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View Full Version : JUN Releases Camshafts for the 1NZ-FE


changchewsoon
10-03-2010, 04:07 PM
Dropped by my tuner's place 2 weeks ago and they showed me the newly arrived camshafts from JUN.

They've been working with JUN for the past couple months to develop these cams, there are 3 types available:

Best of all, VVT-i functionality is retained.

1. 256 duration, 9.0mm lift (street spec)
2. 272 duration, 9.5mm lift (NA)
3. 272 duration, 10.5mm lift (turbo)

According to them, JUN won't be releasing these cams to US shores so soon yet.

I recently help sent a pair of 256s to my friend in Singapore last week. Hopefully he has got them installed and can send me a dyno chart to share.

I'm getting a set of 272 turbo for myself. Let me know if you're interested, I could ask my tuner to ship a set to you.

sleey0
10-03-2010, 05:14 PM
EST pricing?

For the 272's.

cali yaris
10-03-2010, 05:32 PM
well over $1600 for a pair of cams.

I expressed interest in distributing them here, but I'll never be able to sell them at that price. I'm sure they are good quality, but I even passed for my own car.

sleey0
10-03-2010, 05:36 PM
Garm so rods and pistons is really like the meat and potatoes if u want to increas the engines capabilities?

Nexus1155
10-03-2010, 07:20 PM
Are these custom made cams from Cam blanks or are these just regrinds? I know some cams aren't able to give any power unless they differ greatly from original spec so they need to grind from a new blank instead.

Bluevitz-rs
10-03-2010, 08:28 PM
^ for $1600 I hope they aren't regrinds.

severous01
10-03-2010, 09:15 PM
Garm so rods and pistons is really like the meat and potatoes if u want to increas the engines capabilities?

if you think about it like this... you'll understand:

the pistons and crank are the legs and arms....the workers and get stuff done. the intake and exhaust is the mouth and butt...taking in and letting it all out. and then the brains behind all the operation...how much air is taken in, how much air is let out...is the cam.

Valve Lift- Well this is the easy one, The distance that the lobe of the cam lifts the tappet multiplied by the rocker arm ratio determines the valve lift. Everyone knows this one!

Duration- The time in which the valve is off the seat during tappet lift, measured in CRANKSHAFT degrees. As there has to be some point in which you begin to measure the lift of a cam there are usually two figures given on a spec card. The Advertised Duration and the Duration at some arbitrarily chosen point (Usually .050" lift) Some manufacturers use a different amount of lift and this can cause confusion Most Cam manufacturers use the .050" figure, but it is wise to be sure when comparing different grinds. When checking a cam you should always check it at the tappet rather than the valve because of minor variations due to lash, and rocker arm ratio.

Centerline- The Centerline of a Cam is the actual position or phasing of the cam in relation to the Crankshaft. To wit: The position of the center line of the #1 INTAKE Lobe of the cam in relation to the position of the #1 Piston measured in Crankshaft degrees of rotation AFTER TDC. This is the figure that is used when we talk about 'Degreeing " a cam.

Lobe Separation - This is the PHYSICAL configuration of the cam in relation to the actual spacing of the intake and exhaust lobes from each other. Lobe separation is ground into the camshaft. You CANNOT change it (Unless you reground the cam). You CAN change the Centerline by degreeing. These two terms are often confused with each other.

Base Circle - This is the lowest part of the cam lobe also referred to sometimes as the "Heel" of the cam. This is the fully closed position of the valve. This is also where you should make your valve adjustments. If you adjust your valve lash at any other point on the cam, you will have problems. We will discuss the proper way to adjust your valves later on.

Some stroker motors require the use of a "Reduced Base Circle cam" in order to clear the rods. These cams are ground with a smaller base diameter and require some specialized components such as longer pushrods.

Symmetrical - A cam that is Symmetrical has both sides of the cam lobe exactly the same. In other words, the intake ramp of the cam lobe that accelerates the lifter to actuate the valve has the same shape as the portion of the ramp on the downside of the lobe that lowers the lifter. These designs are very easy on the valvetrain as it is a smooth transition from open to closed.

