Electrical Problems PS,A/C,RADIO,SPEEDOMETER,SIGNALS,AIR BAG LIGHT ON, ALTERNATOR

[toystory]

2006 Yaris Vitz 38 km....

About a week ago I used my Yaris and when I turned the car ON, the Power Steering light was ON. The Steering Wheel got really hard to make a turn. A/C wasn't working also, Radio, Signals and Speedometer were not working. Airbag light was also ON. Alternator was not charging when that happened. Yaris did turn ON and I drove it home that way which was about a 15 minute drive. When I got home and parked, before I turned OFF the car it started working fine again. The next day it did it again, when my wife wen't out and it worked fine until she turned it OFF, when she turned it back on, it did everything again so my wife turned it OFF right away and back ON and it was normal again, so she came home. The third time it did the same thing again, it cut off what I mentioned earlier. I took the Alternator OFF, took it to a place to be checked and they told me the Alternator was working fine and the Regulator! I installed the Alternator in the Yaris and it turned on fine so I haven't used the Yaris until I find out what's going on with the Electrical Problem it has.
Please, if anyone has had this similar problem or knows what the problem might be help me out, I don't have a Warranty or Guarantee from a dealer because I bought the car on the street! Thank You.

[CTScott]

2006 Yaris Vitz 38 km....

About a week ago I used my Yaris and when I turned the car ON, the Power Steering light was ON. The Steering Wheel got really hard to make a turn. A/C wasn't working also, Radio, Signals and Speedometer were not working. Airbag light was also ON. Alternator was not charging when that happened. Yaris did turn ON and I drove it home that way which was about a 15 minute drive. When I got home and parked, before I turned OFF the car it started working fine again. The next day it did it again, when my wife wen't out and it worked fine until she turned it OFF, when she turned it back on, it did everything again so my wife turned it OFF right away and back ON and it was normal again, so she came home. The third time it did the same thing again, it cut off what I mentioned earlier. I took the Alternator OFF, took it to a place to be checked and they told me the Alternator was working fine and the Regulator! I installed the Alternator in the Yaris and it turned on fine so I haven't used the Yaris until I find out what's going on with the Electrical Problem it has.
Please, if anyone has had this similar problem or knows what the problem might be help me out, I don't have a Warranty or Guarantee from a dealer because I bought the car on the street! Thank You.


Other than the alternator, with that broad of an issue, I would check the battery. If you have a volt meter, take some voltage measurements (off, running at idle, and at about 3000 RPM).

[toystory]

The Yaris battery is good even, with the problem, the car still turns on. The Alternator has also been checked as I mentioned earlier.
I wanted to know if the Alternator is controlled by the ECU.....

[CTScott]

The Yaris battery is good even, with the problem, the car still turns on. The Alternator has also been checked as I mentioned earlier.
I wanted to know if the Alternator is controlled by the ECU.....

No. It's not controlled by the ECU, but it puts out a pulsed signal to the ECM, the AC ECU, and the DRL to let them know if the alternator is generating power. That output signal is a function of the voltage regulator. The alternator could be generating power, but if that signal is being generated, then the ECM and the other systems that use that signal wouldn't think that it was. You'd need an oscilloscope to check for that signal.

[toystory]

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna try to figure out what's going on, I don't have much experience but that's what threads are for. TY!

[Stove]

Add any new electrical/electronic items lately? If not, I'd still look at the alternator. I've had alternators test out as being good when they weren't. Auto parts store told me it was good and out of desperation I replaced it anyway and it fixed the problem. It wasn't on my Yaris but the symptoms were similar.

[bst82551]

Have you checked your fuses?

[big lo]

First off when did the problem accure? Did you have some work done to the car that needed some cables installed? Did you buy the vehicle used? The fuse box should be checked, and the battery as well, if the car runs its not the alternater, has to be the battery it might be low in charge.

