Sleey0's Turbo Projec!

[sleey0]

As requested all answers and issues will be discussed here.

Met a guy that has a shop, access to dyno, can pull engine and do pistons and rods, and is willing to do it all! Works out great as he is near me:) Forget the 85$/hr stuff 90 miles away.

Cliff, buddy, you are my savior!

So here goes:
1ZZ or Tc injectors
Denso Ik22's (already bought new for $25. Gotta LOVE amazon lol)
Zage kit minus oil pan and IC (mushimoto - anyone know which will fit I have a link. (http://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMINT-UZB-Black-Universal-Intercooler/dp/B00368PEQ8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1286226472&sr=8-1))
AEM FIC
AEK METH KIT
Crower Rods and pistons (xbg - please contact me ASAP)
All guages necessary like boost, wideband, etc

Can we use the gloshift oil filter sandwhich adapter for feed only or can it be used for oil pressure reading?

We are also going to drill my block for return. Stock oil pan to the rescue!!!

My buddy has an idea for those pesky AC lines next to the ecu - use t-pipe or 90 deg elbow and either some stainless or AC rated rubber lines to move out the way. He said that would be cake.

Also, I MIGHT move the OEM ecu into the cabin by the glovebox or Heat shield it really good if left in the engine bay.

The dude can paint, has access to lifts, and will also tune the car with the Dyno either free or for darn cheap.

METH KIT- Going to most likely use the spare tire well and if u haven't already noticed there is a grommet in there that allows access to under the chassis.

So, Anything missing? Any thoughts?

This project will be ongoing and I might play with a Blitz sc first until the rest of my funds come in to do the turbo.

Also, would pistons/rods/sleeves be a good idea right off the bat or wait?

EDIT: Scrapped

Anything else?

Any info or bashing whatever. Just speak your mind here.

Love these boards and wish me luck!!!!! I will need it although Cliff has been working on cars, boosted or not, for years.

Oh, and he also welds and can get me a dowpipe-back exhaust made for cheap!

Things just turned for the better today folks!!!!!!!

:headbang::burnrubber:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Didn't even read it yet but.

HALLELUJAH

:bow::bow:

Now answer my question in the other thread.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Can we use the gloshift oil filter sandwhich adapter for feed only or can it be used for oil pressure reading? Both. Do it.

We are also going to drill my block for return. Stock oil pan to the rescue!!! If I wasn't lazy I'd have done the same.

My buddy has an idea for those pesky AC lines next to the ecu - use t-pipe or 90 deg elbow and either some stainless or AC rated rubber lines to move out the way. He said that would be cake.
Uh, just disconnect them, install turbo, reconnect lines. Recharge and you're set?

Also, I MIGHT move the OEM ecu into the cabin by the glovebox or Heat shield it really good if left in the engine bay. Nah, ECU will be fine unless you're running a campfire under the hood. O2 wires are another story though.

The dude can paint, has access to lifts, and will also tune the car with the Dyno either free or for darn cheap. North NJ sucks.

METH KIT- Going to most likely use the spare tire well and if u haven't already noticed there is a grommet in there that allows access to under the chassis.
You sir, will be the guinnea pig for this. If all goes well I'll follow suite. DON'T BACK OUT. :thumbsup:

So, Anything missing? Any thoughts?

This project will be ongoing and I might play with a Blitz sc first until the rest of my funds come in to do the turbo. Ok.

Also, would pistons/rods/sleeves be able to hold up a twin charged engine around 13-15psi? Uhh....

I am thinking of a large fixed pulley on the blitz to make low boost for instant power (say 3psi max). Then let the blower take over after 2k RPM's. Just a thought as no one has done it, and prolly for good reason. Interesting, immediate low end increase. Methinks it's money wasted though if you have a quick spooling turbo.

Or is there more I will need to do?

Any info or bashing whatever. Just speak your mind here. Ok.

Love these boards and wish me luck!!!!! I will need it although Cliff has been working on cars, boosted or not, for years. Luck to you.

Oh, and he also welds and can get me a dowpipe-back exhaust made for cheap! Delicious.

Things just turned for the better today folks!!!!!!! Yay. .

[KCALB SIRAY]

If you need a Blitz, I have mine for sale dirt cheap!! Check the link below

[sleey0]

Thanks focus!

I knew you were just in my same sit not too long ago so you can relate to what I am going thru right now.

RE; twin charge. I MAY be able to get a dirt cheap blower and was just going to do it for show competitions, mainly.

Plus, since the Zage is dirt cheap, like garm said it gives you more $$ to spend eslewhere. lol

Thank you, focus. My name is Wes, BTW.

I like to be more personal. I don't call garm cali_yaris and RARELy call Aras xbg (well, it's shorter so meh??)

Thank you all for inspiring me to do this project!!!

Still need to know what amount of $$ I am looking at for pistons and rods. Hopefully Aras will let me know:)

[Nexus1155]

Everyone wants to do something crazy and something that no one has done yet, like XBGod. Its part of being human. I wanted to do K16 turbos on my S4, I got it done, made 10psi, didn't have time to fix the issues so I did something tried and true. I didn't know why I tried that, the car is ridiculously fast now on bolt on turbos.

Do the turbo first, enjoy it for a while and see how you like it. With a small engine like this on a GT25 turbo it will be zippy enough that a supercharger won't really make a lick of difference.

If you are going to do pistons and rods you should be able to push enough power to make anyone happy.

Try to find a cheap beater in the mean time to drive. Atleast some $400 junk box on craigslist.

[sleey0]

Didn't even read it yet but.

HALLELUJAH

:bow::bow:

Now answer my question in the other thread.


What question in what thread lol.

Confused....

