Easy mod for 5 spd. LBs starting/shifting.

[bB2NER]

I always hated how you had to push the clutch ALL the way to the floor to start it. I came up with a cheap easy fix for this issue.
I took a small 1" square piece of high dense foam (the kind that has smooth finish on the outside) and using some red 3M molding tape attatched it to the tab on the clutch lever where it contacts the switch. It gives enough so if you do push it to the floor it won't restrict pedal movement but contacts the switch earlier making it easier to start.

I also adjusted the push rod so the clutch doesn't grab so close to the floor.
It takes a 14mm and 13mm wrench and some small vise grips.
Use the 14mm wrench to hold the switch and the 13mm to loosen the locknut. With the locknut loose you can unscrew the pushrod 1 1/2 turns (making it slightly longer). I used visegrip to turn the rod cause it was kinda hard to do it by hand. Then retighten the locknut and you are done.
The clutch now grabs later and shifts much easier and more normal.

[cali yaris]

^ I disable that clutch switch with every manual car I buy. Just jumper it.

You should post pictures. :thumbsup:

[bB2NER]

I'll try and post a pic later on. It's so tight up in there.:iono:
I didn't want to disable it for safety. Just make it so you only push the clutch slightly past halfway to start. Enough so the car doesn't lurch forward when in gear.:biggrin:

[yaris2010RS]

i personally never leave my car in gear and that was the first mod i did, i used ducktape to hold down the switch.

Garm, really just a jumper will work? for some reason i was under the impression it was a "smart" sensor and told the car if it was bipassed or not

[AppleJacks716]

I always hated how you had to push the clutch ALL the way to the floor to start it. I came up with a cheap easy fix for this issue.
I took a small 1" square piece of high dense foam (the kind that has smooth finish on the outside) and using some red 3M molding tape attatched it to the tab on the clutch lever where it contacts the switch. It gives enough so if you do push it to the floor it won't restrict pedal movement but contacts the switch earlier making it easier to start.

I also adjusted the push rod so the clutch doesn't grab so close to the floor.
It takes a 14mm and 13mm wrench and some small vise grips.
Use the 14mm wrench to hold the switch and the 13mm to loosen the locknut. With the locknut loose you can unscrew the pushrod 1 1/2 turns (making it slightly longer). I used visegrip to turn the rod cause it was kinda hard to do it by hand. Then retighten the locknut and you are done.
The clutch now grabs later and shifts much easier and more normal.

Really? I mean really? Foam between the pedal and switch? That doesn't make you the least bit uncomfortable driving knowing you shoved something between the pedal and the switch? Why would you get a manual car if you don't want to fully use the clutch? Electronically disabling the clutch is much safer.

[bB2NER]

Really? I mean really? Foam between the pedal and switch? That doesn't make you the least bit uncomfortable driving knowing you shoved something between the pedal and the switch? Why would you get a manual car if you don't want to fully use the clutch? Electronically disabling the clutch is much safer.It's FOAM and fully compresses when you push the pedal to the floor. The clutch IS fully functional still.
Electronically disableing the switch completely is a law suit waiting to happen. If someone were to drive the car not knowing the switch isn't there and they hit the key with it in gear and the car lurches and hits another car. Then what?:eek:

[Bluevitz-rs]

Just make sure you still have enough freeplay when the clutch is up. There should be another stopper at the top for that. Or you could risk cooking the through out bearing.

[bB2NER]

How is the freeplay measured exactly? Thanks

The slave cylinder seems to re adjust the freeplay for the throwout bearing by itself.

[Bluevitz-rs]

there should be a few MM of freeplay when the clutch is at the top before it gets harder to push by hand. Like a loose spot at the very top.

[bB2NER]

there should be a few MM of freeplay when the clutch is at the top before it gets harder to push by hand. Like a loose spot at the very top.Thanks, I'll check it out before I drive it again.

[AppleJacks716]

If someone were to drive the car not knowing the switch isn't there and they hit the key with it in gear and the car lurches and hits another car. Then what?:eek:

You are probably parked too close to the car in front of you.

Both void any warranty, if you have it, and is just catering to lazy people who should have bought an automatic.

[cali yaris]

1. Try starting the car with the clutch switch disabled and the e-brake on. The car doesn't move, guys.

Electronically disableing the switch completely is a law suit waiting to happen.

Only if you let other people drive your car. I don't. Besides, everyone is already trained to depress the clutch when they start a manual.

I'm confused now. Didn't you say this:

Electronically disabling the clutch is much safer.

Then this?

Both void any warranty, if you have it, and is just catering to lazy people who should have bought an automatic.

[tk-421]

I find that the clutch pedal is one of the weaker aspects of the Yaris, so anything that can help with that has my attention.

@bB2NER (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/member.php?u=1601): I like your idea of lengthening the pushrod... I would really appreciate some pics of the process to see if I can do this myself or not... TIA