Megan Header Install [pics]

[Chris07LB]

Special thanks to RICEBOY for heading up this Group Buy, and making it all go smooth. :clap:

Very easy to install, and with the correct tools, it can be installed within 30 minutes, to an hour taking your time.

First, here's how the two compare.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2477&stc=1&d=1165715955
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2478&stc=1&d=1165715580
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2479&stc=1&d=1165715955


Lets get started...

First remove the (4) 10mm bolts holding the heat shield to the stock header.

Next, jack up the car, and support it with jack stands at all four corners.

With a 3/4" drive rachet, 12" extension, and a 15mm socket, remove the (2) bolts holding the collector to the header. Crawl out from under the car, and under the hood remove the last (3rd) 15mm bolt holding the support bracket to the bottom of the header. Discard these bolts. You will be using the (3) replacement studs, washers, and lock washers included with the Megan header.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2480&stc=1&d=1165715955
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2481&stc=1&d=1165715955

Next a 1/4" drive rachet, 12mm socket, and a 12mm box wrench will be used to remove the (2) nuts and (3) bolts holding the stock header to the block.

Unplug the O2 sensor, and remove stock header.

Remove O2 sensor from header bung, and install onto Megan header.
Install new donut to Megan header, and new gasket to block.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2482&stc=1&d=1165716106

Install the (2) included studs on the collector. They will only thread on one way.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2485&stc=1&d=1165717779

Slip the header inside the car, and align the studs to slip into the collector. Snug up the collector with the included washers, lock washers and nuts (17mm). Install 3rd stud, washer and lock washer into support bracket.. sung up only for now.

Re-install the (2) nuts and (3) bolts to hold the new header to the block. Torque to specs. Now tighten the support bracket and collector nuts.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2484&stc=1&d=1165716106

Be sure to route O2 sensor correctly onto the metal hold bracket. This will keep the wires from touching the header and melting.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=2483&stc=1&d=1165716106

Enjoy it for a few hundred miles, then re-torque to specs again. :headbang:

[Black Yaris]

nice, I can't wait till tomorrow morn... kinda like Christmas :)

[acrbill]

What kind of power could you expect from that header? Would you say the new header is lighter than the old one w/heat shield?

I would have re-used that OEM MLS gasket. Far superior to the one that seems to have come with the header.

[Chris07LB]

I would have re-used that OEM MLS gasket. Far superior to the one that seems to have come with the header.

I was tempted to, as I have always used metal gaskets on all our engines with aftermarket headers, but I decided to test Megan's kit the way it is being sold. Hopefully they can get some feedback, either positive or negative from all the GB members. If it becomes an issue with leaks or blowouts, a simple swap for the stock metal gasket is 15 minutes away. :biggrin:

[spkrman]

sweet, looks very easy!

[eco]

Looks like the holes on the OEM gasket look bigger,better maybe.

[Chris07LB]

The size of the holes on the Megan header, match the included gasket perfectly.

[eco]

Then the new gasket should be better,interms of suface area and possible leaks,but deffinitly not as strong as OEM.

[CASTREX]

Sooooooo.... did you notice any improvements?

[ChinoCharles]

Other than sound, nobody is going to notice 5 hp...

We will have dyno numbers soon for this piece. I'll know when tomorrow.

[Fastnx]

Other than sound, nobody is going to notice 5 hp...

On a 108hp engine, yes you will.

I have never seen a picture of the stock header until now. If you are keeping the cat in the stock location, it is difficult to imagine being able to improve upon the stock unit by very much. The main difference seems to be the size of the tubing.

[ChinoCharles]

On a 108hp engine, yes you will.

Keep telling yourself that... :laugh:

[Violin]

Do you think you could have done it with only the front of the car raised? (I only have one pair of jack stands but I'm always looking for an excuse to buy more tools.)

[Chris07LB]

Do you think you could have done it with only the front of the car raised? (I only have one pair of jack stands but I'm always looking for an excuse to buy more tools.)

Yes.

[Chris07LB]

Sooooooo.... did you notice any improvements?