[YarisSedan]

:burnrubber::confused:
Yaris cut off PS. PS Light turned on, also got hard to turn, also cut off signals, a/c, radio, speedometer, and alternator. Everything at the same time! Air bag light also turned on. Car turns ON with everything mentioned above CUT OFF. Alternator has been checked and it's good and also regulator is good. If anyone has a similar problem let me know.:iono::evil:

Blown main fuse will make your dash light up like a christmas tree. I believe its attached to the power wire on top of the battery. I would check that first. Do you have any aftermarket equiptment such as a high powered stereo?

If it looks good when starting the car see if the check engine light completes its bulb test and turns on for a few seconds and then goes off. If it never lights up then that indicates a issue related to the computer.

[toystory]

I checked both fuse boxes. The battery is good, the car turns on because the battery is still charged. It hasn't gone dead.
I wan't to know that if in a normal working car, a person disconnects the alternator, the car is gonna cut off PS, SPEEDOMETER, SIGANALS, RADIO, A/C, AIRBAG LIGHT WILL BE ON? JUST A CURIOSITY! TY....

[toystory]

Have you checked your fuses?



CHECKED ALL FUSES....

[toystory]

First off when did the problem accure? Did you have some work done to the car that needed some cables installed? Did you buy the vehicle used? The fuse box should be checked, and the battery as well, if the car runs its not the alternater, has to be the battery it might be low in charge.


IT OCCURED ABOUT A WEEK AGO THREE TIMES. NO WORK WAS DONE FOR ANY NEW CABLES. YES, THE CAR WAS BOUGHT USED 2 YEARS AGO AND I NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS. BOTH FUSE BOXES WERE CHECKED. TY!

[brg88tx]

lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.

[toystory]

Add any new electrical/electronic items lately? If not, I'd still look at the alternator. I've had alternators test out as being good when they weren't. Auto parts store told me it was good and out of desperation I replaced it anyway and it fixed the problem. It wasn't on my Yaris but the symptoms were similar.

I only put a month and a half ago, 2 bulbs (lead) in the front for the signals and thats about it.
I wan't to know that if in a normal working car, a person disconnects the alternator, the car is gonna cut off PS, SPEEDOMETER, SIGANALS, RADIO, A/C, AIRBAG LIGHT WILL BE ON? JUST A CURIOSITY! TY....

[toystory]

lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.

no water pump replaced.

[CTScott]

I only put a month and a half ago, 2 bulbs (lead) in the front for the signals and thats about it.
I wan't to know that if in a normal working car, a person disconnects the alternator, the car is gonna cut off PS, SPEEDOMETER, SIGANALS, RADIO, A/C, AIRBAG LIGHT WILL BE ON? JUST A CURIOSITY! TY....

I'll try it on Crashy tomorrow morning and let you know.

[CTScott]

OK - I just finished doing some testing on Crashy and could not recreate the issue. I disconnected the alternator output (the large gauge wire going to the battery) and separately the alternator "signal" output (the 4 pin connector that gives the ECM, AC ECU, etc. info about the alternator state). In both cases Crashy started and ran fine, and everything worked (power steering, etc.)

So, based on that and my experience with us having a plant in Humacao, PR for a few years (and seeing things corrode like crazy even indoors), I would look at connector A27, which is the large black connector with a black and a white wire. It connects to the fusible link (the large plastic chunk attached to the positive battery terminal). The white wire supplies power to all of the body ECUs (AC, Power Steering, SRS, etc.)

34677


I would also check the other end of that white wire, which is a ring terminal (connector 1D), which is located on the bottom of the under hood fuse panel.

[toystory]

OK - I just finished doing some testing on Crashy and could not recreate the issue. I disconnected the alternator output (the large gauge wire going to the battery) and separately the alternator "signal" output (the 4 pin connector that gives the ECM, AC ECU, etc. info about the alternator state). In both cases Crashy started and ran fine, and everything worked (power steering, etc.)

So, based on that and my experience with us having a plant in Humacao, PR for a few years (and seeing things corrode like crazy even indoors), I would look at connector A27, which is the large black connector with a black and a white wire. It connects to the fusible link (the large plastic chunk attached to the positive battery terminal). The white wire supplies power to all of the body ECUs (AC, Power Steering, SRS, etc.)

