PETERPOOP's Turbo Build Thread.

[PETERPOOP]

Decided not to use the Zage oil pan. After seeing how cydgdydgdyeee explained why the Zage oil pan wouldn't work, I've decided to go a different route.

Will this 5/16" hose fitting be big enough for the oil return line? The oil line that comes with the zage kit doesn't look any bigger than a 1/4 to 5/16".

Thanks to garm for showing where to put the hose fitting. ;)

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1584.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1585.jpg

[cali yaris]

5/16" should be fine. Definitely post pics of your return location when you get to it. Where did I post those? can't find 'em now.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Good call on the pan, I'm almost positive he's right.

Were you able to drill the block yourself? I really don't want to have a mechanic do it simply because I need a lift to have enough working space.

Lots and lots of pictures please sir. :biggrin:

[PETERPOOP]

I've decided to go with a 3/8" diameter hose, because the bulk head fitting was already 3/8", just had to change the hose connection. Didn't want to drill a bigger hole in the block (time consuming).

This is what I did to drill the hole:


The tools..

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1582.jpg

Once the car is up on jackstands, you need to jack the axle up. As high as you can, need room to drill the hole.

Stuff rags in oil pan to prevent metal shavings from going in.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1581.jpg

Starter hole...

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1580.jpg

After starter hole, used the step bit to get the right size for fitting.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1583.jpg

The axle was in the way, so this is all the height i could get. I think it's high enough?

This is where the full mark is on the tip stick; about two inches.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1587.jpg

This picture is to the bottom of the fitting; close to 4 inches. Unless I'm on a crazy hill, the oil should drip in.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1588.jpg

I've tee'd off the oil sending unit and have put my oil feed line in place.

More progress will be made during thanksgiving weekend.

[Tamago]

buy a 90 deg fitting and a flare a tube to go to the bottom of the pan. you do NOT want that hot oil hitting anything but oil when it enters the pan... if it comes out into just air, you'll foam your oil and do damage to your engine (much like overfilling will do)

[Focus_Sh1ft]

buy a 90 deg fitting and a flare a tube to go to the bottom of the pan. you do NOT want that hot oil hitting anything but oil when it enters the pan... if it comes out into just air, you'll foam your oil and do damage to your engine (much like overfilling will do)

Ok, so whose right about this? If you have oil hitting oil, then that means your line runs right into the oil, which is going to cause it to back up in the turbocharger. I now know this from experience unfortunately.

But now you're saying oil into air causes foaming? Uh... :iono:

Thanks for the pics btw. :thumbup:

[cali yaris]

Charles has his going into the Zage pan with no issues.

[Shinare]

Wouldn't the return line going into the bottom of the pan just back oil up into the line to the level of the oil in the pan? Any new oil coming down the line would push down a little on the level in the line and thus push up a little on the oil in the pan?

Is there no oil pressure on the return line?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Charles has his going into the Zage pan with no issues.

Hmm.. Is he using thicker than a -8 AN line? Also possible his banjo bolt has a smaller restricter I guess.

cdydjded, your return is setup just like PETERPOOP's at this point, right? No line on the inside of the block running down into the oil?

I look at it this way, if you looked at 1000 turbocharged cars Im sure 99% of them have the oil return above the oil line....

I'm inclined to agree. I can't see how hot oil hitting air would cause foaming. If that were the case, oil dripping down from the cylinder walls would foam, as well as the hot oil sitting in the pan...

[Tamago]

Ok, so whose right about this? If you have oil hitting oil, then that means your line runs right into the oil, which is going to cause it to back up in the turbocharger. I now know this from experience unfortunately.

But now you're saying oil into air causes foaming? Uh... :iono:

Thanks for the pics btw. :thumbup:

huh? you need to go pour soapy water into a pitcher and see what happens, then pour the same water through a hose into the same pitcher..

how would oil back up into the turbo because it terminates under the oil line? that doesn't even make sense..