Actually, yes. The car seems much smoother to drive the entire powerband.
No real increase in sound with my stock exhaust, but it does feel a bit stronger when crusing at 65mph, then hitting the gas to pass a car.

Smooth, smooth is the best way I can describe it.. no laboring to get thru the gears.

[bigsky2]

I'm wondering if there is a better improvement on manual transmission as oppossed to automatic.

Can anyone comment?

[eco]

Chris,when you removed the old header,did you pull it out from the top,any trouble with tower bar installed.I tried to get Toyota to install it for warranty reasons,put they wont touch it,its not a TRD or SSC part,I was going to ask him what SSC was but I got into asking why he couldnt actually install an after market peice.So I guess Im going to do this soon,ohya Chris,you think it would be easier to intall my new crank pulley when the header is out,or should I just go ahead with the header install,because the pulley is coming straight from Japan,C-One was sold out in the US.

[skc]

installed mine today :cool:
installation is easy. straight forward. Thx Chris07LB for making even easier.
i got little annoying sound on accelleration and sometimes on shifting.
think i overtightened collector bolts. i'm going to check all the torque specs again tomorrow.
other than that i feel little gain on mid and high rpms. accellerates much smoother and little faster.
i didn't feel any loss at row. :thumbsup:

[Chris07LB]

Chris,when you removed the old header,did you pull it out from the top,any trouble with tower bar installed.I tried to get Toyota to install it for warranty reasons,put they wont touch it,its not a TRD or SSC part,I was going to ask him what SSC was but I got into asking why he couldnt actually install an after market peice.So I guess Im going to do this soon,ohya Chris,you think it would be easier to intall my new crank pulley when the header is out,or should I just go ahead with the header install,because the pulley is coming straight from Japan,C-One was sold out in the US.

First, remove any upper strut bars, you wont be able to reach any bolts, nor will you be able to pull the header out.

Second, the header has to come out from the top of the engine bay, there is no room to pull it thru the bottom... trust me, its small enough to slip it out once its all unbolted. :thumbsup:

Third, the crank pulley is on the passenger SIDE of the engine, right in the wheel well... the header is in the center REAR of the engine, under the windshield area. One placement has nothing to do with the other, so do your pulley and header install, in any order you wish. :thumbsup:

Hope this helps. :smile:

[KSIbucky]

you should post a DIY

[eco]

Dude,your reading it!

[riceboy]

I think most of the ppl who got are driving manual... anyone with an auto on the GB???

[eco]

Ya,me.

[Chris07LB]

you should post a DIY

:smoking: Puuuuuuufffffff.... puuffffff.... give. :smoking:

[bigsky2]

Isn't Chris' Yaris AT?

I only see two pedals in your Garage pics.

[Chris07LB]

Transmission: Slush Box

[bigsky2]

Chris, excuse my ignorance but can you explain what a Slush Box transmission is?

Is it a variation of an Automatic transmission or just a term that people use for AT?

[Chris07LB]

Chris, excuse my ignorance but can you explain what a Slush Box transmission is?

Is it a variation of an Automatic transmission or just a term that people use for AT?

What some people that love the sporty-ness of a manual trans, call an automatic.

Slush box = Automatic

[bigsky2]

Thanks for clearing that up!

I guess it's similar as to how MT are referred to as Stick Shifts?

[bigsky2]

BTW - Nice writeup and tutorial. :clap:

[hasher22]

Can u feeeeeel da powaaaa? seriously can u?

[Chris07LB]

Can u feeeeeel da powaaaa? seriously can u?

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=41473&postcount=15

[riceboy]

+1 on the ol' butt dyno for me... it really helps to open up the power on the top end... and I haven't noticed any loss on the bottom end.... i don't know if it's just me but 3rd gear seems to pull forever!

[Violin]

You really should post a DIY.

[Chris07LB]

You really should post a DIY.

Now there's an original idea.

