip ( picture of that under the topic " WHAT'S THIS " ? ) . Then I decided to look at the 2010 3 door and that too was wet with oil in the same spot . Thus that has the plastic head gasket leaking as well . Talk about sh*t for luck . Will have to get both corrected under warranty . Not looking forward to that moment . Meantime will keep close eye on the leaks and the level of the coolant in both ( no change as off yet ) .

[Hershey]

could starting both cars out with synthetic motor oil at 1,500 miles be the culprit ? :iono: . Just seems odd that both have the same leak and are a few years apart . Can't think of any other reason .

[Lucas13]

Have you ever flushed the engince with some product?

[Hershey]

nope , neither one .

[Hershey]

2008 nearing 22,000 mis. and 2010 around 7,300 .

[frog13]

I'm not arguing with anyone...but,synthetic motoroil WILL find faulty/faultering gaskets/seals!.I'm not debating a vehicles mileage or service records or the owners ability to do them...........synthetic has FAR superior flow characteristics,shear stability etc.At least try switching to a conventional motoroil and see what the result is.:smile:

[1stToyota]

He's already tried that...and I doubt that the oil was the reason for the failed head gasket. A seal maybe, in a neglected motor, but not a head gasket in a well maintained low mileage vehicle.

edit... oops, I re-read and saw where your indicated faulty gaskets

[Hershey]

this is a picture of where the head gaskets are leaking in both YARII circled in RED . This is taken from the 2010 3 door . The area circled in BLUE is the sealant for the tiiming chain cover that I thought was leaking . The area in RED is where the plastic head gasket is located on top of the cavern of the block that's found above the large ledge . The oil seeps from underneath and runs along the edge of the block / exposed head gasket ( in left side of RED circle ) and down to the sealant in BLUE . Then that runs under the large ledge and down the corner of the block that's pictured in the thread " Noticed possible oil leak " on page 2 and then scroll down to POST # 29 ( www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26502&page=2 ) to see the bottom of the large ledge where oil collects on the 2010 .

[Red Horse]

This thread should be in a history of yarisworld, Hershey just confirm that the using conventional oil is more restrictive than syntetic.

[Hershey]

both have had 2 oil changes with SHELL 5w-30 conventional oil in a months time and around 600 > 800 miles for both oil changes for each YARIS . So , maybe it's too soon for seepage to slow or stop with the conventional . :iono: . Will keep track of it . No improvement , then off to the service center for both YARISes . :thumbdown:

[Hershey]

I suggest that those who started to use a synthetic early in the break in period or later take a good look for this . Those who use conventional may want to do the same . Many might not be aware of it . Especially those who get their oil changed by someone else . Would think there are some out there with this issue . I didn't notice it on the 2008 ( bought new ) until this past spring and I do all the oil changes for both cars . It's easy to overlook .

[Hershey]

TOYOTA . Oh , what a feeling !!! :cry: . More like the feeling you get when you get your prostate exam :moon: . :eek:

[sleey0]

So, the big question is:

Is this a common issue? Anyone else have leaks? Please share.

[Hershey]

it's not an easy leak to spot . As pictured above .

[Lucas13]

While I was taking care of the tension of my drive belt I decided to do a good inspection of the head gasket with a mirror and guess what...surprise!!! I found a small leak by the timing chaing side on the head cover gasket,I was able to see the dust trapped in the oil, the leak is also behind the alternator on that tiny courner.

Folks that use conventional oil should also take a look at this, this shouldnt happen so soon, normally the gasket that starts leaking first is the valve cover one, but the head gasket??? wow!!!

[sleey0]

I see these pics and maybe it's just me but I am not seeing a huge problem here.

I dunno. Looks pretty insignificant to me.

[Hershey]

I see these pics and maybe it's just me but I am not seeing a huge problem here.

I dunno. Looks pretty insignificant to me. this is because these areas have been cleaned before the pictures were taken . They're are photos with oil collected underneath the leak for both YARIS .