[Tamago]

huh? you need to go pour soapy water into a pitcher and see what happens, then pour the same water through a hose into the same pitcher..

how would oil back up into the turbo because it terminates under the oil line? that doesn't even make sense..

basic hydraulics will tell you to NEVER terminate any return line above the oil line. its not the oil hitting the air that causes foaming, it's the oil hitting the top of the oil. just like filling a bucket up that has soap in it. if you hold the hose above the water, the turbulence of the water landing on the top of the water will cause the soap to foam. if you put the hose under the water it does not disturb the oil..

[Tamago]

you miss the point. they're saying that the turbo should not sit BELOW THE OIL PAN...

[PETERPOOP]

Thanks for the info. Still not 100% sure which is best. Got to look into it more. But one thing I did decide to do, was to put a 90 coming through the bulk head, aiming down, rather than shooting straight across. After seeing the video (thanks cydgdgdgege) and seeing how strong the oil streams out, I didn't want it shooting onto the crank; and tamago's idea about putting the 90 made a lot of sense to me too. But I'm not too sure yet if I do want to extend it into the oil or not; still researching...

This is what I got so far:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1594.jpg

Like tamago suggested, I could put this fitting on so the oil will return below the oil line.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1599.jpg

This is with the 3/8" fitting on the outside..

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1591.jpg

[Tamago]

looking good sir

[Bluevitz-rs]

So then, what's the point of putting a hole in the block so high? Why not just put it just below the level of the oil in the pan to begin with.

The laws of equalization should apply to any liquid fluid. No matter what the hight of the return line in the oil, the levels will always equalize out. Even if the return was taped underneath the pan. The whole problem with the Zage return was that is was too restrictive running it all the way to the front.

The return line on my old Greddy kit was in the back of the oil pan and I experienced no problems with it at all. But it ran straight out the bottom of the turbo and into the pan. No bends anywhere. (I can post a picture of it later...)

[Focus_Sh1ft]

So then, what's the point of putting a hole in the block so high? Why not just put it just below the level of the oil in the pan to begin with.

The laws of equalization should apply to any liquid fluid. No matter what the hight of the return line in the oil, the levels will always equalize out. Even if the return was taped underneath the pan. The whole problem with the Zage return was that is was too restrictive running it all the way to the front.

The return line on my old Greddy kit was in the back of the oil pan and I experienced no problems with it at all. But it ran straight out the bottom of the turbo and into the pan. No bends anywhere. (I can post a picture of it later...)

I completely agree. I had trouble digesting cdydjded's explanation (especially after Garm confirmed Charles is using the Zage pan without problems) but I'm not ready to accept a problem with the seals (which apparently are more hardy than they seem).

Watching those YouTube videos, I was pretty surprised at the velocity of the return oil. But that also leads me to believe that the orientation of the return line isn't that big of a deal, as long as it doesn't dip up. Oil flowing at that velocity should just push it's way through the line... It's probably worth mentioning that (for me atleast) there is very little oil leaking.

I don't know what to do at this point. I now have all the tools I need to tap the block, but am wondering if there's a better way to go about this. There's wayyy too much conflicting information - both here and online.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Here's a picture of the Greddy pan...

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ/DSC_5804.jpg

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ Thanks for the pic. That design is nearly identical to Zage's... With the exception of the return line routing.

EDIT: I just had an interesting thought. Say there was a pressure buildup at the turbo. Is it possible this could cause an increase in pressure at the feed location (in my case, the oil filter)? I've been noticing slightly higher oil pressures recently (90+, esp. at idle). Could be normal / unrelated though.

[Bluevitz-rs]

depends on RPM. When cold (under 10°C) oil pressure is around 80-90 psi @ 1500RPM and above until it starts to warm up. My car is usually at about 68 psi at cruse (2500ish RPM)

^ if that's any reference to you.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Yeah that sounds about right for me as well.

I ask because I've had this bizarre leak from every filter I've used since I did the turbo install.

The mystery continues...

