Yet another Blitz Supercharger Install

[CTScott]

This weekend I installed a used Blitz Supercharger on my 09. I was amazed as to how easy the installation actually was. I spent about 4 hours on Saturday doing the mechanical portion of the install and about an hour on Sunday morning doing the electrical portion. The person who I bought it from labeled every bolt and spacer, which definitely helped. Though, the spacers required for the replacement alternator bracket were different for my car than for his.

On Saturday, after I completed the mechanical portion, I had my daughter start the car, while I had my head under the hood, verifying that the belt was properly aligned an that there were no leaks from when I removed the fuel rail. That part went perfect, but then we had to go to a dinner party, so I had to wait for Sunday morning to do the electrical part. After scraping knuckles doing the mechanical part, the electrical part was a breeze. After completing the electrical part, I once again had my daughter at the wheel, with my head under the hood. After verifying engagement of the clutch in the three modes of operation, we were ready for a road test.

Pulling out of my driveway, I was immediately impressed with the torque difference. After cruising around our neighborhood and feeling the difference on the hills, my only regret was not having done this sooner.

The finished product:
42572

Pulley alignment:
42573

Alternator relocation:
42574

Wiring:
42575

[marcus]

Sweet!!!!!!!!

[mazilla]

Nice!

I'm a few steps away from my S/C still, the wait(research mainly) is killing me!


What would it take to properly paint the outside of the unit? I'd like to paint mine before the install but I don't want to disassemble the entire thing. Without having held it in my hands it's hard to take a guess... it looks like it would be pretty straight forward.

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

So this is a no-frills, out of the box, used Blitz kit with nothing else special? Did you swap out the injectors or swap out anything OEM for something different? Nice install, and nice install time!

[CTScott]

Nice!

I'm a few steps away from my S/C still, the wait(research mainly) is killing me!


What would it take to properly paint the outside of the unit? I'd like to paint mine before the install but I don't want to disassemble the entire thing. Without having held it in my hands it's hard to take a guess... it looks like it would be pretty straight forward.

If you are buying a new one, then it will come in three sections, so you will just need to mask the faces and shoot the pieces. I kind of wish that I had shot mine before installing it.

[CTScott]

So this is a no-frills, out of the box, used Blitz kit with nothing else special? Did you swap out the injectors or swap out anything OEM for something different? Nice install, and nice install time!

Correct. I installed it all as-is and kept the stock injectors for now. I am using my YarGauge as my AFR gauge (reading the OEM wideband sensors from the ECM) and thus far am not running lean. If anything I am a bit rich (12.3) when its really under load. The only time I see over 15, is when DFCO kicks in.

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

Correct. I installed it all as-is and kept the stock injectors for now. I am using my YarGauge as my AFR gauge (reading the OEM wideband sensors from the ECM) and thus far am not running lean. If anything I am a bit rich (12.3) when its really under load. The only time I see over 15, is when DFCO kicks in.

Awesome. What else will you be adding in addition to the Blitz kit?

[CTScott]

Awesome. What else will you be adding in addition to the Blitz kit?

I have an AFE Intake that will be going on now, and I am planning on doing something with the exhaust as well.

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

Sweet! I'll be watching this thread!

[camelll]

Awesome! Glad everything went well. I did have to do some adjustments with the spacers to make my pulley align correctly as I shredded a couple of belts when I first installed it, but once I got that corrected I never had any more problem with that. I loved and miss the whine of the compressor!

12.3 is a good spot to be in under full boost, my wideband hovered around 12.0 under full load and sometimes it would run in mid to high 11's. The unit is supposed to be around 7 psi but it was not uncommon to see boost pressures 9-10 on my autometer boost/vacuum gauge. It could have been very possible that my gauge was wrong, I don't think it was, it calibrated itself at every power up and the vacuum was always consistent.

If you have any throttle lag I would suggest you get (or make) a throttle controller. I had a violence throttle controller and it was a great complement to the system, but I had serious throttle lag. That was a "my only regret is I wish I would have done it sooner moment" aside from the compressor but I did that as soon as they were available.

You may also want to put the fuel controller in the cab, I had it in the engine compartment but I wish I would have put it inside to protect it from the elements as it will get dusty and dirty.

