Help with oil change specs

[autophile]

Hi all,

My stupid dealer didn't get the stupid manual (or a second key) for my 2007 liftback Yaris (U.S.), so I don't know what grade of engine oil, what oil filter, or how much oil to use in an oil change.

Through reading the forums, I've found the answer to two of the three questions: Use a 2005 Echo filter, and 5W-30.

But I still haven't found the answer to how much oil in an oil change?

Any help is appreciated! Thanks,

--Rob

[bigsky2]

See below:

[acrbill]

Did you buy the car new?

[bigsky2]

Yes I did.

That graphic was taken from the Service Manual, not the User Manual.

If you want the service manual go here:
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1768

Thanks to Violin for sharing the service manual.

[Yaris_Fan]

What does "dry fill" mean?

Do I need 3.9 US qts or 4.3 US qts to do an oil change?

[acrbill]

What does "dry fill" mean?

Do I need 3.9 US qts or 4.3 US qts to do an oil change?

I think that means if you rebuild the engine and your filling it for the first time.

You would only need 3.9 if you are doing an oil change.

[gonzo452001]

Should have 3 keys

[Racer X-8]

You don't have to ask for an Echo filter. All the parts stores know what a Yaris is by now. Just ask for an oil filter for a 2007 Toyota Yaris, they won't look funny at you. :smile:

[PetersRedYaris]

No one here knows what a yaris is. NAPA, Checker Auto., Best Buy, Etc.. Can't find oil filters or stereo install parts. This is partially why I use OEM filters.

[Racer X-8]

Really? :eek: Maybe you shouldn't tell people that :bellyroll: jk.

I just bought a filter from Advance Auto - it was an Advance Auto branded filter, because I like them, but I could have bought one of the others that were on their computer system - STP, Fram, uh, dunno - about eight different ones were listed, give or take - several...

Jeez, if they're out there, available from the filter manufacturers, why don't your stores have the ability to sell them? If they sell them in SC, why not SD?

For instance, http://www.partsamerica.com/Default.aspx get to oil filters for 2007 Toyota Yaris, a whole page full of different ones...

[eflb55]

No one here knows what a yaris is. NAPA, Checker Auto., Best Buy, Etc.. Can't find oil filters or stereo install parts. This is partially why I use OEM filters.

Ya I know. What I hate the most is when I walk into a Best Buy asking about install parts and they ask what car I have. I say yaris and they give me that annoying "i just sucked a sour lemon and feel pretty constipated" face.

[micromotion]

Ya I know. What I hate the most is when I walk into a Best Buy asking about install parts and they ask what car I have. I say yaris and they give me that annoying "i just sucked a sour lemon and feel pretty constipated" face.

Thats because you dont have a cutty with twenty fo's on it

[Tamago]

do my eyes deceive me, is this another oil thread? ;)

[severous01]

i dont know if that chart is wrong, or if my engine is smaller, or if i'm buying bigger bottles than everyone else but mine only takes about 3.25 q with filter change

and yes i know how to check my oil.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Yep, your not getting all your oil out. Using ramps? That'll mess it up. Mine usually takes 3 + 3/4 qt with a good long drain at various angles using a floor jack. Dont over fiil or it will dogg down.

[Tamago]

Yep, your not getting all your oil out. Using ramps? That'll mess it up.


isn't the drain port at the back of the pan? therefore if you drove the car up on ramps, the oil would be more poised to exit out the now-lowered oil pan bolt..

[talnlnky]

isn't the drain port at the back of the pan? therefore if you drove the car up on ramps, the oil would be more poised to exit out the now-lowered oil pan bolt..

dude... they do the ramps on the rear tires in texas... you know how everything is backwards down there. :biggrin:

[RedRide]

No one here knows what a yaris is. NAPA, Checker Auto., Best Buy, Etc.. Can't find oil filters or stereo install parts. This is partially why I use OEM filters.

Not even NAPA dealers? They are usually the gold standard for getting accurate parts.

[TheSilkySmooth]

Best filter ive used = wix 51396 - same as camry 2.4L. Best Oil = MTD 5w-30 snowthrower winter oil API SJ ( which is closer to the recommended SL on my fill cap than is SM GF4). This is for engine performance NOT validated by a used oil analysis - which itself in interpretation is oft fraught with misconcept and misconstrual.

[severous01]

Yep, your not getting all your oil out. Using ramps? That'll mess it up. Mine usually takes 3 + 3/4 qt with a good long drain at various angles using a floor jack. Dont over fiil or it will dogg down.

i'm using an alignment rack at the place i work. BMW/nissan/honda...so i know the car's level.

it doesnt really matter, when i check the stick after first turn on and shut down to check it's always on the line. and the oil is clean, just like it came out of the bottle...very little color change

but any way, it doesnt really matter. i change my oil at service interval and i'm using higher than standard oils, full synthetic so even if there's a quart left in there it's still not dead enough to change

[TheSilkySmooth]

Mobil 1 5w-30 is not full synthetic just 30%, Castrol Syntec has no synthetic in it, Valvoline Synpower has no synthetic in it - what "full synthetic" are you running? IN North American market, synthetic oil doesnt have to be real synthetic. Pretty much a joke - on us. High detergent / long drain "synthetics" can and do show higher engine wear than your 2 buck a litre conventional petrol oil. The detergents compete with the extreme pressure boundary additives (zinc compounds). High detergency is not a plus on a passenger car or race car.