[cali yaris]

Meth kit should be closer to the motor. DO NOT run it outside. In stock btw.

No need to move the ECU.

Add a vented hood and an exhaust system to your list.

I will have oil sandwich adaptors in stock next week.

twin charging a Yaris is smart to make history and dumb to make power.

at 13 psi, you will need a fuel pump, larger injectors and possibly a return line. I know the stock pump gives up right about there.

[sleey0]

Well where in the ln the engine bay does.a gallon tank fit? Engine bay is the size of a cerial box!

And no i am not using the windshield washer tank.

Please enligbten me garm lol.

[cali yaris]

Mine is behind the passenger seat. Check where Echo put his in the MI thread.

You want big power? -- you just might have to give up something.

Just don't run the line under the chassis, please.

[sleey0]

Behind the seat isn't much longer in the spare tire bay in the hatch. ??

And, ok I will not run them under the chasis.

Thx

[Nexus1155]

JDM STI Meth Tank. Get something like this and bolt it to the back of your rear seats. You'll be good to go.

http://www.intertrick.org/nasioc/images/hydra/Hydramist/july09_trunk_shot.jpg

[xbgod]

Slow down Turbo.....one power adder only.

You would need to run two different fuel maps to run both and have someone with serious knowledge in tunning. I already thought about what your talking about and was going to do it years ago. It's just not worth the effort. You are going to run a small turbo anyways, so spool up time will be quick.

If you try and do all that stuff you will no longer have a daily driver. You will face challanges that most tunners can't even handle.

If you do trunk mount the meth kit you will need a electric silonoid like from a nitrous kit to feed the pump. Typically your resivor should be higher than your pump to gravity feed.

Snow Performance actually makes a much nicer kit than AEM. Call and talk to Karen over there she knows me personally. Tell her the XB guy sent you. or just ask for Matt Snow. They offer a much more extensive kit with electronics. Their kit is a little more but may be worth your situation.

I use AEM now because it's just more race oriented and Greg Nakono gave it to me.

Good building

XBG

[sleey0]

Awesome stff guys!

The meth kit I will leave for after the project. But the dude helping recommend it.

[sleey0]

Another update zage said kit without pan and intercooler is$ 1510

Not too bad but what about shipping? Lol

[sleey0]

Thanks for all the meth kit pics!! Really helps:)

Does AYNYONE know either the size of the zage IC or if that Mishimoto IC will fit.

Dimensions for the Mish are 28" x 7.5" x 2.5", Core Size: 20.5" x 6.25" x 2.25" <<--- Outer dim seem pretty small and specs on it are good for my app oh and plus it's inexpennive).

Anyone?

Later,
Wes

[Nexus1155]

He's trollin!!! :tongue:

Yes, the glowshift adapter has a port for an oil pressure gauge as well as oil feed, etc.

[sleey0]

Was in my amazon cart for that long lol.

Told you I have been planning for months.

BUT just cancelled due to user interfence! lol

[sleey0]

Is this the right Meth kit? Bottle MAY fit in the bay somewhere.

How would methanol clean windshields? Get bugs off? Streak-free? lol

[cali yaris]

^ that's what I have in my car, works 100% and fairly simple. Echo has it in his car too, and Morgan used it on her Frankenstein supercharger install.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Is this the right Meth kit? Bottle MAY fit in the bay somewhere.

How would methanol clean windshields? Get bugs off? Streak-free? lol

I remember reading somewhere that typical wiper fluid has anywhere from a 30-60% methanol mix. However, wiper fluid usually has cleaning agents that, well, clean lol. You don't want that in your methanol mix though.

I feel like it wouldn't be too hard to find a spot for the tank. If you can't fit it in the engine bay, there should be enough room behind the passenger glove compartment.

[cali yaris]

if you are using water/meth, it's gotta be distilled water too

[sleey0]

Thanks for the tips fellas!

[xbgod]

Use VP M1 Methanol with distilled water.

5 gallons of M1 Meth makes 10 gallons. Always mix 50/50

XBG

[sleey0]

Thanks, Aras.

Just looking for a Tach now.

Any1 with suggestions?

[Nexus1155]

Now im getting confused, i thought you already ordered them?

[Yoda]

am i still the only person thats sees whats going on:iono: Come on i know deep down some of you know it too.:evil: Attack me if ya want but you know...:flame:

[sleey0]

I had.that order cancelled after speaking with garm.

Id rather support a great sponsor like MI.

So if anyone has any reasonably-priced gauge recommendations let me know!

I didnt know garm sold gauges.

And wtf r u talking about yoda?

Please either help out or dont comment. Not to be rude but i want to try and keep this thread clean.

Thanks!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

am i still the only person thats sees whats going on:iono: Come on i know deep down some of you know it too.:evil: Attack me if ya want but you know...:flame:

I seriously hope not, but it's at the back of my mind too.

Sleey0, just use sunpro gauges. A gauge is a gauge is a gauge. Unless it's a $250 boost gauge with a turbo timer and controller, but you get my point. Sunpro gauges are dirt cheap. They don't look bad either if you want white face gauges.

I got a water temp, boost, voltmeter, and oil pressure gauge for $50 shipped lol.

[sleey0]

No, a gauge is not JUST a guage.

If you buy crap (Sunpro isn't too bad but I will spend extra on my gauges) and the readings are wrong then bye-bye engine. The gauges are what you trust to be right.

Would you use Gloshift gauges? Heck, fracking, no!

I cannot really believe you said that lol.

I hope xbg doesn't jump on you for that one!

[sleey0]

Ok. Pistons.

