Hatchback Trunk Cylinders

[Betrivent]

Anybody find theirs doesn't lift the trunk all the way up anymore? And if you did what did you do to fix it short of buying a new one? They seem to be well over a hundred dollars EACH.

[Bluevitz-rs]

try car quest or crappy tire

[Betrivent]

For.. what? New ones?

[Bluevitz-rs]

yeah... but is it that the won't hold the hatch up, or just that they don't lift it on their own anymore. Cuz mine never really lifted the hatch much past half way unless it's really hot out, but the never dropped once pushed up.

[CTScott]

The Yaris spring shocks are 6" stroke, 17" extended mounting center line, 80 lb (359N) gas shocks with ball socket ends. Doing a quick web search based on those measurements, I've seen generic replacements for as little as $15 each.

I am tempted to upgrade to 100 lb or 150 lb ones (which are common ratings) too see if it helps with the winter sag. One evening this past Winter In a dark parking lot I whacked my head so hard that I drew blood.

[mazilla]

One evening this past Winter In a dark parking lot I whacked my head so hard that I drew blood.


I did the same thing in my garage the other day because the damned hatch was sitting a little lower than normal(I didn't help it up the last little bit). I didn't draw blood, but it hurt enough that I had to stop what I was doing for a minutes and curse the heavens. Now that I've sound deadened the hatch it's a little heavier, which in turn has made it open even less...

I'd be interested in a part number if you decide to swap in something more powerful, and it works.

[Shinare]

LOL I thought I was the only one that would do something like this! Gave myself a nice little goose egg a while back doing the same thing. I felt a little sheepish... heh

[thebarber]

ya, mine suck in winter, too

had the same issue in my matrix....though i had them replaced under warranty once...

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

The Yaris spring shocks are 6" stroke, 17" extended mounting center line, 80 lb (359N) gas shocks with ball socket ends. Doing a quick web search based on those measurements, I've seen generic replacements for as little as $15 each.

I am tempted to upgrade to 100 lb or 150 lb ones (which are common ratings) too see if it helps with the winter sag. One evening this past Winter In a dark parking lot I whacked my head so hard that I drew blood.

my experience with aftermarket hatch struts has gotten me no where. i had 2 different auto supply stores order me these things with a toyota part number as reference and they were wrong both times.....

[CTScott]

my experience with aftermarket hatch struts has gotten me no where. i had 2 different auto supply stores order me these things with a toyota part number as reference and they were wrong both times.....

I believe that the AP Products 010-170 would be a direct replacement.

This place sells the 010-170 for $18 each:

https://www.makariosrv.com/products/Gas-Charged-Supports-by-AP-Products.html


Here's a pair of 120 lb ones for $30 (and the same vendor also carries 101 and 110 lb ones for the same price):

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320694792170&viewitem=#vi-content

[ROCKLANDTOYOTA]

^^someone should buy these and see if it works.....

[CTScott]

^^someone should buy these and see if it works.....

I just ordered a pair of the 101 lb ones.

[mazilla]

I just ordered a pair of the 101 lb ones.


Sweet.

[Shinare]

two 120 pounders... would that be pretty difficult to close once the hatch was opened?

[CTScott]

two 120 pounders... would that be pretty difficult to close once the hatch was opened?

The pair of 120s might be too much, that's why I ordered the pair of 101s to test. They shipped today by USPS from New York, so they should be in my hands tomorrow or Monday.

I have a spare set of OEM ones from Crashy. I did a test today where I measured the compression force at ambient (72F) and then again after putting one in the freezer for an hour (20F). At 72F the compression force was 80 lbs. At 20F it decreased to 72 lbs.

[Betrivent]

Holy awesomesauce CT. I've been busy the last couple days so I haven't been able to check but I'm eagerly anticipating your results!

[auxmike]

Yeah, I have to push mine up so it opens all the way. Looking forward to the results!

[thepartsmancometh]

Luckily me wife primarily uses the yaris, because I bang my head off the damned thing every time I open it! I have some spare Sienna struts laying around I might try (they were warranty scrap)

[Betrivent]

Any update CT?

[CTScott]

Any update CT?

They haven't arrived yet.

Yesterday though, I was helping enviri wire up one of my Push to Start modules and his xD turn signal mirrors on his 2010 LB and I happened to mention the whole hatch sag issue. He said that he doesn't have the issue, so we compared his hatch to mine. His pops up into the fully open position, where mine slowly moves to about 3/4 of the way up. I realized that mine used to move the way that his does, so just replacing them with the standard would probably be fine, but I will still try the 101's once they arrive.

