Zage Turbo Kit Install - Toyota Yaris

[Focus_Sh1ft]

*Would really appreciate if a mod could sticky this. I want this to be SEEN. Thanks

Alright guys, here it is as promised – the ZAGE Turbosystems install guide for the Toyota Yaris.

I was obliged by Zage to put this together, but I'm really hoping this helps some people take the plunge like I did. It's very much worth it in the end. Even for those that don't use this kit, there should be a lot to learn from checking out this guide.

I also feel it's necessary to point out that the quality of this kit is superb (well, for the most part). There were a couple fitment issues, but nothing was a deal breaker. People may say sucky things about their turbos, but I'm quite happy with it. I haven't had any problems with it, and it's the perfect size for our small cars.

Before I get into the actual install, I’d like to point some things out. To begin, this should be the LAST thing you do. Whether you followed my pre-install guide(http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30813) or not doesn’t matter, but all the things listed in there are a necessity to getting boosted successfully (turbo timer being the potential exception). *YOU NEED TO CHANGE TO A SMALLER GAPPED SPARK PLUG. I swapped in NGK BKR7EIXs with a .032" gap. If you don't you're going to have misfires at mid/heavy load.

Also – this is an incredibly lengthy and difficult installation. If you’re on the fence about all the work required to pull this off, stop here. You need to WANT this. You need to want this more than the fat nerdy kid wants to lose his v-card by the end of senior prom. Yeah, THAT MUCH. You’re going to get so worn out and sore and get soooo many cuts (my hands are still healing). You’ll get over it though, because I can safely say the end justifies everything. I would say it took me approximately 4 six-hour days to finish the install. Troubleshooting and leak diagnosis made it take a couple days longer.

Mechanical expertise would probably be a plus, but is not at all required. I’ve never done anything this involved before, but I made it work. As long as you’re not a total idiot, and are capable of learning and using your brain, you’ll be fine. Luckily for you, I’ve already done most of the thinking during my install. However, something this complicated has many variables that are going to vary from install to install. This is where that brain that is required comes into play.

Tools… ARE EVERYTHING. You need tools, lots of tools. Tools, tools, tools. TOOLS. They’re kind of important. The more the better. I ended up borrowing some, because the difference between having the right tool and not having the right tool are staggering. The absolute necessities are a metric and English socket set (any ratchet size should be fine) and a metric and English wrench set (preferably open and box). Some larger Philips and flat head screwdrivers will be needed as well. Pliers for a couple of OEM clamps, and exacto knives for cutting hoses and misc uses. A hacksaw will also be needed in a couple of places. You’ll be needing a drill with (preferably) a set of bits. I didn’t really note which ones I needed. Definitely a rubber mallet and some sort of pipe for leverage on wrenches / ratchets. A M4 female torx socket or vicegrip will be needed eventually. I think that covers what I used MOST of the time. Beyond the wrench and socket sets, you could possibly replace the others with other tools if you’re creative enough. Oh, and of course an oil drain pan and funnel.

Here are the following items you should have on hand before beginning the install:
-Permatex Ultra Black Silicone Sealant
-Teflon Paste (USE ON ALL THREADS THAT SEAL HOLES)
-Paper towels
-Zip Ties
-Some sort of mounting brackets (see STEP THIRTY-THREE)
-A SERIOUS drill bit (about ¼”) (see STEP THIRTY-THREE)
-Tooth picks (or similar; used to spread silicone)
-Exhaust Wrap
-3x 5/16” nylon tees
-6-8 feet of rubber hose (fuel hoses should work for vacuum and coolant)
-8x Small hose clamp (Advance Auto part #7090227)
-2x M8-1.25 x 40MM (could be shorter) hex bolt (CB#36008) -> Intercooler
-2x M12x1.25 to 1/8" NPT female*
-2x 1/8" NPT male to 5/16" barb (Advance Auto)*
-AC refrigerant**
-Code Reader***

*Only needed if water cooling turbo. Skip step 19, 45, and 47 if you're not water cooling the turbo.
**You may need to move the AC lines to fit the turbo in. You’re welcome to find alternatives, but it’s easier to just drop $20 so they can be moved and recharged afterwards. Some people have done it without moving them, but I still don't understand how.
***In retrospect, I made a huge mistake not having a code reader immediately handy. You’re very likely to get codes for one reason or another, and it’s vital to know what they are. Don’t be like me where you’re driving back and forth between Advance Auto just to have codes read.

PAY CAREFUL ATTENTION TO UPDATES.


STEP ONE:
---Remove engine cover
-It’s held on by 2x 10mm capped hex nuts.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/EngineBefore.jpg


STEP TWO:
---Remove exhaust shield
-There are 4x 10mm bolts, two up top (use a socket) and two at the bottom (use a box wrench).
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/GayBolt.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ShieldOff.jpg


STEP THREE:
---Unbolt OEM manifold
-I believe there’s 3x 10mm bolts and 2x 10mm nuts at the sides (if not, they’re 12mm). You should be able to reach everything with just a socket and the necessary extensions. If not, use an open/box wrench. Save these, we’ll be reusing them.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/Mani-Bolt.jpg

STEP FOUR:
---Unplug the O2 sensor.
-The plug is mounted on a metal perch at the back right side of the engine. Unplug it.

UPDATE: I had a talk with my tuner who works on my other car regarding leaving an O2 sensor in while unplugged. If you're going to be tuning in open loop with an unplugged O2 sensor (like I did), remove the O2 sensor from the piping. The carbon builds up heavily on the sensor since the heater is no longer functioning and will cause it to completely fail eventually.


STEP FIVE:
---Jack up the car


STEP SIX:
---Unbolt the header from the exhaust system
-You need to be under the car to do this. There are 2x 14mm bolts (TIGHT) that are backed by springs. Here’s a picture of them, and the best way to get at them. The picture is slightly unclear, but I basically used an extension that allowed me to clear the black frame under the primary cat. Use leverage and a rubber mallet.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/DownpipeFitment.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/BestPlacetoTightenDownpipe.jpg


STEP SEVEN:
---Remove 2x black frame header supports
-Removing these sucked so bad… They have to come out as well. The longer frame piece is held on by 2x 14mm bolts, and the squarer frame (with the x shaped engraving) is held on by 1x 12mm nut and 1x 12mm bolt. These bolts are excessively tight, and incredibly difficult to reach. The approach I take in these kind of situations is to first try to get a socket on it, apply some leverage, and hammer the leverage with a rubber mallet if possible. If not, I resort to the box wrench. Open wrench last. Also keep in mind, and this will come in handy later as well, that you can use a normal socket on a nut that would usually require a deep socket. Just put the socket on, then push the square connector into the socket as far as it will go. On EVERY nut in this install it will be able to engage the socket enough to tighten/loosen the nut.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/DownMount1.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/DownMount1-Out.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/DownMount2-Out.jpg


STEP EIGHT:
---Lower car


STEP NINE:
---Remove header assembly
-We unbolted everything attached to it so work it out of the engine bay. Make sure to take the gasket off and save it for later. In all honesty, I didn’t even realize there was a gasket and ended up putting it in later.
http://http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/HeaderOut.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/HeaderOut2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/ExhaustGasket.jpg


STEP TEN:
---Remove O2 sensor from header bung
-I used a 7/8” box wrench (yes, it fits over the plastic connector). I put the header on the ground, put one foot on it, then used a rubber mallet to get the sensor bolt moving.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/O2-Sensor.jpg


STEP ELEVEN:
---Remove vacuum hose
-Back right side of engine. This needs to be moved out of the way for when we mount the turbo. In the picture, it’s the hose that runs behind the beige plastic connector.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/EngineVacuumHose.jpg


STEP TWELVE:
---Remove O2 sensor perch
-I don’t know if this is totally needed, but there really won’t be a need for it. Plus, it’s in the way. You may actually need to remove this sooner to have clearance to get the OEM manifold off. The bolt is 14mm and cannot be wrenched off until you hit the perch a few times with a regular hammer (otherwise the bottom of the bolt is touching the perch).


STEP THIRTEEN:
---Move AC lines
-Loosen the 10mm bolt that holds them in. More than likely, the o-ring will blow on the upper line and leak refrigerant everywhere. If not, just loosen the bolt and pull the line out and step back. Next, we need to remove the 10mm nut that connects on the upper line (its near the wiper fluid tank). Lastly, remove the 10mm bolt that mounts the lower line (its near the alternator). It’s too hard (and unnecessary) to remove the lines, so just move them to the side, placing them in front of the ECU.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/ACbolt.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/UpperACNut.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/AC-LinesMoved.jpg


@At this point, you’ve pretty much removed all the necessary parts. It’s time to begin assembling the turbocharger. Bust out the Zage kit.


STEP FOURTEEN:
---Mount turbocharger onto manifold
-Make sure the turbocharger is oriented downward. The tabs on the manifold should face upward. Put the flange between the manifold and turbo, then place the bolts in and get them threaded by turning them with your fingers. Take a ½” wrench and tighten them to the point where they won’t turn anymore.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ManiTurbo2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ManiTurbo.jpg


STEP FIFTEEN:
---Mount downpipe on turbocharger
-Same procedure as mounting the manifold. Make sure you place the flange between the downpipe and turbo first. Then use the four black bolts that have nuts on them. The short side of the bolt is the side that goes in. Tighten the bolts with a ½” wrench.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ManiTurboDown2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/Down-Flange.jpg


STEP SIXTEEN:
---Place O2 sensor in Zage downpipe bung
-Use a 7/8” box to get this tight. If you’re installing a wideband sensor as well, you’d have to open the other bung with an allen wrench (size: M10). Also - the AEM UEGO sensor is a perfect fit in the other bung. Use 7/8" open to tighten it.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ManiTurboDowno2.jpg


STEP SEVENTEEN:
---Attach oil return line adapter to turbocharger.
-Grab the silver adapter bolt, two of the brass screws, the ovular adapter plate, and the black foam(?) flange (the one with the tab on one end). Put the flange in place, then bolt on the adapter plate with the 2x 10mm (?) brass screws. MAKE SURE THESE SCREWS ARE TORQUED EVENLY. I had a leak because they weren’t. Would also suggest putting some silicone on the part of the flange that faces up. I then used a 7/8” box wrench to tighten the adapter nut in place. Next you need to connect the 45 degree brass elbow. I got it tight by gripping it with pliers. Lastly, connect the oil return line to elbow (it’s the thicker steel braided line), and tighten by hand. Then get it tight using a 15/16” open wrench.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ReturnAdapter-Tighten.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ManiTurboDownReturn.jpg


STEP EIGHTEEN:
---Attach oil feed banjo bolt to turbocharger.
-This thing was a pain to get tight, and ended up being pretty leaky for me in the end. Anyways, you need to put the bolt through the loop on the banjo bolt, then thread it into the turbo. There needs to be one washer on each side of the loop. Tightening this thing is near impossible, but if you spend some time working at the 17mm bolt with an open wrench, you can still get it pretty tight. Attach the oil return line, and then tighten it using a 9/16” wrench.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/WeirdFeedBolt.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/FeedAdapter.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%201/ManiTurboDownReturnFeed.jpg

*It’s very likely you’ll be needing to disassemble the turbocharger to get the banjo bolt tight enough (A 17MM SOCKET WILL NOT FIT). In fact, I’d recommend it, because it’s the reason why I had to pull my turbocharger off the engine. The clamp that holds the turbine and compressor housings together needs to come off (it’s 10mm). There’s also a clip that holds the actuator arm in place. Just make sure when you put them back together that the compressor inlet is facing the exact same way as it was before (you can do this by keeping the actuator arm straight).
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboApart4.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboApart3.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboApart2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboApart.jpg


STEP NINETEEN:
---Attach coolant line adapters (if using water cooling)
-Assuming you’re water cooling the turbo, and you should be, connect your 1/8” barb to the M12 female adapter. Now, based on my experience, I would recommend only placing the one adapter in that will be facing downwards. If you place both in, one ends up getting caught on the engine/firewall as you try to fit the manifold / turbo / downpipe into the engine bay. Feel free to try placing both in though. Also, attach your coolant line to the bottom adapter now, otherwise it’ll be impossible to reach later. I used a small t-clamp here.. You don’t need a hose on the top adapter for now, but the bottom one will need about three feet of hose.