Here are the CP pistons for the 1NZFE http://www.atomicspeedware.com/1NZFECP.aspx

What bore size am I looking for? There are 2 models - 75mm and 75.5mm. Is the 75mm standard? What are the advantages to oversized pistons?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

No, a gauge is not JUST a guage.

If you buy crap (Sunpro isn't too bad but I will spend extra on my gauges) and the readings are wrong then bye-bye engine. The gauges are what you trust to be right.

Would you use Gloshift gauges? Heck, fracking, no!

I cannot really believe you said that lol.

I hope xbg doesn't jump on you for that one!

What :iono:

They work for me :biggrin:

I thought the whole working part was common sense lol. If I buy an oil pressure gauge, hook it up, and see 400 psi on a gauge that only reads up to 100 psi, then clearly I need a better gauge.

[cali yaris]

oversized piston = more displacement = more power.

But it also means the block has to be bored and possibly sleeved. WAY more money than stock sized pistons.

A gauge is a gauge is a gauge.

That is just so incorrect; I'm not even going to start on it.
Put a Glowshift gauge next to an Autometer gauge, for example.

My oil pressure gauge saved my tC's life when the oil cooler popped a hose. I will never cheap out on gauges.

[Nexus1155]

If you buy crap (Sunpro isn't too bad but I will spend extra on my gauges) and the readings are wrong then bye-bye engine. The gauges are what you trust to be right.

You're starting to sound like XBGod, not a bad thing IMO, but sometimes the best of the best is overated. You don't always need the cream of the crop.

If thats what you are going for get some DEFI gauges.

A Mechanical gauge is a mechanical gauge. They all operate the same way. Personally I am a fan of VDO. I have used their boost gauges many of times.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

You're starting to sound like XBGod, not a bad thing IMO, but sometimes the best of the best is overated. You don't always need the cream of the crop.

If thats what you are going for get some DEFI gauges.

A Mechanical gauge is a mechanical gauge. They all operate the same way. Personally I am a fan of VDO. I have used their boost gauges many of times.

Ok, better put than what I said. For example:
Sunpro oil pressure gauge - no more than $20
AEM oil pressure gauge - $200

They do the SAME THING, except one is mechanical and one is electric. An insignificant difference if they both work.

Cut me some slack guys, I had to save money somewhere on this install - it isn't exactly cheap lol.

[Nexus1155]

Honestly I would rather mechanical gauges vs. electrical gauges anyday of the week.

[sleey0]

oversized piston = more displacement = more power.


Thank you, Garm.

You're starting to sound like XBGod, not a bad thing IMO, but sometimes the best of the best is overated. You don't always need the cream of the crop.

If thats what you are going for get some DEFI gauges.

A Mechanical gauge is a mechanical gauge. They all operate the same way. Personally I am a fan of VDO. I have used their boost gauges many of times.

No, xbg has much more money than me. Autometer gauges, not the high end ones, are reasonably priced. So Sunpro - $30, Autometer - $60 = worth it, IMO.

[sleey0]

Ok. Boodt/vac and oil pressure tachs figured out.

Any suggestions on a Tach??

[cali yaris]

focus, no one is criticizing you for your build, but I will disagree that "a gauge is a gauge".

Regarding mechanical gauges, I'm not running fuel or oil into my cabin to make a gauge work, so I will stick with my sensors and electric gauges.

[sleey0]

So, now that garrm let me in on that mechanical guage secret, I might go ALL-OUT and go PLX.

Will update soon.

By the time I buy all electrical guages I can get a nice PLX system.

Any1 familiar with PLX and ther sensor module hookuo?

[sleey0]

That is why we replace the rods and pistons if you are serious about power and your project.

Good aftermarket pistons/rods can with stand much more stress.

[sleey0]

I know as I am not a big fan on meth.

I'd rather pony up for CP pistons and Crower rods:)

[Focus_Sh1ft]

focus, no one is criticizing you for your build, but I will disagree that "a gauge is a gauge".

Yeah I'm not offended or anything. We're all welcome to our opinions, I'm mature enough to deal with people disagreeing with me lol.

IMO a meth kit on our engine with stock rods & pistons is not nessesary. It will add more power & put stress on the stock rods & pistons that they cannot handle.

This was a pretty big fear of mine, and one of the reasons why I didn't immediately spring for meth injection. That's just pure speculation at this point though, isn't it?

I could have sworn Morgan or someone ran an SC with meth injection... Can't find info on that now. Anyone know how that went?

[sleey0]

Yeah, but do we KNOW what it does to out engines in terms of damage?

Might be something there.

Besides, pistons/rods is the way to go if you are worried about blowing an engine.

[pimp my yaris]

Has anyone poped a stock motor yet???? If so, what kind of boost/horsepower were U making???? I plan on buying a junk yard motor next year and packing it with better internals, but I'm just curious how far the stock motor can be taken. Any one Bueller, Bueller?

[sleey0]

Not too.far.

Somehow garm got 378hp.

Wicked if u ask me lol.

[cali yaris]

I could have sworn Morgan or someone ran an SC with meth injection... Can't find info on that now. Anyone know how that went?

She did, and it cured detonation problems. Meth injection can be used for more mild purposes, guys, not just big power.

[cali yaris]

Garm drove around for 8 months @ 180hp. Thats 90 more whp than stock. IMO thats about as high as you want to go.

Lost just a bit of compression in one cylinder over that time, too. Of course, that was only roughly tuned, so I can't point at a single exact cause.

to answer pimp's question. I don't know anyone who has blown up a 1.5L motor -- although I think Tamago threw a rod, as I recall.

[sleey0]

Ok.

T c injectors or 1zz and why?

[PETERPOOP]

^ that's what I have in my car, works 100% and fairly simple. Echo has it in his car too, and Morgan used it on her Frankenstein supercharger install.