[Notthy[Yaris/S]07]

where buy the header and what is the price? i want one for my sedan

[Notthy[Yaris/S]07]

eh heard that works of scion xa and xb its true?? somebody tried??

[Violin]

No the scion header won't fit.

[dngz]

Am i the last to install my header?? Getting it installed this sat with my full cat back exhaust...

[ChinoCharles]

No, I just went out today and got a hydraulic jack, some jack stands and a torque wrench. Might get to it tomorrow but I doubt it.

[punch]

Am i the last to install my header?? Getting it installed this sat with my full cat back exhaust...

cat back???? please share what you got??

[Chris07LB]

cat back???? please share what you got??

Take it to PMs guys... keep the DIY post on TOPIC. :thumbsup:

[Notthy[Yaris/S]07]

No the scion header won't fit.


thanx for the info jeje

[Katana]

Nice job there!Great DIY Chris.

[Chris07LB]

Thanks Kat.

[punch]

Take it to PMs guys... keep the DIY post on TOPIC. :thumbsup:
maybe you should get the mod to sticky the thread, and lock it then, this forum doesn't have rules, its like a free for all, ever since the mod allowed people to swear and such, this forum has lost much respect from me.

[Chris07LB]

By locking it, it would only get burried away, as it would never get bumped to the top, if knowone replied.

I do agree with you to a point though, but lets not get into it here, there is a section just for that.

Now back to topic! :cool:

[ChinoCharles]

OK, so I know you guys are wondering where the fuck the dyno results are.

Sunday rolls around and I pop open the install DIY and see that I need a 3/4 inch drive ratchet. Well, I decide I am going to try and torque those bolts off with a 1/2 inch drive, because I had honestly never seen a 3/4 inch ratchet and wasn't convinced I could easily find one. Took the heat shield off, got the car up on stands, and crawl under there... not happening. Chris wasn't kidding. You need some serious leverage for those collector bolts, as they are torqued to 32 lb/ft. Well, I go out and find a 3/4 inch drive ratchet at Autozone (surprisingly) but they don't sell any adapters or sockets for it. I then tried Sears hardware, regular Sears, Advanced Autoparts, Lowes, and Home Depot. Nothing. Called the dyno shop to see if he had one sitting around, and that was a big fat no. I was shit outta luck. So, I ordered a 3/4 inch female to 1/2 inch male adapter from Amazon.com and upon reception of that (should be here soon after Christmas) I will install the new header and go to the dyno shop.

Sorry for the teaser... of course the one tool I need seems to be a tool that you can't get without dropping thousands on a master mechanic's toolbox. God dammit. I'll update when I get the adapter and get the new header on. Sorry guys!

On the bright side, I now have a ratchet big enough to kill a large individual.

[Doc Zaius]

would an extender arm for the 1/2" ratchet not work? something to give you more leverage?

[ChinoCharles]

It may have, but then again I also may have broken the ratchet... that is a lot of torque to put on a tinny ratchet. I'm all for being patient and using the right tool for the job.

[bigsky2]

Good call.

Don't want a ratchet to fly in your face or ricochet off the car's underside if you are trying to loosen those bolts.

[H8SGAS]

It may have, but then again I also may have broken the ratchet... that is a lot of torque to put on a tinny ratchet. .

Been there in the past and broke the ratchet, good choice in waiting :biggrin:

[Chris07LB]

Where's my phone call? I would have sent you out the tool you needed. Silly wabbit.

[ChinoCharles]

Actually Chris, I did call you... haha. Its a 330 number. Save that shit.

[Chris07LB]

Actually Chris, I did call you... haha. Its a 330 number. Save that shit.

Word? Sorry Charles, did you leave a voice mail? Phones been acting a bit strange lately.

[ChinoCharles]

Naw, I didn't leave a voicemail. Its not a big deal homie, I've got the shit in the mail now! Thanks though, next time I'll leave one now that I know.

[ism3t]

no one else hearing a kind of sputterin noise? or similar to a lawn mower or car kart when they accel?

[Chris07LB]

no one else hearing a kind of sputterin noise? or similar to a lawn mower or car kart when they accel?