[Hershey]

These are from the '08 which has 23,000+ miles and leaks more . The 2010 seems to have slowed down . 1st pic is where the oil leaks from the plastic head gasket above the large ledge and collects underneath it . Have found it to run along seal of timing chain cover and end up on the upper lip of the oil pan . Not all that significant . The 2nd pic is the top of the ledge . The area circled in RED is where the plastic head gasket is hidden under the upper head . The last pic is a close up of the plastic head gasket that leaks for both ( sorry a bit blurred ) . The '08 sedan gets wet with oil every 100 miles or more , while the 2010 hasn't with same miles as of recent.

[Lucas13]

I cleaned the rear side I will keep the eye on it :eek:

[127.0.0.1]

an oil leak is a true fire hazard. it must be fixed. most cars fires
are from oil leak buildup.
oil leak....fixed. done.

[Hershey]

I'll possibly get to it after a few more oil changes with conventional engine oil . The 2010 seems to have stopped leaking with 2 conventinional O.C.s . Took it over 160 miles earlier in 90 degree heat . Did a quick check not long after we arrived home and nothing far as I can tell . Will do a more thorough inspection tomorrow . Keep our fingers crossed . So , 127.0.0.1 you'll need to be more patient .

[127.0.0.1]

I'll possibly get to it after a few more oil changes with conventional engine oil . The 2010 seems to have stopped leaking with 2 conventinional O.C.s . Took it over 160 miles earlier in 90 degree heat . Did a quick check not long after we arrived home and nothing far as I can tell . Will do a more thorough inspection tomorrow . Keep our fingers crossed . So , 127.0.0.1 you'll need to be more patient .

no, you can't fix an oil leak on a car by changing the oil, you can
only, perhaps, mask the problem. the problem remains

you need to repair a seal or gasket

there are no -liquid engine repair kits-

[Hershey]

we'll see .

[pennyracer]

drain plug is leaking is my guess did you put a new drain bolt gasket on the drain bolt after you drained the oil ? all stop leak products a a bigger problem after you use it just like 127.0.0.1 is saying i fix the problem never will use half assed stop leak products in anything motor or tansmission of mine good luck with your oil leak should be a simple fix is my guess

[Hershey]

yes , always use a washer for the drain plug . There are pics of the leak . It's the plastic head gasket . Not a simple fix , quite a task . Don't use stop leak products . Would most likely void the warranty . Have been doing oil changes and working on cars ( nothing major ) for over 25 years .

[pennyracer]

do you mean under the black motor cover ? that comes off with to nuts then the valve cover is exposed just seems odd a 2010 springing a leak so eary on but it can happen to any new car

[pennyracer]

looks like a valve cover leak maybe

[Hershey]

Nope . Head gasket . For 2008 and 2010 . Located the leak for both .

[127.0.0.1]

yes , always use a washer for the drain plug . There are pics of the leak . It's the plastic head gasket . Not a simple fix , quite a task . Don't use stop leak products . Would most likely void the warranty . Have been doing oil changes and working on cars ( nothing major ) for over 25 years .

I know just a wee bit about how gaskets function and you can't
fix a head gasket with prayer-in-a-can.

[1stToyota]

When did they start making plastic head gaskets? I've seen lots of plastic gaskets, including plastic intake gaskets, but that's a new one for me.

[Hershey]

Don't know . But I know hard black plastic when I see it .

[1stToyota]

Napa's import line (Altrom) gasket for our Yaris looks to be layered steel with a coating on it; pretty typical for most.

http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/982727.jpg

I don't think plastic, even if it's reinforced around the combustion areas would take the heat, but I've been wrong before.

[CTScott]

Napa's import line (Altrom) gasket for our Yaris looks to be layered steel with a coating on it; pretty typical for most.

http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/982727.jpg

I don't think plastic, even if it's reinforced around the combustion areas would take the heat, but I've been wrong before.