[Nexus1155]

Hypocrisy, thy name is.... you :evil:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Nexus, good to hear from you again :thumbsup:

I just checked my BOV and there was so little oil. Again, no loss of oil on the dipstick. Apparently some oil is normal, and the amount I'm seeing is very little. I'm going to play with my return line and return gasket before making any decisions to tap the block. I've also never once seen smoke out my exhaust...

I did also yank the PCV hose off the MAF piping and threw a breather filter in. Probably better to be getting only clean air in the intake anyways. Screw the environment :evil:

[Nexus1155]

hah yeah I lurk here alot, and stay in the background most of the time after the whole sleey0 thing. I like watching your builds progress.

I dunno, IMO whenever you turbo a car that isn't turboed to begin with from the factory, theres always going to be small BSey problems. Not something that will blow up the engine, but small things to irk you.

You guys have the oil drains going legit down into the oil pan. Mine are shaped like an L and have a small incline and then goes into the pan but it is on the line right above the pan. If mine doesnt have problems even with an incline in my oil returns which is technically a no no, then you shouldnt either.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return.

Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

[PETERPOOP]

Progress so far...

Got the pan back on. Decided to go below the oil line. Installed the turbo manifold, turbo, and downpipe. The oil send/return line, and now working on the water line.

Tightened the bango fitting with this ghetto trick.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0852.jpg

Got the manifold and turbo in place without removing the A/C line. We bolted the turbo to the manifold behind the engine, and then lifted it up and bolted it to the block. We didn't bolt it together first and then try and wedge it into place. It was easier to bolt it together while behind the engine.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0854.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0857.jpg


Quick question. Getting ready to put on the water line to the turbo. I am going to get it from the throttle body coolant lines. Just wondering if it matters which direction it flows into the turbo? Not sure which is "in" and which is "out." Even with the throttle body lines, which is "in" and which is "out." Obviously I can't start up the car to see which way it flows from the engine. If anyone knows, thanks in advance.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return.

Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

This was actually my first idea as to leaking oil. I undoubtedly had a kink in my PCV line, so I ended up pulling it and putting a breather on like two days ago. Carlos was telling me it wasn't possible though, so I dunno. I'll be watching my intake carefully... My ongoing code, P0101, hasn't returned after clearing it when I put that breather on as well.

PETERPOOP, the coolant flow direction doesn't matter. Great progress so far keep it up :biggrin:

[Tamago]

Quick question. Getting ready to put on the water line to the turbo. I am going to get it from the throttle body coolant lines. Just wondering if it matters which direction it flows into the turbo? Not sure which is "in" and which is "out." Even with the throttle body lines, which is "in" and which is "out." Obviously I can't start up the car to see which way it flows from the engine. If anyone knows, thanks in advance.

the cool water (inlet) should be on the lowest fitting of the turbo.

[Nexus1155]

Crush washers are said to only need 12 ftlbs of torque to seal, usually i see them require about 85ft lbs torque to never leak. You might be better off shaving the sides of a wrench, or making a crow foot deal by welding a closed end side of the wrench onto a socket so you can get a wrench in there in some way.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Crush washers are said to only need 12 ftlbs of torque to seal, usually i see them require about 85ft lbs torque to never leak. You might be better off shaving the sides of a wrench, or making a crow foot deal by welding a closed end side of the wrench onto a socket so you can get a wrench in there in some way.

I definitely agree - they need way more torque than advertised. Without taking the turbo apart I got them pretty tight but they still leaked. It's easy to take apart too - the only thing holding it together is that c-ring thing I think it's called.

There wasn't room to fit a 17mm socket on it, right? I can't remember, but I do remember not using a socket...

[Nexus1155]

I'd take pics of the tools I made, but you shave down the edges of a wrench to fit it in there easier.

The crow foot is if you cut a box wrench in half and use the closed side and weld a socket on there so you can turn it with a ratcheting wrench. I don't know how to explain this better than that.

[rob323]

I just had another idea as to the case of the backup on the return.