[Betrivent]

I'll still wait for your results for a better decision.. thanks!

[CTScott]

I received the new 101 lb ones yesterday (8 days from order to receipt). I installed them this morning (it literally takes less than 1 minute per side to replace them). The new ones make a huge difference. The 101 lbs of lift make the hatch pop all of the way open very quickly (to the point where there is a little bounce at the end of travel). I will post a video comparison later, but here's a photo of the new ones vs. the OEM. The shaft is stainless steel on the replacements, whereas it was painted on the OEM ones.

42332

[Betrivent]

Excellent. If they fit then I'll grab a pair for myself
EDIT: I'll wait for a video though- and whether my pack mule in the states is coming up to Canada this weekend so I don't have to pay as much for shipping ;)

[R2D2]

CTScott,

Is it still relatively easy to close the hatch with the beefier cylinders?

Thanks,

R2

[toast]

Is this the right set for the 101 lbs? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320694792160&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Hope so cuz I bought a set today.

[Betrivent]

I believe that is the right set yes. I'm just waiting for CT's video before I buy.

[auxmike]

You just don't want the door to fly open fast enough to eventually tear out the mounts!

[Betrivent]

You just don't want the door to fly open fast enough to eventually tear out the mounts!

Or smash you in the face

[auxmike]

I ordered a set. Heck for under $40 I'll take the gamble. I'm in NY so I had to pay the sales tax and it better not take 8 days in state to ship, I hope! I'll ask CT how you get them off and on..CT?

[auxmike]

Or smash you in the face

Yeah, now I'll have to leap back vs. being hunched over to not get hurt...

[Betrivent]

I'm eagerly anticipating his video.. I hope he took a before and after!

[CTScott]

Here's the video comparison of the work out OEM ones vs. the aftermarket 101s:


http://s372.photobucket.com/albums/oo163/ctscott329/Misc%20Yaris/?action=view&current=YarisHatchbackGasSpringComparison.mp4

[auxmike]

Holy crap! The whole back of the car rises! No more helping up that door anymore. Can't wait to try mine out when they come....
Thanks for coming through with that real pro lookin' vid too!

[CTScott]

In the before video, my hand is cut-off after initially opening the hatch, but each time time there is a pause, I then push the hatch open a bit more.

The new ones are definitely a bit more potent than necessary, but I suspect that after a couple of weeks they will calm down.

[auxmike]

I plan to open the hatch then "follow" the door as it goes up to avoid tearing out the mounts. A guy on here is a courier in the UK I think and did that from opening his hatch so many times daily as part of his deliveries.
Now imagine if you had gotten the even more powerful ones????

[CTScott]

To swap them out:

1. Prop the hatch fully open. I used a fiberglass painter's pole.

42336

2. Using a small flat-blade screwdriver, pry the clip up about 1/8" (you don't need to fully remove the clip).

3. With the clip up, pull the end off of the ball.

4. Do the same on the other end of the gas spring.

5. Pry up the clips on the new one.

6. Slip the bottom onto the ball (the bottom is the larger diameter end).

7. Rotate the top (clockwise) until it lines up with the ball and slip it on.

8. Push the clips back down.

9. Repeat on the other side.

[Betrivent]

Holy crap that snaps up hard. I got myself a pair of 94lbs. I won't have it for at least a week or two, I'll post results when I get them.

[auxmike]

Did'nt know he had 94 pounders. But like CT said, after a while they tend to settle and get more tame and smooth as they go up. CT, any indication as to country of mfg?

[mazilla]

. A guy on here is a courier in the UK I think and did that from opening his hatch so many times daily as part of his deliveries.
Now imagine if you had gotten the even more powerful ones????

I think you'll be fine, my car was a courier vehicle and has more than 450,000 miles on it, there is no sign of damage.

[toast]

Looks good CT. My door is a bit heavier than stock as I did some sound insulating on it Currently I have to push it up to help it along and it will start to come down on its own so I'm hoping the 101's will be just right. Will let you know. Thanks for the great find and video.

[Klink10]

Thanks CT for doing this.

[Bluevitz-rs]

If I'm not mistaken the OEM ones have a damping force at the end to they don't fly open like that, don't they?

Try swapping one of them out to the OEM one and see how it opens. I don't think them flying open to the point of them popping the hatch up is either safe or good for the struts.

[CTScott]

If I'm not mistaken the OEM ones have a damping force at the end to they don't fly open like that, don't they?

Try swapping one of them out to the OEM one and see how it opens. I don't think them flying open to the point of them popping the hatch up is either safe or good for the struts.

