Does Ignition Switch ACC provide 12v for remote wire?

[marco_george]

Hi, I'm hooking up my amp to the stock head unit with a LOC. My amp is working because I tested it on my other car just yesterday, but when I hooked it up to the yaris, and the remote wire to the Ignition Switch ACC, the amp doesn't turn on? It's my understanding that the ignition switch acc wire running from the back of the stereo provides 12v when the car starts. Am I wrong?

The wiring diagram is on page 16 of http://www.etimago.com/yaris/repairmanual/Audio%20Visual.pdf

Thanks!

[swidd]

I thought that wire was suppose to go to a wire on the back of the stereo? Was it the yellow?

[marco_george]

It is a wire that goes to the back of the stereo, specifically the gray Ignition one.

I'm not sure if you're right, because the yellow wire on the back of the stereo is for the RL- speaker. Are you talking about the stock stereo or an aftermarket one?

Would the black battery power supply wire work? It's a constant 12v, I could put a switch on the remote wire...

[_S7V7N_]

If this is the Diagram you were looking at then the Ignition would be D10-3.

http://i232.photobucket.com/albums/ee171/dark_mess1ah/Yaris%20Install/Yarifuse.jpg

Did you check if there was any current comming from the end of that wire you connected ? Like with a DMM or a Light Tester ?

[marco_george]

No i didn't :/

Something else came up too, when I was pulling the edit: power wiring through the cabin, I hit something metal, and the power line's fuse blew out. Now only the drivers side power window works, none of the others do. I'm hoping that the reason the windows don't work is just a fuse. Are there other possibilities?

Should I try D10-4? I do have a switch, so if that one works, I could deal with it, I suppose.

But if D10-3 wasn't giving 12v, then wouldn't that mean my radio wouldn't turn on either?

[_S7V7N_]

Ground wire ? K, rewind, what wires are you running ? Lets go on ahead and go into brief detail on what type of system you're wiring up from what i've read you have :

Line Output Converter, which will have you RCA's running to the amp from.

You'll need a remote wire, which D10-3 will provide for you if wired correctly.

You'll need a Fused 8 Gauge , 4 Gauge , or 0 Gauge wire ran from your battery for power.

Your Ground wire will match whatever Gauge you used on your Power wire. This wire can be connected to a bolt in your trunk area, be sure to make sure you scrape the paint off this bolt so it's bare metal.

Please fill in whatever is missing, and we'll be more than happy to help.

And test your fuses to see what else popped, hopefully this time you'll disconnect your ground wire from the battery before you continue running wires. If you're using a DMM you'll do a continuity test by touching each side of the fuse with each lead. If you use a light tester you'll have to touch both sides of the fuse and make sure the light turns on.

[marco_george]

Edit: Just kidding, the window button was down, so no fuse problems at all.

So I can use the DMM to test D10-3 to see how many volts it's putting out? I'm sorry, I'm extremely noob at this kind of stuff. Oh and for the Line Out Converter, I cut the rear speaker wires, then twined all three, the two ends for speaker and the one going to the LOC together. Then I electrical taped it, is that a legitimate way to feed off of the rear speaker wires?

Maybe my amp is blown, which is odd because it was working last week. I'll get another amp from a friend to test it out I guess...

[ffourie]

How did you go with this marco_george. Is it a working amp? Did you get your remote wire connected via D10-3, or did you opt for the constant power (black?) wire, and connect a switch to the remote wire. Only asking because I just received my LOC, so I'll be doing the exact same setup soon.