Asymmetrical - An Asymmetrical cam has opening and closing ramps that are unlike and unequal. This profiles usually found on high performance cams and offers a high velocity opening and a lower velocity closing ramp in order to snap the valve open quickly and then set it back down more gently.

Dual Pattern - Again, a grind that is usually found in a high performance cam. The Intake lobe configuration is different from the exhaust lobe. Usually the exhaust lobe is ground with slightly more duration that the intake lobe. Small block Chevy engines really like more duration on the exhaust in most cases. A single pattern cam (Both lobes giving the same amount of duration) work well in street engines.

Cam Walk - A phenomenon that occurs with Roller cams due to slight inaccuracies in the lifter bore spacing. Most Roller cams use a cam button to control the tendency of the cam to unscrew itself from the block. Bushing the lifter bores can control this problem but is very expensive. A cam button will work quite well in 90% of cases.

severous01
10-03-2010, 09:17 PM
^ for $1600 I hope they aren't regrinds.

for 1600 i hope they come with more than the cams. like maybe a hot chick willin to do anything you want whenever you want...

or, like injectors, fuel management, programming assistance, installation, and tuning...

Bluevitz-rs
10-03-2010, 09:31 PM
Just to add to your description, there is also Cam on Bucket as inside the 1NZ-FE. The Cam pushes directly on the top of the valve so there is no rocker ratio to put into the lift and duration.

Nexus1155
10-03-2010, 10:43 PM
For custom cams and not just regrinds, $1200 seems pretty legit, $1600 if you have a reputable name to your company :P

xbgod
10-03-2010, 11:16 PM
This kit would need to come with more than just the cams. It would also need buckets and springs. If you never pulled the head and cams apart on this stock set-up then your in for a rude awakening. The tollerance's are very tight. You will not be able to just use a set of after market cams with your stock buckets and springs. I called Jun about 2 weeks ago to verify the cams and they are doing a set but it dosen't sound like they've gotten to the buckets or springs.

Buyer be ware.

XBG

jcemitte
10-04-2010, 10:15 PM
well there is some pretty smart people in here lol,... noob suggestion what about the FERREA valve garms got for sale? or would it have to be JUN cams specific springs and buckets or seats or what ever is in there... it would seem like valves and cams would make this motor a lot more fun. 'course <----noob

hatchbackkid82
10-05-2010, 09:30 AM
JUN cams + Ferrea Valve kit= not worth the money spent.

It's almost cheaper to just pick up a used SC kit or get a custom turbo kit

xbgod
10-06-2010, 08:48 AM
With any type of new performance cam set for this motor you will need custom buckets and springs.

None of the OEM buckets will work with the after-market set up.

The only other solution is to do new valve lengths and do backwards math on the buckets.

After many hours with Joey V. From Vance & Hines and Webb cams along with Bill Gude the best solution for cams at this point is from Gude Performance.

He can make you just a set of cams w/new springs and buckets or do a whole race head like mine with a O-ringed head, copper gasket, race cam set w/new valves, springs, lockers, retainers and buckets.

Like I've said there is no easy solution for this head. The stock buckets and springs do not allow for much play.

Unless your doing a race set-up it's not worth your time and money to yield 15-30hp depending on cam type.

XBG

changchewsoon
10-09-2010, 03:00 PM
hi guys, just got back from a long business trip.....the list price that JUN is positioning for these camshafts are 135,000 yen so hopefully they can lower it in the future to make them more affordable....

my tuner told me that they're continuing the development with JUN for the valve springs and retainers.....a set just came in couple days ago...i'll try to snap some pictures of it before they put it in my car....

and yeah, the JUN cams are definitely not regrinded....they are made from blank cams...

sleey0
10-09-2010, 03:12 PM
Good stuff but a LOT of cash to throw down!

GL!
!

xbgod
10-09-2010, 04:20 PM
Not worth 1,635.00 USD. for about a 30 hp gain. And that is if you come up with the rest of the stuff to make it work. You already know you will need new buckets and springs. Lockers and retainer are irrelevant. Right now you have a set of useless cams without custom buckets and springs.

Gude Performance has this system already in play and it comes with custom buckets and springs which are made by Eibach. The number one spring company around.

