View Full Version : New Sound System
eXiilez
04-30-2011, 09:18 AM
I plan to purchase a new sound system for the car. Right now it's just the stock speakers and head unit.
Before I went ahead and bought anything, I thought I would post here to get some opinions on the speakers/sub etc.
So let me know what you think.
Speakers Front
http://www.fusionelectronics.com/car/products/speakers-powerplant/powerplant-6.5-component-speaker-system
Speakers Rear
http://www.fusionelectronics.com/car/products/speakers-powerplant/powerplant-6x9-2-way-speakers
Sub
http://www.fusionelectronics.com/car/products/active-enclosures-cp-series/cp-dual-12-active-wedge-enclosure
I haven't been able to find a head unit for the car that'll fit. And I don't want to buy something on the change that it wont fit.
So if anyone knows some good head units out there that fit my 06 Yaris let me know. And let me know what you think of the set up.
sqcomp
04-30-2011, 10:11 PM
Why Fuzion?
eXiilez
05-01-2011, 12:47 AM
Well, I have never really put a new sound system in any of my cars before. I have a couple mates who use it, so I just assumed it was a brand that people used. Maybe I should go with something like Clarion, Pioneer, Alpine etc?
sickpuppy1
05-01-2011, 01:53 AM
I really like my Polk Audio components. But depending on your budget, SQ has some Ideas on good stuff too for sure!
eXiilez
05-01-2011, 04:39 AM
I don't have a minimum/maximum budget at all. So I'm open for suggestions for some great sound systems.
RawrDaddy
05-01-2011, 11:06 AM
I don't have a minimum/maximum budget at all. So I'm open for suggestions for some great sound systems.
Sound Quality or SPL/Loudness?
and just about EVERY head unit could be made to fit the yaris.
always do a quick search of the forums. theres a stickied thread showcasing everyones aftermarket head units - as well as countless other post of peoples experiences with head units.
first we would need to know what would you want out of the head unit - as well as your speaker set up.
we could just tell you some of the best subs and speakers available and you could spend $3000 on the setup....
mazilla
05-01-2011, 11:48 AM
I would be thinking lightweight with clean sounds...I don't see a yaris lugging around a couple hundred pounds of stereo equipment as a benefit.
Upgrade the head unit to an indash TV, replace the stock speakers(maybe run an amp to them,but it's not necessary) and add a small sub(10" should do nicely).
Edited:quote deleted, not sure how I quoted that other user....
TOLMACH
05-01-2011, 01:56 PM
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_10648_Alpine-SPX-17PRO.html
amazing sound for the price
.Kevin.
05-01-2011, 02:49 PM
Import subs, I got a flex 10' UK set up that pounds hard.
sqcomp
05-01-2011, 06:28 PM
You could go all out with these:
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/hybridaudio-legatiapro_l1-preto-cobre-par.jpg
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/hybridaudio-legatia_l6_specialedition-par.jpg
You'd talk with Marc Rushton in Sunbury, Victoria...
http://srv1.tpimg.ch/productImage.php?productID=213711&userImage=0&number=0&size=lg&downsize=true
http://www.upgarage.com/upgarage/gazou/0907/0907162/0907162005754/0907162005754s0.jpg
http://www.ralphs.ca/product_images/t/598/BitOne__60010_zoom.gif
If I was putting together a two way pure SQ system, this is probably what I'd come up with. I'm there already with the speakers and processing.
TOLMACH
05-02-2011, 09:34 PM
You could go all out with these:
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/hybridaudio-legatiapro_l1-preto-cobre-par.jpg
http://www.hybrid-audio.com/hybridaudio-legatia_l6_specialedition-par.jpg
You'd talk with Marc Rushton in Sunbury, Victoria...
http://srv1.tpimg.ch/productImage.php?productID=213711&userImage=0&number=0&size=lg&downsize=true
http://www.upgarage.com/upgarage/gazou/0907/0907162/0907162005754/0907162005754s0.jpg
http://www.ralphs.ca/product_images/t/598/BitOne__60010_zoom.gif
If I was putting together a two way pure SQ system, this is probably what I'd come up with. I'm there already with the speakers and processing.
I believe Denon DCT-1 deserves passive network (I have one and I love it.. trying to built a 3way passive network at the moment). If decent passive network not feasible I would go for inexpensive HU with optical output and good processor
ALso heard lots of really nice thigs from people whose opinion I trust on audison thesis midranges and twitters (thesis voce and vilolino) - would make sense to buy all three - they seem to match each very nicely
Anyways, not sure it is approprite for someone looking at fusion to buy expensive components - one must really understand what he needs otherwise might not work for him
sqcomp
05-02-2011, 09:45 PM
I don't have a minimum/maximum budget at all. So I'm open for suggestions for some great sound systems.
"depending on your budget, SQ has some Ideas on good stuff too for sure!"