One more interesting tidbit is that you and thebarber are the only 2 that have a pink wire on the fuel controller. So if you go to the blitz website and look at there manual and wiring diagram it is different. If you have any questions or ever run into any problems please shoot me a pm and I will try to help you out if you need it, which I doubt you will, considering your already a highly knowledgeable and smart person.

Have fun and enjoy the compressor as much as I did, god knows I am missing it right now but the dealership wanted it off the car to take it for trade when my car comes in.:thumbup:

[camelll]

watch out for any intake that has a bypass valve in it, like the TRD as it can get sucked into the compressor. I have no idea if the AFE does or not.

[TEHxFALLEN V1.2]

^
The AFE is a SRI and has no bypass valve whatsoever, so he should be okay.

[camelll]

Awesome, I just wanted to throw that out there.:thumbup:

You may also want to get or make a catch can.

[CTScott]

Awesome! Glad everything went well. I did have to do some adjustments with the spacers to make my pulley align correctly as I shredded a couple of belts when I first installed it, but once I got that corrected I never had any more problem with that. I loved and miss the whine of the compressor!

12.3 is a good spot to be in under full boost, my wideband hovered around 12.0 under full load and sometimes it would run in mid to high 11's. The unit is supposed to be around 7 psi but it was not uncommon to see boost pressures 9-10 on my autometer boost/vacuum gauge. It could have been very possible that my gauge was wrong, I don't think it was, it calibrated itself at every power up and the vacuum was always consistent.

If you have any throttle lag I would suggest you get (or make) a throttle controller. I had a violence throttle controller and it was a great complement to the system, but I had serious throttle lag. That was a "my only regret is I wish I would have done it sooner moment" aside from the compressor but I did that as soon as they were available.

You may also want to put the fuel controller in the cab, I had it in the engine compartment but I wish I would have put it inside to protect it from the elements as it will get dusty and dirty.

One more interesting tidbit is that you and thebarber are the only 2 that have a pink wire on the fuel controller. So if you go to the blitz website and look at there manual and wiring diagram it is different. If you have any questions or ever run into any problems please shoot me a pm and I will try to help you out if you need it, which I doubt you will, considering your already a highly knowledgeable and smart person.

Have fun and enjoy the compressor as much as I did, god knows I am missing it right now but the dealership wanted it off the car to take it for trade when my car comes in.:thumbup:

I was going to lengthen the wires and move the fuel controller internal, but ended up sealing the wire entry point and attaching it to the ECM.

The extra "pink" wire was for RPM. I find it odd that the newer version doesn't use a tach input. Or, perhaps the old one had the input, but didn't actually do anything with it.

[ChitownY@Ris]

Sick job, man:respekt: You guys seem to have mad knowledge on cars to be DIY on this. Unfortunately for me, I can't bring myself to drop 3500 plus 1000 on labor for 30hp. When my Yaris is paid off in 2013, hopefully I can get my hands on a Blitz for under a grand and maybe then I'll be:burnrubber:

[derickveliz2]

Nice! CTScott

keep us posted this is a great mod!

D.

[mazilla]

Haha! This was Camells S/C? That was almost in my car...good times.

[thebarber]

welcome to the s/c club, scott

[ecc_33]

did this change you're guys fuel milage much?

[CTScott]

did this change you're guys fuel milage much?

I'll let you know in about a week. From what others have said, they have dropped 3-5 MPG, depending on how they drive. Also, the Blitz has a four position control switch that you install in the cabin that allows you to adjust when the superchargers clutch is engaged. You can set it for low, med, or high (which determines with how much throttle it engages) or off. That was the selling point for me - The ability to have some extra guts, or be MPG conscious at will.

[derickveliz2]

AWESOME!
CTScott, could you guide me installing one like that? from A to B that would be such a nice project!

D.

[mazilla]

I'll let you know in about a week. From what others have said, they have dropped 3-5 MPG, depending on how they drive. Also, the Blitz has a four position control switch that you install in the cabin that allows you to adjust when the superchargers clutch is engaged. You can set it for low, med, or high (which determines with how much throttle it engages) or off. That was the selling point for me - The ability to have some extra guts, or be MPG conscious at will.


Pic of the cabin control? I've been wondering what it looks like...

[CTScott]

AWESOME!
CTScott, could you guide me installing one like that? from A to B that would be such a nice project!

D.