STEP TWENTY:
---Mount the turbocharger assembly to the engine.
-With all the above crap we removed, this should only require a bit of wiggling to get it behind the engine. Once you have it approximately in place, hang the manifold flange from the two stems that the manifold bolts to. Then, attach the manifold using the OEM bolts and nuts. Just get the bottom two hand tight, but get the two nuts and one bolt in the middle top tight with a wrench/socket now. The former two bolts need to be tightened from underneath the car, so we’ll get back to that later. Don’t worry about plugging the O2 sensor in quite yet.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/TurboFits.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/TurboMounted2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/TurboMounted.jpg


STEP TWENTY-ONE:
---Raise the car


STEP TWENTY-TWO:
---Trim one of the exhaust bolts (the ones with the springs)
-So the downpipe is ready to be bolted on, but we have to deal with this first. Basically, the bolt on the right side of the exhaust ends up hitting the downpipe once its threaded in enough. All I did was place the bolt in a clamp and cut off approximately ¼” of the bolt. You really could cut as little as 1/8”. I used a hacksaw, then sanded the cut edge down slightly with a power sander.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/DownpipeBoltProblem.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/ClampedDownBolt.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/DownBoltTrimmed.jpg


*Would like to point out that after pulling these bolts out of the exhaust assembly about three times, the holes that the wider part of the bolt sits on (so the spring can engage) widened and they fell through. This left a gap between the downpipe and exhaust assembly because the wide part of the bolt acts as a spacer more or less. This is an easy fix, and you may want to do it right now – grab a wide washer that fits around the bolt.


STEP TWENTY-THREE
---Attach Zage downpipe to exhaust system.
-See Step six. Same procedure but backwards. I shouldn’t have to say this, but get them tight.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/DownpipeFitment.jpg


STEP TWENTY-FOUR:
---Finish tightening manifold bolts
-Now that the car is raised, it’s possible to get the two lower manifold bolts tight. They’re hard to get at still, but if you reach up past the axle you should be able to get an open 10mm wrench on them.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/AnnoyingManiBolt.jpg


@You should have the turbocharger assembly fully mounted at this point. Don’t worry about the oil and coolant lines yet, we’re going to do piping first.


STEP TWENTY-FIVE:
---Mount first pipe to turbocharger
-The way I prepared these pipes was by placing a silicon coupler on each side, and clamping it to the pipe with a t-clamp. Then I add another t-clamp to the open side and tighten it enough just so it stays in place. That way, when you connect a pipe, all that is needed is to push it into the silicon coupler and tighten the t-clamp. Grab the pipe in the first picture, prep it, then get under the car and connect it to the turbine housing on the turbocharger. Try to arrange the t-clamp bolt so you can reach it with an 8mm box wrench. You could also use a flat head, but I found the box much easier.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/TurboPiping.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%202/TurboFromBottom.jpg


STEP TWENTY-SIX:
---Remove/cut black plastic next to radiator
-You’ll see what I mean in the first two pictures. The only part that really needs to be dealt with is that bottom part, because the next pipe we connect has to run through where the plastic is. I didn’t remove the whole piece, as I thought it would expose an unnecessary amount of the engine bay. I used a combination of drilling and hacksawing to remove the plastic.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/LeftRadiatorPlastic.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/BottomofPlastic.jpg


STEP TWENTY-SEVEN:
---Connect second, J-shaped pipe
-Grab the J-shaped pipe (not the one with the bung for the blow-off valve) and prep the shorter side (this side will connect to the intercooler). Afterwards, connect the longer side of the “J” to the piping that’s coming off the turbocharger. Make sure to tighten the t-clamp.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/PipeThroughLeftSide.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/1stPipeConnectionTop.jpg


@I found it best to save the intercooler for last, especially because it has fitment issues. For now, we’ll start the piping off the throttle body.


STEP TWENTY-EIGHT:
---Remove current air intake system
-Obviously, this will vary. I had a cheapo could air intake that was easy to pull out. I would like to think that if you have an aftermarket intake installed, you’d also know how to UNINSTALL it. If you have the factory air box, I believe the top clips off and you need to pull the filter out to expose the two bolts that hold it to the frame. They’re most likely 10mm bolts. Put the MAF sensor aside for now.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/CAIout.jpg

STEP TWENTY-NINE:
---Attach blow-off valve to throttle body piping
-*UPDATE: I recommend a third party BOV. Zage's kind of sucks.
-This is the other J-shaped pipe, but with the bung. Grab the noticeably smaller silicon coupler and 2x t-clamps that will be used to mount the blow-off valve. Install it exactly as it is in the following picture (make sure the hose barb is facing up). Place the pipe in the throttle (not too far, otherwise the throttle plate will hit the pipe), and tighten t-clamps.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/TBPipeBOV.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/PipeInTB.jpg


STEP THIRTY:
---Cut right bumper support for piping
-You’ll see what I’m talking about in the pictures. All you need to do is snip the tabs where the hole is, and enough of the plastic support will fall away to allow the piping to fit. This will also retain one of the clips that hold the black plastic support into the actual steel bumper support.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/BottomRightPlastic.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/RightIntercoolerPiping.jpg


STEP THIRTY-ONE:
---Attach throttle body piping to right intercooler piping
-At this point you should be down to two pipes, one that’s incredibly wacky shaped, and another with a hole for mounting the MAF. You need the wacky shaped pipe. Put a silicon coupler and t-clamps on the side that doesn’t bend upwards (will attach to the intercooler). Push pipe up into throttle body piping’s coupler, tighten t-clamps.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/RightRadiatorSidePiping.jpg


STEP THIRTY-TWO:
---Attach intercooler
-Fitment on this thing kind of sucks. You’ll notice the intercooler outlets are in different spots too (one in the middle, one on the top/bottom). I’m unsure of the proper way to connect this, but I put the middle outlet on the left, and the bottom outlet on the right side. Attach one side at a time by tightening the t-clamps. Yes, it sits lopsided, but this can be fixed.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/IntercoolerConnected.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/CarIntercooler.jpg


STEP THIRY THREE:
---Design mounting brackets for intercooler
-The way Zage mounts their intercooler is by drilling holes in the bottom of the bumper support, then using the bolt holes on the top of the intercooler. I have no idea how they did this, because as you can see in the first picture, the intercooler is terribly off of the bumper support. This can be solved a number of ways. I had these generic brackets sitting around that come in a roll that you cut to the size desired. I then drilled the holes slightly larger in the brackets so the intercooler bolts would fit. For now, I’ll leave this up to your creativity. I’d also like to point out you could use 5 zip ties (each side) to wrap around the silicon couplers and bumper support. This is probably, at best, a temporary solution though.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%203/IntercoolerProblem.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/IntercoolerBrackets.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/IntercoolerTied.jpg

*UPDATE: I bought a carbid drill bit and still couldn't get through the front bumper support. I ended up drilling two holes in the thin metal portion where the skid plate bolts up. I then bolted the above brackets to the bottom of the intercooler. It's much more firm (and level now). You could probably avoid drilling and just use the holes that are already there. I'll get some pictures sometime.


@Piping is now finished. It’s time for arguably the most difficult part – running the oil/coolant/vacuum lines.


STEP THIRTY-FOUR:
---Drain engine oil
-If you’re doing this install, you’ve probably done an oil change before. If not, you need to grab an oil drain pan (also a funnel for later) and place it below the oil pan. Off-center of the pan is a 14mm bolt that is the drain plug. Unbolt that and let the oil drain into the pan. Next you need to remove the filter (I’m going to assume you have the sandwich adapter from my gauges guide installed). Usually I can grab the filter with a paper towel near the bottom and work it off. Worst case, you’ll need an oil filter wrench. I don’t know what size filter we use. The filter holds the sandwich adapter in place, so don’t be surprised if it falls off. Make sure the pan is under the filter, because it will leak a little. Pour the remaining oil from the filter into the drain pan. I reused my oil, but you can ditch that oil and put new oil in later if you’d like (DON’T DO IT NOW).
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/DrainingOil.jpg


STEP THIRTY-FIVE:
---Remove OEM oil pan
-The pan is held on by 8x 10mm bolts and 2x 10mm nuts. When you get them all off, you’ll notice the pan is still attached to the block pretty firmly. There’s a layer of sealant/adhesive that is holding it in place. I grabbed a flat head and rubber mallet and worked it into the cracks. Eventually I had enough leverage to pry it off. Dump out any remaining oil in the pan.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/PanComingOff.jpg


STEP THIRTY-SIX:
---Clean any and all oil where the pan bolts up
-Pretty self-explanatory. Grab a rag or some paper towels and clean around the bolt holes on the engine block. You need this surface to be as clean as possible for the sealant we’re going to be using.


STEP THIRTY-SEVEN:
---Remove OEM "studs" from engine block
-Oh dear god, this was awful. If you have a M4 female torx socket on hand, then you just saved yourself a lot of aggravation. Otherwise, you're in for some fun. Believe it or not, the studs that the OEM oil pan nuts go on can be removed from the engine block, and need to be. I tried a lot of things, but I finally got them out with a big meaty vice grip.


STEP THIRTY-EIGHT:
---Assemble the Zage oil pan
-*UPDATE: TAP THE BLOCK. DON'T USE ZAGE'S PAN.
-For starters, attach the silver return flange to the bolt hole on the side (the flat one). Don’t forget to put the black paper-like gasket first. Also bolt in the drain plug. Like the OEM pan, it’s 14mm as well. Next, refer to the third picture. The return elbow CANNOT go any lower than this angle, or else gravity will not be able to return the oil successfully. Get it angled in this manner now, so you know what your lowest angle is when you attempt to connect the return line later.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/ZagePanReturnOn.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/PanComparison.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/ElbowAngleMin.jpg

UPDATE: After months of debating whether or not to use this pan, I've decided it's best not to use it. Unfortunately, the return line is simply a bad design and was causing excessive turbo blow by. I'd recommend tapping the block right from the get go. This will make future oil changes easier as well (otherwise, you have to remove the return fitting at the pan to remove the oil filter). I didn't take any pictures, but you're going to need a drill, 90 degree attachment, and 3/4 drill bit. Here's the fittings you're going to need (you also need to assemble your own hose - mine was about 6"). Thanks goes to Brian.


