Stock/Built Motor - Boost and Durability [Archive] - Toyota Yaris Forums

Yoda

01-13-2011, 12:29 PM

As the title suggest this is where I hope to gather all the information for our motor with regards to boost and durability. I think this would provide useful information for members looking to boost the 1NZ.
We would state either stock or built motor, what type of forced induction, SC or turbo, psi, Whp, management, Fuel or ignition upgrades,miles driven while boosted, length of time driven on boost and driving style. Feel free to add any additional information.

I will use myself as an example

Engine: Stock
F/I: Custom turbo kit T25
Boost: 6.5 psi
WHP: N/A
Management: None right now. Aem FIC being shipped.
Fuel upgrade: 1zz injectors only.
Miles on Boost: ~2k miles
Length of time: 1 Month:rolleyes:
Driving style: Eh I rarely floor it maybe 3 times out of the week.

^^^That's just a sample it can be anyway you want to write it. Just some info so we can track what our little engines can put up with for how long.
It is assumed that everything is in working order until you update your post stating any failures that may have occurred.

Any and all ideas how we can make this thread better is welcomed:cool:

cali yaris

01-13-2011, 02:12 PM

^ Just curious, unless someone has a failure to report, how does the information shed light on the subject of durability? We should just report stuff that breaks and when.

I'll play anyway, though. I included the grade of gas I use.

Engine: Built (bore/sleeved/rods/pistons/springs/head work)
F/I: Custom turbo kit T28
Boost: 14-24
WHP: 357
Management: AEM EMS
Fuel upgrade: 632cc injectors, Walbro pump, return line, modified Perrin rail, water/meth
Fuel: Pump gas (91)
Miles on Boost: ~2k miles
Length of time: 6 months
Driving style: I hammer it several times a week and race 1-2 times a month.
MISC: rev limit 7300

xnamerxx

01-13-2011, 02:31 PM

Yoda

01-13-2011, 02:35 PM

^ Just curious, unless someone has a failure to report, how does the information shed light on the subject of durability? We should just report stuff that breaks and when.

We always get questions about how much boost can be run on stock engine and how long it will last and so on and so on. This is just to paint a picture of what every1 has done to there car and how long it has been running under those conditions safely. Each of our setups are a bit different so as a new person I would be able browse and gain an idea of how long at very least I can run a specific setup on my engine before I enter the gray area.
Your idea is also good but then we would have no one posting anytime soon:wink: I would hope that if something breaks further down the line that the poster would update his post.

Yoda

01-13-2011, 02:44 PM

This thread is entirely useless unless you know why the motor failed. Its nice to say say my stock motor blew up with 200hp but go into no detail as to why that happened. If my stock engine runs leans and seizes or burns a piston it wasn't the engines fault that it happened but say a bad injector or fuel pump or if I toss a rod from running to low on oil but happen to make 160 hp with a turbo its not the turbos fault I ran low on oil so a failure diagnosis is more important than yeah I upped the power and now its dead.

I dont think its entirely useless. It covers pretty much questions that people ask often. How much boost,how long you running at that boost, what did you upgrade to run this n that safely. Maybe i thought it was implied that if something breaks that the poster would state what broke and after how many miles n such. Maybe I should up date my first post. Thanks for the input.

xnamerxx

01-13-2011, 04:57 PM

I dont think its entirely useless. It covers pretty much questions that people ask often. How much boost,how long you running at that boost, what did you upgrade to run this n that safely. Maybe i thought it was implied that if something breaks that the poster would state what broke and after how many miles n such. Maybe I should up date my first post. Thanks for the input.

Im not trying to be negative but I could run a 50k miles stock and blow the motor because I never changed the oil and complain how unreliable the car is. I don't like this mileage indicator as a result of failure.

Ive seen failure pictures of other users on this board and most of them are pretty easily traced to something else that isn't a direct result of the modification installed.