It is definitely an MLS (multi-layer steel) head gasket.

[Hershey]

Thanks . That's it . Looks to be a smooth plastic coating . The leak is from the lower right corner of the gasket close to the timing chain . The area circled in BLUE is where the leak comes from both '08 and 2010 . The exposed part of the gasket runs under the upper head . Wouldn't know it was steel by looking and touching it . I'll call someone to find out if it's all plastic or plastic coated steel or other coating.

[Hershey]

2010 still leaks :frown: . Checked it after 3 days and around 160 miles . Seems like when there's back pressure from within the engine when brake assist kicks in the leak(s) is/are worse ( 2008 included ) .

[Lucas13]

2010 still leaks :frown: . Checked it after 3 days and around 160 miles . Seems like when there's back pressure from within the engine when brake assist kicks in the leak(s) is/are worse ( 2008 included ) .

Hershey are you planning to get this fixed on both? I cleaned mine pretty well about 600 miles ago and I see no leaks, I'm still using Mobil 1 Synthetic.

[Hershey]

will give them a little more time .

[Hershey]

These are from the '08 which has 23,000+ miles and leaks more . The 2010 seems to have slowed down . 1st pic is where the oil leaks from the plastic head gasket above the large ledge and collects underneath it . Have found it to run along seal of timing chain cover and end up on the upper lip of the oil pan . Not all that significant . The 2nd pic is the top of the ledge . The area circled in RED is where the plastic head gasket is hidden under the upper head . The last pic is a close up of the plastic head gasket that leaks for both ( sorry a bit blurred ) . The '08 sedan gets wet with oil every 100 miles or more , while the 2010 hasn't with same miles as of recent. Disregard the area in RED for post #5 and post #24 and #34 circled in BLUE . Found that not to be the source , the oil does collect there from the exposed head gasket (black ) circled in RED . This was in the early stages when hunting for the source of the oil leak .

[auxmike]

I took these shots of my engine.
The top one shows Some crud building up on the rear corner of the valve cover.
The others are what I think you are talking about?
My head seems clean and dry, do you agree?
BTW, I use a Panasonic Lumix DMC-TS2 for quality closeups...:thumbsup:
Leica lens, can't go wrong......

[yaris2010RS]

+1, my 2010 has what looks to be an oilly dusty residue under it also in select locations...... ill take another look when i get a chance but i think its jsut road residue.

[firemachine69]

Soooo... Where am I looking for this leak?

[Hershey]

AUXMIKE , my valve cover gasket is fine for both YARIS . When I do oil changes I'm very carefull not to spill oil when pouring it in with a funnel . Do you do your own oil changes ? If not , maybe they spilled some . As for the oil leak , it comes from the exposed black head gasket in the picture you took ( very clear :thumbsup: ) . I circled it in RED ( part of exposed gasket is to the left ( black) , rest of it is under the head ) . The ARROW I drew shows that the oil leaks from under the gasket and downward . To check for the oil leak you'll need to reach around to the back of the engine and then run either your index / middle finger ( :biggrin: ) under the exposed part of gasket from right to left to gather the any possible oil . If you find oil or a black soot or both you may have the leak . You may want to take some paper towels and window cleaner ( cuts through the grime , oil ) and clean that area thoroughly and then recheck after 100 milles or greater . Then recheck several more times . I suggest you do it when the engine is cold or wait a little while to cool off . Learned my lesson the hard way . Let us know what you find . Hopefully it's fine .

[Hershey]

Seems like when you put the car in 3rd going down hills the oil leak speeds up , probably due to the back pressure from within the cylinder ( #1 ) . Therefore may want to do this to get more oil to seep from the gasket .

[yaris2010RS]

Seems like when you put the car in 3rd going down hills the oil leak speeds up , probably due to the back pressure from within the cylinder ( #1 ) . Therefore may want to do this to get more oil to seep from the gasket .

how did u check the leak when u were in 3rd going downhill? :iono:

seems dangerous.....lol

[Hershey]

Yup , don't try this at home kids . The leak should speed up for quicker results when checking for it .