OIL RETURN LINE
(2x) -8AN hose end fitting
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/110002/10002/-1?parentProductId=757777

-8AN stainless steel braided hose (you can get away with 3' but I would get 6' just in case you mess up)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100921/10002/-1?parentProductId=752578

-8AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100263/10002/-1?parentProductId=858285

-8AN bulkhead fitting nuts (x1)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100293/10002/-1

A tip for assembling steel braided hose:
For anyone in the future who needs to assemble their own hose - cut the hose (using electric tape), slip the compression part on and slide it down to where you want to make the actual cut. Then you simply slide it back up the hose and thread the nipple in. I found it difficult to cut the hose, slide the compression part on, then thread the nipple by only using the original cut. The end begins to get frayed. Trust me, I'm an expert at this now lol.




STEP THIRTY-NINE:
---Apply silicone sealant to Zage oil pan
-*UPDATE: TAP THE BLOCK. DON'T USE ZAGE'S PAN.
-Grab your sealant and put a healthy blob around the entire edge of the Zage pan. Don’t worry about spreading it, this will be done when you press it against the engine block. Hint: you’d rather use too much than not enough. Now apply a good size blob on each bolt and nut.


STEP FORTY:
---Attach Zage oil pan to engine block
-*UPDATE: TAP THE BLOCK. DON'T USE ZAGE'S PAN.
-With the surface clean and the sealant applied, push the pan into place. Thread two bolts on the opposite sides of the pan with your fingers so it’s held in place. Now get all bolts on, and get them all semi-tight. You don’t want them to be too tight, because you want the sealant to cure before tightening the pan. Walk away/ continue the install at this point, but come back to the pan in about four hours and tighten all bolts. Also, feel free to reattach the oil filter at this point.


STEP FORTY-ONE:
---Cut engine block to accommodate for oil return line
-*UPDATE: TAP THE BLOCK. DON'T USE ZAGE'S PAN. Therefore this step is unnecessary.
-Using a hacksaw and a drill, cut away the area of the engine block as seen in the pictures. I hacksawed two slots, then drilled away the bottom until a rectangular shaped piece fell out. I’m not entirely sure if this is needed, but by doing this you keep the oil return line sloping downward at all times, allowing gravity to do work.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/EngineCutForReturn3.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/EngineCutForReturn2.jpg


* While you’re down there, you really should fashion up a bracket to keep the oil feed and return lines away from the axle, otherwise they’ll get sheared. I used one of the threaded stems that held part of the black frame that we removed in the beginning, and attached a bracket similar to the ones I used for the intercooler. I just reused the nut to hold the bracket, then sent two zip ties through two separate holes wrapped them around the feed and return lines. After tightening the zip ties, those lines won’t be moving at all.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/ReturnHangar.jpg


STEP FORTY-TWO:
---Attach oil return line to pan
--*UPDATE: TAP THE BLOCK. DON'T USE ZAGE'S PAN.
-Your oil return line should already be attached to the turbo, so it’s just a matter of manipulating it a bit. Make sure it runs through that slot we just cut, and play with it a bit until its lined up with the elbow. Remember, don’t move the elbow downward anymore than it already is (upward is ok). Thread it onto the elbow, and use a 15/16” wrench to tighten the line.


STEP FORTY-THREE:
---Attach oil feed line
-Your oil feed line should also already be attached to the turbo. If your oil filter isn’t back on yet, do it now. Run the oil feed line with the oil return line (under the block) and next to the filter. You’ll be needing a ½” wrench to get one of the bolts off the sandwich adapter. You really should prepare the oil feed tee first. It’s as simple as leaving the top spot open, putting the included bolt (in the oil return bag) in one side, and the 1/8” NPT male to 1/8” NPT male adapter into the other side (same bag). Once you have an open spot on the sandwich adapter, screw in the oil feed tee we just prepared, tight, using some pliers. Make sure the open spot faces downward. Thread the adapter with the flared end (flared end into oil feed line) first. Then thread the other side into the open end on the tee. I can’t remember what size wrench is used to tighten the feed line.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/OilReturnTee.jpg


@Oil lines are now complete. We’ll shift our focus onto the coolant lines. I’m going to assume that at STEP NINETEEN you attached the downwards facing adapter and attached some rubber hose to it. I’d like to add we’ll be tapping the throttle body coolant lines. I found them the most accessible.


STEP FORTY-FOUR:
---Lower car


STEP FORTY-FIVE:
---Attach upwards facing coolant adapter (if water cooling)
-Grab at least three feet of hose and push it onto the barb. Next, attach the adapter to the turbo (in the only available slot). I can’t remember entirely, but you may have to put the adapter in first, then add the rubber hose (the firewall may be in the way).
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/Rust.jpg


STEP FORTY-SIX:
---Place nylon tees in throttle body coolant lines
-Cut each coolant line at an easy to reach place using an exacto knife or tool of choice, then place a 5/16” nylon tee in each.

UPDATE: By using nylon tees, you're plumbing the coolant in parallel. I believe I had some leaks as a result of this because at certain points in the lines there would probably be weird pressure differentials. So, I redid this by plumbing everything in series instead. Basically, it's now set up like this: TB IN --> TB OUT --> TURBO IN --> TURBO OUT --> ENGINE IN. "Turbo in" is the line on the top, while "turbo out" is the line that comes out the bottom of the turbo. As for the TB, check this picture out (Thanks H3llion).
http://i56.tinypic.com/zkg0sj.jpg


STEP FORTY-SEVEN:
---Run the turbo coolant lines and attach to nylon tees (if water cooling)
-You need to run the turbo coolant lines on the right side of the engine, under the fuel rail, evap hose, wiring harnesses, etc. etc. Attach each one to one of the nylon tees. It doesn’t matter how you connect the hoses, as one will be coolant in and one will be coolant out. On top of that, it doesn’t matter which way coolant flows through the turbocharger, just as long as it flows.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/CoolantLine1.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/CoolantTee.jpg


@Coolant lines are now complete. Time to work on the blow-off valve.


STEP FORTY-EIGHT:
---Cut and place nylon tee in vacuum hose
-Cut the vacuum hose and place a 5/16” nylon tee in line. Have the tee facing downward. Don’t get confused by my picture, I have a brass tee I use for my boost gauge in line as well.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/BypassValveConnected.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/BOVHose.jpg

*UPDATE: The other crappy part of this kit is the BOV. It sucks (no pun intended lol). Buy yourself a decent one. I bought a SSQV III and a 30(?) mm flange so that you can pop it right into where the ZAGE BOV would go.


STEP FORTY-NINE:
---Attach rubber hose from blow-off valve to nylon tee.
-Cut just enough hose to go from the blow-off valves up to the nylon tee. Push the hose onto the nylon tee, it will be a snug fit. However, the barb on the blow-off is for a 3/16” hose, and we’re using 5/16”, so put a mini t-clamp at the bottom of the hose.

*I was worried I had a vacuum leak, so I ended up buying a nylon tee from Advance auto that has multiple barbs. It allows you to trim the barbs to get either a 1/8, 1/4, or 3/8 barb. I cut one side to 3/8 for the OEM vacuum hose (yes it's 5/16, but it fits on 3/8 perfectly), and cut the other two sides to 1/4. I ran a 3/16 hose to the BOV, and the other runs to my FIC MAP sensor.


@Blow-off valve is done. Next is the air filter needs to be put together.


STEP FIFTY:
---Put together air filter assembly
-First things first, grab the MAF and attach it to the piece of pipe with the rubber gasket, using the two mounting screws included. Next, push the air filter onto the rubber gasket and tighten the t-clamp. Take one of the huge, elbow silicon couplers and push it all the way up to where the MAF mounts. Grab the only pipe remaining and push it into the other side of the coupler. You’ll notice there is a bung on the pipe (for the evap hose). Do not push the pipe so far into the coupler such that its touching this bung. Leave about an inch of clearance, otherwise when you put the assembly in the battery gets in the way.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/AirFilter1.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/AirFilter2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/AirFilter3.jpg


STEP FIFTY-ONE:
---Attach silicone coupler to compressor side of turbocharger
-As you can immediately see from the picture, it’s incredibly difficult to get at the compressor outlet from the top of the engine. It’s also impossible to get at it from the bottom. I moved whatever hoses and wires out of the way that I could. Next, I put a t-clamp on the compressor inlet. Then I attached the silicon coupler and pulled the t-clamp onto the coupler. You’re gonna need to wiggle the coupler around a bit until you finally get it in place, then wiggle it some more to get it onto the compressor inlet. Spin the t-clamp until the bolt is in a convenient spot. No matter what, it will be in a very difficult to reach spot. I practically climbed into the engine bay to be able to reach it.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/SiliconConnectorOn.jpg


STEP FIFTY-TWO:
---Attach air filter assembly to outlet coupler
-Reaching the aforementioned coupler is a little easier to do when you’re just pushing a pipe into it. Don’t forget to t-clamp it as well. Also plug the MAF back in now.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20Install%20-%20Day%204/AirFilterOn.jpg

UPDATE: I ended up connecting one of the PCV lines to a mini breather filter (as opposed to rerouting it back into the intake piping) and routed the other PCV line through an oil catch can. I would at least recommend adding the mini breather filter. My set up is similar to the one below (Thanks PETERPOOP for the pic).
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0893.jpg

@At this point I’d like to say congratulations if you made it this far. The whole kit is now installed; however there are a number of things that remain to be done before you can fire up the engine. I’ll continue to cover what I did and the necessary steps.


STEP FIFTY-THREE:
---Pull spark plugs
-You just need to remove the wiring harnesses from the spark plugs. They’re right on top of the engine. Use pliers if you can’t get them off by hands. They only have one clip.


STEP FIFTY FOUR:
---Pull EFI fuses
-These two fuses are located in the engine bay fuse box. Consult my picture or the fuse box cover to know where they are. Use the fuse remover in the box to aid in removing them.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/FuseBox.jpg


STEP FIFTY-FIVE:
---Prime the turbo
-THIS IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT. This step could very well determine whether or not your turbocharger blows or not on the first start up. The last two steps were prep for this. What you now need to do is crank the engine long enough to get the oil pump working. If you have a mechanical gauge installed, this will be easier. Turn and hold the key to ignition. The car won’t start, but the starter will attempt to do so. Watch your gauge build pressure. When it reaches 20 psi, stop cranking. Count out 10 seconds, then repeat. Do this process five times. If you don’t have a gauge installed, count out about 15 seconds while cranking, then stop. I found this to be about how long it took to build 20 psi of oil pressure.

*I had an interesting experience with priming the turbo again about a month after the install. I had just done an oil change, and just to be safe, was going to prime the turbo. The above procedure DID NOT work. The engine cranked, but I was unable to build oil pressure. If you experience the same issue, leave the EFI fuses in, but unplug the fuel injectors.

