FlexSeal as sound deadening?

[Shinare]

I just saw a commercial for "FlexSeal" on the TV and was wondering if this would be something a cheapass could use in leu of "dynamat" or b-quiet type of stuff? Anyone have any thoughts on this stuff? Heres the link to the commercial:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwU8JObQMXc

[mazilla]

Looks similar to the stuff I used...


http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34728

[Shinare]

hehOK, I'll just try the "peel and stick" from lowes.

[mazilla]

Be sure you use the "extreme environment" version of the tape, it's much thinner and sticks perfectly in the curves. I made the mistake of trying the really thick stuff(as a first coat) and it would not hold to the contours, it works fine on top of the base of the thinner tape.

[derickveliz2]

Depending on what you want, kill road noise or improve the sound of your stereo system.

If one, you will need to think of Noise Barrier

If 2, just to kill the reverberation on metal.

Deadening it's not cheap, that's a fact.

Worth it... Yes.

D.

[mazilla]

Depending on what you want, kill road noise or improve the sound of your stereo system.

If one, you will need to think of Noise Barrier

If 2, just to kill the reverberation on metal.

Deadening it's not cheap, that's a fact.

Worth it... Yes.

D.


I can't tell the difference between my technique and the same vehicle with Dynamat. It's quieter inside and the stereo is much improved...and it's cheap. I don't know what else there is besides Dynamat to compare it to(I've never dealt with anything else).

[derickveliz2]

I don't know what else there is besides Dynamat to compare it to(I've never dealt with anything else).

I know what I'm going to suggest it's not cheap but here we go any way...

-On metal CLD Tiles to cover 25% of the flat areas "This would take care of the resonances - is just a slightly catchy name for 6” X 10” pieces of constrained layer damper – what we’ve traditionally called sound deadener. If you’ve been doing any research, you have probably come across the usual arguments: “Buy the good stuff and cover everything” or “Buy the cheap stuff and cover everything with multiple layers.

The usual arguments miss the point. Products like this are vibration dampers. Their only purpose is to control resonance in a vehicle’s panels. Controlling resonance is the absolutely critical first step in any sound deadening project, but more isn’t better and trying to use a CLD to block sound is too expensive, too labor intensive and makes it unnecessarily difficult to do future vehicle maintenance. The old adage about using the right tool for the job has never been truer.

-One layer of 1/4" CCF (Closed Cell Faom) is the ideal decoupler for barriers and trim panels in a motor vehicle. It will also absorb some very high frequency noise, but let’s not get carried away with that aspect of its use.

When you want to block noise, you need a massive barrier like Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier. For a barrier to work well, it should be floated above the substrate to which it is attached. If the substrate has any residual resonance after treating it with CLD Tiles, using CCF as a cushion will stop the resonance from exciting the barrier material. It also creates a more complex path for the sound to travel through, further increasing the effectiveness of the barrier.

When trim panels buzz or rattle, lining them with CCF will isolate them from whatever they are rattling against. Problem solved.

-MLV (mass loaded vinyl)
Once you've applied CLD Tiles, turn your attention to blocking noise. Controlling panel resonance is an essential step to prevent transmission of noise, but you need to block noise at the point of entry to achieve the kind of quiet ride we all want.

Many of us have tried following the old way of sound deadening a car - piling on layer after layer of vibration damper. The doors close with a satisfying "thunk" and the car sounds completely dead when you tap on its panels, but most of us have been disappointed to take our masterpiece out for a ride, only to discover that traffic, road, engine and exhaust noise are only slightly diminished. This is yet another case of needing to use the right tool for the job. Using a separate barrier to block sound is the right way to deal with the problem. The result will be much better, cost less and take a lot less work.


There is a lot more, but this is a good start... Source http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi)


D.

[mazilla]

I know what I'm going to suggest it's not cheap but here we go any way...

-On metal CLD Tiles to cover 25% of the flat areas "This would take care of the resonances - is just a slightly catchy name for 6” X 10” pieces of constrained layer damper – what we’ve traditionally called sound deadener. If you’ve been doing any research, you have probably come across the usual arguments: “Buy the good stuff and cover everything” or “Buy the cheap stuff and cover everything with multiple layers.

The usual arguments miss the point. Products like this are vibration dampers. Their only purpose is to control resonance in a vehicle’s panels. Controlling resonance is the absolutely critical first step in any sound deadening project, but more isn’t better and trying to use a CLD to block sound is too expensive, too labor intensive and makes it unnecessarily difficult to do future vehicle maintenance. The old adage about using the right tool for the job has never been truer.

-One layer of 1/4" CCF (Closed Cell Faom) is the ideal decoupler for barriers and trim panels in a motor vehicle. It will also absorb some very high frequency noise, but let’s not get carried away with that aspect of its use.

When you want to block noise, you need a massive barrier like Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier. For a barrier to work well, it should be floated above the substrate to which it is attached. If the substrate has any residual resonance after treating it with CLD Tiles, using CCF as a cushion will stop the resonance from exciting the barrier material. It also creates a more complex path for the sound to travel through, further increasing the effectiveness of the barrier.