JUN will never be able to move those cams for that price even with buckets and springs.

XBG

Nexus1155
10-09-2010, 06:32 PM
Well even Scionlife people are working with WEBB Cams over GUDE anyways, they are bad mouthing GUDE something fierce. I don't know why yet, but both people who have gotten their work done by him have just dissapeared from the forum, hopefully from having too much fun. You, xbgod might be the only person to report something to us about Gude, positive or not.

xbgod
10-10-2010, 03:15 AM
Nexus,

Here's the bottom line on all of this. Webb is a great cam company, I enjoy working with them. The problem with this motor of ours is not even Webb can make the springs or custom ground Buckets to make their cams work. They can make you a awsome cam grind to what ever you like but then your on your own for the rest. Webb likes to use Vance&hines to do this other work but after talking with Joe V. from Vance & Hines they don't want the aggervation of this head with so little demand in their eyes.

People are bad mouthing Gude on the issue of no proven dyno numbers and the way he operates and People think his web-site is crappy.

Like I've always said a picture is worth a thousand words and so is pretty packaging. Which is what most people need to see to feel secure in their purchase.

Gude is old school, no facy box, no 800 number, no huge sales staff standing by. It's him and his wife and a few employees. If you take the time to look up Bill Gude you will see he is a Aerospace Engineer and has done numerous military projects and has been in the performance business for 20 years.

They take the family approach with their customers no fancy bullshit just straight talk. The people that have gotten 1NZ-FE head packages from him have also taken them apart and are now having problems putting them back together. Like the guy from this site that got one. I just talked to bill and he told me that this person had to send his stuff back in for reassembly because he took it apart for what ever reason and cant get the proper clearences now. So Bill "For free" is putting it all back for him. It's these things you don't hear about.

People consume them selves with a fancy label or a high-end sales team. One thing I do know from this racing busineess is that most of highest HP motors are done by shops and people you would never know. These guys are real secret like and don't care to sell to the masses. It's like Pro -Stock NHRA racing these guys that do the head and cams for these motors are so secret that good luck finding a guy to do one for you.

The other thing I've seen around here is patience is in no ones fore-thought when building a motor. It takes time and more time. The head from Gude that I'm getting will have taken 3 months to get done. I asked for the works sparing no short cuts. I want to report back to you guys with great results.

Now not eveyone will do what I've done but it will be a platform for all to work from.

So with my advice Bill Gude is still the number one guy to go to for this motor at this time.

XBG

cali yaris
10-10-2010, 01:18 PM
The only problem with a total build like yours is that no one will ever know how much each part contributed to the power you get. You won't be able to say the head or the cams or any particular element made X horsepower for you. It's not a criticism, as I did the same thing.

People are just not going to buy a product until they see some proof of what that product (and only that product) does for a power gain.

I think the manufacturer has a responsibility to take a stock car, dyno it, put on their part, and dyno it again. Maybe we will just disagree on that detail.

Parmas
10-10-2010, 01:32 PM
I like both answers of XBG and Garm fullstop!

xbgod
10-10-2010, 01:33 PM
no Garm I don't disagree, you are right without a baseline dyno on a N/A motor you'll never know.

The only real input I will be able to give everyone is how well it looks how well it's assembled and the craftsmanship of the parts.

XBG

cali yaris
10-10-2010, 10:42 PM
^ and your final numbers! :eek:

xbgod
10-11-2010, 01:53 AM
Yes, my final numbers.....that will interesting. I think I have like 22 boxes of parts waiting on me at home now.

Well guys it will be a week or so before my next post. My flight was delayed yesterday but today I'm on the move.

Will chat when I'm state side in a few day or so.

XBG

Flipper_1938
10-30-2010, 01:17 PM
!

moh
11-20-2010, 01:16 PM
waiting for result ..

H3LlIoN
11-22-2010, 11:17 AM
The people that have gotten 1NZ-FE head packages from him have also taken them apart and are now having problems putting them back together. Like the guy from this site that got one. I just talked to bill and he told me that this person had to send his stuff back in for reassembly because he took it apart for what ever reason and cant get the proper clearences now. So Bill "For free" is putting it all back for him. It's these things you don't hear about.