UPDATE: You don't need to prime the turbo every time you do an oil change, only before the initial start up.

STEP FIFTY-SIX:
---Replace EFI fuses and spark plugs
-Do the above, and check all other connections. Make sure the O2 sensor is plugged in, and the vacuum hose is attached.


STEP FIFTY-SEVEN:
---Start the car
-This is it. Everything you’ve done up until this point now all converges here. Yes, it’s incredibly nerve-racking. Trust me though, you’ll want to hear your new turbocharger rawr for the first time. Hopefully everything was done right. You should know almost immediately. Good luck.

STEP FIFTY-EIGHT:
---Diagnose leaks
-This, arguably, took me the longest to deal with. I’m not sure what the right way to go about this is. Basically, you need to start the car and let it run, and watch for coolant and oil leaks around the oil pan, oil filter, throttle body coolant tees, and turbocharger. The best way to deal with a leak is to first see if you can tighten whatever connection may be leaking. If not, the next step is to replace the adapter / fitting / line that’s leaking.


STEP FIFTY-NINE
---Exhaust wrap hot side
-This should only be done when all leaks have been 100% dealt with. The only exceptions being the AC lines and O2 sensor wires. Otherwise, you’ll want to get a good amount of wrap around the turbine housing, the manifold, and the downpipe. It's not necessary to take the turbo assembly out to wrap it.
*Getting the wrap wet makes it this an easier task. It can be wrapped tighter as well.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/HeatWrapped.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboHeatWrapped3.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboHeatWrapped2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboHeatWrapped.jpg


* O2 Sensor: I was having problems with wires burning when I was running the O2 sensor wires, exhaust wrapped, over the turbo and manifold. I ended up extending the wires and running them through some plastic flame retardant conduit. I ran that away from the downpipe, up towards the ECM, and across the top of the engine bay and connected the molex connectors near the power-steering fluid tank. I also exhaust wrapped the conduit. Overkill maybe, but I haven’t had any problems since.
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/TurboWrapO2.jpg
http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/O2MolexConnection.jpg


STEP SIXTY:
---Get Tuned
-That’s about it. As soon as the car becomes drivable, your priority list becomes 1) fill up on premium and 2) get tuned. It’s probably safe to drive the car around a little bit and enter boost once you have premium gas, but the sooner you get tuned, the better. Plus, it’s most likely going to give you an additional increase in performance.

UPDATE: I'm running plus (89 octane) with no issues.
*UPDATE: I'd still recommend 93 though.


STEP SIXTY ONE:
---Enjoy your newly boosted Yaris!
-This is probably the easiest step of the guide. Trust me, the first time you enter boost in this car, your face is going to hurt from smiling so much. Hard work pays off!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

---EXPENSES--- (this is what I paid)
-Zage turbo kit - $1600 shipped
-Custom Exhaust - $200
-Flowmaster Super 44 - $85
-Professional Tuning - N/A (Tuned myself)
-AEM FIC - $320
-AEM UEGO - $195

-Boost, Water Temp, Oil Pressure gauges - $60
-Filter Sandwich adapter - $30
-A-gauge pod - $20
-Turbo Timer - $40 (optional)
-1ZZ Injectors - $50 (optional)

-Exhaust Wrap - $30
-6.5 ft of rubber fuel hose -$30
-Teflon Paste - $7
-Silicone Sealant - $5
-3x Nylon Tees - $5
-8x hose clamp - $5
-Brass fittings - approx. $2 ea.
-AC Refrigerant - $20
-Code Reader - $60 (cheapest at Advance Auto)

Estimated total - $2772

---WORD COPY OF GUIDE---
I've taken this guide and thrown it into a word 2007 document (.docx) with the pictures embedded. It's a 30 MB file, so I had to upload it kinda weird.

-Download these 9 .zip files
-Remove JUST the .zip extension
-Download WinRAR if you don't have it (or similar file extracting / compressing program)
-If WinRAR installed, right click one of the files and click "extract here"
-Open the word document

*If your computer sucks, it may take awhile to open.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright well here's my tune for anyone interested. I'm pretty satisfied with it at this point.

Specs:
-AEM FIC Fuel map
-Zage Turbo Kit
-AFR Sensor unplugged
-1ZZ Injectors (240-260cc; stock: 200cc)
-MBC set to about 8 psi (probably irrelevant)
-Automatic (should work just as well for manual)

I've set this tune up to get both the best of performance and fuel economy. At any point outside of boost, I've aimed for 14.7 (stoich) for emissions and fuel economy purposes. Here's how I have boost arranged...

1 psi - low 14s, high 13s
2 psi - Around 13.5
3 psi - low 13s, high 12s
4 psi - 12-12.5
5 psi+ - Around 11.5

I thought this was pretty reasonable considering after a couple of months driving around without a tune, stoich seemed to be fine up to 5 psi. Obviously the greater the air is compressed, the more heat is produced, so additional fuel (for cooling) should be added. I've definitely noticed a performance increase by running richer AFRs as well.

Hopefully this tune will be largely plug and play, but if not, I'd like to point out how I went about this. ANYONE can do this (with a wideband, of course).

-Hook laptop up to FIC to log the run (I never used the internal logger).
-Log the run. I honestly just did this during normal driving. You're going to want some spots where you're boosting, and simply cruising.
-Open the log up in excel and hide all data except RPMs, fuel trim, wideband, and engine load.
-Look for areas in the log where the breakpoints on the fuel map approximately match up. Then look at the fuel trim on excel and the map. Subtract points from the map at that location to lean the mixture, add points to richen the mixture. I never added/subtracted too much at once - you only want small changes until you reach your desired AFR.

***This is a weird glitch in the coding of the FIC I discovered (pimp my yaris also had this problem). Everywhere you see a .8, leave it alone. It's simply there to prevent the following. Apparently, when the FIC is fueling and it gets dropped to 0 (i.e. accelerating then letting off the throttle) it freaks the hell out. I noticed it was just dumping fuel at AFRs richer than 10. My engine was stuttering badly until I replaced all the zeroes with .8.

At this point, the only way I can make a Zage turbo kit install easier is by showing up and doing it myself lol.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not responsible for any problems that may arise from using my tune. It's tried and tested, but not stupid-proof.

[cali yaris]

nicely done.

what does reserved mean?

oh, and throw all that into a Word doc and save as a PDF

[fnkngrv]

nicely done.

what does reserved mean?

oh, and throw all that into a Word doc and save as a PDF

+1

I read thru your preface and it looks like you did a good job. :w00t:

Some might be interested in a ballpark figure of your expenditures; both money and time.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Haha give me time guys, I'm still inserting pictures.

I was just attempting to throw my .docx version in as an attachment, but I currently have to get over the size limitation hurdle. The guide is 30 mb (the pictures are embedded), and I even tried compressing it, splitting it, then renaming the extension to .zip so I COULD upload to the site. No dice. I'll think of something.

[2manywheels]

Focus...
Have you tuned it yet?
Numbers?? mmmmmmmmm Numbers.. :P

[stevethegimp]

Awesome man! Your original thread is what got me finally doing the install. I'm hoping to follow in your footsteps and be completely installed and tuned by the end of October.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Awesome man! Your original thread is what got me finally doing the install. I'm hoping to follow in your footsteps and be completely installed and tuned by the end of October.

Glad to hear it man, I wish you the best of luck. I'll be around to answer any questions you (and anyone else daring enough) may have. :wink:

[cali yaris]

I'll think of something.

a PDF will be a lot smaller?

[pimp my yaris]

Nice thread. Very detailed. Just wanted to mention if U get the header wrap wet if is much easier to install and U can wrap it tighter. Pics look so familar. I cant believe my turbo set up looks so much like the zage kit, considering I never saw it before. It looks like their manafold is a little shorter and may be a little roomier under the hood. But who knows about flow.
Next question, Who's going for pistons and rods first? I think I will need a beefier clutch first though.

[cali yaris]

Clutchmasters is the best I've tried, definitely way better than Exedy.

[henry33]

very nice
what is the HP increase after install ?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Nice thread. Very detailed. Just wanted to mention if U get the header wrap wet if is much easier to install and U can wrap it tighter. Pics look so familar. I cant believe my turbo set up looks so much like the zage kit, considering I never saw it before. It looks like their manafold is a little shorter and may be a little roomier under the hood. But who knows about flow.
Next question, Who's going for pistons and rods first? I think I will need a beefier clutch first though.

Cool, I'll add that bit about the wrap in.
As for rods and pistons... I doubt I'll ever be doing that, but don't quote me. I've been playing around with ideas and so far have only really come up with meth injection, and possibly a lightweight flywheel.
I am, however, very interested in the Gude head, but H3llion seems to have fallen off the face of the planet.

very nice
what is the HP increase after install ?

I'll get the numbers when I get tuned. Should be next week hopefully.

And Garm, to answer your two questions - I'm using a narrowband because 1) I'm not tuning myself and 2) I see no reason to spend $200 on one. As long as I know whether I'm running lean, rich, or stoich, I'm happy.

I tried making the guide a PDF but it didn't save much space. Lots of pictures = lotsa MBs. A fair trade off. :tongue:

[2manywheels]

Focus,
I downloaded the files.. Weird, The doc's are all corrupt. Will try again, then I might be able to do a combine and compress with bullzip.
FYI
;)

[2manywheels]

lets try these on for size.. :P
The pics are pretty high res.
Sorry, best I could do at work!

[firemachine69]

Are you sure you can tune that with just the FIC?


I was sure an E-manage was a necessity when boosted... For reliability without a check-engine light...

[cali yaris]

Are you sure you can tune that with just the FIC?

Sure you can. Why, specifically, would an eManage be a necessity?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Are you sure you can tune that with just the FIC?


I was sure an E-manage was a necessity when boosted... For reliability without a check-engine light...

Both are piggybacks that essentially can be used in the same ways (I believe the FIC may even have more functionality).

I've been driving around for about 2 weeks without a tune and see no reason to mess with timing and ignition, as the ECM handles that just fine. There may be some performance to gain by advancing timing, but that's a very grey area because the ECM is likely to try and work around it. Maybe in a couple months, and if I like my tuner, I'll mess around with those. For now, the only problem is really the air/fuel ratio. In all honesty, with 1ZZ injectors in and no tune, the AFR is still pretty safe right up to about 5 psi. Then it begins to get really lean. I've yet to experience any knocking running on 93 octance gas.

Also, running with a CEL isn't necessarily a bad thing. Not all CELs indicate a serious issue. Many of them are just the ECU's way of indicating something abnormal... And if you know what you're doing and why you're getting those CELs, it isn't really a big deal. Nonetheless, if I'm correct about the CELs I do currently have, a proper tune with MAF clamping included should sort them out anyways.

2manywheels, thanks a bunch for the PDFs. :biggrin:

[cali yaris]

running with a CEL isn't necessarily a bad thing.

If the CEL is causing the ECU to go into "limp home mode", which the kind you are getting do, that is a very bad thing.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

If the CEL is causing the ECU to go into "limp home mode", which the kind you are getting do, that is a very bad thing.

Agreed, but actually P0101 is the one MAF code that doesn't cause limp mode lol. P0100, P0102 and P0103 all would cause it though.