When trim panels buzz or rattle, lining them with CCF will isolate them from whatever they are rattling against. Problem solved.

-MLV (mass loaded vinyl)
Once you've applied CLD Tiles, turn your attention to blocking noise. Controlling panel resonance is an essential step to prevent transmission of noise, but you need to block noise at the point of entry to achieve the kind of quiet ride we all want.

Many of us have tried following the old way of sound deadening a car - piling on layer after layer of vibration damper. The doors close with a satisfying "thunk" and the car sounds completely dead when you tap on its panels, but most of us have been disappointed to take our masterpiece out for a ride, only to discover that traffic, road, engine and exhaust noise are only slightly diminished. This is yet another case of needing to use the right tool for the job. Using a separate barrier to block sound is the right way to deal with the problem. The result will be much better, cost less and take a lot less work.


There is a lot more, but this is a good start... Source http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi)


D.

NAILED IT! :laughabove:

Good read, thank you. :w00t:

I'm happy where I'm at right now. My other daily driver is a lifted Wrangler so this Yaris is very quiet comparatively. Besides, the road noise gets quieter as the stereo volume gets louder. :thumbsup:

[Shinare]

Me personally, my goal is to get rid of the excessive road/tire/engine noise this car has. Along with all the rattles, shakes, and and buzzes that drive me crazy during my morning commute every day. I don't really car how much "thud" the door sounds like when it closes, I just would like a little more sound insulation/isolation in the cabin.

[mazilla]

Me personally, my goal is to get rid of the excessive road/tire/engine noise this car has. Along with all the rattles, shakes, and and buzzes that drive me crazy during my morning commute every day. I don't really car how much "thud" the door sounds like when it closes, I just would like a little more sound insulation/isolation in the cabin.


As explained there are two choices, el cheapo minor improvement or $$ to make it sound like a Mercedes (inside anyways). The choice is yours...

[Viperoni]

I know what I'm going to suggest it's not cheap but here we go any way...

-On metal CLD Tiles to cover 25% of the flat areas "This would take care of the resonances - is just a slightly catchy name for 6” X 10” pieces of constrained layer damper – what we’ve traditionally called sound deadener. If you’ve been doing any research, you have probably come across the usual arguments: “Buy the good stuff and cover everything” or “Buy the cheap stuff and cover everything with multiple layers.

The usual arguments miss the point. Products like this are vibration dampers. Their only purpose is to control resonance in a vehicle’s panels. Controlling resonance is the absolutely critical first step in any sound deadening project, but more isn’t better and trying to use a CLD to block sound is too expensive, too labor intensive and makes it unnecessarily difficult to do future vehicle maintenance. The old adage about using the right tool for the job has never been truer.

-One layer of 1/4" CCF (Closed Cell Faom) is the ideal decoupler for barriers and trim panels in a motor vehicle. It will also absorb some very high frequency noise, but let’s not get carried away with that aspect of its use.

When you want to block noise, you need a massive barrier like Mass Loaded Vinyl Barrier. For a barrier to work well, it should be floated above the substrate to which it is attached. If the substrate has any residual resonance after treating it with CLD Tiles, using CCF as a cushion will stop the resonance from exciting the barrier material. It also creates a more complex path for the sound to travel through, further increasing the effectiveness of the barrier.

When trim panels buzz or rattle, lining them with CCF will isolate them from whatever they are rattling against. Problem solved.

-MLV (mass loaded vinyl)
Once you've applied CLD Tiles, turn your attention to blocking noise. Controlling panel resonance is an essential step to prevent transmission of noise, but you need to block noise at the point of entry to achieve the kind of quiet ride we all want.

Many of us have tried following the old way of sound deadening a car - piling on layer after layer of vibration damper. The doors close with a satisfying "thunk" and the car sounds completely dead when you tap on its panels, but most of us have been disappointed to take our masterpiece out for a ride, only to discover that traffic, road, engine and exhaust noise are only slightly diminished. This is yet another case of needing to use the right tool for the job. Using a separate barrier to block sound is the right way to deal with the problem. The result will be much better, cost less and take a lot less work.


There is a lot more, but this is a good start... Source http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com (http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi)


D.

Best post.

Also, roofing products and the like from Home Depot/Lowes are NOT good CLD's (or sound deadeners) because of their construction.
They also don't do much, so don't spend much money on it either.

I found a very noticeable difference when I made a "sheet" of MLV (Mass loaded vinyl) that I put between my rear inner door skins and door panels.

[derickveliz2]

Best post.

Also, roofing products and the like from Home Depot/Lowes are NOT good CLD's (or sound deadeners) because of their construction.
They also don't do much, so don't spend much money on it either.

I found a very noticeable difference when I made a "sheet" of MLV (Mass loaded vinyl) that I put between my rear inner door skins and door panels.

Thanks,

here is a long story, learning process and time consuming adventure...

LINK (http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26150)




D.