There are so many threads on the install process, that I actually didn't bother documenting it. The Blitz instructions are good, except for not showing as well as you'd like which bolts go where. Also, for the alignment of the alternator, I think that laying a belt across the pulleys and experimenting with the spacers works better than using the specific ones stated in the doc and then watching the belt pop off when you start it for the first time.

[camelll]

I had it set to low (engage at 25% throttle) all times and I have not noticed a difference in mileage. Still get 30-32 mpg same as it was brand new, same with supercharger and same now it is off. I never babied the car to squeeze better gas mileage out of it, with or without the supercharger.

[CTScott]

Pic of the cabin control? I've been wondering what it looks like...

It's a tiny little panel (about 1.5" x 1") with a tiny rotary switch and an LED. I installed mine on the back of the driver's side cubby, next to the HVAC controls.

42614

[enviri]

awesome! now i want one even more :(

[CTScott]

awesome! now i want one even more :(

There's another used one for sale right now:

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35137

[thebarber]

i leave mine on low all the time now....i have intake, header and exhaust and still get 7.5L/100km (31.4mpg) mostly city driving

when it was around freezing i put it on medium so that i A: had traction and B: i wasn't running boost all the time for economy reasons

[LtNoogie]

I am glad you are enjoying it. Do you have a manual or automatic?

[derickveliz2]

I've seen them for $3,800 at MI, but could you translate for me in real world how much of gian (power) this mods is? I mean... Yaris 1.5 is about 106 hp.

Just curious!

Thanks

D.

[cali yaris]

I don't have any in stock, I'll call tomorrow so we can have a current price on them new.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

I've seen them for $3,800 at MI, but could you translate for me in real world how much of gian (power) this mods is? I mean... Yaris 1.5 is about 106 hp.

Just curious!

Thanks

D.

I think it puts down ~130 to the wheels. Someone had a video of their Vitz on a dyno at a car show with it, can't remember who tho.

[Kaotic Lazagna]

My bad, it was 120, and I'm not sure which SC it is (assumed it was the Blitz).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_XEtEk7J3oU

[CTScott]

I am glad you are enjoying it. Do you have a manual or automatic?

Auto

[thebarber]

peterpoop ran about 130-135 whp/wtq with intake header and exhaust

he was about 135-140whp/wtq with fatter powerbands after a tune with emanage ultimate...his dyno sheets are somewhere on the site

[CTScott]

Last night via my TechStream tool, I did the "Reset Memory" procedure for the ECM's control of the automatic transmission. This causes the ECM to re-learn its shifting patterns based on your driving style. After doing the reset with the tool, you have to drive it, doing a lot of starts and stops for 15 minutes, so I did so pretty aggressively. Driving around today with it, I notice a big difference in the shifting patterns, where they better match the way that the boost kicks in.

[Kiteless]

Is there any way to make this setup California Carb Legal?

- Jason

[TOLMACH]

Just curious, does the Kit comes with any wiring instructions?

[CTScott]

Just curious, does the Kit comes with any wiring instructions?

Yes, and they are pretty easy to follow.

[TOLMACH]

^ Thanks

[TOLMACH]

^ Any plans to install the engine cover (the black piece)?

[CTScott]

^ Any plans to install the engine cover (the black piece)?

I eventually trimmed my painted OEM one and reinstalled it.

[TOLMACH]

watch out for any intake that has a bypass valve in it, like the TRD as it can get sucked into the compressor. I have no idea if the AFE does or not.

What if I already happen to have this bypass valve (TRD CAI) - can I just get rid of it, replacing with piece of tube? (Kinda hoping that I can)

Thanks

[G-Ammo]

So awesome... In maybe a year or 2 i will also have a supercharger...
ON A 1.0 3 CYLINDER ENGINE (1KR-FE)

Yeah :3

[Astroman]

*sigh* can't wait to join the club.

[david_827]

*sigh* can't wait to join the club.

+1....

[jcboy]

that's so sick. i wish superchargers were a common thing here, as i hate everyone saying Turbo here. personally i think the superchargers are the middle ground for NA and turbo, or best of both worlds.

unfortunately here in the philippines supercharger are soooooo rare, thus maintenance would be a PITA.

good post scott! always been a fan of your work! :drool: :drool:

[TOLMACH]

CTScott, couple questions, please:


Question 1
The SC kit, that BLITZ-USA calls "yaris one" contains both the tensioning pulley and the idler pulley, however, most install pictures that I see here and on youtube only use the tensioner pully without the idler pulley on the drive (aka serpentine) belt.