I mean its simple if your house gets hit by an earthquake and burns down 2 days later it doesn't mean those 2 actions are related. Ive seen lots of examples of people modding theirs cars and doing no correct tuning to go with it and mix that with a very large community of "tooners" who don't know what their doing and a customer unable to tell the difference and you get inaccurate results. I'm not trying to rain on your parade because it would be nice to know I just have a hard time believing that anything useful will come of this thread.

To use myself as an example my car has 75k of extremely hard driving but Ive had no failures to date on the car because there are things I know not to do. As long as you don't let the car run on empty, run on the rev limiter, or run it out of oil your engine should last as long as it was designed to.
Running the car low on gas and driving hard introduces fuel starvation which makes the motor run lean which causes the pistons to get to hot or detonate and in tern either seize or throw a rod because it cant handle the stress being put on it.
Running it on the rev limit causes the fuel system to cut out which can cause the cylinders to run lean and cause detonation.
Oil is self explanatory run low and good by rod bearings. I mean low as in less than full not lower then the indicated line.

Yoda

01-13-2011, 08:02 PM

The examples you gave are very poor. If you are not comportment enough to know that you need to change your oil then you should not even be driving. In addition the are warning lights for low oil, gas, and the sort. I never intended to use the miles as an idicator of failure. It's simple states how long before you had your first problem while boosted. You seem educated on F/I so you know what problems that can happen.

"Ive seen failure pictures of other users on this board and most of them are pretty easily traced to something else that isn't a direct result of the modification installed. "
^^ that's what you said. So if the problem can be traced to something else then why would blame the modification? You would then exclude that and not report it. This whole thread is mainly focused on the engine. There are only a few things that will ever go wrong with it if not modified or boosted. Toyota made this car pretty much stupid proof.

"To use myself as an example my car has 75k of extremely hard driving but Ive had no failures to date on the car because there are things I know not to do. As long as you don't let the car run on empty, run on the rev limiter, or run it out of oil your engine should last as long as it was designed to. "
^^^ My question to this is are you boosted? You give people here little credit. Most members here if not all know what's good and bad for a F/I car.

Example as if I were to update my post with my first failure

Current miles while boosted: 8k
Failure: dang my engine crapped out on me. Inpected it only to find metal shavings from the side wall. Not sure what happened gonna look into some more.
Maybe a weak example but hope you get my point. So as a reader if I were to see this I would kno that I would have to look out for something like that possibly happening around that time and set in motions to prevent that.
Let me remind you everything starts with data logging. How do we know that we need an oil change like every 3k miles, how do we kno that we need to change our timing belt at xmiles. People have tested and logged all this info. The same concept applies here.

Sent from iPhone.

Blown_xa

01-13-2011, 08:34 PM

ohhhhhhhh man, I have to set aside some time but i will post up my motor failures .

Yoda

01-13-2011, 09:51 PM

Looking forward to your contribution :thumbup:

Parmas

01-14-2011, 02:36 AM

I agree with Yoda ... people need info on this engine since we are boosting without knowing where is the limit.

I am sure not every yaris owner has the cash to build a complete engine (excluding XBG :) )... so if we assure these people that with a set of pistons and rods you are safe until X Boost on an X turbo revving above X RPM, damn that would made my life better from this moment!

- Engine: Built (rods/pistons/) Complete Stock Head including bolts and springs
-F/I: Custom turbo kit T28
-Boost: 9psi till now
-WHP: Need to dyno before
-Management: Haltech Pro Sport 1000
-Fuel upgrade: 630cc injectors, Walbro pump, return line, modified custom rail, upgraded fuel regulator
-Fuel: Pump gas (91)
Miles on Boost: ~1k miles
Length of time: 2 years ( driven occassionally )
Driving style: Today I occasionally push it because I am still tuning on it
MISC: rev limit 5500 till now

Wait we forgot ignition!