Everyone is thinking the return is too restrictive. Well has anyone considered there's a restriction in the PCV valve? If you had a build up of pressure in the crankcase, if the pressure isn't getting out the PCV valve there's only one other option, the drain line for the turbo.

Or as the cars get older, the dip sticks pop out. :biggrin:

This would be why most factory turbo cars have two breathers on the rocker cover, one with the pcv to the plenum, the other back to the intake before the turbo.

[PETERPOOP]

Done.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0887.jpg

More pics to come after Turkey dinner.

[Yoda]

Holy shit!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Looks great.

How'd you mount the intercooler?

[PETERPOOP]

For the AEM meth injection squirter/nozzle, a hole was needed to be drilled to fit it. We slightly bent the pipe so the nozzle could squirt towards the throttle body.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0869.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0871.jpg

Oil catch can installed..

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0880.jpg

For the intercooler, it was mounted with some brackets we made for the bottom. Some plumber's tape was used for the top. It was kinda hard to make the intercooler centered, but we got it as close as we could.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0872.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0868.jpg

Top shot..

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0893.jpg

[Tamago]

much better looking piping than the Greddy kit for the xA/xB

[Bluevitz-rs]

^ for sure!!!

Looks awesome. I still can't figure out why the intercooler has an offset outlet? It looks weird.

[PETERPOOP]

Thanks guys. This a very short clip of the turbo flutter that happens when shifting. Taken with a junk camera. Expect MUCH MUCH better quality videos once I am tuned.

I am running 14.5 (lean) during WOT, so I haven't been driving the car around that much. It also drives at 15.0 during normal driving conditions (a little lean), and idles from lean to rich. Definitely needs a new tune right. Waiting for the AEM tru boost controller to show up before the tune happens. Mind you, this is running with my supercharger tune that I still currently have. Not sure what kind of AFR numbers you'll get, pretuned, if you didn't have management from the start.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWiamyiPFhQ

[Nexus1155]

Anything outside of boost, 13.5-16.0 is acceptable, mostly it tries to stay stoich at 14.7.

You are also running a non recirculated BOV it seems, you can see the AFR gauge go rich when the BOV pshhhts.

Boost you should be at 11-12.

Hope you get someone to tune it good for you!

[PETERPOOP]

Just pulled out the old spark plugs, look kind of worn, and the gap is at about 1.2 ( that was with the S/C ). Planning on putting on new ones (NGK Iridiums), any suggestions on a good starting point for the gap?

I'm also running meth injection under boost, will that also affect the gap?



I'm going to have the tuner gap them during the tuning session, but I don't know when I'll be able to get the car tuned. But for now, I am going to put some new ones in.

[PETERPOOP]

The 1.2 is mm, breaks down to like .045 (which is basically stock). But under boost, i was reading requires a smaller gap. Cali yaris is running .028 at IDK how many psi. I was thinking to set the gap at about .035 or something.

Any thoughts?

[cali yaris]

.028 gap at 14 psi up.

At what boost level is your meth injecting? I tuned my car up to 14 psi before it needed the meth.

[PETERPOOP]

Put in the new spark plugs, set the gap at .035. It actually gave me better AFR. It is now running at about 10-11 AFR during WOT, and 14.7-8 during normal driving.

Here's a new short little clip of doing WOT. Click HD and full screen to see the wideband numbers better..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8kXZRORS9rk


Right now I think I have the meth starting at 2psi. But when I get tuned, I am going to talk to the tuner to see when I should have it start.

Also, my current boost gauge is showing about 4.5 lbs of boost. Not too sure how accurate the gauge is. I thought the zage kit comes at 6-7lbs of boost? Going to be putting in a AEM tru boost digital boost controller in the near future. I'm going to set it at 8 lbs of boost.

[cali yaris]

Nice!!

I have my meth start at about 6psi. I don't think you need it before that point.

The zage kit comes with 0.5 bar spring which is just a bit over 7psi.