Do you know why is that? Asking because my kit does not have the idler pulley - shall I find some aftermarket one or just use the tensioning one and have it properly installed and adjusted?


Question 2

My car does not have air conditioning which, from the standpoint of the SC installation is both blessing and a headake. Blessing -obviously less strugle with AC lines, headake because I have to figure out the proper belt size/lenght.

Do I understand correcly that, as a starting point I can add the difference between the lengths of the AC belts (with and w/o SC) to my OEM belt length?



In case I can not find a 4 rib belt, is it difficult to splice a belt in case I only find a 6 or 8 rib one (into a 4 and 2 rib one / two 4 rib ones)?

Sorry for stupid questions ))

Thank you for your time

[CTScott]

I have only seen the Yaris Blitz Kits that include just the one tensioner pulley.

For belt length, get it mounted, move the tensioner pulley to its end of travel where the distance around the pulleys would be the shortest, and then wrap a piece of non-stretchy rope around the belt path. Mark the length, measure it, and then look for a 6 or 8 rib belt as close to that measurement as possible. Since you will be working from the shortest length, with the position of the tensioner pulley, only go up in belt length to meet a standard one. You can go up to an inch longer to have the belt still be in the range that the tensioner will work with.

[TOLMACH]

^ Thank you!

[thebarber]

My yaris was supercharged, no a/c.

Gatorback part # 040560

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b339/dabarber/yaris/132_7666.jpg

[TOLMACH]

^ Barber

SPASIBO!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Off: why do you say was.. what happened?

[TOLMACH]

This one comes with lifetime warranty.. This I like ))))))))))))


http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Gates/Drive_Belt/GATK040560.html

[thebarber]

Off: why do you say was.. what happened?
Parted out and sold the car

[birdman]

When you add a modification like this does it put a lot of extra wear and tear on the motor?

[TOLMACH]

When you add a modification like this does it put a lot of extra wear and tear on the motor?

should not be much extra wear as this is a low boost device plust it can be completely turned off

[CTScott]

With any changes to the air/fuel ratio and flow to an engine there is the potential for damage. A person over on the Micro Image forum recently damaged his engine with use of a Rotrex supercharger. He didn't mention how much boost he was running, as compared with the 6 PSI of the Blitz, but even the Blitz can do damage if the engine is allowed to run too lean.

[cali yaris]

unfortunately here in the philippines supercharger are soooooo rare, thus maintenance would be a PITA.

Installed correctly, there is no additional maintenance.

[why?]

that's so sick. i wish superchargers were a common thing here, as i hate everyone saying Turbo here. personally i think the superchargers are the middle ground for NA and turbo, or best of both worlds.

unfortunately here in the philippines supercharger are soooooo rare, thus maintenance would be a PITA.

good post scott! always been a fan of your work! :drool: :drool:

You get less gas mileage because the supercharger is always going ( well not always, as the blitz does have a clutch) and a small turbo tuned right can do the same thing a supercharger can but get better gas mileage and more power. It would just cost more. And be more of a hassle.

But Philippines? isn't that the land of dirt cheap labor costs?

[TOLMACH]

Background: Checked e-bay to discover that there is a bunch of different ECUs available for 2006-2012 yaris. Mine is 89661-52j30 version (canadian 5 speed manual tranny).

Question: Do I just wire the CS controller same way as shown in the post below?

http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php/1224-Going-boosted-this-weekend?p=14467&viewfull=1#post14467

Thanks

P.

[CTScott]

Background: Checked e-bay to discover that there is a bunch of different ECUs available for 2006-2012 yaris. Mine is 89661-52j30 version (canadian 5 speed manual tranny).

Question: Do I just wire the CS controller same way as shown in the post below?

http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php/1224-Going-boosted-this-weekend?p=14467&viewfull=1#post14467

Thanks

P.


All of those ECMs are the same from a SC standpoint. The differences are for tranny type, engine immobilizer, ABS equipped, etc.

[cali yaris]

^ Blitz used to mark the fuel controller for manual or auto transmission, though. I have no idea what the difference in tuning might have been.

[TOLMACH]

^ Thanks!!