-Ignition : 4 LS2 Dedicated Haltech Truck Coils with Silkolene HighTension Leads / Denso Iridium IK22 Spark Plugs (Step colder)

My main fears are the valve springs and head bolts. I am risking much on this ... I really need assurance I am safe until Xboost - XRpm

cdydjded

01-14-2011, 11:52 AM

-Engine: Complete Stock
-F/I: Custom turbo kit T28
-Boost: 5-6psi
-WHP: 155 (@ 4psi)
-Management: AEM FIC
-Fuel upgrade: 1ZZ injectors
-Fuel: 93
Miles on Boost: +/-10000 miles
Length of time: +/- 1 years
Driving style: Drive it everyday to & from work, avg -/+400 miles a week

PETERPOOP

01-14-2011, 11:58 AM

-Engine: Complete Stock
-F/I: Zage turbo kit
-Boost: 8 psi
-WHP: 175
-Management: Greddy Emanage Ultimate
-Fuel upgrade: 1ZZ injectors, Water/Meth
-Fuel: 92
Miles on Boost: +/- 500 miles
Length of time: 2 months
Driving style: Only drive it on weekends, if that. I go WOT at least 3x when I drive it.

* I am throwing a CEL that is saying my 2nd o2 sensor isn't reading correctly.

EDIT:

Forgot to mention, before the current turbo setup, I have been running the Blitz Supercharger for around a year. Not sure how many miles I did while having it, but it had to have been over a couple thousand. I was running 8 PSI with that too, at 140whp (same dyno that I dynod the zage kit on).

Focus_Sh1ft

01-15-2011, 09:51 PM

Engine: Stock
F/I: Zage Kit
Boost: 7 psi
WHP: N/A
Management: AEM FIC - open loop tuning
Fuel upgrade: None. Meth soon.
Fuel: 93 octane
Miles on Boost: 4k miles
Length of time: 4 months
Driving style: Never go WOT or even exceed 4k RPMs during daily driving.

Currently have no issues to really report, although I suspect I have a boost leak still. But that only limits max performance, the car drives great otherwise.

johnny_vitz

01-17-2011, 02:26 PM

Engine: Stock
F/I: Greddy s/c kit
Boost: 8.5 PSI
WHP: 133
Management: E-manage Blue
Fuel upgrade: 1ZZ Injectors
Fuel: Pump gas (94)
Miles on Boost: 25,000 miles
Length of time: 2 years
Driving style: I hammer it several times a week and race 2-4 times a year

pimp my yaris

01-17-2011, 11:06 PM

engine: stock
induction: custom T25 w/intercooler
Boost: 8 psi
injectors: stock
piggy back: AEM FIC open loop tuning
Fuel pump: stock 93octane
WHP: ?
5 months boosted about 6K miles
I drive it like I stole it. Floored several times a day. :burnrubber:

Yoda

01-17-2011, 11:17 PM

^^^^lol pimp. Whats even sweeter is that it starts to spool for me at 1700rpm......

schragen

01-19-2011, 01:06 PM

-Engine: Complete Stock
-F/I: Zage turbo kit
-Boost: 4psi (break-in baseline tune)
-WHP: ~125-130
-Management: Greddy Emanage Ultimate
-Fuel upgrade: 2AZ injectors
-Fuel: 91 V-POWAAAA
Miles on Boost: <1k
Length of time: 1 month
Driving style: daily driven, try to keep it under 4k rpm for the rest of the break in period

* I am throwing a CEL that is saying my 1st o2 sensor is running lean AND rich, that will most likely change when i go performance tune

Parmas

01-19-2011, 01:42 PM

Thanks for the persons who posted a clean answer and of course for participating

Cheers and lets keep the little one boosted :)

Focus_Sh1ft

01-19-2011, 03:34 PM

* I am throwing a CEL that is saying my 1st o2 sensor is running lean AND rich, that will most likely change when i go performance tune

That makes four of us that have had the AFR sensor flip out after seeing boost for awhile.