34677


I would also check the other end of that white wire, which is a ring terminal (connector 1D), which is located on the bottom of the under hood fuse panel.

I'm gonna check as soon it stops raining and i will let you now.... ty! It won't be long.......

[toystory]

OK - I just finished doing some testing on Crashy and could not recreate the issue. I disconnected the alternator output (the large gauge wire going to the battery) and separately the alternator "signal" output (the 4 pin connector that gives the ECM, AC ECU, etc. info about the alternator state). In both cases Crashy started and ran fine, and everything worked (power steering, etc.)

So, based on that and my experience with us having a plant in Humacao, PR for a few years (and seeing things corrode like crazy even indoors), I would look at connector A27, which is the large black connector with a black and a white wire. It connects to the fusible link (the large plastic chunk attached to the positive battery terminal). The white wire supplies power to all of the body ECUs (AC, Power Steering, SRS, etc.)

34677



I would also check the other end of that white wire, which is a ring terminal (connector 1D), which is located on the bottom of the under hood fuse panel.

YOU WERE RIGHT CTSCOTT!!!!!!:thumbup:
I TOOK OFF THE PLUG WITH THE BLACK AND WHITE WIRE WHERE YOU SHOWED IN THE PICTURE, AND SOMEBODY HAD DONE SOMETHING BEFORE, (CAR WAS BOUGHT USED), THEY PUT THE WIRES BENDED INTO THE PLUG TO MAKE CONTACT.... SO I TOOK EVERYTHING APART OF WHAT WAS DONE BEFORE, AND WITH A PLIER I TIED UP THE CONTACTS AND SQUEEZED IT DOWN AND LEFT EVERYTHING HOW ITS SUPPOSED TO GO, SO I TURNED THE YARIS ON AND EVERYTHING IS WORKING PERFECTLY WELL, THANKS SO MUCH! I'M GONNA DRIVE IT AND IF ANYTHING ELSE POPS UP I'LL WRITE IT HERE, HOPEFULLY NOT!!!!!!:headbang:

[big lo]

I think this guy is a toyota employee, he knows to much. KUDOS CT, and thanks again. Holla at me.

[Stove]

Is it really that far to reach?

[toystory]

so far so good drove 40 mins., and around NO PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!

[Yarisduder]

Is it really that far to reach?

I'm pretty sure Toystory was yelling with excitement. :biggrin:

[toystory]

I'm pretty sure Toystory was yelling with excitement. :biggrin:
oh yes I saved some $$ and I learned something :clap::laughabove:

[cassioxp]

Fews days a go i turned my car on and all that hapened
im having the same kind problem with my yaris 2007
Power steering is not working
P/S light is on
Check engine light is on
A/C doesnt work
the speedometer doesnt work
I did a computer ckeck and a got the dtc P0500
Or fault speed sensor
I cant imagine how just a speed sensor can be doing all that

[CTScott]

Fews days a go i turned my car on and all that hapened
im having the same kind problem with my yaris 2007
Power steering is not working
P/S light is on
Check engine light is on
A/C doesnt work
the speedometer doesnt work
I did a computer ckeck and a got the dtc P0500
Or fault speed sensor
I cant imagine how just a speed sensor can be doing all that

I would suspect that the speed sensor is not the cause, but rather another symptom.

[aminda01]

i have a some sort of a similar problem.. i have a yaris sedan 2006.. i can start the car without any problem but sometimes the dash board starts blinking its very hard to see though but when you carefully look at it you can see that it blinking and then the steering weel gets hard to turn..

i'm wondering whats the problem is this problem starts when i on the radio.. its kenwood.. i used my car without using my radio for quite some time the problem didnt come.. but recently someone had on the radio on its stand by and the problem came yesterday again.. but when i off and start the car it becomes normal again..

[CanadianHiFive2]

i have a some sort of a similar problem.. i have a yaris sedan 2006.. i can start the car without any problem but sometimes the dash board starts blinking its very hard to see though but when you carefully look at it you can see that it blinking and then the steering weel gets hard to turn..

i'm wondering whats the problem is this problem starts when i on the radio.. its kenwood.. i used my car without using my radio for quite some time the problem didnt come.. but recently someone had on the radio on its stand by and the problem came yesterday again.. but when i off and start the car it becomes normal again..