I could have sworn Morgan or someone ran an SC with meth injection... Can't find info on that now. Anyone know how that went?



She did, and it cured detonation problems. Meth injection can be used for more mild purposes, guys, not just big power.

Easily forgotten... lol

I run meth with a S/C, and I am the only S/C'd yaris that is re-tuned with meth ( let alone re-tuned). I'm running straight meth, no 50/50 mix.

[xbgod]

I've blown one of these motors:laugh:

Was using the Blitz S/C and Nitrous. Forgot to purge the nitrous bottle pressure down before launch and BOOMMMMMM!

Bottle pressure was at 1600 from sitting in the heat needed to be at 1000, but that my own fault. snaped 3 rods and turned the piston 90 deg. in the block. I have the rods and pistons at home as a reminder of what not to do.

You my friend need to just start your build. For someone on a budget your looking at parts that go way beyond your means.

As far as PLX goes I use their AFR gauge it's deadly accurate.

As far as meth goes great way to keep you from detonating and run smoother. You can get an octane rating up to 101 with meth and 93 pump gas. Thats what I've been using. Best bang for the buck. I've switched to a race fuel for this new build but I don't drive this as a DD.

My ride with all that high end fancy shit has put me in the 60,000 price range on my build. But I;ve had the money to play with.

XBG

[cali yaris]

You can get an octane rating up to 101 with meth and 93 pump gas. Thats what I've been using.

I think more. I can run up to 30+ psi with 50/50 water meth. You can't be saying I'm doing that with equivalent 101 octane.

[cali yaris]

T c injectors or 1zz and why?

I don't think you've said definitively how much boost you are going to run. You may not know yet. Boost level will determine fuel needs which will determine injector choice, need for a pump and possibly return line, etc.

It depends!

[sleey0]

You guys are going to start loosing teeth and get "meth-mouth" with all this "pure" meth talk.:(

lol HAD to do it...

Anyway, does anyone here have anything to say about CP pistons? Good/reliable? Not so good? Good but overpriced>

TIA

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Easily forgotten... lol

I run meth with a S/C, and I am the only S/C'd yaris that is re-tuned with meth ( let alone re-tuned). I'm running straight meth, no 50/50 mix.
Used for power or to stave off detonation? Gimme numbers pleeeeease :biggrin:

How long have you been running the SC and meth?

[sleey0]

Has anyone poped a stock motor yet???? If so, what kind of boost/horsepower were U making???? I plan on buying a junk yard motor next year and packing it with better internals, but I'm just curious how far the stock motor can be taken. Any one Bueller, Bueller?

Found a 40k mile used engine for $350.

Says it has been tested and runs.

That's whats nice about the 1NZFE - cheap crate or used motors FTW!!

[cali yaris]

I have used CP pistons in all three of my turbo project cars. No complaints, they hold up really well. Been running my tC at 400+ whp as a daily driver for well over two years on those pistons.

[sleey0]

Thanks garm.

I know.arias.will custom make.them but id.rather just buy everything together lol.

[xbgod]

You still need to find the info on my dome...........

The even bigger secret will be in my head work, the brains of my motor.

Not to mention figure out how to use 70mm T/B with a custom one off sheet metal intake.

Lots of tricks still up my sleve can't givem all away.

XBG

[cali yaris]

^ LOL.

Celica GT-S is 70mm, easy to source and works great in my car. :biggrin:

[sleey0]

Ok so 2 guages have been ordered (below). Waiting on garm for FIC and UEGO and BOV (Greddy, maybe?).

Which BOV makes the best sound? lol I WANT DARTH VADER HOOPER SOUND!!!!!

Auto Meter AM-7153 C2 Series 2-1/16" Oil Pressure 0-100 PSI
Auto Meter AM-7159 C2 Series 2-1/16" Boost-Vac 30 IN HG/30 PSI

The white face UEGO should match nicely with the C2 auto meters:D

[sleey0]

Can anyone post pics of where they put there tachs? not in the a pillar but mounted on steering column or dash?

THANKS!

[xbgod]

Thats good info Garm....But it's not a Edlebrock Victor-x Racing series 70mm T/B on a sheet metal intake with direct port nitrous.:headbang:



XBG

[sleey0]

Any1 use RFL BOV's?

I heard they are Real Fucking Loud lol:D

[xbgod]

The C2's are nice, thats whats in my car. And I just got the new digital C2 Wideband AFR gauge from my buddy over at Autometer, so my PLX one is coming out for asthetic purposes. You will like the C2's Full sweep electric the only way to go.

XBG

[xbgod]

Bling...............

[cali yaris]

You'll have to get the Autometer rheostat kit (or similar from somewhere else) to go with those C2's -- they are WAY too bright at night.

[sleey0]

You'll have to get the Autometer rheostat kit (or similar from somewhere else) to go with those C2's -- they are WAY too bright at night.

What do you mean? The kit turns down the brightness?

[sleey0]

http://www.zageturbo.com/pro/proshow.asp?y42j0cl=138

Doesn't look too bad. If you notice there are 10 bolts for the oil pan hahahaha (inside joke)

Love ya and u know who I am talking about:D

Still don't know why the IC inlet and outlet are not even. Any guesses?

[cali yaris]

What do you mean? The kit turns down the brightness?

Yes.

[sleey0]

So, I got the C2 boost gauge. Garm introduced me to controllers.

Is it ok to use the c2 and mechanical controller like Hallman?

Or would it be best to get the AEM digital gauge controller? If I go with the Tru-Boost it will be the same money wise as C2 and Hallman.