Definitely a strange problem, I suspect you guys that are tuning in closed loop may eventually have problems of the car randomly switching to open loop like I did. Would definitely recommend keeping an eye on open loop/ closed loop status.

schragen

01-19-2011, 03:56 PM

That makes four of us that have had the AFR sensor flip out after seeing boost for awhile.

Definitely a strange problem, I suspect you guys that are tuning in closed loop may eventually have problems of the car randomly switching to open loop like I did. Would definitely recommend keeping an eye on open loop/ closed loop status.

im sorry im pretty noob still, how would i accomplish keeping an eye on open/closed loops?

Focus_Sh1ft

01-19-2011, 08:54 PM

im sorry im pretty noob still, how would i accomplish keeping an eye on open/closed loops?

You need to monitor it with an OBDII device. Scangauge is the perfect thing to have for the boosted due to all the things it can display AND read codes. :thumbsup:

schragen

01-19-2011, 08:58 PM

ahh well i guess that will bump up on my list of things to get ASAP

Focus_Sh1ft

01-19-2011, 09:08 PM

Agreed, having a code reader is a must.

Being boosted isn't exactly cheap but you can't tell me it's not worth it :biggrin:

cali yaris

01-19-2011, 10:12 PM

Being boosted isn't exactly cheap but you can't tell me it's not worth it

That might have to go into my sig file :laugh:

monchyxb

05-08-2011, 08:32 PM

Engine: Stock
Induction: Greddy 14g turbo/custom ic
Boost:10psi
Whp: ~180
Management: Aem FIC
Fuel upgrades: Walbro 255lph/ Perrin Fuel Rail/ 2az injectors
Fuel: 93oct
Miles on boost: 1.5 years ~ 15K
Driving style: Very Agresive! I floor it everytime I can!
Other stuff: 2ZZ throttle body/ Custom 2.5" exhaust

Yoda

05-08-2011, 09:22 PM

Thx for contributing:burnrubber:
Just thought about this but shouldn't you be putting out more power than that @10psi? I mean you turbo is bigger after all and has a higher cfm. Maybe it the tune?

scioncrew

05-09-2011, 02:42 AM

guys the biggest reason of engine fails is an improper tune. no matter how well you build your motor a bad tune will kill it in a hart bet.

Anyways here my Xb

Engine: Built (bore/sleeved/rods/pistons/springs/head work/cams)
F/I: Custom turbo kit T28
Boost: 14-20
WHP: 280
Management: AEM EMS
Fuel upgrade: 632cc injectors, Walbro pump, return line, modified Perrin rail
Fuel: Pump gas (91)
Miles on Boost: ~30+k miles
Length of time: built the motor in 2007 4yrs
Driving style: It was my daily driver untill i retired it and sold it to Garm.
MISC: rev limit 7500

monchyxb

05-14-2011, 03:18 PM

Thx for contributing:burnrubber:
Just thought about this but shouldn't you be putting out more power than that @10psi? I mean you turbo is bigger after all and has a higher cfm. Maybe it the tune?

I really don't know, but the turbo is not that big.. I mean the max hp it gives is 250-260 +~. the tune has always been a problem, when I go WOT it leans and then reajusts and goes rich. maybe that affects the power. I'll take it to the dyno to see for real!:burnrubber:

turboecho2005

05-16-2011, 05:42 PM

guys the biggest reason of engine fails is an improper tune. no matter how well you build your motor a bad tune will kill it in a hart bet.

You have it right on. I am 11.1:1 compression running 8.5psi but a rock solid tune. weeks it had spent on the dyno to make sure it can take the abuse every day with that compression. Turbo is a GT2871R

Yoda

05-16-2011, 09:44 PM

Is that on a built engine or stock? 11.1:1 and pushing 8.5... You must have some magic elixir or something if it's still stock. What car is this btw?

turboecho2005

05-17-2011, 01:19 AM

Is that on a built engine or stock? 11.1:1 and pushing 8.5... You must have some magic elixir or something if it's still stock. What car is this btw?

Its my 4AGE 20v blacktop motor. Internals are bone stock.