The OEM ones are just like the replacements, but have a lower force rating. The bouncing is because they have more lifting force than necessary. I am going to give them a month or so to settle in (with me holding the hatch when opening). If they continue to bounce at that point, I will switch to ones with a closer rating to OEM.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Ok. Because the ones on my '05 slow down the last few inches so you can't pop it up all the way. Our '03 Matrix is the worst though. They're so stiff the last 6 inches of pushing the hatch up I broke one of them off the peg.

[CTScott]

Ok. Because the ones on my '05 slow down the last few inches so you can't pop it up all the way. Our '03 Matrix is the worst though. They're so stiff the last 6 inches of pushing the hatch up I broke one of them off the peg.

The slowing down at the end is the equalization of weight. If the lifting force equals the weight, they will do that rather than snapping up.

[Bluevitz-rs]

even with them off the car they still slow down at the end, well the ones on the matrix anyway.

[CTScott]

even with them off the car they still slow down at the end, well the ones on the matrix anyway.

These did as well before I put them on the car. I think it's just that they open the hatch so quickly that the damping is overcome by the inertia.

[auxmike]

I just got my set, came in 3 days. They work just like CTs. I'm holding the top of the hatch as it goes up because you can actually see the metal the mounts screw into on the car body flex as it snaps up hard. I found the OEM Stabilus shocks have a cover where the rod meets the body of the shock, the Ebay ones don't and you just see rubber washers. Also, the OEMs have no play in the shock , the Ebays wobble in the center between the gas cylinder and the silver rod.
I'm guessing these are from China, whereas the OEMs are Mexico or mabye even good ol' Japan.
We'll see how they hold up in winter. I'm saving the old ones, just in case.....
Install is easy and I balanced the hatch with my head as I did one side at a time. These things arrived not in a box , but bubble wrap tube! Also, no instructions either.
For the price, well worth it.
Thanks Ct for shining the light on this for us! :drinking:

[mazilla]

I ordered the 90lb shocks two days ago....

[ljming99]

I cant imagine how the boot lid would shoot upwards if it was a carbon fibre lid. Probably enuff "smack" to be sent to the ER =P

[auxmike]

I think it would mortally damage a CF hatch judging how the sheet steel cringes at the rebound.

[ljming99]

Mine is close to 5 years soon and the shocks are weak to the point where i pretty much have to use my hand to push it past mid way so that it is able to hold on its own.

I would prefer stock replacement as i keeping the option of changing to CF open.

[mazilla]

Mine is close to 5 years soon and the shocks are weak to the point where i pretty much have to use my hand to push it past mid way so that it is able to hold on its own.

I would prefer stock replacement as i keeping the option of changing to CF open.


I wonder if the worn OEM's would be perfect for the reduced weight CF hatch?

[toast]

OK... I got my 101# struts installed today and even with my heavy insulated hatch lid that sucker flies up fast and bounces hard. A bit too much for my taste so I took one of the new ones off and replaced it with one of the old weaker ones. So with one 101# and one old tired lift the hatch raises up on it's own very smoothly all the way to the top with no bounce. I'm thinking a set in the mid 90# range would be perfect.

[mazilla]

I got the 90#'s in today, did the swap...click the pic for the video.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320694806817&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT


http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb230/mr-mazilla/th_6192011080.jpg (http://s205.photobucket.com/albums/bb230/mr-mazilla/?action=view&current=6192011080.mp4)

[Betrivent]

Those look much more normal!

[auxmike]

[QUOTE=mazilla;588410]I got the 90#'s in today, did the swap...click the pic for the video.

Is that a Yaris? Almost looks like a Scion Xd or something else?:iono:

[mazilla]

[QUOTE=mazilla;588410]I got the 90#'s in today, did the swap...click the pic for the video.

Is that a Yaris? Almost looks like a Scion Xd or something else?:iono:


It's the same 07' Yaris in my avatar.

[Betrivent]

I installed my 94s yesterday. Took literally 60 seconds each, most of which was spent trying to pry the original clips off the stock shocks so I can remove them. These new ones just pop on, easiest thing ever!

[dzcab]

Can anyone give me the sellers that you uses from EBay cause i ordered a set from makarios RV and the shipment is still pending and I need to send to PR ASAP. Or if someone knows the part number that will help.

[Betrivent]

I can't actually find it anymore

[CTScott]

Can anyone give me the sellers that you uses from EBay cause i ordered a set from makarios RV and the shipment is still pending and I need to send to PR ASAP. Or if someone knows the part number that will help.