[33OH]

how did u check the leak when u were in 3rd going downhill? :iono:

seems dangerous.....lol

http://surf.transworld.net/files/2009/01/22/jacque2_w.jpg

[Hershey]

Cool . :smoking:

[Hershey]

Well , it's confirmed . We went back earlier this evening to see if our friends 2010 3 door had leaked more oil from the exposed gasket and more fresh oil was found since I checked it this past SATURDAY , which was wet with oil and then thoroughly recleaned . He had drove it about 600 miles since SATURDAY . He uses it for his business and has close to 49,000 miles on it since purchased new in OCTOBER of '09 . I showed him and his wife the fresh oil that gatherd on my fingertips . This was the 3rd time to discover oil in that same area as our 2010 L.B. . We figure these cars were manufactured about 4 > 5 months apart . We got ours in JANUARY of 2010 . So , this is the 3rd YARIS with a head gasket that leaks oil . Our 2008 sedan ( head gasket replaced w/ no leak so far ) , our 2010 3 door , and his 2010 3 door . We plan to look at other used YARIS and try to see if those have the same leak . This seems to cover 2007 > 2010 . Hopefully not the 2011s ' . Time will tell .

[2007yariz]

To auxmike: Thanks for the pics, mine looks exactly like that. Any updates Mike?

It surprised me that they used white rubber to seal the engine? if you look closely at Mike's pics...

To Hershey: How many threads did you create lol. I am happy for you that TOYOTA took care of you with 8 year / 125,000 mile powertrain warranty for your Yaris.:smile: How is the PYB GF5 SN doing in your Yaris? Any difference?

[auxmike]

I have'nt stuck my hand back there since taking the pics:iono:
I wish others WOULD check and post pics if possible. I do have the black soot stuff, but no "live" oil leak to be seen.
I just got done replacing a WATER PUMP that began to LEAK at a whopping 30,000mi of use in 2 years. I've NEVER had a pump go that fast, not even on my old Saturns!:cry:
I'm not gonna lose sleep about checking for oil leaks back there. I think I would rather live with a small leak vs. having them teardown my engine and screw it up in other ways...

[auxmike]

AUXMIKE , my valve cover gasket is fine for both YARIS . When I do oil changes I'm very carefull not to spill oil when pouring it in with a funnel . Do you do your own oil changes ? If not , maybe they spilled some . As for the oil leak , it comes from the exposed black head gasket in the picture you took ( very clear :thumbsup: ) . I circled it in RED ( part of exposed gasket is to the left ( black) , rest of it is under the head ) . The ARROW I drew shows that the oil leaks from under the gasket and downward . To check for the oil leak you'll need to reach around to the back of the engine and then run either your index / middle finger ( :biggrin: ) under the exposed part of gasket from right to left to gather the any possible oil . If you find oil or a black soot or both you may have the leak . You may want to take some paper towels and window cleaner ( cuts through the grime , oil ) and clean that area thoroughly and then recheck after 100 milles or greater . Then recheck several more times . I suggest you do it when the engine is cold or wait a little while to cool off . Learned my lesson the hard way . Let us know what you find . Hopefully it's fine .

Upon examining this pic again it does look fishy that that black dust seems to almost stick to the spots were it would leak. almost like the oil is outgassing just enough to attract airborne dust.
I might try using a q-tip to really get in that gasket spot and see if anything shows up from where a finger won't fit...