[sleey0]

Blinking cel is the one u dont want to see.

If blinking it is unsafe to drive.

Source: Toyota

[cali yaris]

Limp-home mode is not good for your motor, whether the CEL is blinking or not.

[sleey0]

Thanks.for.that but i would hope.we all know limpy is unsafe. Goes.without sayin, imo.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah limp mode is no fun. I had to drive home for the first time in limp mode on thursday when I was having battery problems.

[sleey0]

You got brass balls, focus.

I truly admire you.

I am still having issues getting into contact with zage. Grace answers emails but doesn't even really answer my questions.

Got any other contacts? Phone numbers? etc

Thanks!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

You got brass balls, focus.

I truly admire you.

I am still having issues getting into contact with zage. Grace answers emails but doesn't even really answer my questions.

Got any other contacts? Phone numbers? etc

Thanks!

I'd ask her if she can refer you to anyone else. I did all of my transaction through her, but come to think of it, I didn't really ask her any technical questions.

If anything, she is incredibly nice :thumbsup:

[sleey0]

I'd ask her if she can refer you to anyone else. I did all of my transaction through her, but come to think of it, I didn't really ask her any technical questions.

If anything, she is incredibly nice :thumbsup:

Will do.

And thanks!

[sleey0]

Question for you experts. Say I get the zage and then want to drop in a different turbo. Look at the zage dowbpipe flange.

Can ANYONE see if another turbo (greddy, hks, etc) will work with the 4 bolt flange? I know that only a small turbo would fit but that can be managed. I just want to know if that flange can be used with another turbo.

Let's say it blows for whatever reason. Getting another turbo besides the zage would be much easier (for me at least) than dealing with zage.

I know the garrett will not fit becaue of the 5 bolt pattern.

Thanks, fellas!

[xbgod]

I just sent you an E-mail on this kit and what to do. build this bitch already.

Aras

[sleey0]

I just sent you an E-mail on this kit and what to do. build this bitch already.

Aras

Got it and I will once I play with a Blitz for a while:)

Twin charged Yaris, anyone?

[xbgod]

Ok,

Here's my opinon. After much research on the Zage kit, here is what I found out. That kit for your car uses a 15G turbo which is one step higher than the Greddy 14G kit which means more power. Zage is using a Mitsubishi turbo just like Greddy for their kits so your still getting a Mitsubishi turbo either way. The Zage kit quite nice, more than enough power for your stock motor. You will still need engine management for that kit too as it does not come with it.

Here is what you do. Get the Zage kit use a AEM/FIC, Greddy boost controller and timmer and Run a AEM water Methanol kit. You can safely turn up the boost with the Greddy boost controller and use the Methanol kit to control the detonation. You will have unbeliveable power with that set-up. You could run 10lb no problem. Do not do more than this for your DD. YOU WILL BLOW THAT MOTOR UP!!!!! Unless you have deeper pockets to build a motor than do just this and you will be very happy.

This is my advice to you, take it or leave it. But you'll be bitting off more than you can chew if your not careful.

Also don't make all the same mistakes I did. If you want to turbo charge then go turbo don't waste your energy or money on a S/C. Not worth all the effort to change it all around to a different type of system.

XBG

[cali yaris]

^ +1 million

Really no need to discuss it any further, that says it all. Looking forward to your build.

[sleey0]

I just want to know how aras found out about the zage using mits internals?

Thats all.
XBG and garm have been truthfull 100%,but where thiis mitssu turbo came from I want to know more!'

Thank, guys!
Wes

[sleey0]

Oh, and focus_shift

Are u reading these posts!

Might make u happy!!!!

[sleey0]

And as always, thank you aras and garm for your patiene with me.

I am somewhat new to this so please be kind.

I know I get a little carried away but it is just my enthusiasim! I have NEVER had my own boosted car, and in the next month or so i will!

Can you appreciate that? Remember back to your first boosted car? Wasn't it thrilling?

Well i am going through that now, happily eagerly.

:D

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Here is what you do. Get the Zage kit use a AEM/FIC, Greddy boost controller and timmer and Run a AEM water Methanol kit.

This is EXACTLY what I was planning on doing. I can't be bothered building the internals because if I can't do it I refuse to pay $1000+ in labor. I saw this as being the only other viable way to increase power, especially low end. In all honesty, the additional torque that would come with meth injection would be MORE power than I had ever planned to achieve. :thumbup:

Dunno how you found out about Zage using a Mitsu turbo, but that's cool with me. As far as I know, Mistu has good quality turbos, and (so far) I can't complain.

[sleey0]

Yup.

Still wondering how Aras found that out. lol

We are ready when you are Aras!

EDIT: GRACE AT ZAGE CONFIRMED THAT IS IS NOT A MITS TURBO, Only designed off the 15g and made by Zage.

Aras, you might want to edit your post wtih this info.

I mean, is Zage QC/QA any good?

focus-Shift will find out and poss me:)

[sleey0]

And where does the Meth kit hook up? I am not really willing to get rid of the washer tank.

Also, our bays are very small.

Anyone have pics of there Meth setup?

THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[xbgod]

Like everything thats made, there are only so many real manufactures. The giveaway was the flange on the Zage kit. it's the same as all smaller Mitsubishi turbos. I did make a call or two but thats not important.

another example is Garrett = made by Honeywell
Turbonetics = made by Kelly Aerospace

Only so many ways to skin a cat guys. And these smaller companies do not have the funds to pull off such kits for so low overhead.

Greddy just so you know is like the Walmart JDM. quality parts but not true JDM.

ARC, HKS, TOP SECRET, FUSION these are real JDM Companies.

Methanol kit, tooooo easy buy the kit with the tank for your trunk. And mount the nozel right in front of your TB about 3 inches away.

XBG

[xbgod]

Her is my nozel pictured below.

[sleey0]

Are thos 2 rubber lines the Meth?

Hellp me out here lol.

The problem is that Idon't know about zages quality.

If you say it's the mitssu flange than GREAT! I can find a mits turbo cheao that may be btter quality that will fit.

Thanks, aras, for answering my zage flange questiion.

So, who makes the best mits turbos? LOL

[xbgod]

Here you go, more examples:

[sleey0]

^^^ Was just on AEM's site looking at that graphic. LOLZ

Yeah, and ummm my "trunk" is not an xb trunk lol.

I have 2 10" JL's bak there in my hatch.

What about the spare tire area? Would that work and rout the lines underneath the car?

[xbgod]

It's the black single line going into the welded bung right in front of the TB. Those other 2 lines are my old coolant lines for my old small ass TB. Sorry for the confusing pic but thats the stae my car is in, shit still everywhere.

XBG

[sleey0]

1" left of the skunk 2 red logo?

Got it.

What about my proposal for the tank? Spare tire well?

[xbgod]

Ok final post on this. Or I think my brain is going to explode. "Garm is dead on"

the 1" skunk2 hose is a radiator hose being used for fitment purposes only.

Now back to the Zage kit. You see their willing to tell you about the copy of the 15G but what their not telling you is that the only real thing they do is modify the mitsubishi turbo like Greddy does.

Quite worring so much about all the brand name bullshit. All you need is that Zage kit put frankly. You have not the means or way to keep up with something more extreme, like garm or me. And thats not an insult thats just keeping it real. Our cars our toys (Garm and I) so we do what we want when we want. I have 2 other cars to drive besides that XB you on the other hand have yours as a DD don't push your luck. remember KISS (Kepp it simple stupid).

XBG

[sleey0]

Thanks aras, I think.

I don't get your intro statement as I think 1" left of the RED SKUNK LOGO you will see the meth hose.

You misunderstood? I know the damn skunk rad hose wasn't the meth line. I was placing it 1" to the left north east a little FROM the rad hose. Damn, bro.

I will let this go and you (aras) contact me when u get back.

/end thread

[xbgod]

Dude, no reason to get butt hurt. But you always want to move on to something else and you haven't even gotten started yet. You cant add on things to parts you don't even have yet.

Me and Garm merly make suggestions but you always one to take them one step further and what if it to death.

We got it, your new and no faults you for that. We want something reliable for you that won't bust your bank and is very dependable. Belive me you would'nt want my car, it's a constant battle of checks and balances.

Don't turn your DD into a constant pain in your ass. Keep it small keep it simple. And you will have more fun knowing your stuff is reliable and still gives you that boost you like.

I wasn't trying to be hurtful.

XBG

[sleey0]

I know, Aras.

I have been way too excited on this forum lately - and it shows.

No more from me.

Except advise on where to get parts at good prices (the stuff MI doesn't sell, of course).

I wasn't butt hurt lol. You def are a hoot and can't wait to catch up with ya!

Alrightly then. Guess I will leave the boards for ppl who really need help, which will be me inn a month or 2.

Good luck guys and sorry for pamming over the last few weeks.

I bet I have a lot of folks talking about me behind my back but whatever. We ALL started somewhere:D

See ya!!!!!

[sleey0]

Dude, no reason to get butt hurt. But you always want to move on to something else and you haven't even gotten started yet. You cant add on things to parts you don't even have yet.

And there is a reason for this, believe it or not.

I am currently gathering parts.

So, naturally, I need to know what I need. Don't need to spend unwisely.

But, yes, I get to involved in the "will this work" etc.

See ya, peeps. I'll be around, but just to asnwer question about stuff I know about:0 lol

Thank yous to:
Aras, Garm, Focu, Pimp, 33OH, and anyone else I missed I apologize but THANK YOU!!!

~Wes

[Focus_Sh1ft]

So are you doing Zage?

Because the first thing I said to you was "if it's you're first time turboing, get a kit." I thought that was pretty sound advice. :biggrin:

[sleey0]

Yes, focus. It looks that way. Might run a sc for a month just to see what it'll do.

I am waiting on Carlos to send pics.

I have time and once he does I will make my decision.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Guide updated, tune posted.

Looks as though the Zage oil pan shouldn't be used. I'll update that portion when I get around to tapping my block for a new oil return spot.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Got some news to share with potential Zage buyers...

I've had this itching suspicion regarding excessive oil pressure on cold start up that causes leakage out the turbos seals. I now know 100% what happened in my case.

I was running a 1ZZ TB and on cold start up was getting oil pressure at atleast 100 psi (my gauge was maxing out). The service manuals say the oil pump should be operating between 20 and 80 psi, so I wanted to look into this further.

My theory is that the greater airflow from the TB was being seen by the ECU and the ECU was turning up the oil pressure toooooo much (ONLY at cold start up. Arguably where the greatest oil pressure is needed). This is a sound theory because during normal driving conditions the oil pressure usually directly correlates to throttle position.

I swapped my 1NZ TB back on and sure enough - cold start up hit about 82 psi and there was no smoking out the hot side of the turbo. Can't really say I've noticed a loss of performance either.

In a nutshell, I think the Zage oil pan is safe to use.

... Now I just need to figure out why I can't hit max boost. :iono:

[cali yaris]

^ That is all very good to know. And being able to make one change and record the difference is helpful.

What boost are you maxing out at and at what rpm? Got a video of you stomping on it to redline?