If your hearing that, you have a leak somewhere.. either at the collector, or the header gasket.

[mikeukrainetz]

why the specialty tools? why not use a breaker bar? its like 20 bucks at any parts store.

[Chris07LB]

Didn't think what I listed in my parts list, was anything special. Its a DIY ment to "help" in the install process, its not the bible on one way of doing something.

Depending on how high you can get your car off the ground (without a lift), its going to be hard to spin a breaker bar, with the limited amount or room you will have under the car. Everyone's different though, whatever works.

[ChinoCharles]

Somehow that adapter made it here in two days, so I finally started getting bolts off today. Got the collector bolts, the lower mount, and a few of the block bolts. Those fuckers are a PITA! Tight spaces everywhere!

Hey Chris or whoever else, how do you unplug the O2 sensor?

[Chris07LB]

Unplugging is simple. There will be a smallish tab to depress, then pull the halfs apart. I know its a bit hard to see it while your doing it, so you kinda just have to go by feel. Once its unplugged, you will relise how very simple it was. :smile:

[graywolf_14]

If you are wanting results than do exhuast aswell. A header or exhuast will give u minimal results unless doing them both.

[graywolf_14]

And as for feeling a difference with 5hp you really can. I put a k&n filter and removed my silencer on my dsm and could notice it. I than later removed my air box and could really notice a difference on the highway.

[jimcat]

Actually, yes. The car seems much smoother to drive the entire powerband.
No real increase in sound with my stock exhaust, but it does feel a bit stronger when crusing at 65mph, then hitting the gas to pass a car.

Smooth, smooth is the best way I can describe it.. no laboring to get thru the gears.

make a wish if i have one :wub:

[ChinoCharles]

FINALLLLYYYYYYYYY got it on.

Before you go asking "dude what the fuck took you so long" allow me to tell you. I had never performed a mod like this before, and every single nut and bolt and harness along the way was a new challenge, but in the end I can say I did it myself and I am now a little less wrenchtarded than I was before!

Thanks to riceboy for organizing the group buy, and a special thanks to Chris for writing the DIY and taking time out of his day to talk me through some of the more stressful parts of the install. There is absolutely NO WAY I could have done this right without you dude.

After driving around on it, I can officially say the car does not seem any faster during heavy loads, although I know by some minute fraction of a second it likely is. While driving normally, however, it felt like the engine had to labor a LOT less to get the car moving. Chris nailed it on the head... everything is just a little smoother now. There is also a nice little whoosh coming from the engine bay that wasn't there before. Overall, I'm stoked with the outcome, but I'm not done with this exhaust just yet! I'll have pictures of a new toy soon. Santa needs to get his ass here NOW!

A point of interest on the DIY... I had a lot more luck using a deep well 12mm socket on the two nuts holding the header to the block than I did using a 12mm box wrench. Actually I stripped them a tad with the box wrench and will be replacing them next week... hehe. Either way, that DIY was spot on. If you're like me and are just getting into modding four bangers, this is a good mod to start with to get your feet wet, and at a really reasonable price as well.

The holidays are screwing up my dyno situation, so everyone be patient. We will have results soon.

I'm going to go bandage my knuckles now. :biggrin:

[ChinoCharles]

One more thing...

http://www.meganracing.com/products/product_detail.asp?prodid=604&catid=67

$205 before shipping? And for a second I questioned whether or not we got a deal!

Riceboy... :bow: :headbang: :bow: :headbang: :bow:

[graywolf_14]

That is a really great deal, was that with the group buy or is that just what anyone would pay?

[ChinoCharles]

That is the new public price. The group buy price was $190 shipped... 15 bucks under MSRP!

[graywolf_14]

Yeah but 205 is still a great price. Seeming that the only thing you could posibly get cheaper is a pacesetter.

[03Z33]

Congratulations on the install Charles! I may have missed it, but did you already dyno your car stock, for a baseline?

