Yaris starts then it wont start.

[wush11]

Hi All
First post so go easy on me please.

Just got a yaris 1999 as a run around for my partner and kids.
Problem is i can go out and it starts first time no problem. I will drive 10 min up to the shop come back out and it just will not start.

I will leave it for 20 min and then it will start up. But this is not always the case so i have to get a tow back to the house.

Any help would be great folks.

Thanks Gary

[Betrivent]

What size engine does it have?

[Happy Little Pony]

When you say it doesn't start, do you mean you turn the key and nothing happens? Or does the starter crank the engine but the engine doesn't run?

[Betrivent]

^^ What he said too.

[wush11]

Thanks for the reply

Yes the car will start up no problem. I can drive for 10 minutes then if I knock it off it will not start again.
The starter does crank but will not start. Then leave it for 20 min or so come back out to it and it starts.
It is a 1L.
Sorry about short message in work using phone to type

[Betrivent]

Next time you're about to turn off the ignition, let it idle for 30 seconds maybe? It sounds like it might be very slightly flooded.

I'm no tech expert on cars yet, but it sounds like it could eb the reason.

[kustom play]

injector issue?

not sure but if that has a cold start injector or not but maybe a clogged injector, starts up when the cold start injector kicks on?

[Betrivent]

Yeah, either way it sounds like something to do with fuel delivery, or even more unlikely spark plug issues. But then the engine should still start

[wush11]

Thanks all
Looking around the net and it could be a few things.

1 fuel pump
2 spark plugs
3 immobilizer
4 sensor (a few types)
5 ecu
Looks like i will have to start at the cheap end of the list and work my way up.
Strange no problems out of it today mind you only started it two times one going to work and one coming home. (just dont want the other half driving it right now if she broke down i would have to leave work and get her so i will drive it for a bit)
I know the car is old but toyota go for ever dont they 90000 on the clock so not big miles for the age.

[Betrivent]

Well immobilizer, what would happen is apparently the car forgets the key is YOU per se. I think the way my brother in law did it was sit in his car for a few minutes with the key turned to "ON" until it reset itself, I guess. Does your ignition area have a black plastic ring around it?

[auxmike]

Vapor lock? Leaky injectors, clogged fuel filter? Bad ign. cables or coil?:iono:

[WeeYari]

Looking around the net and it could be a few things.

1 fuel pump
2 spark plugs
3 immobilizer
4 sensor (a few types)
5 ecu
Looks like i will have to start at the cheap end of the list and work my way up.


Wouldn't it be potentially cheaper to take it to a trusted mechanic?

[auxmike]

Kinda agree. Working your way up the parts "ladder" of potential problems is known as troubleshooting from the hip!:confused:

[Happy Little Pony]

The behavior sounds like something that works when it's cold, stops when the part heats up, and then works again when it cools off. Or, alternately, it could just be an intermittent problem that happens coincidentally.

What you'll have to determine is whether its a fuel issue or a spark issue. Unfortunately, I'm unfamiliar with that engine, but the way we did it in the olden days was to pull off a spark plug wire, stick a screwdriver up into the terminal, and hold it near a metal part of the engine. If a spark arcs from the screwdriver to the metal, it mean you're getting spark and the most likely culprit is a fuel problem. If you don't get any spark, then you can start troubleshooting the ignition system. If none of this makes any sense to you, seek competent help.

[slow.yaris]

Wouldn't fuel pump, spark plugs, sensors all throw a code? I would check for codes even if its not showing up, the LED could be bad, or previous owner could have taken it out.

I understand the warming and cooling down thing, but I think it would be really weird to have a fuel pump or spark plugs that won't START when warm, but give you no trouble when driving around - while warm.

Ignition coils is my guess, but I also agree, take it to a mechanic before you start changing random parts.

[Happy Little Pony]

Wouldn't fuel pump, spark plugs, sensors all throw a code? I would check for codes even if its not showing up, the LED could be bad, or previous owner could have taken it out.

I understand the warming and cooling down thing, but I think it would be really weird to have a fuel pump or spark plugs that won't START when warm, but give you no trouble when driving around - while warm.

Ignition coils is my guess, but I also agree, take it to a mechanic before you start changing random parts.

My gut makes me think it might be something like the fuel pump relay.

We've had several Fords in the family over the years and in the eighties they were notorious for having a little ignition module doo-dad that, when they started to fail, wouldn't start when hot. I'm pretty sure that "ignition module doo-dad" is the correct technical term, although it might have been "that thingamabob that's hooked onto the distributor."

[bronsin]

I had an engine with a bad ignition coil like that once. The dealer replaced it as a "precaution" because the car had 150k miles on it. Well when they mounted it they overtightened the clamp and kind of crushed the coil a little, dammageing it. The engine started and ran normal until it warmed up. Then it wouldnt run and wouldnt start. I myself found the dammaged coil and replaced it just because it was cheap to do. That fixed it.

If its not the coil i have to believe its another faulty electrical part which is failing after the engine warms up.

[Bluevitz-rs]

95% sure you have a leaking injector. Put some injector cleaner in and drive the piss out of it for 10 minutes on the highway/freeway. 6000RPM will fix most problems.

[ilikerice]

My gut makes me think it might be something like the fuel pump relay

im gonna second this one. if the fuel pump relay coil side gets hot and worn, it will have a hard time producing a current thru the coil to get a good enough magnet to pull (or push) the switching side of the relay. when the relay is cooled down enough, current can run easily thru the coil and create a stronger magnetic coil.

we have a problem like this with most little civics with thier main relays, the main relay is also the fuel pump relay.
if you wanted to start with the cheapest part first and go from there, i think the fuel pump relay is your cheapest way to start off with