[Nexus1155]

.26-.30 gap i guess for when you boost. I guess .35 is ok. Watch for misfires, im surprised you didn't hear it breaking up before when it boosts like little pops everywhere.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Also, my current boost gauge is showing about 4.5 lbs of boost. Not too sure how accurate the gauge is. I thought the zage kit comes at 6-7lbs of boost? Going to be putting in a AEM tru boost digital boost controller in the near future. I'm going to set it at 8 lbs of boost.

I had this problem. It disappeared as soon as I put a manual boost controller in though. Now I'm seeing 8ish during normal driving. The wastegate probably cracks around 5 psi and makes it hard to spool up fully.

How's your BOV situation? I watched the second video and can't really hear it. Kinda glad to see you're having fluttering as well... So far I've fully adjusted and loosened the BOV and it still always flutters.

[PETERPOOP]

Slow drive by..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZG5K3LgsJGw


Re gapped to .030

FocusShift: Good to hear about the boost situation. All I hear is the flutter from the turbo. Can't really hear the BOV. You should post a video of yours......

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Slow drive by..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZG5K3LgsJGw


Re gapped to .030

FocusShift: Good to hear about the boost situation. All I hear is the flutter from the turbo. Can't really hear the BOV. You should post a video of yours......

Hm, on closer inspection that BOV sound you have is nothing like mine. That's why I didn't really pick up on it at first. I'll try to get a video this week... Tbh I don't know how to capture the sound on an automatic though :iono:

[PETERPOOP]

Just installed the AEM Tru Boost controller. Putting down about 7.88 lbs of boost. Loving the power. Can't wait to get it retuned. Just waiting for my HKS SSQV 3 BOV to get here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHxZFGqow0c

[Tamago]

Just installed the AEM Tru Boost controller. Putting down about 7.88 lbs of boost. Loving the power. Can't wait to get it retuned. Just waiting for my HKS SSQV 3 BOV to get here.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wHxZFGqow0c

sounds good, but why spend money on the SSQV?

[PETERPOOP]

I found a pretty good deal on the HKS bov and I wanted to try it out. I don't know the quality of the ZAGE bov, and supposedly the HKS bov helps out with performance.

However, unlike most people, I'm not really a fan of the high pitched noise the HKS bov makes.

[Tamago]

I found a pretty good deal on the HKS bov and I wanted to try it out. I don't know the quality of the ZAGE bov, and supposedly the HKS bov helps out with performance.

However, unlike most people, I'm not really a fan of the high pitched noise the HKS bov makes.


there's no way a BOV can improve performance unless the BOV you're currently using is malfunctioning. but a good deal is a good deal, go for it! what will you have to do to modify to make it work?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

^ We both believe the Zage BOV isn't working correctly and is still allowing compressor surge to happen.

Hey Peter, where did you mount your meth tank?

[Tamago]

^ We both believe the Zage BOV isn't working correctly and is still allowing compressor surge to happen.

Hey Peter, where did you mount your meth tank?

so you don't think the bypass valve is opening fully on throttle-lift?

isn't the whole idea of a recirculating valve to help prevent compressor surge?

[rob323]

Unplug the line from the bov and hook it up to a boost gauge to make sure you are getting vacuum when you lift off.

[Tamago]

Unplug the line from the bov and hook it up to a boost gauge to make sure you are getting vacuum when you lift off.

you should have vacuum at idle, no need to hook up a boost gauge, just unhook it and stick your finger over it while the engine is idling. you should feel if you have vacuum. is the vacuum line hooked up to the correct side of the throttle body?

[rob323]

If the vacuum line is hooked up to the wrong side of the throttle body, you will still have vacuum at idle though.

[Tamago]

If the vacuum line is hooked up to the wrong side of the throttle body, you will still have vacuum at idle though.

true, but not as much ;)

[PETERPOOP]

Tamago and rob323: Ok. Here is a picture of the Zage BOV. I was told it was a re-circulating BOV, but i'm pretty sure it's atmospheric.


http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0913.jpg

I'm kinda confused about what you guys are saying about the vacuum line coming off the throttle body. I don't see any vacuum lines on the throttle body; i went to the intake manifold. This is how I have it hooked up...

