buying a Yaris, what to look for?

[localkineguy]

Hi Everyone,
I'm sick of my current car giving me problems and I'm looking to get a basic Yaris so keep me afloat for the next 4 years. The main one I'm looking at is a 2008 Yaris with 89,000 miles, manual trans, manual windows & locks, 2dr hatch. Is there anything in particular that I should keep an eye out for regarding this car? Are there particular weak points or signs of bad use that I should check for? Thanks and I look forward to joining the community

[ilikerice]

From the top of my head. The usual stuff. Check the oil, try pulling the cap off and looking inside. Look for sludge build up.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35115&page=2
this thread is what a couple guys here have.

Only other thing I can think of is look for coolant residue from the water pump. I read quite often that the bearings go bad premature and will sling coolant around. Look on the bottom of the hood and firewall. Look for signs of coolant getting slung around like a wind mill.

ONly think i can think of right now.. hope this helps and others. good luck and welcome to yarisworld

[DMZ]

If the maintenance has been kept on schedule, there should not be any problems with it. If it looks like it has had "hard" use, be wary.

What is the asking price?

[localkineguy]

Asking price is $8,000 for ~90,000 miles. I got these replies too late but I did pop the hood and didn't notice anything obvious. The guy who's selling it works at a motorcycle shop so...I guess it's not manly enough for him :P

[Kiteless]

Hey I have basically that same car but its an 07. My car has 92k miles on it and the only problem I have had is the door windows rattle a little and the light behind the top dial in the climate control does not always come on unless I tap it. I have done all upkeep at tje dealership and the car has been flawless. Clutch is also in super good shape, but I am very easy on my gear shifts and do my best to rev match as I shift and not quick shift. Its just not setup for that. Still a lot of life left in a Yaris with 90k miles on it if it has been well taken care of.

- J

[nemelek]

Get proof that the oil has been changed every 5,000 miles.

[fj40dave]

My front brake caliper was dragging @ 74k mi.....but otherwise, my Yaris has been perfect.
I have 80k on it now.

ps: I will sell ya mine for 7,500 :)

[localkineguy]

Get proof that the oil has been changed every 5,000 miles.

You think that if the guy didn't do regular oil changes that's a deal-breaker?

[Flipper_1938]

You think that if the guy didn't do regular oil changes that's a deal-breaker?

Yep.

[Pacquiao]

Asking price is $8,000 for ~90,000 miles. I got these replies too late but I did pop the hood and didn't notice anything obvious. The guy who's selling it works at a motorcycle shop so...I guess it's not manly enough for him :P


You're willing to pay 8K for a Yaris that has 90K miles on it?

:eek:

Why not pay 13K for a brand new 3 door base hatch?

:iono:

[localkineguy]

You're willing to pay 8K for a Yaris that has 90K miles on it?

:eek:

Why not pay 13K for a brand new 3 door base hatch?

:iono:

1) I don't have $13k & quick build on the Toyota.com site says a new one is $15.5k anyway.
2) KBB puts the car between $7,600 and $8,200

Edit: price came down to $7,600 and he has service records at Toyota dealerships. I'm going for it

[Flipper_1938]

You're willing to pay 8K for a Yaris that has 90K miles on it?

:eek:

Why not pay 13K for a brand new 3 door base hatch?

:iono:

90,000 miles should not be an issue if it is a good car that hasn't been wrecked and has been maintained. My echo was still a great car at 318,000 miles (I took it cross-country at over 300,000 miles...no issues).

[localkineguy]

90,000 miles should not be an issue if it is a good car that hasn't been wrecked and has been maintained. My echo was still a great car at 318,000 miles (I took it cross-country at over 300,000 miles...no issues).

Whoa, two thumbs way up for hitting the big 3 number...sounds like you got a diesel engine in there...literally

[fj40dave]

When you get the new (used) Yaris ... let's see some pictures here!

[Flipper_1938]

Whoa, two thumbs way up for hitting the big 3 number...sounds like you got a diesel engine in there...literally

Nope, it was a normal gas burner.

[Kiteless]

Nope, it was a normal gas burner.

When you get the new (used) Yaris ... let's see some pictures here!

Yeah 300K+ miles is amazing!

Mos def wanna see some pics of your new (used) Yaris after you get it. Sounds like a good deal to me!