Whaddya think? I think that hallman looks kick ass and it is pretty inexpensive:D

[sleey0]

Oh and just talked with my buddy doing the install. First he laughed at my engine and said him and a few buddies coiuld lift it out.

Anyway, He says it will take about 1 hour to get the engine out and about 2-3 hours to install pistons/rods and anothe hour to put it back

BUT we will most likely fire it up first to make sure the pistons and rods are ok an there are no leaks anywhere etc.

Then the Zage. He took a look at pics and said maybe a full day, most liekly less. He said the kit looks like good quality. So +1 for Zage!

Wiring the AEM will be the most challenging part, believe it or not. lol Although I have good documentation from you guys here and MI that already did it.

Then we shall do gauges and take it for a spin. If it is driveable than to the dyno it goes (the dyno is like 45min away). If not than the dude has a trailer to bring it there.

A week/week and a half sound about right.

Also he has access to a press so if you guys want AC lines moved professionally maybe he can make some extra off my copy.

Basically getting rid of current AC lines and making new ones that angle and fit without being near heated components.

~Wes

[Nexus1155]

Where do you order from that lets you keep cancelling!

Remember, you are going to lose most fluids when doing an engine pull. You really should not have to pull the engine just to do a turbo kit, but if you do, remember to stock up on oil coolant power steering fluid and brake fluid.

You also might not want to pull engine depending on wall clearance, might make it harder to get back in.

[sleey0]

Well, oif course I aint't pulling that small bastard to just pu the kit on.

I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.

[Nexus1155]

Still think it would be easier just to remove the head alone and not risk things/fluids too. Also make sure you get some head studs. You cannot reuse stock head studs, most of them now a days are all stretch bolts and thats a no no on reuseability. Same with flywheel bolts.

[sleey0]

Where can I get 1NZFE head studs?

[Nexus1155]

Garm got them custom, but Toyota has them for sure i bet at like $5 per stud. Also another way to lower your compression to push more boost is to get a thicker head gasket. I don't know how much your pistons will lower them, but the headgasket is good for another .5 of a drop

[Morgan]

Used for power or to stave off detonation? Gimme numbers pleeeeease :biggrin:

How long have you been running the SC and meth?

She did, and it cured detonation problems. Meth injection can be used for more mild purposes, guys, not just big power.

I had a Blitz supercharger and the AEM progressive water/meth set up (the one you have pictured). Worked nicely. I mounted the tank to the back of the "40" seat (of the 60/40 rear bench) in the hatch. The regular washer take is 1.1 qts and you'll burn through that quickly enough. Run the lines through the car, they aren't under pressure until after they pass through the pump.

Since I live in Florida and I installed the kit in May of last year, it was hot, well over 95+ most summer days and the methanol kit was to help with pre-detonation. Yes, you can run 100% methanol or yes, you can run 100% water. I never noticed a huge difference, usually I ran tap water with about 30% by volume of methanol.

If you choose to run straight methanol, it can be very expensive for not a lot of return in power - just save yourself the money, the real power is not found (for this car) in adding water/methanol injection. But it is a lot safer to run in hot weather ESPECIALLY since I didn't have an intercooler.

Cooler intake temperatures are never a bad thing.

Good luck, read my archaic posts if you feel like you'd like to waste 20 mins on my ramblings.... or just PM me :smile:

ps I knew from the get go that I was going to have water/meth, so I installed it simultaneously with the supercharger... it is a very nice kit, well worth the $400 - just make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture

[PETERPOOP]

If you choose to run straight methanol, it can be very expensive for not a lot of return in power - just save yourself the money, the real power is not found (for this car) in adding water/methanol injection. But it is a lot safer to run in hot weather ESPECIALLY since I didn't have an intercooler.


Not true. The meth actually lasts quite awhile. Depends on how you drive of course. Since I am maxing out at about 8-9lbs of boost, i have my meth kick in at 2lbs of boost. I also buy HEET to use as my meth, and it's only a couple bucks a bottle at WAL-MART. Takes about maybe 8-9 bottles to fill the entire meth kit? A full tank of meth can last me about a month with my driving. However, I don't street race and go into boost every chance I get....

ps: I wouldn't have even gotten the meth kit if i wasn't going to tune with it.

http://media.ruralking.com/image.php?sku=090180613&nsize=300

make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture

Not true. I am running 99.9999% meth and my stock hose lines haven't broke....

[cali yaris]

make sure you get refrigerator tubing for the lines from the tank to pump and pump to injector, the ones in the kit are very thin and will break if you run anything higher than a 30% mixture

I run 50/50, and I will also disagree with this.

Where exactly did the 30% come from?

[cali yaris]

He says it will take about 1 hour to get the engine out and about 2-3 hours to install pistons/rods and anothe hour to put it back

That would be the fastest swap I've ever seen. I will keep my healthy skepticism on this detail.

[cali yaris]

I am getting CP 75mm pistons and Crower rods.

What compression? If not stock, I'm guessing you'll be in trouble with the ECU and a piggyback.

[xbgod]

Your engine builder is full of shit, will take a few hours to pull the motor correctly. And if your gonna do some piston changes that change compression and or CC you may have some trouble with that piggy back ECU.

Your engine builder is working in dream land and your in for a wake-up call on this whole thing.

My self and Garm got more time under the hood of these cars than your engine builder probably has in his whole career.

Your whole situation is unrealistic and there is a world of issues headed your way.

A few hours to put new pistons and rods in. :laugh:

Not if you have file fit rings and you want to check everything. Not to mention you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear.

Also there is no ARP head stud kit for this car. You have to go custom like me and Garm. And untill you go big like him and I you don't even warrent them.

Good Luck with this disaster

XBG

[advocate]

power steering fluid

don't we have electronic power steering?