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0934.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0930.jpg

So that's how I have it hooked up. Am I doing something wrong?

Focus_Shift: Mounted the AEM meth tank inside the car. It's towards the back infront of where the spare tire goes. The backseat isn't there, so it's mounted on a board that was put there to prevent things from sliding forward, where the back seat used to be.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMGP0922.jpg

[chexmix]

damn nice man.. cant wait to see your car in full action

[pimp my yaris]

Looks like its hooked up right to me. My BOV vented very easily and I adjusted the spring tension to make it tighter. I have some compressor surge with normal driving. U may notice a problem with dying out if it vents easily. If you recirculate BOV gasses you wont have any problems though.

[PETERPOOP]

hks ssqv 3 blow off valve installed. hoping to tune it in the near future.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIQUd6l7r5U

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1622.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1621.jpg

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

Sick shit bro, where you get? and did you pay retail?

[PETERPOOP]

Thanks. $150 bucks from a ebay powerseller. Needed to buy the adapter flange too.

[yarisugi]

Wow, that's cheap. I think I paid like $379 for the SSQV for my previous car. Your car is looking good BTW. Clean install. :thumbsup:

[Bluevitz-rs]

is your AFR hitting 15-16 while you're on it?

[PETERPOOP]

Just to let you know, if you paid $150 for it & it was new, its a fake. Its a counterfeit piece. Iv been a distributor of HKS, $150 is below wholesale. Im not flaming you or trying to insult you, Im just informing you of the fact. I have one of those on my car, so far, so good, so dont worry about it failing or anything. Here is info about it directly from HKS:

http://www.hksusa.com/info/?id=3646

I was well aware of the fakes out there on ebay. However, the price on these might be lower than you think. I was looking at reputable websites that are HKS dealers, and there were selling it new for around $200 dollars.

It has the hologram backing and everything seems to be legit? The quality looks and feels top notch.

Anywho, if it's a fake, it's a fake. I was aware of the possibility. But, I'm still sure it's better quality than the one the zage kit came with. It also sounds 10x better than the zage one, IMO. Hopefully it doesn't die out on me in a couple of days. :wink:

EDIT: I looked at the website you provided from HKS about the counterfeit identification, and I am thinking mine might be legit.

According to their website, this is a fake HKS:

http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/HKS%20SSQV%20Imitation1.jpg


REAL HKS:

http://www.hksusa.com/images_products/HKS%20SSQV%20Outer%20Box%20Real.jpg

The difference I see here is the "HKS" emblem that is on the side. If you look at my picture of my BOV, it does have the emblem..

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1621.jpg

Also, my BOV didn't come with the adapter flange like the website shows the counterfeit one does. I had to purchase that separately. My box also has the Japanese characters on the back side of the box, like the real one indicates on the HKS website.

Maybe the counterfeits are getting better?

EDIT AGAIN:

Here's some pictures of the box if anyone can tell anything from that.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1628.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1627.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1624.jpg

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b163/peterpoopmyspace/IMG_1626.jpg

is your AFR hitting 15-16 while you're on it?

It might be at certain times. The car isn't tuned for the turbo yet. However, if you watch the wideband and listen to the engine, the numbers on the wideband are at about 11-12 right before I shift. That is usually the accurate AFR during the current gear you are in (from my experience). The wideband takes time to adjust through your AFR while you are WOT through the gears. So it will show numbers alot of numbers while it's trying to read the AFR, then it steadies out to a constant number right before you shift.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Hmm, it still sounds like you're surging with the SSQV, but I might be wrong. It does sound a lot better though. I'm debating if I should follow suite or not.

As for the fake BOV, who cares? The only thing that matters is that it works. If that holds, then you just got a sweet deal on an even sweeter BOV.