Yoda

05-17-2011, 01:29 AM

standalone management?

turboecho2005

05-17-2011, 02:08 PM

standalone management?

yes. megasquirt

why?

05-18-2011, 01:25 AM

look at his sig. Twin engines? I'd love to see that thing at the drag strip.

Mister Z

05-24-2011, 02:43 AM

Was wondering the guys who posted that there using 1zz or 2az injectors, what size? or are these stock 1zz/2az injectors or upgraded versions?

monchyxb

05-25-2011, 01:49 AM

Was wondering the guys who posted that there using 1zz or 2az injectors, what size? or are these stock 1zz/2az injectors or upgraded versions?

The 2AZ injectors are stock injectors and the size is 370cc.

Yoda

07-18-2011, 08:34 PM

Still at 10psi and going strong.

Blown_xa

07-19-2011, 10:59 PM

This month marks 2 years the Ptuning spec ss block has been in my car... it has been raced since the 1st weekend and driven every day. Now running 27psi as of last week.

Bluevitz-rs

07-20-2011, 07:09 PM

27 psi! What are you running diesel in that thing now LMAO

Blown_xa

07-20-2011, 11:43 PM

27 psi! What are you running diesel in that thing now LMAO

lol. dont tractor pull tractors run like 100psi?

Still pump gas w/wmi. We are doing an e85 test tune next week. Another note, took car to local 1/8 mile today... traps 94mph in the 1/8 so my new quarter time should be 12.0 @ 119. Ill confirm soon enough.

Bluevitz-rs

07-20-2011, 11:47 PM

that's just re-donk-you-luss

pimp my yaris

07-21-2011, 09:36 PM

9psi waiting for cooler weather for a dyno run. Aem fic w/2az injectors and 255lph pump. Boosted for 10 months now

Focus_Sh1ft

07-22-2011, 12:18 AM

27 psi is just plain filthy lol....

Yoda

09-15-2011, 11:53 PM

Might have finally broke it @12 psi spike. Went to go in third and missed, loud bang and felt like i hit a wall. Vacuum is bouncing around and i can hear some grinding. Gonna check it out some more in the days time. Might just have a small vacuum leak. Gonna get a compression test also to see where i am at after all this time.
I have been beating it into the ground for the last 3 months while I saved up 4k for a rebuild. I think it might still not be enough sigh...

Bluevitz-rs

09-16-2011, 12:01 AM

Ooooooo that sucks.

ok you missed like it didn't go into gear or missed like you got it into gear with a whole lot of grinding?

Yoda

09-16-2011, 11:10 AM

So good news 175 all across n this is me running it at 10psi hard. Gotta check to see if the turbo is still good tho. Need oil catch can and a retune and I will see what new numbers I will have for u guys. I am way over due for a clutch upgrade also. Can't shift into third if I am pushing it. Hoping that it just needs a flush and not the same problem that I had last time. O and Pimp get you car on a Dyno man!

Focus_Sh1ft

09-17-2011, 12:33 PM

Healthy compression after 3 months of beating on it at 10 psi? That's great news man... Maybe 10 psi will become the new 8 psi? :biggrin:

Seriously though, I think I speak for everyone when I say I appreciate what you're doing with your car. This will give us great information on how much a 1NZ can take before it finally craps out.

pimp my yaris

09-18-2011, 09:53 AM

I had some problems with the car dying out when going to neutral from high boost after the blow of valve pops. I am working on a recirculating hose for blow off gases. So far it is working good. Just need to improve the design a little. The colder weather is giving me some stout power. Much better then the 90 degree shit.

Parmas

09-19-2011, 06:29 AM

Forgot to post on here my new tune:

We got the 1NZFE running 211Bhp @ 6500rpm / 184Torque @ 4850rpm @ 9psi on a GT2560R.

