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H3LlIoN
01-08-2011, 02:01 AM
I'm posting this here as well, since I know some of you all aren't on MI....

There's also a DIY available here... (http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php/3211-The-Yaris-Flywheel-DIY-%28as-performed-on-a-2009-3dr-liftback%29) pics will be up by Sunday. PM me or post with questions. Thanks.

- H


It's always been one of my biggest gripes about manual transmissions...You set off from the line in a drag and the adrenaline rushes as you inch forward on the competition. As you hit the power band, the engine comes alive as the car surges forward clicking it off...four thousand...five thousand...six thousand....you look back in the mirror and see the front bumper of the competition as the shift light flashes like a camera and snaps you back in to the moment. You reach for the shift knob as you slam the clutch to the floor, rip the shifter back and dump the clutch....only to hear the deep burble of a strained engine...it's the last thing you hear as you catch the glare off the chrome trim of the car next to you as he sneaks on by, laughing his way all the way to the finish line....

It's all too common, in this day and age. I, too, used to suffer from heavyflywheelitis, but then I talked to my doctor (Garm), and he told me about this wonderful new product, available over the counter and without a prescription, available new from CCI and Micro Image.

http://i55.tinypic.com/4zssbl.jpg

Hehe. I got a little carried away with the intro, but the situation I described above is an experience I've definitely had with the yaris at the track. I remember the last time...it was a mazda3 2.0L wagon, and I had her, all the way to second gear. :(

As I'm sure most of you know from the DIY, CCI is coming to market with a line of performance flywheels/clutches for the 1nz motor. Garm asked that I install and review the CCI flywheel unit as well as write the DIY on behalf of MI. The flywheel has been in for a few weeks now, but I wanted to spend a decent bit of time driving the unit so that I could speak to the differences between the lightweight vs stock, as opposed to initial shock reviews. After about 500 miles, I am prepared to comment on the unit. Furthermore, no other modifications were made to the car to influence my opinion one way or the other.

Firstly though, a basic list of pros/cons of lightweight flywheels one might find on google:

Good: increased acceleration and throttle response, lighter weight, decreased turbo lag
Bad: loss of engine momentum during shifts resulting in a need to shift more quickly

Now that that's done, my personal experience has been that this is an outstandingly rewarding modification. If you've ever done the NST lightweight crank pulley, imagine that same feeling, except tripled. The difference is undeniable. I can't go to the track to pull 60 ft times since they are closed, but the butt dyno is off the charts on this one. My car accelerates a lot more quickly out of the hole. Furthermore, the engine used to bog down a lot when starting off and after shifting. You could hear the intake drone get deeper as the engine fought back up in the rpm range . That's all gone now.

From a start, the car sets off in no time, and it's much easier to break the tires loose if you're not careful. After shifts, the engine is back in the powerband almost as soon as my foot touches the accelerator. The throttle response is crisper than ever. I also find that it's much easier to pass people when necessary...the car gets up after downshift much easier than she used to. All things considered, this is my most favorite modification to date in terms of personal enjoyment.

From a fuel economy perspective, I'm not a green nut, and I think an ecometer is blasphemous, but I would speculate that this would also be good for hypermiling as well. The engine used to be incredibly loud at highway speeds (especially without a backseat) and it runs so much quieter now, as it doesn't have to spin the heavy steel unit. I have not yet hooked up a tach to see if there is an actual difference in rpm, but I do plan on it this weekend.

This one gets 5 thumbs up from me. I have not had any negative experiences from the unit since install. My only neutral comment would be that I have to skip 3rd when downshifting for the purpose of slowing, as the engine doesn't have the drag that it used to, but that's not really a negative. As far as the "google con" about shifting quickly, it is a non issue on the 1nz. My car doesn't care if I shift like the devil, or like betty white....either way all I have to do it look at the accelerator pedal and it's back up @ redline. I <3 lightweight flywheel :nomnomnom:

Regarding the turbo lag, I can't comment, as I'm not blown at this time. I'm sure Garm will chime in on that issue.

Regarding the CCI unit specifically, it's a beautiful piece that I am happy to have installed. Fit and finish is excellent, and CCI did a great job. Even with steel, they still came in at 9.2 pounds (down from 15.1 stock.) While I had previously looked at flywheels, I had concerns about the existing aluminum designs in terms of durability and longevity. Furthermore, similar aluminum units are two piece designs, adding internal connectors and bolts to secure steel friction plates to the aluminum wheel. I have no such concerns with the one piece steel CCI unit.

We're still waiting to hear back from CCI as to availability/price on this, as well as the clutch kits. The unit has not yet been released, but we are also anticipating an SFI rating. Keep an eye out on the forums and in the store...I'm sure Garm will have an official release notice soon.

As far as compatibility, I *believe* this unit will be universal for 1nz's, meaning yaris/xb/xa/echo/vios & prius.