[PETERPOOP]

I don't know where you can hear any compressor surge in that video? There is very minimal compressor surge, or if any with this BOV; as far as I can hear in person. You don't HAVE to get this exact bov. There ARE others out there. ;)

EDIT: Tuning session set for this Saturday morning. :)

[PETERPOOP]

I don't think mine is fake. :redface:

[Tamago]

i'm glad you went turbo :)

[PETERPOOP]

amen to that! i now see the light

[PETERPOOP]

Yup yup. Focus will now be put towards this Saturday's results.

[PETERPOOP]

Ok. Here we go...

WHP: 175.14 TQ: 175.38

Dyno sheet showing current whp/tq with turbo set up in green, and comparing it to old tune with the blitz s/c in blue:

http://i53.tinypic.com/4v6c9d.jpg



So, this was done on 8lbs of boost. However, the 1zz fuel injectors were maxed out. I need bigger injectors. The tuner got the A/F to a little under 12 AFR. He wants it to be at 11.5 AFR. From that, he can richen up the AFR and maybe get a little more power from it. To sum it up, i'll be getting bigger fuel injectors. How big? Not sure yet, tuner is going to figure it out.

Also, the clutch slipped during the tuning session. Yes, I am still using the stock clutch. Yes, I will now be purchasing a new stage 2 clutch. Not sure which one yet. I might get it from the tuning shop, to give him business and in return, hopefully get a cheaper rate for the labor install. Yes, I will also be getting a LSD put in at the same time.

I will be getting rates from him on how much the clutch/lsd/labor will cost on monday (supposedly).

Probably won't have those installed and retuned until the end of the year, i'd think.

He only charged me $150 for the tuning and dyno usage today. I think he felt bad that I now need a new clutch and fuel injectors. lol. He's a super cool and nice guy though. Glad to be giving him business. :)

[cali yaris]

let me know if you want help with those parts, all in stock. Max power at 4700 rpm, haven't seen that before. nice torque!

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Nice numbers. You're lucky to have a nice tuner nearby.

What did you tune, just AFRs? You should see some nice additional numbers if you did timing since you're running meth.

Also, I'm kinda surprised by the injectors maxing. I've calced my 1NZs to be good for about 4500 RPMs at 8 psi of boost. It is what it is though :iono:

I'm in agreement with Garm as well. Max torque @ 4k-ish is just awesome. Zage chose a great turbo for our cars :thumbsup:

[PETERPOOP]

Hey, you guys talking about the torque? If not, you might got it mixed up. Since the two dyno lines intersect each other, it's hard to tell which is which. The one that hits max power at 4500 rpm is the torque. It continues to dip down at 5500 RPM. The HP is the one that peaks at 5500 RPM.

The tuner did the timing also and IDK what else. Ya, he's a good guy. He tunes a lot of cars.

[Yoda]

You think you would be able to raise the boost to 10? I think the stock block should be able to handle it with a really good tune. Then again I haven't really researched our engine that much myself.

[PETERPOOP]

No clue, but I want a little longevity with my engine setup. I won't be doing that. Someone else can be the guinea pig.

[Yoda]

Lol you got me there:redface:.When u get my tuning sorted out I will give it a test and see how long it last. Will be getting an additional block too and building that.

[PETERPOOP]

Well if you plan on doing a built motor in the future, you would be perfect for the test. ;)

I would think you could hit 200whp with 10lbs of boost. If not, it would be close, I think.

[cali yaris]

^ I think so too.

[rob323]

The injectors could quite well be getting max'd out cause the fuel pressure system has no reference to manifold pressure in a stock (return-less) fuel system. If you can raise the fuel pressure as boost increases, it would give you substantial headroom in that side of things. The other problem is that the injectors may not be spraying optimally when having to fight against the boost pressure in the manifold.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I just thought of another problem you guys might be having with tunning... the stock fuel pump is a 2 speed unit. I forget exactly how it operates, but it goes something like, "low speed at idle and cruse" and "high speed under acceleration".

If someone has a repair manual, they should be able to confirm this. Because this could be causing the fuel pressure to jump around

[cali yaris]

Has anyone else had trouble with fuel pressure or the pump at low boost? Seems like everyone would, or no one would.

