Droning noise, bearing suspected.

[Beer Jammer]

Hi All.
I have a 2001 yaris LB. Its recently developed a low pitch droning noise. happens at 20mph+ and is constant in pitch and doesnt change if I drop out of gear or depress the clutch.
I am reasonably sure its a front wheel bearing as the car has also started to clunk when moving on full lock.
Is swapping out the front bearing a DIY job (I have reasonable skills) or a job that will need a professional?

[evo165]

Changing out the wheel bearing don't really need to have the professional skill or whatsoever. But we'll need to have the equipment, called Hydraulic pump/jack to press out the old bearing out & then pump in the new one.

If you love DIY, you can always remove the knuckle arm yourself & bring along your new bearing for workshop who have the pump to change the bearing out for you. :wink:

[Beer Jammer]

Thanks evo, sounds like a plan to me. I am going to remove the wheels later today and have a look around. My other half reminded me today that a few weeks ago I drove over a big twig (about 12 inches) that I had to pull out from the underneath of the car because it got wedged, so I am going to do an inspection for debris.
With a rumbling bearing, I would expect it to get louder over time/miles. Do you think it should sound louder after 200 miles or so?

[auxmike]

It's a 2001?
What's the mileage?

[evo165]

No problem beer. As time gone by, the rumbling bearing noise will get it louder & louder till at almost all speed range.

For my case, my 06 yaris wheel bearing start to give out sound only at certain speed (around 30 mph constant), anything slowler or faster it very difficult to hear it anymore. But still, i change it out the old bearing to stop the disturbing sound at 30mph. :biggrin:

P.S. If you gonna DIY, just to make sure that you carefully remove the ABS sensor(if your ride have it) from the knuckle arm and to clean it with rag to remove any dirty stuffs. If not, you'll have the risk of having ABS check light if is dirty & not install correctly.

[severous01]

check the alignment and chck tires for cupping. that's the most likely with under 100k miles unless you seriously take corners like a bugatti or somethin.

[Beer Jammer]

Severous:
Sorry, not familliar with the term 'cupping'. Its not commonly used in the UK, could you explain please? :redface: the car has done 78,000 miles.
I have also noticed that the noise is stronger on a right hand turn and almost goes away completely on a left hand turn.
As suggested I'll get my alignment checked.

A quick update.
I removed the wheel yesterday, and I couldnt see any obvious signs of bearing wear. there is no lubricant leak or any excessive movement when shaking the wheel side-to-side. I noticed something odd though, the brake disc seems to be only secured in place by the wheel. Most brakes I have worked on have a screw to hold them in place and there are holes for it on the disc, but not on the hub. I have attached a pic of it below. Although the disc has a hole for a screw, there is no threaded hole in the hub to take it. Is this normal?

http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/zz287/bagpuss0001/Forza%203/YarisSR/Wheelresized.jpg
http://i836.photobucket.com/albums/zz287/bagpuss0001/Forza%203/YarisSR/Wheelresized.jpg

[WeeYari]

^

There are no actual fasteners for our discs. They are free floating on the hub and held in place with wheel lugs only. Those holes are for threading in a M12 (I think) bolt to free it from the hub if rust happens to have seized it on there. To remove the disc, you only need to remove the caliper assembly. The disc is then free to pull straight out.

[MUSKOKA800]

If it clunks while turning you may have a CV join going away.
And as you may be aware, CV joints are full of bearing so this may account for your droning sound as well. Check the CV boots for damage. This would be an indicator of trouble inside due to contamination and loss of lubrication.

Good Luck!

[Beer Jammer]

Ok, I know I should get this to a mechanic for a full diagnosis, but I cant do that until after the weekend.
A few more symptoms to describe:
Along with the droning there is a slight vibration that can be felt through the pedals and on the front footwell floors. Not a strong one, but quite a high frequency.
The driveshaft has some play on the lateral plane, (see below), but only about 2mm.
I havent heard clunk in the last week, (200 miles), and no damage to the CV boots.

[rob323]

How worn down are your front and rear tyres? Drones and vibrations can often be caused by worn tyres.

I replaced the bearings on mine at 120 000kms. There was no play in them but when turning slow corners on full lock, I would get a clicking sound. I replaced them and the noise was gone.

[Beer Jammer]

When Jacked up, each wheel except the front left, (passenger side on a RHD car), turns smooth and relatively quiet. The suspect bearing wheel is not silent, and the drone can be heard. As its off the floor, I guess it cant be the tires.

[Beer Jammer]

Quick update.
Car was in the mechanics on Monday this week just before a trip away, it was the bearing as suspected. Now replaced and back to normal. :-)

[fj40dave]

My right front wheel bearing is toast......took a look at it tonight - wobbly.

I have a hand held temperature checker - it was 214 degrees when I got home (before I tore it down to figure out what was causing the heat-up problem.

Luckily, I bought the 75k mi extended warranty ($900!) back in 2008 and I have 70,916 on the Yaris.....calling the 10800 # in the morning!

Dave

[marcus]

anyone know if one can just replace the whole front hub assembly so you dont have to pry out the bearing?

[tmontague]

Back from the dead...

I believe that is how most are done now a days. When I searched in the past out of curiosity for Yaris wheel bearings they are mostly sold as the hub assembly. You'll still want an air chisel and a ton of PB Blaster to help you get the hub off the car. At least I did for the rear when I installed my spacers, not too sure if the fronts are similar or not

[Bluevitz-rs]

the front is simple the tie rod end, lower ball joint and strut holding it on after the axle is out.