Here's (http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywheel/how_a_lightweight_flywheel_works.htm) some calculations and theory concerning lightweight flywheels. While not directly related to the 1nz unit, the mathematics at least illustrate the point. I don't have the inertia numbers on the 1nz units to work it up for our car, although I will try and find this info so that I can do a 1nz specific comparison.

So, to sum up....Awesome friggin' mod, wish I'd done it months ago. :thumbup:

cali yaris
01-08-2011, 02:18 PM
I <3 lightweight flywheel :nomnomnom:

That says it all. It's a good mod for those with the skill or budget to get in that deep and swap it.

johnny_vitz
01-08-2011, 02:35 PM
What is the weight compared to stock?

WeeYari
01-08-2011, 02:58 PM
as stated...

Even with steel, they still came in at 9.2 pounds (down from 15.1 stock.)

Parmas
01-10-2011, 02:00 AM
From a start, the car sets off in no time, and it's much easier to break the tires loose if you're not careful. :

This seems a good one but unfortunately mine at a stop "breaks the tires loose" with the stock flywheel already at 3500rpm with LSD and semi-slick tires @ only 9psi boost. I can only worse the starting point with this..

If you are going for turbo, you should consider my opinion... just a cent although again nice mod indeed!

cali yaris
01-10-2011, 12:32 PM
unfortunately mine at a stop "breaks the tires loose" with the stock flywheel already at 3500rpm with LSD and semi-slick tires @ only 9psi boost

Strange, mine doesn't do that. Maybe a lightweight flywheel is an improvement. :smile:

H3LlIoN
01-10-2011, 01:13 PM
Yeah...as far as lightweight flywheel and turbo, I'd have to defer to Garm, as I can't comment from actual experience. It's *supposed* to reduce turbo lag, from what I've read.

Parmas
01-11-2011, 01:59 PM
Strange, mine doesn't do that. Maybe a lightweight flywheel is an improvement. :smile:

I think its the gearbox too low on 1st gear :biggrin:

cali yaris
01-11-2011, 02:20 PM
^ right you might have shorter gears, forgot about that

Bluevitz-rs
01-11-2011, 02:31 PM
What is the weight compared to stock?

My Fidanza weighs in at 8lbs. The stock Echo flywheel is 18lbs. I've had it for more than 50,000km without issue, and it is by far (other than a transmission swap) the best mod for this engine.

Bluevitz-rs
01-11-2011, 02:34 PM
I think its the gearbox too low on 1st gear :biggrin:

Yeah Parmas, 1st gear on the C160 is rediculouly low. Even with no boost I can fry my tires on demand in 1st. I find myself startin in 2nd unless I need to get moving quickly.

Parmas
01-12-2011, 01:43 AM
Yeah Parmas, 1st gear on the C160 is rediculouly low. Even with no boost I can fry my tires on demand in 1st. I find myself startin in 2nd unless I need to get moving quickly.

I don't know why is the C160 so low in 1st... maybe for cars having big wheels. I never tried it but I am about sure I can do a nice burnout with 2nd gear easily

Bluevitz-rs
01-12-2011, 10:20 AM
Well, the C160 is designed to be on a motor with higher RPM torque curve. The 1NZ make a lot of torque low in the revs in comparison.

Jason@SportsCar
01-12-2011, 02:23 PM
Yeah Parmas, 1st gear on the C160 is rediculouly low. Even with no boost I can fry my tires on demand in 1st. I find myself startin in 2nd unless I need to get moving quickly.

Actually the C160 has a taller 1st gear, the difference comes from the 4.529 FD vs the 3.722 in the C50.

C50
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Reverse Final
3.545 1.904 1.310 0.969 0.815 3.250 3.722

C160
1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th 6th Reverse Final
3.166 2.050 1.481 1.166 0.916 0.725 3.250 4.529

Parmas
01-13-2011, 01:58 AM
I made a chart of the C50 vs the C160 gear ratios

The 2nd one is the C160 with the same final drive of the C50 which I think it would be better for turbocharged engines and requires less shifting than normally I do.

Note the MPH at the final gear of the 2nd picture of the c160

Jason@SportsCar
01-13-2011, 01:16 PM
I made a chart of the C50 vs the C160 gear ratios

The 2nd one is the C160 with the same final drive of the C50 which I think it would be better for turbocharged engines and requires less shifting than normally I do.

Note the MPH at the final gear of the 2nd picture of the c160

Yeah the turbo likes some load and time to build boost.

This is our setup with a C50. First is the C50 with the stock FD (green) then the xB FD (red), this does not affect the ratios or gear splits, just offers better acceleration.

The second graph is the C50/xB setup with the short 13" wheel/tire combo we are going to test. We have not run it as speed, but it is violent in 1st gear in the parking lot.

It sure we be nice if we could use the 6spd and get those close ratios. :drool:

http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5283/5352442826_1ed56e2ac8_z.jpg
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5242/5352442800_6061dd1a69_z.jpg

Parmas
01-13-2011, 01:24 PM
So I ask do the final drive of the C160 match the C50?