[ChinoCharles]

I didn't. Since I had never done anything like this before, I had to install the new part first. Now that I know what I am dealing with, I get to take the new part off, put the old one back off, and then do it all over again! FUN! Hehe.

[03Z33]

Makes good sense :wink: This way you should get pretty reliable numbers :thumbsup:

[dngz]

with intake, header, and 2" catback exhaust, the gain i felt was huuuge!! my fuel economy also improved quite noticeably!

[ChinoCharles]

As promised...

SAY HELLO TO MY LITTLE FRIEND!

2612
2613
2614

$140 or so shipped. Megan's M-DF muffler, dual 3.5" tips with silencers.

[Chris07LB]

:evil: Merry Christmas fella's... Charles, got your PMs but just work up and about to have dinner.. ill write you laterz.

[ChinoCharles]

Just woke up, about to have dinner. LOL you fucking champ. Take your time, I'll be out till tomorrow evening.

[BokChoi]

just got done installing but have a quick question... is the heat shield suppose to be put back on the new header?

[joey1320]

As promised...

SAY HELLO TO MY LITTLE FRIEND!

2612
2613
2614

$140 or so shipped. Megan's M-DF muffler, dual 3.5" tips with silencers.



are you really plaining on using that for your car???
wow! I had something similar on my CRX before and it sounded horrible, good luck!

[ChinoCharles]

Since I bought it I have come to the realization this thing is WAY too big for a Yaris.

It is for sale if anyone is interested.

[Chris07LB]

just got done installing but have a quick question... is the heat shield suppose to be put back on the new header?


NO. :thumbdown:

Notice the picture doesnt have it....

[BokChoi]

cool thanks

[jamal1984]

just got done installing but have a quick question... is the heat shield suppose to be put back on the new header?

NO. :thumbdown:

Notice the picture doesnt have it....

if we don't put the heat shield back to the megan header, does the heat temperature will kill the engine?

[Chris07LB]

A thin soda can thick heat shield does nothing for the engine, its to help keep the skin on your fingers for retards that feel the need to poke around a hot engine bay without knowing.

[jamal1984]

thanks Chriss

[Chris07LB]

:thumbup:

[d4w1]

I have purchased and installed the same header. Except that the exhaust bolts and studs are too short. The correct size you need is 8mm x 1.25 x 30mm. Mr Gasket sell this correct hardware.

[Chris07LB]

I have purchased and installed the same header. Except that the exhaust bolts and studs are too short. The correct size you need is 8mm x 1.25 x 30mm. Mr Gasket sell this correct hardware.

If you were given hardware OTHER then what is pictured / noted in my post, which Im guessing you did... otherwise, whats included is perfect.

[cali yaris]

Now to the question, that Megan header looks pretty much exactly like the stock one from the pics. Are the interior surfaces and joints just smoother? What does Megan say the specific difference is? .. thanks...

[Black Yaris]

it is much larger diameter piping, and a much thicker flange

[tk-421]

Another question: Does this mod really do anything for performance? I've already read a few posts denying this.

[Black Yaris]

you get the HP in the higher RPM range, you need to do more mods like; the rest of the exhust and a good intake to get the full effect of the header

[Chris07LB]

Look at the pics again.. there is a night in day difference from the "look" of the stock pea shooter, compared to the Megan.

[cali yaris]

sounds like a worthwhile mod overall. thanks for the DIY post and subsequent tips on installation. I'm glad it's not that much louder (if at all?), that would make me hesitate to do this.

[Yaris Omega]

yo chris whats your next project for your yaris

[Chris07LB]

yo chris whats your next project for your yaris

Well being this is still just my work beater car, I'll still being doing more upgrades as I work with a few places putting out some fresh new products to test. Keep an eye out for some pretty cool shit this summer from me. :cool:

[Blenjar]

I might buy one next week since it helps in mid and higher RPM..which is what I need for my daily highway driving.

-- Blen

[tk-421]

I'm still waiting on a 4-2-1 header to come out.
I've heard from a reliable source that it might be in the works as we speak... :eek:

[ToTo]

TRD's got one, doesn't it or is it only 4-1 as well?