To refresh memory stock: head bolts / OEM gasket / Complete OEM head (no porting)

Presently I am re-wiring the AEM boostsolenoid to the Haltech Ecu and pump it up till 14psi boost on pump gas + octane booster.

ecc_33

09-30-2011, 09:04 PM

27 psi! What are you running diesel in that thing now LMAO

Easy lol... Thats all i know....My truck was 720 at the wheels last dyno that was on...I just wish the 11.94 was a little lower but 8 bent rods changed my tone. Now time for a built engine with that big single charger hummin on top:thumbup:

Yoda

01-21-2012, 07:14 PM

Had a rough idle problem for the last month and couldn't figure it out. Tried everything now I am looking at the engine. Will post result later on.

Yoda

01-21-2012, 07:59 PM

So hears the run down
Compression:

Cyl1 145
Cyl2 165
Cyl3 170
Cyl4 185

Cause was burnt exhaust valve:rolleyes:
Injector on cyl1 was dirty and it was runnin a bit lean burnt up the valve.
So now its really time for a rebuild :biggrin:.

Need to source an engine for a good price. <<<< Garm...Carlos...

Plans are to get to 250whp.Still sitting on that 4k to get things started. Need help getting my parts list together.
Now its time for input I did my part with logging the info.:thumbsup:

cali yaris

01-21-2012, 10:16 PM

I have a complete and a short block in stock. :biggrin:

TURBO YARIS

01-21-2012, 11:40 PM

Yoda

01-23-2012, 07:07 AM

Check your pms. Just looking for a engine builder in Florida to do the work now

Blown_xa

01-24-2012, 10:10 AM

Check your pms. Just looking for a engine builder in Florida to do the work now

Most machine shops haven't built or machined a 1nz.... The line bore tool may have to be made, and the customer is going to pay for it. Buy a block built already, trust me it will be worth it in the long run and cost effectiveness. 2 people already said they carry them, and make it a 3rd.... We have a block too.

pimp my yaris

01-25-2012, 07:21 PM

Do it. More is good.

Yoda

01-27-2012, 06:58 PM

It's going down just working out some figures.

pimp my yaris

02-12-2012, 03:49 AM

I have heard about two cars with engine failures from running lean now. One from piston rings burning up and now a exhaust valve burnt. I am running 2azfe injectors and a very loud 255lph pump. I am running 11 to 11.5/1 afr at full throttle and its very stable. I cruise at about 13/1afr to keep it rich and running cool. I want to hear the horsepower level that will send one off those tiny stock rods through the side of my block:confused: Has anyone run into this yet? I think I am getting close to the threshold, but not sure. I am amazed how much this thing can handle so far. I said I would leave it at 5psi when I started, but its like a drug. Now I am at 10Psi and thinking about 12 when the weather gets warm again. :eyebulge:

cali yaris

02-12-2012, 06:27 PM

^ hehe, that sounds familiar. I thought I'd stop at an intake and exhaust. :-o

a very loud 255lph pump

Yes it is. Is yours in the tank?

Yoda

02-13-2012, 01:33 AM

pimp my yaris

02-16-2012, 08:16 AM

^ hehe, that sounds familiar. I thought I'd stop at an intake and exhaust. :-o

Yes it is. Is yours in the tank?

Yes, in the tank. Still runing stock fuel line and rail so far.

maxthehax

02-16-2012, 06:03 PM

-Engine: Complete Stock @195,000kms
-F/I: Garrett GT1548 (too small), waiting for GT2252
-Boost: 8psi gonna switch to 6psi spring
-WHP: n/a
-Management: AEM FIc
-Fuel upgrade: 370cc Deathswerks injectors
-Fuel: 91 Ultramar
-Misc: 6 speed tranny
Miles on Boost: Around 18,000kms
Length of time: Around 6 months
Driving style: daily driven, 2 hours a day only highway.

Trying my best to keep the engine alive, Im not an animal with my cars :P

Changed 2 times turbo. 2xGT1548, first time I didnt had chance to see that it was way to small for my engine, I also had internal wastegate issue at this time. Now I am on the second GT1548 with a Tial external wastegate 38mm. Turbo is way to small creating so much backpressure at 4,000rpm that no more air enter the intake.