[cali yaris]

you need to knoch the block for the Crower rods to clear.

The Pauter rods were the same for me.

[Nexus1155]

don't we have electronic power steering?

I dunno, never looked into it. Just saying what you'd need for general motor pulls

[cali yaris]

Yaris = Electronic power assisted steering

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Kinda surprised no one has said this yet but uh...

How about you just put the turbo in and deal with pistons/rods/meth/everything else later. It's like you're trying to do brain surgery, file your taxes, build a time machine, and create a dog/cat fusion all at once. What's the rush?

[advocate]

I'm guessing he doesn't want to disassemble the turbo once it's on in order to get the new pistons in and sleeve the block if he wants?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Gonna be pretty hard to trouble shoot...

But that's probably exactly what the installers want to have happen. :rolleyes:

[xbgod]

Brother I hope you do get your build the way you want. Your just taking to many avenues of approach for 7psi. Hell those rods are safe on 10psi. Your daily driver is no longer going to be that but you'll figure that out.

Almost forgot, I don't need you to stand-up for me. People just get pissed because I beat them to the next level, it's human nature. And I know where I stand in-line, in this food chain of the 1NZ-FE.

Belive me, when people do get the chance to see me at a show..I never get a hatter at me...My arms are the size of some peoples thighs and my neck gets lost in my traps. Just like I build powerful motors I treat my body the same.

I hope your on the war path to build this now....that's my goal...piss you off bad enough you might just get there...Reverse psycho-therapy is great.

Now build something

XBG

[sleey0]

And some new info gained by a trusted member.

Pistons and rods may be a project down the road now depending on my funds standpoint here in the next month or two,

So no more bashing/talking/whatever about the rods/pistons and engine pull plz.

[sleey0]

Back to my project.

Should I get the 1ZZ injectors? Or go bigger, like tC?

Performace/sftermarket ones?

Any suggestions......Thanks

[Morgan]

Not true. The meth actually lasts quite awhile. Depends on how you drive of course. Since I am maxing out at about 8-9lbs of boost, i have my meth kick in at 2lbs of boost. I also buy HEET to use as my meth, and it's only a couple bucks a bottle at WAL-MART. Takes about maybe 8-9 bottles to fill the entire meth kit? A full tank of meth can last me about a month with my driving. However, I don't street race and go into boost every chance I get....

ps: I wouldn't have even gotten the meth kit if i wasn't going to tune with it.

http://media.ruralking.com/image.php?sku=090180613&nsize=300



Not true. I am running 99.9999% meth and my stock hose lines haven't broke....

I was going through the 1 gallon tank (the one pictured) every couple of days or roughly 100 miles. I started buying methanol in bulk from a local auto shop. If you factor in the $40 methanol storage 5 gal tank and then $5 per gallon, it wasn't "very" expensive, so I guess I take back my intensifier.

Oh yes and HEET is a great substitute if you can not find methanol in bulk quantities, also most washer fluids will list methanol content if you can do some calculation on what temperatures they work in. Roughly a -20* solution is 25-30% methanol, but living in a state where it rarely freezes.... the closest I ever found local to me was +20* washer mix
I run 50/50, and I will also disagree with this.


Where exactly did the 30% come from?
As to the lines breaking, I had to keep extra tubing in the car and a pair of scissors on me at all times... along with a hex head 6mm and a 14mm wrench. I never had a problem with any of the lines in the car, only the one from the pump outlet to the injector. After playing with where the line was routed and eliminating that as a possible cause for leaks, I assumed it was the tubing and after switching to a higher thickness tubing I never had any issues.

My 30% by volume (not weight) came from my own diagnostics. I'm not saying I'm a "genius" by any means but it ran quicker from 25 to 75 mph in 5th gear when the mix was between 2/3 to 3/4 water to 1/3 - 1/4 methanol. Of course if you live anywhere outside of my neighborhood (humidity, elevation... blah blah variables), this may not be helpful to you. However, I was sharing what worked for me... sorry for the intrusion....

[PETERPOOP]

I would have went the windshield wiper fluid route for the meth, but because I am in hawaii, they don't sell the windshield washer fluid that could work.

[sleey0]

Ok. Here we can talk about aftermarket pistons and rods and how our learning ECU will handle the lower C:R.

I am making some calls today an will report back what I find.

FEEL FREE TO DISCUSS.....

<And, thank you Garm and Aras>

[sleey0]

...... reserverd

[sleey0]

Just wondering if the ECU woulod re-learn the C:R if it was minimally changed , say like 10:1 iinstead of 10.5:1.

All I want to do is beef up my internals a bit to hit 12psi to 1bar reliably,

I called AEM, CP, and ARIA but all are closed on weekends and will have to wait for answers lol.

I should just yank my cars ECU and send it to CTScott to play with. He could get it in constant open-loop then none of this matters lol.

Thanks for listening,
Wes

[xbgod]

I see this threads been Hi-jacked.....it's missing posts now too.

Instead of worring about all this other nonsense, you could just play it safe, since this is your DAILY DRIVER and put a reliable kit on have some fun and then play with the big dogs when you can afford to not have it be a daily driver.

All your threads are running wild with no end results. Look no one cares anymore. you are the only one responding to your own threads.

I give up, I quite, I resigne.....I'm throwing in the towel.....I'm ringing the bell.


XBG

[sleey0]

Thanks.for.that i guess.

I just want learn and.help the community.

Just because i havent.started.yet doesn't mean i cant gain some knowledge.

I.am.doing.like u told me to.

Aras, one minuteu tell me.to call arias and.aem and now you.are.telling me my threads are.worthless.