[tk-421]

TRD's got one, doesn't it or is it only 4-1 as well?

TRD's Vitz header is a 4-1:
http://trdparts.jp/english/parts_exhaust.html

[Chris07LB]

Weapon R has my stock header for months now.. i guessing they will have their 4-2-1 complete and on the market shortly.

[cali yaris]

OK, so I got my Megan header on today.

1. It's a lot louder.
2. It "feels" like there is more mid-range pull.
3. It really is louder.

As soon as I have enough miles on my car, I'm going to do a few dyno pulls to see where she's at.

[whooppee777]

what should the bolts be torqued to? i just ordered my headers today. cant wait!:headbang:

[BlackMan_Ink]

OK, so I know you guys are wondering where the fuck the dyno results are.

Sunday rolls around and I pop open the install DIY and see that I need a 3/4 inch drive ratchet. Well, I decide I am going to try and torque those bolts off with a 1/2 inch drive, because I had honestly never seen a 3/4 inch ratchet and wasn't convinced I could easily find one. Took the heat shield off, got the car up on stands, and crawl under there... not happening. Chris wasn't kidding. You need some serious leverage for those collector bolts, as they are torqued to 32 lb/ft. Well, I go out and find a 3/4 inch drive ratchet at Autozone (surprisingly) but they don't sell any adapters or sockets for it. I then tried Sears hardware, regular Sears, Advanced Autoparts, Lowes, and Home Depot. Nothing. Called the dyno shop to see if he had one sitting around, and that was a big fat no. I was shit outta luck. So, I ordered a 3/4 inch female to 1/2 inch male adapter from Amazon.com and upon reception of that (should be here soon after Christmas) I will install the new header and go to the dyno shop.

Sorry for the teaser... of course the one tool I need seems to be a tool that you can't get without dropping thousands on a master mechanic's toolbox. God dammit. I'll update when I get the adapter and get the new header on. Sorry guys!

On the bright side, I now have a ratchet big enough to kill a large individual.
Chinocharles how much was the 3/4 to 1/2 connector piece?...I'm having the same problem getting the bolt off the bracket...all the other bolts came off easy but there's no room in the damn compartment to move the ratchet and hold the wrench to the nut on the other side of the bracket...plz help another noob mechanic.

[Nabisco]

I really don't mean to pee in anyone's Wheaties but I would rather pay more for the TRD unit, or one from a real manufacturer. Megan stuff is designed to make money not power. I have seen several of their manifolds fail. It is cheap mass produced Chinese merchandise.

[BlackMan_Ink]

I really don't mean to pee in anyone's Wheaties but I would rather pay more for the TRD unit, or one from a real manufacturer. Megan stuff is designed to make money not power. I have seen several of their manifolds fail. It is cheap mass produced Chinese merchandise.

Fail how? Does TRD make a manifold for the Yaris?

[Chris07LB]

Chinocharles how much was the 3/4 to 1/2 connector piece?...I'm having the same problem getting the bolt off the bracket...all the other bolts came off easy but there's no room in the damn compartment to move the ratchet and hold the wrench to the nut on the other side of the bracket...plz help another noob mechanic.

Home Depot or Lowes will have them for around 5 bucks.

[largeorangefont]

I should have the DC header on my car by the end of the week.

[Chris07LB]

Nice! :thumbup:

Make a new post an tell us all about it. Im up for a change if its worth the time changing it.

[largeorangefont]

I get the car back Thursday..I'll have lots of pics of whatever they have put on it.

[Terrorize]

Hmm...i saw the DC header...looks good too...i'm actually in the market for a header...

I was on DC Sports website and was surprised at all the parts they have for my yaris S sedan!

Header, Exhaust, and front and rear strut bar...

Questions is...which company would make a better header? DC or Megan??

[BlackMan_Ink]

Home Depot or Lowes will have them for around 5 bucks.

Thanx, I couldn't find one @ either of those so I got to feel like a dumbass when I went to PepBoys and they had it. Got my pair of headers on getting the exhaust this weekend...I hope...thanx again from another wrench-tarted tuner fiend.

