Automatic fluid exchange

[Solid T D]

I've been going through all the forum notes, and tried the YW service manual, but for the life of me, I simply cannot find the info I'm looking for. :help: :iono:
I started an Auto Systems and Auto Technician class at a local occupational center:drool:. I've been noticing that my tranny is taking a bit longer to switch gears than it used to. I understand this is normal, but, I wanted to change the tranny oil, just as a precaution, as I am fairly rough on my Yaris.

I know that this Yaris uses ATF-WS(Toyota only :bs:). My question is how much ATF do I need to buy, and do I need special tools/machines to do this?

When I asked, at the parts desk, the gentleman said the tranny needs to be pressurized when changing the fluids. So, I took it that changing the fluids needs a special machine.

:respekt: Please hit me with your collective knowledge and wisdom oh wise ones! :bow:

[Klink10]

Find the service manual link on this site (might be a sticky in the DIY section) and read to determine if you want to tackle yourself or leave it to a dealer. I know for sure that Amsoil now makes a WS equiv. trans fluid for Japanese cars. Because the dealers handle a large volume they do have a machine that takes out and refills most all the fluids our vehicles require.

According to the manual 3.1 qts. on a service refill after pan is dropped and filter/strainer removed. The manual indicates that even after the initial pull bolt and drain there is still some fluid remaining in the strainer/filter.

The machine would remove the old and follow with new under pressure to eliminate a whole lot of air being introduced is my guess.

[Brian]

100,000 Maintenance Interval — Inspection only; ATF-WS does NOT require any
flushing or changing during the life of the vehicle.

This is in a TSB

[auxmike]

There's a sticker right on the A/T dipstick stating you don't need to change it...:iono:

[Solid T D]

There's a sticker right on the A/T dipstick stating you don't need to change it...:iono:

I understand that, and that's not the point of these questions.
I'm asking these questions for the sole knowledge of knowing what needs to be done if I were, say, to be a mechanic.
The only other way of knowing the questions I'm asking would be to fork up 600 usd + taxes for the "mechanic's" service manuals(which are 4 volumes at $150ea for the asian market and since I don't know which one has the info I'm looking for I would have to buy all 4:cry:).

[Solid T D]

Oh, I should mention this. If I get the info I need, I'm going to make a sweet DIY.
We have the technology. We will rebuild it. (SCROC ftw)

[R2D2]

In my opinion it is better not to introduce a whole slug of new fluid all at once, especially into a higher mileage unit. Not a fan of flush machines at all. I'd rather do drain and fills more often especially when I'm fortunate enough to have a drain plug.

There is no right or wrong with service for these units-only differing opinions. Sure you're not supposed to have to service them but it's your car. If I was going to trade in a few years I'd do nothing, but I plan on keeping mine for life. There is already a very noticeable difference in shift quality since it was new.

I will almost guarantee you that the bean counters and marketing types were way more excited about these trans being service free than the engineers were. They will be well out of warranty when they finally fail.

[Solid T D]

I agree, from a marketing stand point, this thing is awesome.

But I don't really care for what the marketing guys believe is right for me.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

[Klink10]

I agree and will do my own more often than recommended along with coolant service.

[severous01]

you can always do a pump n fill

loosen the lines to the cooler, get some sort of drainage going. turn car on and put in neutral. run until it starts sputtering and immediately shut off. there should be some sort of fill plug on the side of trans somewhere. fill until it starts coming out. then start engine and put in neutral again and fill agian until it comes out. that will be about 90% fluid. and if you leave it running and it's not pumping fluid....you'll burn up all the clutches and bands in the trans so you really need to be paying attention.

[Klink10]

you can always do a pump n fill

loosen the lines to the cooler, get some sort of drainage going. turn car on and put in neutral. run until it starts sputtering and immediately shut off. there should be some sort of fill plug on the side of trans somewhere. fill until it starts coming out. then start engine and put in neutral again and fill agian until it comes out. that will be about 90% fluid. and if you leave it running and it's not pumping fluid....you'll burn up all the clutches and bands in the trans so you really need to be paying attention.

What you are describing is I believe the method for a sealed type transmission (No dip stick) vs unsealed (with dipstick) in the Yaris. Unless they have gone to the unsealed which I don't know about. I do know that several of the Toyota trucks and maybe some other manufacturers utilize the unsealed versions in various truck models and there are several DIY's in those forums which describe the method you are talking about. The key to doing a full flush and fill from what I've read is to identify the coorect cooling line, disconnecting and then fill while running the motor allowing the pump to move the old out while getting the new in. Of course all this after the sump has been removed, strainer and whatever replaced, magnets cleaned and replaced, new gasket added and cover put back on. I think during the process careful attention should be paid to the amount of the 3.1 qt. capacity is drained to know about how much is left in the system, and to have an adequate amount on hand to do the job........pretty much what I've gathered and am still doing my homework on the subject.

[R2D2]

I've acquired all the items I need and will be dropping the pan and replacing the filter soon so I'll get some pics and attempt a reasonable DIY.

The Yaris has a dipstick and a drain plug, so we have it good there.

Severous01 I've used the method you describe several times on a variety of vehicles and it does work very well if you're careful and preferably have some help.

[R2D2]

Got it done last night.

I dropped the pan and changed the filter, just a drain and fill. Will repeat drain and fills every 15k from here on out via the drain plug. I won't be doing the filter again for some time. I got a few pics and learned a few things. Man, for a "lifetime fill" trans this is a very maintenance friendly trans!

I will post a DIY or something similar here if one hasn't been done.

[Klink10]

Great.....I have managed to find a DIY in a truck forum on how to do the flush and fill procedure which I will do in the near future.

[YarisSedan]

From what Ive heard about the new world standard atf fluid is your not supose to mix it with old fluid. It must be 100 pecent removed and replaced with brand new which can only be done with a transmission flush machine. Simply dropping the pan will only remove about 3 quarts. What about the torque converter or the radiator and cooler lines? Ive used a flush machine on many toyotas that you would get only 3quarts out draining the pan but the machine will take out 13 quarts. So your simply diluting. Its like doing a oil change but removing only removing a quart of oil and refilling it back up.

[Klink10]

From what Ive heard about the new world standard atf fluid is your not supose to mix it with old fluid. It must be 100 pecent removed and replaced with brand new which can only be done with a transmission flush machine. Simply dropping the pan will only remove about 3 quarts. What about the torque converter or the radiator and cooler lines? Ive used a flush machine on many toyotas that you would get only 3quarts out draining the pan but the machine will take out 13 quarts. So your simply diluting. Its like doing a oil change but removing only removing a quart of oil and refilling it back up.

You are correct. I do plan on dumping pan and changing filter then flush and fill the remainder.

[R2D2]

I removed over half the fluid volume of the transmission by dropping the pan. You get a little less than half just by draining out via the drain plug.

And yes "dilution" is the entire point of the process. By doing so every 15k the fluid will stay very clean. I would take regular drain and fills any day over a flush once every 60 or 100k.

WS is no where near as "special" as Toyota is making it out to be, I can assure you. If it was major players like Redline, Amsoil, and Valvoline wouldn't be touting there fluids as compatible, appropriate replacements. I took the not mixing old and new fluid to mean top up with new fluid don't reuse the old fluid drained out. It really makes no sense why there would be incompatibility between used and new fluid other than the fact it wouldn't make sense to add back in fluid that may have been contaminated.

The engine oil comparison is irrelevant because the pan drain on the Yaris removes more than 20 percent of the fluid volume. Also transmission fluids don't have byproducts of combustion to deal with and operate in a "closed" system so contamination rates are much lower.