[rob323]

But has anyone with a stock system monitored the fuel pressure while under boost? no point having 40 psi of fuel pressure at idle if the injectors are just dribbling fuel out when under boost even when at 100% duty cycle.

I don't know over there, but the one Aussie Yaris pump I have pulled out was about the same size as a D cell battery. The pump in the Echo is almost twice the size in comparison.

[cali yaris]

I had 100% stock fuel system at 8 psi. With larger injectors.

I still don't understand why only one person would experience the problem, nor did you explain that point, since you say injectors can't be his problem.

Your experience is helpful -- Just quoting a pressure number doesn't help me understand.

Like Rob said before me, not one person here is monitoring fuel pressure.

I am now, but I don't think that's what you guys meant.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I really think it's the fuel pump as well, but I can't offer any explanation as to why. Wouldn't all the blitz people experience similar problems?

The injectors maxing out just doesn't make sense though. 1ZZ should easily cover 8 psi of boost...

What's the life expectancy on a fuel pump? Maybe Peter's is on its last legs?

[cali yaris]

It's not that difficult to upgrade to a Walbro 255. Can you do that without a return line?

The stock fuel pump is the size of a "D" cell battery, LOL. I posted a pic somewhere of it!

[rob323]

It's a catch 22, if you put even a small walbro in, you would overrun the capacity for the fpr and the return system and end up with a much higher base pressure, good for when on boost but crap for idling and cruising.

Someone with more smarts than me probably could come up with some sort of voltage controller which references to boost pressure and lowers the voltage to the pump at idle and cruise and just ramps it up when positive manifold pressure is detected (or maybe reference it to an air flow reading, anything over and above max NA airflow makes it send more voltage to the fuel pump. That sort of setup might get around to having to fabricate a proper return setup, and if you are going to go to that extent, then you may as well block off the factory return and put in a rising rate regulator and set it up properly.

Has anyone flowed their injectors at varying pressures to see at what pressure they start to atomise the fuel properly? This minimum pressure should be kept in mind when working out your fuel pressure requirements and the amount of boost that you are going to run.

[rob323]

Simple fix, block off the return, run max fuel pressure all the time that the pump can supply, run rich as hell and watch those injectors never get over 50% duty cycle :laugh:

And keep a back up supply of fuel pumps in the glove box for when they give up the ghost.:biggrin:

[PETERPOOP]

greddy emanage ultimate. Still trying to talk to the tuner about all of this...

[PETERPOOP]

Ok. Well I talked vaguely to the tuner via email and he suggested the walbro 255. however, i don't know if he is putting much thought into it or not whether i need to run a return fuel line or not. i mentioned it to him, but he didn't address it via email.

Question. Would the tuner be able to successfully tune with the walbro 255/larger injectors in place, and no return system?

Wondering if i should just try the larger injectors first, and see if that fixes the problem. Then if not, get a larger fuel pump and go from there.


I'll be going with the spec stage 2+ clutch and flywheel; also a Kaaz LSD.

[cali yaris]

injectors go on in minutes, you'll know if you're on the right track. Installing and running a fuel pump and especially a return line is a pain in the butt.

[cali yaris]

Another option is to lower the boost which will in turn require less fuel demand.

How dare you give him these silly ideas? That is not an option! :laugh:

[Focus_Sh1ft]

I'm surprised pimp my yaris hasn't chimed in yet, as he's running the 255 with no problems.

Then again, he wouldn't have any excessively rich problems since he's tuning in open loop.

And no reason to turn down the boost... Just don't drive really hard. I'm sure I'd be having the exact same problem if I threw my car on a dyno. Fact is, I have no plans to, and never see the need to exceed 4000 RPMs during daily driving.

[PETERPOOP]

Just put in a Spec stage 2+ clutch, Spec lightened flywheel, and Kaaz LSD. Feels gooooood.

ps: Sorry tamango.