Maybe not best place to ask my question but I have one :P

I am not planning going further into engine build. I want to keep it stock, and be able to swap it at any time for another one because I do a lot of mileage. I am very satisfied tough.
1.I was wondering how much my stock fuel rail,pump and reg can stand without problem. Only rail available is the OBX one, I even own it, but find what? OBX it so scrap that after 4 times trying install there is no way to not leak. So I dont have anymore choice to stay stock.

cali yaris

02-16-2012, 07:01 PM

I know we offer a fuel rail, might be Golden Eagle (very good brand).

pimp my yaris

02-16-2012, 08:42 PM

I am still using the stock fuel rail and stock fuel line and pick up assembly in the tank. With some modification I fit a longer 255lph pump into the pick up assembly.

maxthehax

02-16-2012, 10:58 PM

I am still using the stock fuel rail and stock fuel line and pick up assembly in the tank. With some modification I fit a longer 255lph pump into the pick up assembly.

So if Im right you say that you kept the whole setup except the fuel pump itself. I though that changing fuel pump for a walbro would require a "with return" type fuel system, so it mean New Fuel Reg and a Fitting in fuel rail. Correct me if Im wrong :)

I know we offer a fuel rail, might be Golden Eagle (very good brand).
Yes? So you have a fuel rail listed to fit my 1nz without modification, brand named Gold Eagle? What kind of price? The major problem with OBX rail (first I dont like the brand) is that completly installed, the location of the new rail doesnt sit directly in the good position. So my injectors are not well "seated" in, bolts tight you can easely play with the injectors. He looks like 1/4inch away from good position in the rail. A fuel rail is fairly simple to install, when getting the stock back on you really feel the injectors seat into the rail as you tight up the bolts.

pimp my yaris

02-18-2012, 10:38 AM

This is my stock pick up and regulator with 255lph pump. It may not look perfect but it works.

cali yaris

02-18-2012, 01:27 PM

Yes? So you have a fuel rail listed to fit my 1nz without modification, brand named Gold Eagle? What kind of price?

best to email sales.microimage@gmail.com

I got us off topic, I'm afraid :frown:

Blown_xa

02-18-2012, 07:10 PM

So if Im right you say that you kept the whole setup except the fuel pump itself. I though that changing fuel pump for a walbro would require a "with return" type fuel system, so it mean New Fuel Reg and a Fitting in fuel rail. Correct me if Im wrong :)

Yes? So you have a fuel rail listed to fit my 1nz without modification, brand named Gold Eagle? What kind of price? The major problem with OBX rail (first I dont like the brand) is that completly installed, the location of the new rail doesnt sit directly in the good position. So my injectors are not well "seated" in, bolts tight you can easely play with the injectors. He looks like 1/4inch away from good position in the rail. A fuel rail is fairly simple to install, when getting the stock back on you really feel the injectors seat into the rail as you tight up the bolts.
Make sure you use brand new injector seat cushions, that will help. Another trick is to stretch an o ring around the inlet neck of injector ( same size o ring which is already on injector) so the rail puts more downward pressure onto them. This prevents blowing the cushion up when running boost.

Yoda

03-16-2012, 04:01 PM

fnkngrv

03-16-2012, 05:14 PM

You really need to check out CTScott's fuel system analysis. So far he is being able to really dispel some base assumptions on the Yaris fuel system as well as FS req for certain HP ranges.

Blown_xa

03-17-2012, 12:32 AM

Thinking about ordering the GT2860RS. But its $1k :( Clutch ordered, fuel pump, rods and pistons and engine off to machine shop. Now I need injectors. What size you think for my goal with a little flex room? O and also might need a new fuel rail for the return system. Garm :)

I have built an xB with the GT2860rs, nice turbo. I will tell you though, that the t3 60 trim I am using produces near exact results ( spool and power curve). The t3 60 trim is about $600.