I.dont.get u sometimes bro.

Why be nice.too me in emails and.then put me down in my own hreads?

Instead, share your knowledge here and help.

Confusing.as.sbit.

Help me or.dont. i thought you were helping and.then.tbis?

You have a split personality bro....

[Parmas]

Just wondering if the ECU woulod re-learn the C:R if it was minimally changed , say like 10:1 iinstead of 10.5:1.

All I want to do is beef up my internals a bit to hit 12psi to 1bar reliably,

I called AEM, CP, and ARIA but all are closed on weekends and will have to wait for answers lol.

I should just yank my cars ECU and send it to CTScott to play with. He could get it in constant open-loop then none of this matters lol.

Thanks for listening,
Wes

I think the main issue related with the stock ecu isn't the pistons or rods but the turbo setup itself.

Let me explain:

- Pistons with lower compression mean that they differ in height (by few mm) versus others with more compression. Now if you change the pistons to a lower compression, you might be aware that the less compression means a bigger combustion chamber since the piston is effectively going up the same height. The bigger the chamber, the more the engine needs air and fuel to make a good bang.

-If you remain with the stock ecu, the ecu doesn't know that the engine needs more air and fuel to make a good mixture in the chamber which will result in startup, knocking and engine dying issues since the ecu is giving the same amount of fuel as if you are still at 10.5:1.

-Regarding the turbo setup, I am one of the guys that don't vote to remain with stock ecu because of the much issues with turbo systems. I don't mean it can't be done but will probably cost you more money and patience to have good results.

As xbg said you should check other threads and you will surely find your answers.

[sleey0]

I think the main issue related with the stock ecu isn't the pistons or rods but the turbo setup itself.

Let me explain:

- Pistons with lower compression mean that they differ in height (by few mm) versus others with more compression. Now if you change the pistons to a lower compression, you might be aware that the less compression means a bigger combustion chamber since the piston is effectively going up the same height. The bigger the chamber, the more the engine needs air and fuel to make a good bang.

-If you remain with the stock ecu, the ecu doesn't know that the engine needs more air and fuel to make a good mixture in the chamber which will result in startup, knocking and engine dying issues since the ecu is giving the same amount of fuel as if you are still at 10.5:1.

-Regarding the turbo setup, I am one of the guys that don't vote to remain with stock ecu because of the much issues with turbo systems. I don't mean it can't be done but will probably cost you more money and patience to have good results.

As xbg said you should check other threads and you will surely find your answers.

Thanks for the info!!! Really good stuff.

And XBG, the learning-ECU issue when changing pistons and lowering C:R was from Garm.

MODS if XBGod is right, and all pieces of info about rods, pistons, the ecu, and ways around it (that are being tried), and C:R are already in another thread.

THEN PLEASE CLOSE OR MERGE!!!!

Thanks.

[sleey0]

I think the main issue related with the stock ecu isn't the pistons or rods but the turbo setup itself.

Let me explain:

- Pistons with lower compression mean that they differ in height (by few mm) versus others with more compression. Now if you change the pistons to a lower compression, you might be aware that the less compression means a bigger combustion chamber since the piston is effectively going up the same height. The bigger the chamber, the more the engine needs air and fuel to make a good bang.

-If you remain with the stock ecu, the ecu doesn't know that the engine needs more air and fuel to make a good mixture in the chamber which will result in startup, knocking and engine dying issues since the ecu is giving the same amount of fuel as if you are still at 10.5:1.

-Regarding the turbo setup, I am one of the guys that don't vote to remain with stock ecu because of the much issues with turbo systems. I don't mean it can't be done but will probably cost you more money and patience to have good results.

As xbg said you should check other threads and you will surely find your answers.

Garm is the 1 that told me changing the ratio will mess up the stock ecu n then you would need stand alone.

If we could lower the ratio and use a piggy back that would work perfect for my situation.

But no 1 has figured out the closed loop situation. C t scott said he was gonna look at it, but IDK.

[sleey0]

PLEASE for now-foward if you don't have anything to contribute NICELY then just move along.

I don't need this. This will be my fist Boosted project and I want help and opnion, NOT mockery and foolishness.

Why is it only my thread that gets all trashed? I am basically trying to do what Focus_Shift is doing just MAYBE a little different.

Is there a sleey0 hate club around here? What did I ever do bu show my excitement and ask a lot of questions?

If that is all I am guilty of then these boards shouldn't exist.

Yes, I am a month or two away from getting everything I need to proceed, but that doesn't mean we can't share info NICELY and in an APPROPRIATE manner.


Thanks for those that are helping me, BTW.

Wes

[xbgod]

Well, it's good to see all of your stuff on one thread now. At least now when your asking a question we know it's souly for your build. No more crazy other threads to keep going back and fourth too. I think you will find this a much easier way to have all your questions answered.

The only reason you were getting so much crap is because it was all over the place and alot of this stuff was answered in other peoples turbo projects. At least now it's under control and should move forward.

Talk at you guys next week.

XBG

[Parmas]

Why is it only my thread that gets all trashed? I am basically trying to do what Focus_Shift is doing just MAYBE a little different.


Wes

Dear Wes I know this project isn't an easy one and will probably cost you a lot of hassle so I understand that you are nervous about this but you need to focus on what you read. During the time doing my turbo project, 2years ago btw, I wrote many good information related to my build in order not to mislead anything.

During the time I was making mine, the only help I could find was Garm since he was the only one I knew about doing the custom turbo setup.
Saying this, if you re-read the quote here you will understand that many of your answers are in other threads since you are not alone here.

In the case you have a different question or an update on your build than you post here.

Regards

[sleey0]

Ok got it.

I will search my ass off!