"For blue-vitz-rs" The C160 expert :)

Bluevitz-rs
01-13-2011, 03:38 PM
No, unfortunately one of the gears for the final drive is part of the output shaft. So any kind of swap is out of the question on the 6 speed with any 5 speed for the FD.

Midnight Drifter
01-18-2011, 03:12 PM
Would it make sense to do the clutch at the same time?

Bluevitz-rs
01-18-2011, 07:26 PM
Would it make sense to do the clutch at the same time?

100% yes.

Otherwise you're taking the transmission off twice.

It still takes me about 2 hours to get the transmission off and on again and I know exactly what to do. I've done it about 4 times now. So if you're doing it yourself and you've never done a clutch or flywheel, you can bank on it being at least a 6-8 hour job.

cali yaris
01-27-2011, 06:39 PM
UPDATE:

Forged steel remains in a solid state throughout the manufacturing process, maintaining a tighter grain structure resulting in higher performance loads.

· Forging does not allow for porosity in castings and ensures a more reliable consistent material flow throughout the part.

· Eliminates ring gear separation.

· Eliminates friction surface and flywheel warpage.

· One piece ring gear for high durability.

· Stamped with 4140 forged plate with 2000 ton pressure at 1260 degrees.

· CNC machined and balanced to OE specifications.

· Meets and exceeds SFI 1.5 specifications.

· The lightweight steel (heavier) version preserves low end torque and drivability.

· All steel flywheels work with any performance and OE clutch assembly.


ETA is about 30-45 days.

johnny_vitz
02-06-2011, 01:52 AM
100% yes.

Otherwise you're taking the transmission off twice.

It still takes me about 2 hours to get the transmission off and on again and I know exactly what to do. I've done it about 4 times now. So if you're doing it yourself and you've never done a clutch or flywheel, you can bank on it being at least a 6-8 hour job.

It pays a tech 7 hours to do, so for someone who hasn't done one before (especially in a driveway or without a lift) I'd make sure you have a couple days down time for it.

cali yaris
05-04-2011, 05:43 PM
UPDATE:

Flywheels are now in stock! And we got more good news. Besides the 9.64 lb light flywheel, we got an ultralight 8.64 lb flywheel -- that is the lightest made I'm pretty sure.

Going up into the store as we speak.... woot!

Bluevitz-rs
05-05-2011, 12:05 AM
My Fidanza flywheel is 8.00 lbs. I weighed I on my digital kitchen scale. The stocker in the echo is a whopping 18 lbs.

cali yaris
05-05-2011, 11:42 AM
^ Those are both different numbers than the Yaris. Yaris stock is 15 pounds, and the Fidanza is 9-something.

cali yaris
05-05-2011, 02:34 PM
Here is the Ultralight version (8.64 lb):

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/CCI-flywheel3.jpg

http://www.microimageonline.com/images/products/engine/CCI-flywheel4.jpg

mazilla
05-05-2011, 03:54 PM
If I was going to pair one of these flywheels with an aftermarket clutch, what stage clutch would you recommend and why?


Keeping in mind I use the car for high speed(whenever possible) long distance commuting, and stop and go LA traffic primarily.

cali yaris
05-05-2011, 07:57 PM
Depends on why you want a clutch. Just for more "grabbiness", or for a future mod that will actually require more clampng force?

mazilla
05-05-2011, 09:55 PM
Depends on why you want a clutch. Just for more "grabbiness", or for a future mod that will actually require more clampng force?


Besides price, are there disadvantages running something in preparation for more power, but far down the road? I'm worried about wearing out the performance clutch before I get around to the mod that requires it. I don't see my current clutch lasting that long so I'll have to pick the clutch long before I decide on the mod... supercharger v. turbo.

Bluevitz-rs
05-06-2011, 12:38 AM
^ Those are both different numbers than the Yaris. Yaris stock is 15 pounds, and the Fidanza is 9-something.

weird why it's different :iono:

but this one looks like it would make for faster revs because the majority of the mass is contained closer to the center than the Fidanza.

cali yaris
05-06-2011, 10:53 AM
^ Yeah, agreed, I don't know either. Maybe we can compare pics of stock flywheels?

mazilla, The Clutchmaster Stage 3 is an awesome clutch that will last a very long time, and take just about whatever power you throw at it. I really like CM for their design, their clutches don't feel very stiff for the clamping force they deliver. And for their customer service. I can get the Stage 2, but with pedal feel the same, there's really no reason to go with that.

I had an Exedy Stage II and that thing was just too stiff for the street. My CM Stage 4 by comparison gives an almost stock pedal feel.

I should also be getting some CCI clutches that will be a better deal, but I haven't tried one so I can't say with confidence how it will actually feel.

Bluevitz-rs
05-06-2011, 12:42 PM
The Echo Flywheels for comparison

Fidanza

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ/IMG_1051.jpg

Stock

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ/DSC_6309.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c250/BLUEVITZ/BLUEVITZ/DSC_6308.jpg

cali yaris
05-06-2011, 12:51 PM
yep, that's quite a bit different than ours.