THis is probably an issue with too much power being put towards your sound system, maybe try using a capacitor

[iamzombie]

My wife's 07 hatchback is having similar issues.

Intermittently her charging system or airbag warning light will come on, she says the headlights sometimes dim when driving at night (and sometimes work fine), and says her heater doesn't seem to work as well as it used to.

No mention of problems with power steering, radio, etc.

I checked the A27 connector CTScott mentioned, hers appears a bit different, but couldn't see any problems there. Anyone have any other suggestions?

[CTScott]

My wife's 07 hatchback is having similar issues.

Intermittently her charging system or airbag warning light will come on, she says the headlights sometimes dim when driving at night (and sometimes work fine), and says her heater doesn't seem to work as well as it used to.

No mention of problems with power steering, radio, etc.

I checked the A27 connector CTScott mentioned, hers appears a bit different, but couldn't see any problems there. Anyone have any other suggestions?

If the battery terminal wires are good, check the battery terminals for corrosion and also check the battery and alternator. With a multimeter you can measure the battery voltage with the car off (which should read 12.5 or more volts) and with the engine running (which should measure about 14.1 volts with the alternator spinning).

[iamzombie]

I checked the battery with a digital battery analyser at work, said it was good. Over 575 CCA, battery was putting out 12.3v w/ the engine off, at around 3k rpm it was slightly above 16v (high, I know, but wouldn't cause problems w/ dim lights, would it?)

Battery cables/terminals are clean and fuses are all good, ODB II reader returned no codes.

The car was in to the dealer for servicing earlier and they said the alternator was bad and needed to be replaced. (the symptoms didn't seems to correlate to their solution in my head, anyway. I'm an electronics tech in the military, but in no means an expert at vehicle electrical systems)

[CTScott]

16 volts is quite high. I think the voltage regulator within the alternator is bad.

[menz]

I would recommend checking the electrical board. couple of years ago i removed my ac fan to clean it and later that night my abs light turned on and some other stuff happened like the cabin light will turn on while braking ... etc. I took it to the service center i deal with and they have told me when i reconnected the fan i did it wrong which melted something and that was the cause of my trouble. I can not remember the issue exactly because it was long ago. I hope this could help.

[bzinn 1]

When I changed out my main ruse shown in CTscotts picture where the white wire and black wire were it was totally corroded....since I cleaned it and put some dielectric grese on them it is better than ever.I also had to change the main fuse out since I blew half of it.Car puts out more V now than when it was new...stays steady all day long with my amp on and everything at 14v before it was 12.9v.

[HighMilesForLife]

lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.

I hope someone else knows where this guy was going, since his post is 2 years old.... but I would answer YES to this question... that make a a difference?

I changed the pump, put everything back together, it started up nice n quiet now finally but:
Basically the only electrical devices that come on are the headlights. No tails, running lights, radio, heat n a/c, tire pressure light and P/S light are on. The battery light is NOT on so it is charging. Yes, I removed the alernator to do the job, of course, and NO I did not drop it or anything silly like that. This is the first time I I have ever had to work on this car.
If it makes a difference, I had to do this job after the water pump pully becoming so wobby it must have siezed for a decond and snapped the belt off at 75MPH.
Thanks for the help, anyone!

[CTScott]

I hope someone else knows where this guy was going, since his post is 2 years old.... but I would answer YES to this question... that make a a difference?

I changed the pump, put everything back together, it started up nice n quiet now finally but:
Basically the only electrical devices that come on are the headlights. No tails, running lights, radio, heat n a/c, tire pressure light and P/S light are on. The battery light is NOT on so it is charging. Yes, I removed the alernator to do the job, of course, and NO I did not drop it or anything silly like that. This is the first time I I have ever had to work on this car.
If it makes a difference, I had to do this job after the water pump pully becoming so wobby it must have siezed for a decond and snapped the belt off at 75MPH.
Thanks for the help, anyone!