[BlackMan_Ink]

Hmm...i saw the DC header...looks good too...i'm actually in the market for a header...

I was on DC Sports website and was surprised at all the parts they have for my yaris S sedan!

Header, Exhaust, and front and rear strut bar...

Questions is...which company would make a better header? DC or Megan??

I chose Megan cause DC header is ceramic coated and I didn't want to pay extra to keep the heat down knowing I just want a more powerful daily driver. I don't plan on hitting the track any time soon.

[BlackMan_Ink]

Has anyone checked out the ARP 12mm bolts for their headers. I wasn't too happy with the bolts that shipped with the headers, and I know ARP makes performance bolts for a stronger connection.

[largeorangefont]

So my car is done, I pick it up tomorrow. It will have a header and strut bars, but no axleback supposedly. I was kind of hoping for the axleback, I saw the pics of the prototype on my car and it looks good, but I guess it is not ready quite yet.

I'll post pics tomorrow after I get it back.

[Nabisco]

Questions is...which company would make a better header? DC or Megan?

Megan is made in China and usually pushed by any local shyster
so you should be able to locate one easily and just look at the welds, quality, and thickness of the medal used.

DC sports has made a great header for Honda applications in their days. I used to have one and yes, it was ceramic coated. I never had any problems with it or the hardware and gasket it came with.

There is a TRD unit finding it shouldn't be a task. It should be as good as most any Toyota parts and it won't void your warranty if installed by Toyota or Toyota authorized mechanic.

Both DC Sports and TRD units were designed with power gains in mind. The Megan unit, I don't know.

[RShatchback]

At the local shop that I buy parts from - there is one other liftback that goes there (I have yet to see it) But when i was talking to my buddy the day i picked up my Greddy exhaust..he said the kid ordered the megan header and ended up coming back to them later complaining there was an exhaust leak that wouldnt go away - they removed it at the shop and it was cracked..

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

that ends my wanting a megan one now......

[CASTREX]

Megan is no good. I think all agree. But.... I just got one for $49.95 + $29 shipping. :thumbup: It doesn't say Megan, but who cares if is the same piece that is retailing at almost $200 in other stores. So if it breaks or leaks is not that big of a deal. To make it better I also found for $20 some Tech Line header ceramic coating. Looks like a pretty easy DIY (painting the header).


About the DC header I would really like to see detail pictures of it. I was looking at the DC ceramic coated header for the Scions (Xa/Xb) and it looked the same as some e-bay knock-offs that retail for less than $50 except for the ceramic coating.
So I hope the DC header for the Yaris is not just a Megan (aka Chinese piece) ceramic coated.

Shoot some pics please!

[Chris07LB]

Back on topic fella's.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

oh yeah the topic, MEGAN SUCKS

[Chris07LB]

oh yeah the topic, MEGAN SUCKS

Such a tool..

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

WHAT did i say something wrong?????

[Chris07LB]

:tongue: :tongue:

[Tylermayer]

One more thing...

http://www.meganracing.com/products/product_detail.asp?prodid=604&catid=67

$205 before shipping? And for a second I questioned whether or not we got a deal!

Riceboy... :bow: :headbang: :bow: :headbang: :bow:
i got mine for .99 + 30 shipping on ebay

[Chris07LB]

It's also THREE years later.

[cali yaris]

^ since you've posted? :tongue:

[JumpmanYaris]

It's also THREE years later.

LMAO

[Bluevitz-rs]

is that 99 cents plus $30 for shipping? Sweet deal!!!

[Chris07LB]

^ since you've posted? :tongue:

LMAO! :bellyroll:

Whats happening Garm? :drinking:

[Astroman]

LMAO! :bellyroll:

Whats happening Garm? :drinking:

Holy crap! You're alive! :eek:

[Chris07LB]

Holy crap! You're alive! :eek:

Alive and well, thanks. :headbang:

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Yeah, where the heck have you been?