AFAIK, I am the only "guy from this site that got one" and this is untrue. I never sent anything back to Bill. However, the head didn't come assembled....he sent the shims/buckets in separate packaging. It was pretty easy to get them all back in though, as he had sharpied each one so we knew what went where. Perhaps you are thinking of someone from a different site.

Shinare
11-22-2010, 01:17 PM
Not worth 1,635.00 USD. for about a 30 hp gain....

I don't know... I see people laying out $3,800 for a blitz supercharger only to get like 50-80 hp extra.... If my rounding in my head figuring is correct, that's about right, heh.

thebarber
11-22-2010, 01:27 PM
$100/hp is average....

$60/hp is a good deal

cali yaris
11-22-2010, 02:55 PM
Shinare, are you including management and tuning?
$1635 doesn't include install or tuning. I don't see how you could avoid CELs just bolting in cams and beating up on the car.

The Blitz comes pre-tuned with its own management - a big plus for people who don't want to experiment or don't have access to or funds for dyno tuning.

Shinare
11-22-2010, 04:24 PM
^^ True, I'm just sayin its odd to hear someone balk at $1,600 for a comparatively good gain in hp on our engines when there's much more expensive things to buy out there. :smile: I know nothing about the matter really, a noob wrencher here. Thats why I'm looking forward to your all-in-one turbo kit sometime in the future.

xbgod
11-22-2010, 08:17 PM
My head went on today from Gude with no issues or problems. We measured everything and rechecked all tolorances. Putting it back to TDC and getting correct timming was a breeze. New pics soon to follow and headed to CFT to retune Monday the 29th.

XBG

H3LlIoN
11-22-2010, 08:26 PM
Mine had lateral gear alignment issues, so we just had someone mill a custom timing gear and balance for it...all problems solved and running nice.

Bluevitz-rs
11-22-2010, 08:29 PM
... running nice.

Have you dynoed it yet? Still curious about actual power gains.

H3LlIoN
11-22-2010, 08:29 PM
I don't see how you could avoid CELs just bolting in cams and beating up on the car.

Gude head/cams have not thrown any CEL's as of yet. As per management, I will have the camcon settings from the dyno guy on Monday, as long as he still is game to play with it.

H3LlIoN
11-22-2010, 08:30 PM
Have you dynoed it yet? Still curious about actual power gains.


Dyno appt set for Monday @ 10. Head/Cams, then Head/Cams/Camcon. Unable to dyno just the cams...they won't fit in the stock head.

Bluevitz-rs
11-22-2010, 08:31 PM
Awesome!

Edit: wait, today at 10 or next monday at 10 LOL.

H3LlIoN
11-22-2010, 08:42 PM
Next Monday...couldn't get me in before then b/c of holiday.

Dr.DevILL
05-17-2016, 10:20 PM
this is hella old and I feel like a scrub responding, but I'm in the hole on my yaris, and it definitely needs some serious upgrades if I'm going to have it for such a long time

fnkngrv
05-20-2016, 01:15 AM
You can purchase JUN cams directly and save easily several hundred bucks. You could also contact Web Cams to see about regrinds.

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

rabbito
05-21-2016, 05:40 AM
my cousin has them on
his yaris sedan....rpm just jumps with the car..hp gain is pretty high too but its way too much money for me(broke ass)...he also added piggy back ecu with E85 conversion..$1600 is worth that hp..😃😃😃😃😃😃

Sent from my SM-J700F using Tapatalk

Tima122
06-03-2016, 01:06 AM
У меня установоены jun 264 in/ex.

Yargh-Is
01-03-2017, 07:33 PM
I have been doing some massive mods to my 1NZ-FE on my 2009 3DR Yaris, including the latest addition...JUN high lift camshafts. However what I received in the mail was two JUN camshafts that are defective/unfinished. Check out the pics...has anyone else had this experience with JUN. The mechanic at JUN told the distributor I purchased through that these are good to go at "high RPM." Many of my motor head friends and myself think that is a joke...these definitely need MORE WORK...unfinished edges, and ramps not even the same width!!

