Do I need new lugnuts?

[Frankd1]

I was installing my winter tires and steelies that I ordered from tirerack.com and I realized that the lugnuts that came with the car (RS hatchback) are for the aluminum rims so I wasn't sure if I could use them with the steels or not.

They are stepped in their design and have a washer that fits against the aluminum rim and the narrower part passes through the rim and engages the stud.

When I installed them onto the steels I noticed that even though the tips are chamfered and fit the hole in the steel wheel there is nothing for the washer to press against and they sit quite high. Should I purchase a regular set of lugnuts that are regular height and have a chamfered tip or will these be safe to install?

Any local parts store? What is the size of lugnut that I should be asking for or do I just go by the make and model of the car

Pics included:

You can see the shape of the lugnut, how they are meant to fit the OEM aluminum rim and how they fit on the aftermarket steel wheel....

[Flipper_1938]

!

[Frankd1]

I will thanks!

[Frankd1]

No such luck, I wonder if I needed to specify this when I ordered?

[CTScott]

If they didn't just mess up and forget to throw them in the box, you can pickup a set of M12 x 1.5 acorn type lugnuts at any auto parts store.

[Flipper_1938]

!

[Frankd1]

I think they probably forgot to add them with the shipment.....

Thanks for the specs CTScott!

[Flipper_1938]

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[MUSKOKA800]

You can get tapered old school steel lug nuts dirt cheap at the dealer or auto parts house. No point spending extra for chrome just to have old man winter chew them up.

[severous01]

there are specific lug nuts for steel wheels and specific different lugs for aluminum wheels. you dont need the lugs that hold on the hubcaps because toyota hubcaps are held on by springs on the outside of the wheel. some hubcaps use a large ring on the nut to hold the cap on the wheel....you dont need these lugs.

also, aftermarket rims dont use those style lugs either. they use a standard 45* nut. and they need to be re-torqued 500 miles later.

[thebarber]

bah, i ran oem alloy nuts on the steelies i ran on my matrix xrs....only thing with the washers is that they make a bit of noise.

if you're local, im pretty sure i have an extra set of stock nuts...

[OTA'sTOY]

+1

bah, i ran oem alloy nuts on the steelies i ran on my matrix xrs....only thing with the washers is that they make a bit of noise.

[Frankd1]

I called Tire Rack and they said that I didn't get an extra set of lugs because their computer system says that the OEM's can be used....fair enough!

I went to the wreckers yesterday and found buckets of lugnuts, so I picked 16 of them that were the same and they were free!! They are standard lugs with a tapered/chamfered tip, they are all the same height except for 4 of them which are a little bit taller but they all threaded onto the studs with no problems so I torqued them down to 80 lbs/ft.
They will get covered up by plastic hubcaps!

Thanks for the offer thebarber, I'm in London, On!

On another note,

I figured I would pop the drums and have a look at the rear brakes and clean everything while the back end was up. I was able to get the drivers side drum off but I had a bit of difficulty with the passenger side.
I noticed the 2 holes where you can thread a bolt into to pop the drum off of the hub.....what type of bolt/thread do I need for this?

[Klink10]

Can't remember the size but I picked 2 up at Lowes. Emergency brake off. Steel wheels might be rusted on so do the anti-seize thing on install.

Added after a search vvvvv

Don't quote me, but seems like the size might be 8mm x 1.25

[Frankd1]

Thanks klink, I did in fact apply anti-seize to the inside of the rim where it contacts the drum!

[CTScott]

I can't remember or find what size bolt is required, but here's what the service manual says:

3. REMOVE REAR BRAKE DRUM SUB-ASSEMBLY
(a) Release the parking brake and remove the rear
brake drum.
If the rear brake drum cannot be removed easily,
perform the following procedure.
(b) Remove the hole plug and insert a screwdriver
through the hole into the backing plate, and hold the
automatic adjust lever away from the adjuster.
(c) Using another screwdriver, contract the brake shoe
by turning the adjusting bolt.

[thebarber]

just steal a bolt from somewhere else on the car ;)

[Frankd1]

Thanks CTScott, but I don't think its the shoes that are preventing the drum from coming off, I think its the drum that is stuck to the hub from likely a bit of corrosion.

The drivers side came off with a bit of encouragement from a mallet and a piece of wood by gently tapping on the edge of the drum to free it but when I went to the pax side it was getting late and I didn't want to wrestle with it, thats when I noticed the 2 threaded holes.

I will see if I have anything around here that is the proper thread or as barber said, there is probably a bolt somewhere else on the car!

[Flipper_1938]

!

[thebarber]

I like London. That is where I stay when I have to go to CAMI in Ingersoll.

Matter of fact, I'm listening to FM96 online right now!

lol, fingerhole....

friends of mine live in ingersoll

i lived in london for about 8 years before i moved out east to the maritimes