[TOLMACH]

Question pls re wiring .. (I know I am very slow)

My question deals with clutch activation

1. I am right in thinking that blue wire on the diagram is simply supplying +12V signal to the relay (this wire goes from the 4-position module which manages the whole activatio thing)?

2. and that If I wire this unit only (wihtout connecting the fuel controller and 4-position module ) and supply +12 v to the blue wire I will be able to check whether clutch is engaging (just wanted to check the sc unit itself prior to installation as my kit is a pre-owned one)

Thank you

P.

[CTScott]

Question pls re wiring .. (I know I am very slow)

My question deals with clutch activation

1. I am right in thinking that blue wire on the diagram is simply supplying +12V signal to the relay (this wire goes from the 4-position module which manages the whole activatio thing)?

2. and that If I wire this unit only (wihtout connecting the fuel controller and 4-position module ) and supply +12 v to the blue wire I will be able to check whether clutch is engaging (just wanted to check the sc unit itself prior to installation as my kit is a pre-owned one)

Thank you

P.

The blue wire from the cabin switch is actually the switched ground for the relay coil. If you look at that diagram above you will see that fused power goes to the relay coil and then the blue wire from the switch goes to the other side.

[TOLMACH]

Thanks.. meaning that in there is @nothing@ in this blue line then SC is not activated, and if positive (12+v) goes to blue wire, SC gets activated?

[CTScott]

Thanks.. meaning that in there is @nothing@ in this blue line then SC is not activated, and if positive (12+v) goes to blue wire, SC gets activated?

No. It is a switched ground, so when the blue wire is connected to nothing the SC is not activated and when the blue wire is grounded the SC is activated.

[TOLMACH]

Wow.. Thanks!

I thought that @nothing@ would equal ground ))

Understand now

[jcboy]

You get less gas mileage because the supercharger is always going ( well not always, as the blitz does have a clutch) and a small turbo tuned right can do the same thing a supercharger can but get better gas mileage and more power. It would just cost more. And be more of a hassle.

But Philippines? isn't that the land of dirt cheap labor costs?


Well, commodities and services cost a lot there in the US, but you earn big money too. Here commodities and services are dirt-cheap compared to there, but people earn a looot lower than people there. Although the cost-of-living-to-salary ratio is lower compared to what you have, unfortunately it is still not considered affordable since as non-necessities such as car tuning (as compared to house repair) are charged incredibly high.

FYI, A decent paint "washover" can go as low as $500 including labor and paint and all. a $600 paint job is already superb, an $800 paint job is carshow quality already, probably with pocket change.

[TOLMACH]

CTScott, need your help pls with wiring of my kit.

Background: wired my SC and nothing happens (does not seem to work) when I try to turn it on using the supplied four position switch. To check whether the clutch with a magnetic switch is working I wired the clutch as discussed about a week ago and supplied @ground@ to the blue wire - can hear a distinct @click@. When I do it while the car is running I am able to hear the click from the clutch followed by some other noise (engine is also starting to run kinda rough - I guess because the fmu is not working) so I gues the Sc itself is OK.

I am considering several options
1. wiring is incorrect
2. fmu (the supplied fuel controlled module) is not working
3. the four position activation system is not working (small box with a circuit inside and switch attached to another small circuit board with a red led)

Questions: while getting connections on the A21 side I was not able to remove the back cover of the ecu plug and locate the wires that I needed (according to the wiring diagram I gonna need positive (ING ON) wire and accelerator position sensor (both should be red). I found though two red wires, one of which seems to show 13.2 V(+) while the car is running, another giving me a range of values between (+) 0.76 and 1.2 volts depending on the engine RPM (1000-4000.. voltage gradually increases as engine RPM increase).

Question 1: Do these two guys seem the right wires that I need?

To check whether the problem is with the four-position switch system, can I just wire the FMU and activate the SC manually (by suppplying the "ground" to the blue wire). I actually do not like this 4 position system, I would rather have two positions: on and off.

Question 2 pls: Can I achieve this by manually operating the SC (supplying ground) and at the same switching on and off the FMU (by installing another switch for the FMU - say disconnecting positive 12V wire)?