I have had the eBay ones on my car for a while now and they still are a bit more than ideal. I would stick with ones that are rated as direct replacements, like these ($52 for a set from Amazon):


http://www.amazon.com/Lift-Supports-TOYOTA-YARIS-2006/dp/B0044EKBMK

[mazilla]

The 90lb Ebay shocks work perfectly. When I get to my computer I'll take a look and see if I can get the sellers info.

[dzcab]

I ordered the makarios one from AP Products and they fit but don't close hatch. Anyone have the link to the eBay ones. I have searched all over eBay and can't find. I need to send some ASAP, or a part number from Toyota.

[CTScott]

I ordered the makarios one from AP Products and they fit but don't close hatch. Anyone have the link to the eBay ones. I have searched all over eBay and can't find. I need to send some ASAP, or a part number from Toyota.

What do you mean by "don't close hatch"?


The ebay listing is gone for the ones that I purchased.

The genuine Toyota ones are:

Without rear wiper:
Right: 68950-0W391
Left: 68960-0W391

With rear wiper:
Right: 68950-0D022
Left: 68960-0D012

[mazilla]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-CAMPER-SHELL-CAP-TOPPER-SNUGTOP-STRUTS-REP-17-90-LB-?cmd=ViewItem&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3D LVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D3427895315616465531&_trksid=p5197.m7&item=320694785221


http://myworld.ebay.com/sheng2000/

[dzcab]

[QUOTE=CTScott;609075]What do you mean by "don't close hatch"?

I ordered the ones that were thought to fit from makarios and they strut itself is about .5 inches longer than oem one and when u try to close the tailgate only goes down about 3/4 but wont fully close all way down.

[CTScott]

[QUOTE=CTScott;609075]What do you mean by "don't close hatch"?

I ordered the ones that were thought to fit from makarios and they strut itself is about .5 inches longer than oem one and when u try to close the tailgate only goes down about 3/4 but wont fully close all way down.

Got it. Which model number did you order from them?

[Redbat01]

Success story: I own a 2008 Yaris 3-door hatchback. This morning, I replaced the hatch struts. It was a simple job and the new struts fit perfectly and work fine. It was about 40 degrees Fahrenheit outside when I installed them.

Brand Name: Columbia Struts
Columbia Part Number: CS1720-90
Rod & Tube Size: 8MM x 18MM
Extended Length: 17.20 inches
Minimum Stroke: 7 inches
Force in Pounds: 90 lb
Purchased from: "strut-your-stuff-here" on EBay
Price for two struts, including shipping: $35.88

My thanks to CTScott and everybody else who wrote about their experience with hatchback struts. Your advice saved me the cost of buying the struts from the dealer.

[watersoilair]

This happens with my hatch too. I have to push the hatch up, otherwise I'll hit my head...done that a few times sadly.

[mazilla]

My ebay struts are still perfect, and I use the hatch several times(possibly a dozen+) per day M-F...haven't hit my head since I posted about it.

[GrayYaris]

2014 update. I looked around a few places and I found these on Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HCTFI1S/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


If I remember correctly, they are cheaper on Amazon than on Lift Supports Depot's actual site. It is about 30-40 degrees Fahrenheit here and they are working fine. Hopefully they last a while. Before I got them, I had to hold my hatch up as it would slam shut otherwise.

[frambach]

I (like everyone else) has the sagging hatch problem too. On a lowered car, I find it's quite easy to bump my head unless I take the time an manually push the hatch up and help it all the way to the stopping point.

Thanks to everyone for posting their findings, part numbers, and videos. All your work is appreciated.

[ezhacker1]

I just installed 90# struts. Its much much better than the 5 year old stock ones. I have no idea if those went bad, or its always been like that, cuz of the extra weight in hatch from sound deadening material.

After playing with the hatch a bit, i want to go with 100#, because it still cant push the sound deadened hatch up smoothly without a little tug at the start (after pushing the lock button). I dont have the bounce that others have posted. Would the iQ hatch popper mod be a solution, the thrusters would push it first then the struts take over?

[sven337]

Necroing this thread - I changed the cylinders for new ones that were sold as compatible. Their ejection force didn't seem to be off the charts, at least for a few months the hatch opened *normally* again.
But yesterday, a weld point broke.

https://i.postimg.cc/hjkVDTWL/IMG-1460.jpg
The part with the round nipple attaches to the cylinder, and it is welded in two points to the hatch, one of them broke and tore the sheet metal a little.

I'm looking for ways to fix that. I'll call the body shops around here tomorrow, but I fear they'll just tell me to replace the hatch, and that would be a waste.

Any ideas?

[WeeYari]

https://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39215&highlight=Hatch+strut

Look to the second half of thread where fix was achieved with rivnuts.