[Nexus1155]

In a nutshell, I think the Zage oil pan is safe to use.

*facepalm* LOL

[Focus_Sh1ft]

*facepalm* LOL

Haha, I know. I'm 100% sure this time though.

Anyways, even with my tru boost installed I'm only hitting about 6 psi around 4k RPMs. Boost seems to build quickly to about 5 psi by 3k then fall off. I don't know if this is how it's supposed to be or not because I've never been in any other turbocharged car.

[cdydjded]

My theory is that the greater airflow from the TB was being seen by the ECU and the ECU was turning up the oil pressure toooooo much
The ECU has absolutely no control over oil pressure

This is a sound theory because during normal driving conditions the oil pressure usually directly correlates to throttle position.
Oil pressure correlates to RPM not TPS position

I swapped my 1NZ TB back on and sure enough - cold start up hit about 82 psi and there was no smoking out the hot side of the turbo. Can't really say I've noticed a loss of performance either.
Id say that with the 1ZZ TB the RPM @ cold start are higher than with the 1NZ TB, thats why you have more oil PSI

[cali yaris]

^ You are saying that rpm alone accounts for cold start 82 psi and warm idle 20 psi or less?

[cali yaris]

I'm only hitting about 6 psi around 4k RPMs. Boost seems to build quickly to about 5 psi by 3k then fall off.

I think you mean build more slowly, not fall off, right?

[cdydjded]

^ You are saying that rpm alone accounts for cold start 82 psi and warm idle 20 psi or less?

Yes, oil pressure with cold oil will always be higher than with hot oil. Oil thins out as its temperature rises. Thats where the for example 5W30 # come from. Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates.

And depending on the quality/brand of the oil you will have +/- oil pressure.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yes, oil pressure with cold oil will always be higher than with hot oil. Oil thins out as its temperature rises. Thats where the for example 5W30 # come from. Multi viscosity oils work like this: Polymers are added to a light base (5W, 10W, 20W), which prevent the oil from thinning as much as it warms up. At cold temperatures the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates.

And depending on the quality/brand of the oil you will have +/- oil pressure.

Great info, thanks. Agreed on the RPM and oil pressure correlation as well. That makes a bit more sense and would still explain the excessive pressure. The pressure was actually so great that oil was leaking out of the filter.

I think you mean build more slowly, not fall off, right?

Yeah sorry. It pretty much plateaus at 6 psi. I was thinking it may have been because of a vacuum leak from a broken bolt on the TB, but after replacing the bolt and TB nothing has changed.

[Yoda]

Great info, thanks. Agreed on the RPM and oil pressure correlation as well. That makes a bit more sense and would still explain the excessive pressure. The pressure was actually so great that oil was leaking out of the filter.



Yeah sorry. It pretty much plateaus at 6 psi. I was thinking it may have been because of a vacuum leak from a broken bolt on the TB, but after replacing the bolt and TB nothing has changed.

You might have a boost leak somewhere in the piping. Does your car jerk any? how are your afrs?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I really suspect I do have a boost leak and have had one since I installed the kit. Tomorrow I'm going to really comb over the induction system carefully. If nothing turns up, I'm gonna build a pressure tester. Also plan on hooking up a separate pressure gauge to the wastegate line and watching that.

There isn't really a better explanation for the problem I'm having. AFRs don't really indicate anything since I have complete control. One thing I did notice was significant richening at 5 psi or so while accelerating on the highway (i.e hits correct AFR for awhile, then goes richer than 10 after cruising for a bit). It's happened a couple times...

[Yoda]

I really suspect I do have a boost leak and have had one since I installed the kit. Tomorrow I'm going to really comb over the induction system carefully. If nothing turns up, I'm gonna build a pressure tester. Also plan on hooking up a separate pressure gauge to the wastegate line and watching that.

There isn't really a better explanation for the problem I'm having. AFRs don't really indicate anything since I have complete control. One thing I did notice was significant richening at 5 psi or so while accelerating on the highway (i.e hits correct AFR for awhile, then goes richer than 10 after cruising for a bit). It's happened a couple times...

Based on what your telling me it sounds like you have a boost leak. All that metered air is escaping somewhere thus leading to your rich condition.

[Nexus1155]

I don't get it? You do have a BOV right? Or does it recirc?

If it blows off into atmosphere it will cause a rich condition.
When you decelerate I usually see it lean out.

Still, boost leak testing should be done to any new build, and also as maintenance over time.

[cali yaris]

BOV to atmosphere on the ZAGE kit

[Yoda]

I don't get it? You do have a BOV right? Or does it recirc?

If it blows off into atmosphere it will cause a rich condition.
When you decelerate I usually see it lean out.

Still, boost leak testing should be done to any new build, and also as maintenance over time.

he is talking about while cruising.

[fnkngrv]

any reason this thread died or is there nothing else to say?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

There just isn't much left to say lol. I still have a boost leak, and I'm burning a tiny bit of oil occasionally, but other than that the Zage kit is holding up nicely. Most people just PM me with their questions at this point.

I think most people have kits installed professionally anyways. Honestly, I'd do another 10 turbo installs before doing this clutch job I'm currently elbow deep in :rolleyes:

[fnkngrv]

yeah, I am sure that before the year is out I will be in need of a clutch install.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

It's been about a year now and the car is still going strong. However, I've noticed I'm losing a decent amount of oil (2 quarts in 4k miles), so this time I'm DEFINITELY going to tap the block and drop the oil above the line. I still don't understand why some people can run this kit without that problem, but whatever.

[Brian]

I used a 90° bulkhead fitting when I tapped my block. The 90° bend is inside the oil pan and exits at almost exactly the same level as the oil pick up. No leaks or issues at all with that location.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ That's exactly what I was going to do. What size fitting did you use? I'm hoping 1/4 NPT will be enough.

[Brian]

^ That's exactly what I was going to do. What size fitting did you use? I'm hoping 1/4 NPT will be enough.

-8AN (1/2") 90° bulkhead fitting for the oil return. -4AN (1/4") for the feed line. I ran the feed line from the factory oil pressure sensor underneath the intake manifold.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah I'm still using the -8 AN line, but the only fittings I was able to find (for tapping the block) was 1/2" flare to 1/4" NPT. Hopefully that won't restrict flow too much.

[Brian]

I ordered all my fittings from Summit. Here's the one I'm using

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-983308ERL/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-992408ERL/

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Thanks Brian. I honestly think I'm just gonna order those to put my mind at ease. Are you using the return line that came with the Zage kit?

[Brian]

I ordered all new lines and fittings and made my own. If you want I can post or send you the links for everything I used.

[cali yaris]

posting would be great. I'd like to include all of that with the kits in the future.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I'd actually like to know too. It's turning out to be a PITA to find a length of hose that isn't completely overkill.

[Brian]

I'll post up the info when I get home. I ordered 6' stainless braided hoses and just cut them to the length I wanted. I have the sizes for all the fittings just because I wanted blue ones.

[Brian]

Here is the list of parts you will need if you want to make your own oil feed and return lines. I have attached links to Jegs and Summit so you can see what the parts look like.

OIL RETURN LINE
(you can still use the 45 degree fitting and reducer from the Zage kit but I will list them just in case you want to replace them as I did)

3/8" NPT to 45° -8AN flare
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/110127/10002/-1?parentProductId=752558

(2x) -8AN hose end fitting
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/110002/10002/-1?parentProductId=757777

-8AN stainless steel braided hose (you can get away with 3' but I would get 6' just in case you mess up)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100921/10002/-1?parentProductId=752578

-8AN 90 degree bulkhead fitting
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100263/10002/-1?parentProductId=858285

-8AN bulkhead fitting nuts
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100293/10002/-1


OIL FEED LINE
(I removed to factory oil pressure sensor and used that location for my oil feed line. You will NOT get a CEL from removing the sensor.)

-4AN to 10mm x 1.0 straight fitting
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670500/

-4AN male to -4AN female fitting with 1/8 NPT gauge port (this is where you're aftermarket oil pressure gauge connects to)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-100201ERL/

-4AN stainless steel braided line (6' or 10' to be safe)
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/100902/10002/-1?parentProductId=752578

(2x) -4AN straight hose end fittings
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/110000/10002/-1?parentProductId=757777

On the fitting with the 1/8 NPT port it will be a very tight fit but it will work. You may want to add a 45 degree 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 NPT male fitting for more clearance.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-491501/

[Bluevitz-rs]

(I removed to factory oil pressure sensor and used that location for my oil feed line. You will NOT get a CEL from removing the sensor.)

Right, but you wanna make sure you have some indicator on oil pressure, be it a gauge or a dummy light somewhere. It would suck to do all that work installing a turbo and have an oil leak or a line that pops you don't know about and cook the motor.

[Brian]

Right, but you wanna make sure you have some indicator on oil pressure, be it a gauge or a dummy light somewhere. It would suck to do all that work installing a turbo and have an oil leak or a line that pops you don't know about and cook the motor.

I mentioned that on the second part listed for the oil feed line. I know how important the gauge is. Without it I wouldn't have known about my low oil pressure problem.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

New oil line installed. Not only has blow by seemed to stop, but I no longer smell oil burning. I should have done this from the start... Highly recommended for anyone who buys a Zage kit. Plus, it gave me a reason to buy a dremel - which I've been wanting for awhile now. :biggrin:

[Brian]

I had to use my dremel too. A lot easier than a drill which is almost impossible to get in that tight of a space.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Actually, I used a 90 degree fitting for the drill since I had it, but I was definitely thinking about using the dremel beforehand. I had to use it to cut the hose - every other method didn't give me a clean enough cut.

For anyone in the future who needs to assemble their own hose - cut the hose (using electric tape), slip the compression part on and slide it down to where you want to make the actual cut. Then you simply slide it back up the hose and thread the nipple in. I found it difficult to cut the hose, slide the compression part on, then thread the nipple by only using the original cut. The end begins to get frayed. Trust me, I'm an expert at this now lol.

Again, thanks for the help Brian.

[Brian]

I forgot to mention how to assemble the hoses. Glad you figured it out though. Maybe you can include a hose assembly DIY and the fitting sizes into the install DIY.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Guide updated.

I re-plumbed my coolant lines today. Originally I had them in parallel, but I changed them to series instead.

[Pur_Blu]

Have u had a chance to get your car on the dyno to check the numbers?? Even with your current tuning. Im curious to see what kinda numbers the kit puts out. Glad to see you've gone boosted for so long now with no major problems if at all

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Have u had a chance to get your car on the dyno to check the numbers?? Even with your current tuning. Im curious to see what kinda numbers the kit puts out. Glad to see you've gone boosted for so long now with no major problems if at all

I haven't dynoed nor do I have plans to. PETERPOOP got 175/175 with meth injection on a manual, though. That should give you a rough idea. I'm glad I haven't had any major problems either lol.