[Hershey]

AUXMIKE , by the looks of the picture you took it seems you may have the oil leak . This is how I found our friends 2010 YARIS with 48,000+ miles and the 2008 with 17,000+ miles. It's best to thoroughly clean the whole area ( especially the underside of the gasket , circled in GREEN ) in the picture with paper towel(s) soaked with windex or other solvent that would cut through the oily residue ( oil mixed w/ road dust , etc. ) and wipe dry with paper towels . Then leave it alone for 100 pus miles miles ( or more ) and check with the swipe of a fingertip(s) or a Q-tip on the underside of the exposed part of the head cylinder gasket ( you'll notice the side of the black gasket ( circled in GREEN ) that then goes under the head and then comes back out from under to the right ( circled in GREEN ) . The oil leaks from under the gasket , that's where you run your fingertip(s) , Q-tips to gather fresh oil . May want to reclean and recheck few more times for verification ( O.C.D. :biggrin: ) . Clean the top , front , sides , and under the large ledge / lip ( picture below ) that's part of the lower block . That collects fresh oil as well and runs down along the timing chain cover sealant to the oil pan over a period of time . Hopefully your car is fine . Know how you feel about having your motor and other items of the car removed for the fix . The friend of ours doesn't want anyone looking or tearing apart his 2010 that has the same leak . That's part of reason we asked for the free extended warranty . We will be bringing the 2010 in for the replacement as soon as enough oil gathers to present it to the mechanic(s) .

[Hershey]

" It surprized me me that they used white rubber to seal the engine "

They resealed the 2008 with the black Form In Place Gasket ( F.I.P.G. ) sealant . Seems to be of better quality than that from the factory .

"How many threads did you create , L.O.L. "

Enough to get anyones attention . :biggrin:

" I am happy for you that TOYOTA took care of you with 8 year / 125,000 mile powertrain warranty for your YARIS :smile: "

Us too , thank you . :thumbsup:

" How is the PYB GF-5 SN doing in your YARIS ? Any Difference ? "

Seems to be fine , not aware of any improvements . Did get 42.17 miles per gallon on a fill since the oil change . Can't say for sure it was partly due to the S.N. , GF-5 engine oil :iono: . Still can't knock it , especially for an engine that leaks oil from the head cylinder gasket of the #1 cylinder . Maybe we should skip the fix for the automatic 2010 3 door with gas mileage like that . :wink:

[auxmike]

HD video of the rear of my engine showing that area....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVK_uBKotcU

[Hershey]

Very well done :thumbsup: . If you PAUSE the video at 19 , 30 , 33 , 45 and 50 seconds , you'll notice the black Multi Layered Steel head cylinder gasket . That's where the oil leaks from beneath it . Driving the car down hills in 3rd gear seems to speed up the leaking of oil . Did you clean it ? Does look like there's a sheen as if fresh oil has gathered in that area . THANKS for your effort . :clap:

[auxmike]

I hav'nt cleaned it.
I wiped around there again though, but can't say there's any real wetness. But that little cupped spot behind the head looks like a full ashtray!:iono:
I'm at 32k miles currently.
I do want to clean it real good and then monitor it as you do.
There's no way I'd approach the dealer with how it looks now nor would I want my engine torn apart for just some soot...

[Hershey]

Make sure to clean in the back of the cupped area and the bottom of the entire gasket as well as you can . Then recheck the gasket and the surroundings in 100+ miles . Keep us updated on your findings . Thanks again .

[Hershey]

Found a 2007 YARIS sedan with about 35,000 miles that has the oily residue in the same area . Checked the left back corner of valve cover gasket for leaking and top of valve cover for spilled oil from oil change(s) and none to be found . So , most likely the head cylinder gasket . Think that's 12 so far . Years 2007 , 2008 , and 2010 . Haven't seen any '09s on lots to check on .

[wooverstone8]

I'm getting the oil changed on my Yaris soon. I'll have my mechanic take a look in that area. I'm kinda curious now.

[Hershey]

Earler we visited the friend that has the 2010 3 door . Checked on the oil leak and found plenty of fresh oil that ended up on fingertips of both hands . It has been a month or more since I checked it . The TOYOTA dealer that had the two 2010 5 door CERTIFIED Yaris with the oil leak were sold . Feel for those that bought them , at least they'll have the 7 year / 100,000 mile warranty . These are the cars that I showed the oil leaks to the sales people and the service manager . Money rules . :bow:

[auxmike]

I've since cleaned that area with a good shot of CRC brake parts cleaner and followed it with a water rinse from the garden hose, low pressure , of course!
It's spotlessly clean now. I've yet to spot any dampness/oil at all....