Is there a better way to get FMU working when sc clutch is engaged? (one of the diagams kinda tells me that the four position switch system has smth to do with activating the FMU - green wire of the FMU gets connected to the blue wire of the clutch relay and blue wire of the 4-position switch (which should be ground))

Qestions 3 pls: Is there a way to check whether FMU is actually working? When I supply power from the battery to the red and black wires of the FMU - shall the red LED on the side of the FMU be ON all the time? Mine does not seem to stay ON (sort of blinking sometimes)

Thank you!

[TOLMACH]

This is what I am using. My kit is from xb, hence I have a pink wire. I also have only one black wire at the FMU level, not three.

[CTScott]

That wiring is all correct for the Yaris. How did you make your connections (tap splices, solder, etc.)?

[TOLMACH]

I did not solder but the physical connections are all good - I have lots of experience with car and home audio stuff. (section of ecu wire stripped (without cutting), then fmu wire securely attached, then the joint pressed with pliers and insulated.

[TOLMACH]

Update: Just disconnected a bunch of wires and reconnected the same way again: IT WORKS.. dunno what happened

JEEEEE... THE CAR FEELS TWO TIMES FASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CAN NOT BELIEVE HOW GOOD THIS THING IS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[CTScott]

Update: Just disconnected a bunch of wires and reconnected the same way again: IT WORKS.. dunno what happened

JEEEEE... THE CAR FEELS TWO TIMES FASTER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CAN NOT BELIEVE HOW GOOD THIS THING IS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That's great that it is now working. I would recommend either soldering the connections or using some form of crimped connectors. Twist and tape is not a good way to go under the hood.

[CrankyOldMan]

CT, do you by chance have any pictures of your soldering process? I'm not 100% sure how to strip the insulation on the OEM harness w/out cutting any of the wires. Small torch?

I soldered the lights on my trailer last weekend and it was a pretty big pain trying to hold both wires steady enough to get the solder to set. In addition, I ended up cutting the wire that was being spliced in to so that I could get the heat shrink over just those two wires. There were a few stray strands that got nicked by the wire stripper, but I'm not as concerned with trailer lights as I am with the ignition wiring.

[CTScott]

CT, do you by chance have any pictures of your soldering process? I'm not 100% sure how to strip the insulation on the OEM harness w/out cutting any of the wires. Small torch?

I soldered the lights on my trailer last weekend and it was a pretty big pain trying to hold both wires steady enough to get the solder to set. In addition, I ended up cutting the wire that was being spliced in to so that I could get the heat shrink over just those two wires. There were a few stray strands that got nicked by the wire stripper, but I'm not as concerned with trailer lights as I am with the ignition wiring.


I didn't take pictures of that process, but I typically do inline soldering by either of two methods:


Stripping the wire:

1. Strip and smush - Take the wire to connect to, cut through the jacket with a wire stripper (one that has separate holes for each wire size, to prevent cutting the strands). Once you are through the jacket, push the stripper along the wire towards the longer side of the wire (i.e. away from the nearest connector). You can typically get 1/2" to 1" of access to the bare wire by doing this.

2. Carve the insulation - Using a hobby knife (or the stripper above and hobby knife), ring the insulate at two points about 1/2" apart, and then slit between the two rings to remove the section of insulation.


Soldering:

Wrap your wire to attach around the exposed wire, heat the two wires with a soldering iron, and wick the solder into both. Then, a wrap of electrical tape or a shrinkable tape seals the deal.

[TOLMACH]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hands-Free-Soldering-Stand-Magnifier-Magnifying-Jig-Helping-Hand-2x-Optical-New-/271196434964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f24913214

[CrankyOldMan]

^Now that you mention it, I think I have one of those around here...

[TOLMACH]

^ I think this thing can also help prevent (to some extent) the heat from going towards the ECU and potentially damaging smth.. My soldering skills are kinda mediocre - overheating the wires is a real possibility ((

[CTScott]

^ I think this thing can also help prevent (to some extent) the heat from going towards the ECU and potentially damaging smth.. My soldering skills are kinda mediocre - overheating the wires is a real possibility ((

You won't really have enough room to use a tool like that, but there are no real worries about overheating the wire. You will be splicing into the wire a few inches from the ECM connector and can even do so with it unplugged...

[tmizell]

@TOLMACH Thanks for sharing that diagram. Saved the day!
Was shipped a used Blitz with the NCP91 kit, but has the xB Fuel Controller. Couldn't find the proper wiring diagram, until I found your old post.