At this point, the only issue I still have is some sort of boost leak. I can only hit about 5 psi if I'm flooring it, and once I hit that point I can hear the air escaping somewhere... I've suspected this for awhile but dunno how to proceed. :iono:

[Bluevitz-rs]

Put it on a dyno and look for the leak :biggrin:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Lmao... That was the first thing I thought of as soon as I hit the post button. It's actually a pretty solid idea.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

http://i894.photobucket.com/albums/ac141/focus_sh1ft/Zage%20-%20Post%20Install/1003011254.jpg

[Brian]

What happened to your downpipe? Did it break? It almost looks like it was cut.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Looks like the weld let go.

[Yoda]

Yup that happened to mine and that's when I went open downpipe. It was for me all the vibrations and the degree of the bend I had. Over time it broke.

[Bluevitz-rs]

The weld doesn't look like it had any penetration. Was this one a custom down pipe or is it part of the zage kit?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

It broke at the weld - that's why it looks like a perfect cut. Pretty annoying :rolleyes:

Anyhoo, planning on doing some professional tuning next week. I do still suspect a vacuum leak and would also like to do ignition timing.

Otherwise I'm trying to figure out where to go from here. I'm never going to raise the boost as I need this car to be somewhat reliable. Currently I'm thinking of actually switching to a top mount intercooler(+functional hood scoop) and maybe adding meth injection with like 75% water and 25% meth (since meth is just eh with only 8ish psi).

[pimp my yaris]

This down pipe is definitley repairable. You need to install a stainless mesh flex joint and have it welded in at a exhaust shop. I had one installed on my custom downpipe and never had a problem. Check the bottom of page six on my thread and there is a picture of the one I used. U can make a pressure tester to check 4boost leaks. My friend made one for his 932 hp e85 supra and found 4 boost leaks. Now he has much more torque and less lag. He used a piece of silicon hose attached to the turbo inlet that had a round piece of aluminum to block off the end. Then he installed a 3/8 air hose quick connect fitting by threading it into the aluminum block off plate. Then he used a compressor with a regulator set to 5 psi and charged the intake with the engine off. He then just listened for all the spots where the air leaked out. He could not believe all the leaks he found. He is running 32 psi of boost now with no leaks. He also said all the hose clamps with a T-bolt were leaking. Now he installed screw type hose clamps and they are holding good. Hope this helps.

[A-Dingo-Ate-My-Baby]

worlds worst welding job

[pimp my yaris]

On a second look U may need to have it rewelded at the crack because its on the bend. And have the flex joint installed on the strait portion of the pipe. U can buy flex joints that are only 3-4 inches long.

[Yoda]

Weld it right back at the spot and the weld in some support bars. It wont break after that.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Thanks guys. I literally had it repaired an hour after I posted that up lol. Obviously it's going to be a temporary solution, and I'm especially worried about that other weld joint. Definitely liking the mesh flex joint though. Next time it breaks I'll have one added.

If I had a compressor I would definitely do leak testing... Anyone know of a place that rents em out? Otherwise, I'll just have a tuner look for leaks while we're tuning.

[ilikerice]

A compressor is a wonderful thing to invest in. I bought mine from Harbor Frieght about 6 years ago and is still compressing 235psi weekly. If you are able to get a hold of a compressor check this thread out to make your own 5 dollar boost leak tester:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/209898-build-boost-leak-tester-your-to4e.html

DSM guys are awesome when it comes to help with turbo's for cheap. I made something like this for my crx. easy to use, easy to make

[Focus_Sh1ft]

So last week I took the turbo out to check for shaft play since it's been in now for a little over a year. Also had to remove a broken stem from where the downpipe mounts up. Been putting this off for awhile because taking the turbo off this car is such a god damn burden lol.

Anyway, shaft play is just dandy which I was glad to see. I've also made some progress on my ongoing boost leak battle. I believe the problem is on the exhaust side - specifically where the manifold mounts up to the block. That broken stem wasn't exactly helping either. AND it turns out when I originally reclocked the turbo I had stretched the actuator and thus put preload on the spring (oops :p). When I get time I need to check it out more.

[pimp my yaris]

Exhaust leaks suck. I have had my share.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

More problems...

I'm misfiring BADLY. Literally if I even get on the throttle moderately it completely misses and almost stalls. I can't even build past like 1.5 psi of boost (even if I accelerate slowly...). Gas quality wasn't the problem so hopefully it's something plug related. The plugs are less than 10k miles old so I can't imagine they would already be fouled. No diagnostic codes either.

[cali yaris]

Check the coils too.

[fnkngrv]

Check the coils too.


+1

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Went to go work on the exhaust leak today. In the process I immediately noticed the actuator had no spring pressure. As soon as I started toying with it, the rod fell right out of the actuator. Unbelievable... I can't figure out how to get it back in (if even possible) so it looks like I'll be buying a new one. The best part is that Zage torqued the actuator bracket bolts so hard that I broke the heads off of BOTH of them trying to get them out.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Sounds like the Zage kit is adding up to be a "get what'cha pay for" kind of kit after a few thousand miles have been put on it. Unfortunate.

[cali yaris]

^ With a warranty. Interesting that no one asks.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Oh well that changes my view a bit. But there has been quite a few issues.

Garm, we're you still putting together your own kit?

[Bigbadturboguy]

The kit is cheaply made. You do get what you pay for. But if your looking for an enexpensive way for a little fun it's about the only way to go out of the box. Good luck on a warranty.


There is a new kit in the works with a Precision Turbo and a Haltech Sprint 500 with plug and play harness on its way out. And it's even coming with a tune already built in!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah I'm definitely a little disappointed but it isn't THAT big of a problem. Given all the little problems over the last year it's clear that this isn't the best kit, but the price is completely fair.

Garm - I didn't buy the kit from you lol. Even if Zage does have a warranty, I don't have the time to wait on shipping from Indonesia.

[cali yaris]

Good luck on a warranty.

Thanks Aras/xbgod, but I really do have warranty turbos on the shelf for my customers. It's how we roll at Micro Image.

@ focus, I can probably do a warranty anyway, and deal with Zage directly for you.

[Bigbadturboguy]

Its great you warranty the Turbo for them, I would too as long as it was manufacture related. However I wouldn't, Sell a kit that anyone can call and get direct from Zage for 1,100.00. And 200.00 for freight direct from them. They cut their dealers right out. Just go to alibaba.com they sell right there to anyone. Even that light weight pulley your selling you can buy it from there to for 20-25 dollars depending on which Chineese manufacture you want to buy from.

[cali yaris]

^ And get no service and no warranty. That would be a stupid choice as a customer.

I would too as long as it was manufacture related.

I guess we'll see about that, Aras. I hope so.

[ilikerice]

Customer service FTW.

[cali yaris]

Even that light weight pulley your selling you can buy it from there to for 20-25 dollars depending on which Chineese manufacture you want to buy from.

Incorrect. Mine is 100% designed and made in the USA. :thumbsup:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Had to drill the bolts out. I tried to tap the holes and failed... I guess I should get a competent mechanic to do it for me? Otherwise new actuator is on the way. I'm just wondering how long that previous actuator has been screwing my boost...

[cali yaris]

^ I would with any part that matters. You're more mechanical than I am, but tapping should be done right, I think.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Alright everything's back to normal. I definitely hope this is the last time I say this but - I'm going to try and get the ignition tuned and up on the dyno to find the remaining leak(s).

[cali yaris]

"yaayyyy!"

http://itstheknit.drvono.com/uploaded_images/badideabears-771451.jpg

[maxthehax]

I understand you so much Lol!

People can say what they want, but I dont think the kit is cheap. People who say things like that have never really experienced what it is to put a turbo on a uncomom car! There is always a little something to tweak, and only with time you will fix every little things. But you need to live them before!

I have my own turbo kit that I run for about 6 months now, with only a base tune on Aem FIc. And still now I have never really feel the real potential on the car because I cannot... First of all I put a too small turbo 2 times! and now waiting for the good one (well I think this time is good!)...

Anyway, not gonna write all my life :P Just wanna wish you a good luck!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Updated this also. It's been 2 years and four months now and things are going quite well. Here are the problems I've had with the kit so far

-Oil return. Tapping the block proved to be the better option
-BOV. Quality is questionable and I would recommend an aftermarket one.
-Actuator broke. Replacing it was easy and only $20. Finding the right size bracket can be tricky though.
-Downpipe weld gave out. Local mechanic welded it back up same day free of charge.
-Worm-gear clamps are sub-par. I had a crap ton of leaks coming from the couplers as a result. I'd recommend replacing them with t-clamps.
-One of the clamps actually sheared a hole in my AC line (down by the radiator/ac compressor). This can probably be attributed to user error.

[cali yaris]

whoa. Thread revival. I miss my tC.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Heya Garm!

You'll be happy to know the tC is in GREAT condition. I definitely commend you for building such an amazing car. She's currently sleeping in the (heated) garage for the winter, but come spring she'll be spending a decent amount of time at the track I hope. :biggrin:

I'll do some updates in the spring. I also need to make an attempt to get back into the community here... Glad to see some more people have turboed, but let's be real - there needs to be many more turbo yaris owners! :tongue:

BTW, I'm going to need some "goodies" from you in a few days.

[cali yaris]

^ Happy to accomodate! and GREAT to see you online again. :clap:

[kou]

Focus_sh1ft we will have to do a turbo yaris meet when I get mine finished.

[jb1]

this thread was sofa king helpful mane. how much HP did you get out of this ???????

[TheEggYaris]

Focus I was wondering does the Boomslang Plug 'n Play Wiring Harness simplify this process at all?

[fnkngrv]

Focus I was wondering does the Boomslang Plug 'n Play Wiring Harness simplify this process at all?

You only currently have 2 options which will run you about the same amount of money which was proven by a member (CTScott):

1) Boomslang - breaks the heart and bank, but it is a plug and play which has different options for which management you use be it one of the piggybacks or a standalone. You essentially are injecting the PnP harness in the middle of things with certain wires either tapped or intercepted for signaling. The ends on the harness have male/female where required when it comes to plugging into the factory harness and the stock ECU. The BSlang also has a jumper to be able to run the car if needed without the management plugged in.

2) Custom Harness - time consuming and you had best have a lot of wiring knowledge.

[Martinezn.964]

Maybe i missed it but im curious how much hp have you gottn it on the dyno?:eyebulge:

[joyahmed3244]

hey is it on cvt trans?? is it possible on normal cvt transmission with modding anything? i have a 2011 jdm gs vitz

[LeprKoRn]

Hey Focus,

I contacted Zage about the kit. I pointed out the fact (made no reference to you) that drilling and tapping of the block was required back when you fitted the kit in 2010 for oil return due to excess blow by. Apparently they use a different, larger hose setup now.

Do you think this would remove the issue you experienced?

Cheers
Lep

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk

[bambam28]

Bump!

[Jerkratt]

Anyone have the ability to re upload the pictures in this thread?

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Anyone have the ability to re upload the pictures in this thread?

No need???

http://yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=509668&postcount=16

[Jerkratt]

No need???

http://yarisworld.com/forums/showpost.php?p=509668&postcount=16

Perfect! Ty!

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Perfect! Ty!

No problem. I wasn't sure if you were looking for the install guide pics, or other pics in this thread. :laugh:

[xDiiThy]

Hey Guys!