[localkineguy]

It'll just be a standard blue two door hatchback...no frills, not even power windows/locks. This has got to get me through graduate school :P

[ilikerice]

It will do just that =)

AND MORE!

[Kiteless]

It'll just be a standard blue two door hatchback...no frills, not even power windows/locks. This has got to get me through graduate school :P

Sounds like mine. I got my car brand new back in July of 2006. It had something like 3 miles on it. I was looking for a Yaris but no one had them and so I settled for a Scion xA. I got to the dealer and it had been sold. I thanked them, turned around and started walking to the door. The sales manager stopped me and wanted to know if I would want "one of those new Yaris cars they just got in" almost an hour ago. I went to look at them and they had not even peeled the plastic off the paint yet. I had to wait like 20 min for them to take all the plastic off the interior and exterior, I took it for a test drive and fell in love. I BARELY got financed, and the car has never failed me. It also had no options on it at all. Not even a stereo, just a plastic plate with a Toyota logo on it. I had to wait for almost 6 months before Metra came out with a dash kit on it. Found the kit on eBay weeeeeeeks before any local car audio places could get them.

Anyway, I am sure you will love your Yaris. Especially if you got the manual. Its the little car that just wants you to love it.

- Jason

[nemelek]

You think that if the guy didn't do regular oil changes that's a deal-breaker?

It is for me.

[tk1971]

Test drive it and make sure the clutch is in good shape.

Also, check the tires for feathering and uneven wear. You don't want to get new tires shortly after buying the car.

Good luck.

[rningonfumes]

Ask where most of the miles were made. It matters for the engine and for the tranny/clutch. Who was the primary driver? Kid who liked to push it or commuter's A to B car?


I used to wonder why it mattered where the miles were made. I then realized that highway miles means less wear and tear, especially for the tranny.

[localkineguy]

Tires looked good when I took a look at them...they looked evenly worn too. The owner/driver is a manager (late 30s?) at a Harley Davidson store. Many miles were highway (so he claims) to commute to and from where he used to work.

How can you make sure the clutch is "in good shape" via a test drive?

[nemelek]

[QUOTEHow can you make sure the clutch is "in good shape" via a test drive?[/QUOTE]

Stop the car. Set the park brake. Put it in 5th gear. Rev the engine to red line. Pop the clutch while keeping the engine reved.

If the engine dies, the clutch is good.
If the engine keeps running, the clutch is bad.

Note: Don't let the current owner see you do this test.

[Kiteless]

Tires looked good when I took a look at them...they looked evenly worn too. The owner/driver is a manager (late 30s?) at a Harley Davidson store. Many miles were highway (so he claims) to commute to and from where he used to work.

How can you make sure the clutch is "in good shape" via a test drive?

For the clutch, I test by pushing the car hard in lower gears, with permission from the current owner of course. If you have been driving a stick you can feel the clutch slipping, but it's harder without a tach. Shift smoothly and apply power as soon as you let the clutch out. Don't do quick shifts and drive it like a race car, 1st gear, RPM's up, clutch in and wait a moment for the revs to come back down and second... it should be smooth. Don't forget to look at the dryness of hoses, and the state of the accessory belt. That belt runs your water pump among other things, so its important it does not break. Look at how cracked it is mainly on the inside that has ribbing that grabs around the pulleys.

Also test brakes, does it stop well? Good, no need to slam on them. Also brake gently, any wobble? If there is there may be a warped rotor and at that age will need replacing.

Look under the car, any oil?

After it's warmed up listen to it idle, it should be niiiiice and smooth.

Pop the air cleaner and look at it. Is it nasty? Even if it does not need it, maybe go get a test only smog done on it. If it passes, that is also a good indication that it is a solid running car.

You can even put a volt meter on the alternator and see what its putting out. I believe a good strong alternator should put out like 14 volts? May need correction there.

Thats my way anyway. I am too chicken***t to redline a car, especially someone elses. Hope this helps.

- Jason

[localkineguy]

1. Can you post a picture of the accessory belt? Is it the belt on the passenger side of the car?
2. Rotor warping shows up as vibrations in the brake pedal during deceleration right? (i.e. wobble = vibrating/pulsing?)
3. Can you also post a picture of the air filter?
4. Can I get a second opinion on the alternator voltage? I do have a multimeter and can do that pretty quickly


By the way, thanks for all of the responses guys