I am thinking that you did not pull the battery connectors when removing the alternator? If that is the case you likely shorted the high current wire from the alternator to the battery popping one of the large fusible links that is molded into the positive battery terminal assembly.

[HighMilesForLife]

Correct, I popped the 120A fusible link for the alternator. before I figured out how to get the plastic cover off, I went to the Yota dealer with a different car and spent 30 mins not being able to find the correct part # to order, and no one knew what I was reffering to even with a pic. Not sure how theyd never seen this happen before. So, I bent the link back together with a screwdriver, its pretty strong metal so everything works in the car now. Those fusible links do not look removable to me....
So my questions are now, does anyone have the exact part # for the 120A fusible link on a 2008 Yaris? And also.. how the hell does that thing come out? It looks more sensible to just solder it and leave it alone, and making sure the battery is all unhooked before I start working on things in there. Is soldering a bad idea? It's already touching, so a proper solder job should not allow for over-amperage. Thanks again guys.

[CTScott]

They are not replaceable individually. You have to remove that section of the positive battery terminal to replace it.

The part is called the "block assembly, fusible link" and the part number is: 82620-52050
It is about $12.

[HighMilesForLife]

Okay, if the parts department in Albany does not figure that out at least I will have exact information to give them now. 12 bucks for that whole piece is decent. Thanks!!

[MuseManAzzu]

Hi guys, I've been experiencing the same issues as the OP with my 2007 Yaris Zinc.

I have tried taking a look at the connector that CTScott suggested however it seems clean and in good form (see photos).

With my problem I have no P/S, No Indicators (Signals), no speedometer, no reversing light, no wipers (front and rear) or washer, no AC, seatbelt warning sound goes off randomly and electric windows dont work.

Things that do work: Headlights, brakelights, hazard lights, radio/cd player, electric door mirrors, interior lights.

Sometimes the car will start up fine, P/S and such all working (malfunction light still on the dashboard though) but if you either put the car in reverse or use the wipers there is a clicking noise followed by all the other electrical components failing such as P/S etc.

I have checked every single fuse including the main fuse on the battery terminal, all are ok. My local garage have suggested the Alternator / Voltage Regulator. I check the output of the battery, it was 12V off and 14V when running which suggests the alternator is charging the battery (even though the battery light is displayed on the dashboard).

I have the car booked in for diagnosis on Tuesday but was hoping to find something that I may be able to repair myself before then to save on the no doubt humongous bill.

Any help would be much appreciated!

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http://s23.postimg.org/cdhnus0p3/image_1.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/cdhnus0p3/)

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http://s23.postimg.org/ixp1ev43r/image_6.jpg (http://postimg.org/image/ixp1ev43r/)

[CTScott]

If you look up into the wire entry end of the black connector, does it look good there? Also, how about up into where the black connector plugs into?

http://s23.postimg.org/cdhnus0p3/image_1.jpg

Another thing to check is on the face of the under dash fuse panel there is a very large black wire that plugs into a large one pin connector on the fuse panel. Check him and also take a voltage measurement on him.

[bruceisthecat]

lemme guess, your electrical problems started right after you replaced your failed water pump....riiiiight.


I just did that and now is happening to me, can't you help?

[rmshort]

I've been having major issues with my Yaris over the past few days, tried everything I could think of to get her back to a state of reliability. It started the other day when she stalled on me, so I replaced the battery, and then she continued to stall shortly after starting up again and again. The next day she started right up with a bit of starter fluid(through the MAF sensor port, MAF plugged in, resting in the crevice between the battery and airbox), which lead me to believe it was fuel related. Checked fuel pressure, and it was on par. Then when I hooked the fuel line back up, she started and ran again. I tried to get in and take her for a ride, only to find I could barely turn the wheel in P, and even more difficulty in D. Today I woke up and decided to go get new battery terminals. Hooked them up to the new battery and jump-started, after that no problems. It's been a very confusing few days, I can only hope she's done being difficult for a while.

[Oilhoots]

Im having similar issues with my car as well but from all CCT has been saying I'm guessing it's some kind of power issue some where along the wire or connections so a full inspection of it should lead me to the problem