The only problem is I have only 1 thread to really help me because of the same xage kit I will use focu_shift.

I will read your thread again but wasn't yours custom built?

Thanks, Parmas!

[sleey0]

I need to know QUICKLY if the tC injectors (2az) will work with the 1NZ.

I came across a set for $100 and want to jump on it but don't know if they will work with the 1NZ.

[sleey0]

And I have come up with nothing yet.

Trust me I posted that out of frustration because nothing is coming up. Even at scionlife.

[sleey0]

Talked to Elmer @ Arias today. He isn't sure if the piggyback solution will work with a 9.5:1 CR. He did say that a 10:1 might not have any issues but not 100% certain.

He tried to help but his accent was very hard to understand, He referred me to TOYSport in Cali and they were less helpful.

The search for info continues!!!!

I think I will wait and see if focus or ct can figure out the closed loop workaround as I have time before I start my build.

And I might hook up with Focus when I am ready for my build. w00t!!!! Cool guy that Focus_Shift!! :D

[cali yaris]

Talked to Elmer @ Arias today. He isn't sure if the piggyback solution will work with a 9.5:1 CR. He did say that a 10:1 might not have any issues but not 100% certain.

He tried to help but his accent was very hard to understand, He referred me to TOYSport in Cali and they were less helpful.

The search for info continues!!!!

That IS the info. LOL

[sleey0]

I knowed u said. it wouldn't work but what about a 10 to 1 compression ratio?

I am just going to wait it out and see what ctscott comes up with the closed/open loop situation.

[sleey0]

And elmer from areas pistons wasn't sure if the piggy back woul work so we do not have current confirmation yet about needing a stand alone. It's not that I don't believe you garm its just that i am double checking all my sources.

The more we know the better off the community will be, right?

Still need to speak with aem and crower.

[sleey0]

Here I am doing my laundry in a laundromat in looking in the paper and I find an aftermarket parts place that has a dynojet antunes can't you believe that shit!

Not 5 miles away from where I live!

Stopping by there today will let you guys know what I find out when I get back.

w00t!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[sleey0]

Well that didn't go so good. The guy won't touch it because it he knows nothing of import cars. However he will wire up the aem and also dyno tune it for me so that's a plus.

Problem is he shop works mostly with trucks and turbo diesels.

So aem tuner.w.dyno found. Now I just need a turbo kit lol!

Going to check out another place that does machine work and engine rebuilds in olean, NY. Heard they are pretty good.

Cliff might be backing out of this project due to him moving, but he isn't sure yet.

Hell, if all else fails Focus_Shift HERE I COME!!!! lol

To be continued........

[Parmas]

Hey man you need to stop for a moment and think!

Look at your post timings!

2 27pm

2 59pm

4 25pm

6 33pm

7 57pm

8 00pm

8 44pm

10 09pm

Or you want a post record or you want us to loose track of your thoughts.


All these posts after the other makes the thread confusing. I can give you a suggestion, I post one or two a day in order to get all the good stuff together. The more organised thread, the more the ppl can give you a nice clean answer. Just my 2cent!

I didn't mean to say that you have to stay on my project but on the one of Focus_shift.

[sleey0]

I am just updating as I get my info.

I will take your advice and just update maybe at night.

I don't have a great memory so I will need to start writing things down to do the 1 post per day deal lol/

Thx, parmas for not being an ass about it.

Trust me, Some1 else would have slammed me for posting too many posts.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Bro, I'll install the FIC and zage kit for soooo much cheaper lol. I may not be ASE certified or w/e, but I did it once and it worked... :biggrin:

[sleey0]

Just no jb weld please:)

(sorry, I HAD to do it! lol)

Well, do you have a dyno and tuner over there?

The rates here are dirt cheap. $50/hjr labor costs for installs and $65 for tuning, IIRC

Whatever.

What are you doing, say, the beginning of January? PLEASE TELL ME YOU HAVE A HEATED GARAGE!!

[sleey0]

Oh and I am most likely going to not update this thread that much.

Check out my build thread at MI.

[Parmas]

Thx, parmas for not being an ass about it.

Trust me, Some1 else would have slammed me for posting too many posts.


Man if I was that kind of guy I would be in a fight-club-forum not in yarisworld :biggrin:.

Cheers mate :drinking:

[sleey0]

Where you @ parmas? what is Location: ML ?

gonna try and get a NW/E US group meet sometime in the next few months....

[Parmas]

I am european my friend... no luck for me!

[sleey0]

Just got a phone call and CityID said Tampa, FL. The only ppl I know in Tampa are my Aut and Uncle.

Well, fellas. ARAS IS FINALLLY BACK HOME IN THE GOOD OL USofA!!!!

HE is VERY, no, ETREMELY busy so son't bombard him with questions just yet,

He said give him about 10 days MINIMUM.

Just glad he is safe and sound.

[xbgod]

Back in town now.

I will have a various amount of parts up for sale. some new some used. I post them in the for sale section with pics.

everything from a Greddy turbo kit to an OBX T/B spacer. Will be about 10 days like WES said. So I'll be chatting at all of soon.


Thanks guys Aras

[xbgod]

Just so you all know Sleey0, totaled his car. He is no longer boosting his ride. I just spoke to him, he is doing ok but obviously down in the dumps. Not sure what he is going to do with what he started but Keep an eye out for him.

XBG

[Bluevitz-rs]

Wow, only 4 months. What happened?

[xbgod]

didn't get all the details he was still in the hospital. I'm sure he will post when the time is right.

XBG

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Wow... That's pretty nuts.

Best of wishes to him. I hope he gets better soon. I'm pretty bummed for him tbh, was looking forward to watching his build.