I have a 2013 Yaris and am looking at boosting as well! Looks like the Zage kit I might as well skip and go get a custom kit. These 2013 yaris are still running the 1.5L 1NZFE's

[DarkShadowFox]

is this 4AT U340E/U341F safe? someone told me the trans can handle an extra 50-100 hp. :T

[Jerkratt]

No problem. I wasn't sure if you were looking for the install guide pics, or other pics in this thread. :laugh:

btw little update...:thumbup:

[06YarisRS]

btw little update...:thumbup:

Nice! :thumbsup:

[Jerkratt]

Did a last minute look over yesterday as well as an oil & plug change. Car is set for drop off for tune the weekend of June 1st. *crosses fingers*

*edit* the wiper arms where installed incorrectly by the shop that worked on it last. They have been swapped since this picture.

[06YarisRS]

I bet you're getting excited for June 1. :thumbsup:

[Jerkratt]

I bet you're getting excited for June 1. :thumbsup:

Hell yeah

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Nice. Take some videos of the dyno tune pulls.

[06YarisRS]

is this 4AT U340E/U341F safe? someone told me the trans can handle an extra 50-100 hp. :T

When I was investigating turboing my 2zr-swapped Yaris, I made inquiries at Monkey Wrench racing and Turbokits. The impression I got from those outfits is that the U340 is good for up to 275 HP crank. Frankly, I would be very surprised if it could handle that much power. There was no mention of torque capacity. I bought an SAE paper on the U340E. It gives a figure of 150NM as the capacity which roughly translates to 110 ft/lbs. I expect that's just based up on what the 1.5 produces and does not represent the max capacity. I am not easy on mine, though I don't do burnouts and I installed a thermostatically-controlled fan and cooler. Even under boost the fluid stays in the 180 - 190 range and I have detected zero slipping. I do change my transmission fluid a lot more than recommended, not that it needs it but I like to give it the best fighting chance. Sometimes the shift might be rough when downshifting from OD. I like to manually shift from third to forth as I can keep it in the power band better and it makes for smoother shifting. Sorry, for being so long-winded, but I thought I'd give you my experiences with the trans.

[Jerkratt]

Nice. Take some videos of the dyno tune pulls.

IF I'm their most definitely. I'm dropping it off Friday. They have the call all weekend. I'm still working so chance that I might not see it and or don't forget it's a ground up haltech tune. Then I gotta break everything in.. 😂

[Kaotic Lazagna]

IF I'm their most definitely. I'm dropping it off Friday. They have the call all weekend. I'm still working so chance that I might not see it and or don't forget it's a ground up haltech tune. Then I gotta break everything in.. 😂

So I'm guessing it's like my friend's C6 Z06 with a supercharger. Base tune at first. Drive around for 500 miles or so to break everything in, and then go back to retune with higher psi???

[Jerkratt]

So I'm guessing it's like my friend's C6 Z06 with a supercharger. Base tune at first. Drive around for 500 miles or so to break everything in, and then go back to retune with higher psi???

Exactly, I have an engine, 1.5 Way Differential & clutch to break in.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Exactly, I have an engine, 1.5 Way Differential & clutch to break in.

So it'll be more than 500 miles to break everything in for you :laugh:

[Jerkratt]

So it'll be more than 500 miles to break everything in for you :laugh:

Ehh toughest part Is the figure 8's for the Kaaz. Everything else is just normal driving. Half hour of figure 8's accelerating straights coasting turns.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

Ehh toughest part Is the figure 8's for the Kaaz. Everything else is just normal driving. Half hour of figure 8's accelerating straights coasting turns.

Yeah, that's tough to do without attracting unwanted attention. Any private lot owners nearby that you can talk to and ask if you can do some 8s there (of course explaining why you have to)?

Did Kaaz say roughly how wide of a radius the 8s have to be?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Hey YW! Been quite awhile.

I wanted to share some FIC knowledge, as I recently ran into the dreaded stalling while idling/stalling while coming to a stop/stutter on rapid acceleration changes. What ultimately worked for me: change the cam and crank wires to tap only. So, MAGI+ and MAGI- are taps, and MAGO+ and MAGO- are unused. You'll still get RPM readings, however you'll lose ignition control (which I'm guessing isn't used for most applications anyway). Read on for more details -

Some background: I was one of the first to install the Zage turbo kit, way back in 2010. I tuned on the fic using open loop (both o2 sensors pulled) and ran that setup daily for 7 years before finally retiring the Yaris from daily duties. I had two issues with the fic during that time: the onboard pressure sensor failed (I ended up hooking up an external pressure sensor to the maf input of the fic) and the eeprom would no longer hold the tune when powered down (not a big deal, just rewired the fic to be connected to a +12v line rather than acc).

Late last year, I converted the Yaris from AT to MT. The whole thing went pretty well aside from the aforementioned issues starting. I did a ton of rework while I had the engine apart, including running grounds into the cabin for a killswitch and completely overhauling the vacuum setup to use a junction block (which was previously tees with tees with tees; I learned a lot these last 10 years, haha) and a recirculating bov. Naturally, I thought the issues were caused by something I had done. This led me down some rabbit holes...

First up was P0606. On first start, this code was set immediately. With the AT (which used an 08 ECU btw), I only ever had P0037. This manual ECU was an 07, so I thought different firmware with potentially slightly different error handling logic means potentially a different (but related) code could get set instead. This seemed reasonable given P0606 is generally either o2/throttle/ecu. Putting the o2 sensors back in with the fic bypassed didn't solve it. Nor did replacing the ecu with another 07. All readings from the throttle were within range. I still have this code - however at this point, I have to conclude this was not related to my problems at all.

My next thought was this had to be a vacuum leak. I had no evidence for this, and in fact, I was pulling perfect vacuum during idle. During vacuum tests, I noticed my brake booster was leaking during braking. I was certain this was the problem, as the car would stumble and recover on braking when running a bypassed fic with o2 sensors in, but would pretty consistently stall with the fic in and no o2 sensors. My thought was closed loop fueling was able to compensate for this conditional vacuum leak.

Replacing the booster didn't do it. I fumbled for awhile before remembering many people having trouble getting the fic working. I was fortunate to not be one of those at the time, but not only did I now have an MT ecu (I don't think anyone else turboed an AT at the time), I also had a different model year. Perhaps it was the interplay between the fic and new ecu? I zeroed out the maps and put the o2 sensors back in. The engine warmed up and began stumbling. Sure enough.

I tried all sorts of configurations in the fic, including trying all the firmwares, with no luck. After some reading, I was certain the resistor mod was going to do it, but nope. Still, I was now convinced this was my issue - the fic doing incorrect things with the cam/crank signals. It seemed if the fic wasn't intercepting signals, it likely wouldn't be able to manipulate them. There was also the concern if a tap would be enough to read rpm, as that was tuned against. I gave it a shot and fired it up - perfect idle. Took the car out and did some hard pulls - completely smooth. Finally.

It's hard to believe I've had this car for over 14 years... So much living has happened during that time. One thing is for sure; I wish I hadn't waited 14 years to swap in a manual. The Yaris was fun before, but now it's an absolute riot.

I'm sure I've said it before, but it's obviously been awhile so I'll say it again - thank you. This community got me to where I am today.

See you all in another 10 years. ;)

[06YarisRS]

Hey YW! Been quite awhile.

I wanted to share some FIC knowledge, as I recently ran into the dreaded stalling while idling/stalling while coming to a stop/stutter on rapid acceleration changes. What ultimately worked for me: change the cam and crank wires to tap only. So, MAGI+ and MAGI- are taps, and MAGO+ and MAGO- are unused. You'll still get RPM readings, however you'll lose ignition control (which I'm guessing isn't used for most applications anyway). Read on for more details -

Some background: I was one of the first to install the Zage turbo kit, way back in 2010. I tuned on the fic using open loop (both o2 sensors pulled) and ran that setup daily for 7 years before finally retiring the Yaris from daily duties. I had two issues with the fic during that time: the onboard pressure sensor failed (I ended up hooking up an external pressure sensor to the maf input of the fic) and the eeprom would no longer hold the tune when powered down (not a big deal, just rewired the fic to be connected to a +12v line rather than acc).

Late last year, I converted the Yaris from AT to MT. The whole thing went pretty well aside from the aforementioned issues starting. I did a ton of rework while I had the engine apart, including running grounds into the cabin for a killswitch and completely overhauling the vacuum setup to use a junction block (which was previously tees with tees with tees; I learned a lot these last 10 years, haha) and a recirculating bov. Naturally, I thought the issues were caused by something I had done. This led me down some rabbit holes...

First up was P0606. On first start, this code was set immediately. With the AT (which used an 08 ECU btw), I only ever had P0037. This manual ECU was an 07, so I thought different firmware with potentially slightly different error handling logic means potentially a different (but related) code could get set instead. This seemed reasonable given P0606 is generally either o2/throttle/ecu. Putting the o2 sensors back in with the fic bypassed didn't solve it. Nor did replacing the ecu with another 07. All readings from the throttle were within range. I still have this code - however at this point, I have to conclude this was not related to my problems at all.

My next thought was this had to be a vacuum leak. I had no evidence for this, and in fact, I was pulling perfect vacuum during idle. During vacuum tests, I noticed my brake booster was leaking during braking. I was certain this was the problem, as the car would stumble and recover on braking when running a bypassed fic with o2 sensors in, but would pretty consistently stall with the fic in and no o2 sensors. My thought was closed loop fueling was able to compensate for this conditional vacuum leak.

Replacing the booster didn't do it. I fumbled for awhile before remembering many people having trouble getting the fic working. I was fortunate to not be one of those at the time, but not only did I now have an MT ecu (I don't think anyone else turboed an AT at the time), I also had a different model year. Perhaps it was the interplay between the fic and new ecu? I zeroed out the maps and put the o2 sensors back in. The engine warmed up and began stumbling. Sure enough.

I tried all sorts of configurations in the fic, including trying all the firmwares, with no luck. After some reading, I was certain the resistor mod was going to do it, but nope. Still, I was now convinced this was my issue - the fic doing incorrect things with the cam/crank signals. It seemed if the fic wasn't intercepting signals, it likely wouldn't be able to manipulate them. There was also the concern if a tap would be enough to read rpm, as that was tuned against. I gave it a shot and fired it up - perfect idle. Took the car out and did some hard pulls - completely smooth. Finally.

It's hard to believe I've had this car for over 14 years... So much living has happened during that time. One thing is for sure; I wish I hadn't waited 14 years to swap in a manual. The Yaris was fun before, but now it's an absolute riot.

I'm sure I've said it before, but it's obviously been awhile so I'll say it again - thank you. This community got me to where I am today.

See you all in another 10 years. ;)

Interesting reading! Looking forward to spring when I can resume work on my car. I have been considering an alternative to the FIC for one reason - long hot starts. If it's cool out or even really freezing, the car starts immediately on a key turn. If the engine is warm or it's a hot day, it cranks and cranks before it will start. I have adjusted the fuel table in the startup rpm range, no luck. I initially thought it had to do with overfueling, but now wonder if it's related to crank position, though I don't know what that would have to do with termperature. Otherwise the car runs great. I didn't wire in my cams at all.