[sbergman27]

Mobil 1 5w-30 is not full synthetic just 30%, Castrol Syntec has no synthetic in it, Valvoline Synpower has no synthetic in it - what "full synthetic" are you running?
If you are going to ask such a question, it seems like you might post a few links to sources which support your position.

I see this all the time. "This or that vendor's synthetic oil isn't really synthetic." But rarely do I note any sort of reference to credible sources making a clear statement on the matter, based upon clear evidence.

Besides that, I have to wonder why there's such a focus upon what's thought to be in the oil, and such a lack of focus upon how, empirically speaking, the oil performs relative to other oils.

That's why people become so weary of oil threads. There's always a lot of bluster by folks who imply they have the facts in hand. But rarely is there any actual meat to the claims.

-Steve

[why?]

Oil Thread! Oil Thread! Oil Thread!

Yay!!!

I'm so close to trying Amsoil, looks like it is worth a try.

[sbergman27]

I'm so close to trying Amsoil, looks like it is worth a try.
What criteria do you plan to use to evaluate Amsoil if you try it?

-Steve

[TheSilkySmooth]

If you are going to ask such a question, it seems like you might post a few links to sources which support your position.

... ...

That's why people become so weary of oil threads. There's always a lot of bluster by folks who imply they have the facts in hand. But rarely is there any actual meat to the claims.

-Steve If someone made a questionable or surprising statement, I too would ask their source and then perform some research, myself, to validate. The information is out there in foreign MSDS (typ Korea and Japan where full disclosure is required) The P/N are the same as North America, so we will assume its the same formulation. This issue to me is consumer deception and cost. The Mfg cost on a group III base stock are 1/2 that of a PAO or PO Ester. Europe does not allow such foolishness as labeling a conventional oil a synthetic. I would post the PDF file but EXxon-Mobil tends toward RTF HTML not downloadable PDF.

http://www.msds.exxonmobil.com/psims/AlternateFormat.aspx?Brand=XOM&DocumentID=635950&DocumentFormat=RTF

[RangerBEH]

See below:

thanks bigsky2 the post with the exact oil level was very helpful. I used just under the 4 quart mark for a change with filter and it gave me a oil level about 1/8 under the full line.

[N2scouting]

I use 4 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30 oil with a Purolator Pure One filter PL14476 from Advance Auto. I use ramps, oil filter wrench and a 14mm wrench to remove the drain plug. Advance Auto and Autozone will except the used oil for disposal.

[janders]

my 2010 sedan seems to take 3.25 with filter also which kind of puzzled me since it says 3.9 in manual.....i did notice when brand new it registered way over the full mark so....which should you go by......car was level when changing also

[Chuck G]

my 2010 sedan seems to take 3.25 with filter also which kind of puzzled me since it says 3.9 in manual.....i did notice when brand new it registered way over the full mark so....which should you go by......car was level when changing also

My 2010 was overfilled too.

[Chuck]

Mobil 1 5w-30 is not full synthetic just 30%, Castrol Syntec has no synthetic in it, Valvoline Synpower has no synthetic in it - what "full synthetic" are you running? IN North American market, synthetic oil doesnt have to be real synthetic. Pretty much a joke - on us. High detergent / long drain "synthetics" can and do show higher engine wear than your 2 buck a litre conventional petrol oil. The detergents compete with the extreme pressure boundary additives (zinc compounds). High detergency is not a plus on a passenger car or race car.

Here is a Castrol true synthetic that you can buy in the US, (I usually find it at AutoZone), but yeah its made in Germany. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=718643

[SKurj]

Well I put Agip full synth in my bike... BMW stealers sell a Castrol full synth as well... do ya really want to spend $20+ liter though...

I'd consider it if i didn't need 4 changes a year.. (and thats changing at 10,000kms intervals instead of 8,000 with synth)

[thepartsmancometh]

Well I put Agip full synth in my bike... BMW stealers sell a Castrol full synth as well... do ya really want to spend $20+ liter though...

I'd consider it if i didn't need 4 changes a year.. (and thats changing at 10,000kms intervals instead of 8,000 with synth)

bmw 5w30 retails for 6.25 here in central illinois. I buy it for about 5 per quart. the stuff thats $20+ is castrol motorsport TWS 10w60. thats only for the M cars, probably a little too serious for the yaris!

(I used to work parts for BMW when we still had the franchise)