[Hershey]

That's good . Hope it remains that way .

[Hershey]

Checked our friends 2010 3 door and gathered plenty of fresh oil on my fingertips . Showed it to the wife . He doesn't plan to do anything about it . Afraid it might get messed up worse than it is .

[Hershey]

Our 2010 still leaks as well . :frown:

[Hershey]

Here's a pic taken earlier today . Car has 15,950 miles and there's about 3,600 miles on the O.C.. Will take antoher pic when it's due for O.C. in about 1,300 mis. or a month . Won't be cleaning it until the upcoming O.C. to see how much more oil gathers down the backside of the engine .

[yaris2010RS]

every time i see this thread has a new post i think oh god..... lol, i do find it to be a very interesting thread and concerning.

that oil leak still looks odd, i have never seen an engine with what appears to be a quite significant leak but so controlled. what kind of driving do u mostly do? (city or highway) has the 08 leaked at all again? i want to say double check all the hoses on the engine (PCV valve type hoses). i cannnot fathem how a HG leak would do that kind of oil patterning

[Hershey]

No hoses are leaking . It's a steady leak coming from the #1 cylinder of the head gasket as described so many times before . The '08 no longer leaks with the new head cylinder gasket .

[cabinfevrr]

could starting both cars out with synthetic motor oil at 1,500 miles be the culprit ? :iono: . Just seems odd that both have the same leak and are a few years apart . Can't think of any other reason .

^^ this.

A couple years ago, I decided I didn't want to be a car salesman anymore, and I quit my Job at Toyota. We always told people to NOT use synthetic oil until after your first maintenance service (your 4th scheduled oil change) - the engine has to be broken in on conventional oil. I'm not a scientist, or an engineer, but that is what we were instructed to tell people, when delivering the vehicle...any toyota vehicle for that matter. I have seen warranties ripped up because people put synthetic oil in after 5000.

the thing with breaking in on synthetic, is that we know the clearances that can be achieved with synthetics are closer than available with conventional oil. we told people that if you used synthetic oil too soon, your metal/metal areas would wear more than with convetional as conventional is more restrictive. i wouldn't be surprised if you start burning oil too.

for what it's worth, I have a 2008 Yaris RS model 5 door liftback (salesman had to have the most expensive yaris (: ), and after 70,000 kilometers, i have no oil leak where you indicated. I've stayed with conventional oil since day one, and although may be proven to be more restrictive, I change my oil every 8000 kilometers, I have no leaks.

You obviously bought your car new, did your salesman not mention synthetics when your vehicle was delivered? Regardless, it's in your owners' manual.

bottom line, after talking with a lot of toyota mechanics over the years, your car is designed to run on conventional oil. sure, it may work with synthetic, but you could probably also use auto transmission fluid or power steering fluid as oil too.

[Hershey]

Friends 2010 3 door with same oil leak has used nothing but conventional 5w-30 done at the TOYOTA service center where he bought it new . There's almost 60,000 miles on it .

[Happy Little Pony]

Your head gasket can't tell if you're using synthetic oil. The difference between a modern conventional oil and a synthetic isn't very large. The main advantages of a synthetic are that it pumps easier in extremely cold temperatures, it doesn't break down with high heat, and it has a more robust additive pack so it can stay in longer. None of these things will affect the head gasket.

The cause of your problem is surely something much more basic, like the head bolts didn't get torqued enough or the head gasket is defective.

Also, I really don't think synthetic is going to hurt the longevity of your engine. At worst, it's no better than conventional and you've wasted money paying more for it. It's just oil. A much more highly engineered and expensive oil, but still just motor oil. It's not magic engine juice.