Looking forward to hearing what some of you think.

http://i64.tinypic.com/2cy4kes.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/zmz1j8.jpg
http://i68.tinypic.com/10qffbt.jpg

Yargh-Is
01-03-2017, 07:51 PM
I have been doing some massive mods to my 1NZ-FE on my 2009 3DR Yaris, including the latest addition...JUN high lift camshafts. However what I received in the mail was two JUN camshafts that are defective/unfinished. Check out the pics...has anyone else had this experience with JUN. The mechanic at JUN told the distributor I purchased through that these are good to go at "high RPM." Many of my motor head friends and myself think that is a joke...these definitely need MORE WORK...unfinished edges, and ramps not even the same width!!

Looking forward to hearing what some of you think.

http://i68.tinypic.com/10qffbt.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/zmz1j8.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/2cy4kes.jpg

Bluevitz-rs
01-09-2017, 11:33 PM
The just look like they're shitty castings. You can clean up the side with a file or small sanding wheel.

KimmoKekki
01-10-2017, 12:39 AM
Put them back on the box and take them back where you buy them ... FFS 1635$ priced cams should be billet pipe cams !

Jason@SportsCar
01-10-2017, 01:16 AM
That is not how mine looked. The machining and finish of the metal looks way off. Certainly looks like those missed a step in production. I would send them back.

fnkngrv
01-10-2017, 09:00 AM
Yup....not acceptable. They need to go back.

Sent from m-o-b-i-l-e

NYC-SE
01-10-2017, 02:00 PM
Something's wrong. That looks like a failing project in high school metal shop. Advanced class perhaps but still failing grade.

Jason@SportsCar
01-10-2017, 02:10 PM
I dont think I have a closeup, but I have a couple of pics. Got mine back in 2012.

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/323589_118468668266270_178907366_o.jpg?oh=a4b4d5f8 926e64c2124b68b86c706e30&oe=58D961ED
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/411013_152190851560718_1071549056_o.jpg?oh=1e69ab4 4ee8629798200758ca92eb74c&oe=590FAC6F
https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/327380_160678244045312_1196439923_o.jpg?oh=47cc920 b0d2f73d943c6d63b51989eb6&oe=591BF2E5

Yargh-Is
01-10-2017, 03:08 PM
Awesome guys!

I appreciate the input. RHDJapan (a distributor for JUN) is fighting me on this. I already submitted dispute for transaction and awaiting to hear back.

Thank you for providing your input and pictures to match. They should definitely assist in the dispute.

Once this gets resolved and I am finished with the mods, I will provide some pics of the rebuild, etc. Main mods include: Blitz supercharger, CP pistons, BC rods and springs, JUN camshafts obviously, 1ZZ injectors, larger diameter throttle body, DC exhaust header, K&N cold air intake, NST pulleys, Clutchmasters light weight flywheel & clutch, Tanabe strut tower and stabilizer bar, MagnaFlow catalytic convertor, TRD sports exhaust, Mishimoto oil cooler. I am sure I am missing a few, but you get the idea.

Thanks again guys, to be continued...

Jason@SportsCar
01-10-2017, 04:20 PM
Awesome guys!

I appreciate the input. RHDJapan (a distributor for JUN) is fighting me on this. I already submitted dispute for transaction and awaiting to hear back.

Thank you for providing your input and pictures to match. They should definitely assist in the dispute.

Once this gets resolved and I am finished with the mods, I will provide some pics of the rebuild, etc. Main mods include: Blitz supercharger, CP pistons, BC rods and springs, JUN camshafts obviously, 1ZZ injectors, larger diameter throttle body, DC exhaust header, K&N cold air intake, NST pulleys, Clutchmasters light weight flywheel & clutch, Tanabe strut tower and stabilizer bar, MagnaFlow catalytic convertor, TRD sports exhaust, Mishimoto oil cooler. I am sure I am missing a few, but you get the idea.

Thanks again guys, to be continued...

Should be a rocket. Double check your pistons compression ratio before you do final assembly, my CP's were low.

Yargh-Is
01-22-2017, 10:40 AM
Thanks for the heads up Jason, will do!

ArmstrongRacing
01-23-2017, 09:28 PM
Holy cow you spared no expense on this build. I'd love to see the dyno numbers