That's why I posted that...didn't know I had to justify. :iono:
My reasoning for suggesting an active network is because...well...it's better. You have a huge range of flexibility versus passives. You can change anything at any time...settings, speakers, amplifiers, source units...and not have to re work the passive network.
That being said, passives are a thing of beauty.
http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=909
http://www.buwaldahybrids.com/phpBB3/download/file.php?id=911&t=1
TOLMACH
05-03-2011, 10:35 AM
"better" really depends on how you define it )) .. brings some problems with it ((
sqcomp
05-03-2011, 12:32 PM
Depending how we define it? Sure. Active crossovers are generally more expensive.
I'd throw this at you though...
Can you go from a butterworth or linkwitz up to a 48dB slope on any of your speakers on any of 6 bands used? Oh that includes full range, low pass, band pass, or high pass on any of those bands, phase control. I can't stop there, how about 1/3rd octave control on ALL speakers used, time alignment, output control, optical/tosslink input and output...all in one 6"x8" chassis that is controlled at my fingertips. I can change any of these settings within two minutes if not quicker. The 112dB S/N doesn't hurt anything either.
Now...tell me how a passive is better? It's much less flexible. It is however a unique snapshot into how one tunes his or her system.
TOLMACH
05-10-2011, 07:42 AM
Depending how we define it? Sure. Active crossovers are generally more expensive.
I'd throw this at you though...
Can you go from a butterworth or linkwitz up to a 48dB slope on any of your speakers on any of 6 bands used? Oh that includes full range, low pass, band pass, or high pass on any of those bands, phase control. I can't stop there, how about 1/3rd octave control on ALL speakers used, time alignment, output control, optical/tosslink input and output...all in one 6"x8" chassis that is controlled at my fingertips. I can change any of these settings within two minutes if not quicker. The 112dB S/N doesn't hurt anything either.
Now...tell me how a passive is better? It's much less flexible. It is however a unique snapshot into how one tunes his or her system.
I was following your philosophy some five years ago when I built my first SQ system using HX-D2 (aka drz9255) headunit.. (however, even at that time I can not think of something that would force me use 8order crossovers :wink:)
Somehow now I prefer good sound and bad stage to awesome stage and not-so-good sound (due to time alignment) i.e. passive networks is my choice now..
I do agree though it is less flexible..
I am not trying to argue active vs passive stuff as it is useless.. my point is simple - there is hardly such thing as "better" or "best" in car audio.. This refers to everything: HUs, speakers, amps, subs, etc.
sqcomp
05-10-2011, 09:20 AM
If one has a bad sound DUE to time alignment...that person needs to swallow the end of a revolver. It's WAAAAY too simple to solve. T/A and crossover slopes are directly connected.
I might understand if you said bad stage due to T/A. Otherwise, the person messing with T/A is a drooling knuckle dragger that can't spend a few hours to play with the settings.
I can think of one "simple" thing that one could use a 48dB slope on...a low pass midrange taken to the extreme separated from the mid bass by several feet and played off axis.
Now when you say time alignment are you talking the physical PLD's or the adjustments made on the signal?
TOLMACH
05-10-2011, 09:45 AM
time adjustment to the signal
Strongly disagree re "play for a few hours".. I know lots of people playing with settings for weeks with nice components the result still being not too good (regretfully me inclusive).. nice stage, nice tonal accuracy but completely dead sound (( It seems easy but definitely is not easy. I know, though, couple system that sound GREAT (that I like) made by real professionals..
Due to above I usually encourage beginners to start with predictable things like: buy good amp, buy good speakers, buy good HU, etc. use passive network and enjoy the music
sqcomp
05-11-2011, 06:40 AM
I don't know what to say without being offensive to the people you know that play with the signal for weeks and not being able to get a good sound. It's their limitation. A passive crossover system won't help a bad sound over an active system...The passive crossover is SO limited.
I completely concur with buying good equipment, you can use the passives and forget it. Hand me ANY car you're working with, the passives and an active processor and I can show your ears the difference. There's too much one is able to do NOT to be able to fix any "dead sound" issues with an active versus passive. In my instance, I've got great equipment, and world beating flexibility. I don't limit myself to one sound profile. I can and have changed the sound with a couple flips of the stereo knobs that have improved the stage and sound from the previous set. I'm not limited to the one setting that a passive confines one with.
If we're simply placing a passive into the signal chain, I can easily (yes EASILY) recreate that exact same network with the active processor. T/A would really have nothing to do with it unless your speakers are already a little off due to whatever reason. The passive crossover won't magically fix bad sound. That's why T/A there...to adjust for odd or tweaky placements.
If you have dead sound due to time alignment, reset it and do it over because you've screwed something up. It's be folly to throw away more flexibility away simply because one is too thick-headed to figure it out.
For me it's like going from flying a modern airplane back to a WW I airplane.
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