Advice on Blitz S/C

[MGargano]

The Blitz S/C I bought from YarisDarkness should be here on Friday and I'm really hoping to tackle the install this weekend, but I want to make sure I have everything I need on-hand to make it go as smoothly as possible without having to borrow another car to make multiple trips to the auto parts store in the middle of the install.

From searching and reading other install threads, it looks like I'll need a longer vacuum line, NGK iridium plugs, higher octane gas, lots of patience, and eventually one of those sweet MI engine covers once all is said and done.

I was also wondering if there's anything else I should be doing mod-wise, while I'm already this far? I already have an NST lite pulley set, but would a 10% underdrive be better with the S/C setup? I have an AFE intake and Megan header & axle-back with a custom mid-pipe and I've already tried the 1ZZ TB twice with no success, but would this be a good time to give it another shot? I was also thinking 1ZZ injectors, but it seems some are running too rich already with the S/C, so I assume they're not needed?

If there's anyone out out there with any advice, tips, tricks, or something else to add to my shopping list, I'd really appreciate it.

[PETERPOOP]

You shouldn't use the 10% underdrive NST pulley with a S/C, thats for a turbo or N/A setup. You're better off with the NST crank lite pulley.

If you really want to unleash the most power out of the kit, you should try and get ahold of a AEM FiC engine managment system and have a tuner retune your car with that. Instead of using the provided piggyback unit that comes with the blitz kit. My tuner was able to get me 20+ more WHP in my mid range with the greddy emanage ultimate (a different engine management), but he said he would have preferred the AEM FiC and would have probably gotten similar gains if not better from it.

The blitz kit isn't at it's full potential with the supplied piggy back.

[cali yaris]

^ plus, we now have the Boomslang plug 'n play harness for the FI/C, might be a nice combination for tuning.

[CTScott]

Having just done mine, hopefully I can help, since it's still fresh:

Tools:
Sockets - 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm (for the 10, 12, and 14 mm ones both shallow and deep are good to have on hand)

Ratchet with handle extension: I used a combination of 3/8" and 1/4" drive sockets, based on clearance. I also found it necessary to use a piece of pipe on the handle a couple of times to break things loose. I keep a couple of different length pieces of pipe on hand that fit over my ratchet handles.

Wrenches - 10mm, 12mm, 14mm (my Sears ratcheting combination wrenches came in very handy).

Allen Wrenches / Sockets - 6mm (A ratchet drive 6mm is a big help for the outer manifold bolts)

External Torx Sockets - Torx E6 to remove the throttle body studs.

Headlamp - If you are working solo, it's a lot handier than constantly moving a light around.


Materials:
Vacuum hose - 5/16" (8mm) About 18" of hose (even though the two nipples are only about 4" apart, you have to make it pretty long to route it so that it doesn't kink).

Cooler plugs - I ran for a couple of days with the OEM ones before swapping to the cooler ones. I haven't noticed any change in AFR since, but I installed them to be safe.

Gas - I forgot and filled up at our local no-name gas station with 87 octane. It almost immediately started pinging and knocking while under boost, so I turned off the SC until I added octane booster. That immediately helped, but in the long run filling up with 91 octane would have been cheaper than an $8 bottle of octane booster.

Wideband AFR Meter - Since people have had mixed results with running lean, an AFR meter is not a bad idea. With my YarGauge, I sniffed the comm between the TechStream tool and the ECM to figure out the CAN messages for reading the AFR from the stock O2 sensors (which just happen to be wideband). This saved me the expense and hassle of installing an aftermarket one.

Boost Gauge - If you plan on adding a boost gauge, do it while you are installing the SC. I installed one last night and it was a total pain to get the plug out of the manifold and get the compression fitting for the nylon tubing in, with the SC on the car. The plug was simple to put in, before the SC went on, so if I had pre-purchased my boost gauge it would have saved time.

Teflon tape - There are a couple of places in the instructions where you are told to use it.

Belts - Goodyear 4060660 with the last two ribs trimmed off or 4080660 split in half (two for the price of one!)

Wiring splice material - Either solder and electrical tape/shrink tubing or tap splices and electrical tape.


Tricks:
Depressurizing the Fuel System - Just pull the EFI fuse and crank the engine a couple of times before starting the disassembly, rather than disconnecting the fuel pump.


Pulley alignment and spacers - I had a belt handy, and before mounting the alternator, I held it against the bracket and set the belt over its pulley, the crank pulley, and the AC pulley. That let me check where it needed to be and saved me from mounting and dismounting it a couple times (or shredding belts). The pictures below show what I used for spacers. What I found to work was way different than the install doc showed and a bit different from what Cammell used (who sold me the SC):

Note: I used no spacers between the "B" bracket and the "A" bracket on the top alternator mount:
42835

Note: 7mm Spacer "A" between the engine and the "A" bracket.
42836

Note: I didn't get a picture, but I used one 4mm Spacer "B" between the "A" bracket and the bottom of the alternator.

AC Lines - When you move the alternator, its pulley will touch the AC lines. While the alternator is off, loosen the bracket that holds the AC lines to the passenger side of the engine compartment, slide the lines as far forward as they will go, and re-tighten the bracket.


Fuel Rail - Getting the middle nut on the the Blitz's intake is tricky - I pulled the fuel rail most of the way off of the injectors, but removing the right most injector requires removing the valve cover or cutting the tab off of it that keeps the rail pipe from being able to be removed. I later read this in another install thread:

From Kurokoma-kun: "If you don't want to completely remove the fuel rail, here's a trick for getting the nut on that center stud in the cylinder head. Use a ratcheting swiveling box end wrench. Wrap a narrow strip of duct tape around the outer edge of nut, in the opposite direction of tightening, leaving a long tail of tape... you will stick this to the wrench handle. Wedge the taped nut into the flat end of wrench, insert into the space between fuel rail and manifold, place the nut over the stud and try to turn. After it catches even one thread, you can lift the tool straight up and off the nut. Then use it to press the flat surface of the nut while you pull off the tape strip--the action of pulling the tape off tightens the nut a couple more turns. Then you can get in there with the ratcheting end to finish tightening"

Wiring - The wiring is really not that bad. If you unmount the ECM then you don't have to remove the wiper cowling while working on the wiring.

The instructions say to route the blue "activation" wire through the firewall, but you actually have to route the blue, black yellow, and red so do them all at the same time. The directions say to keep the red under the dash, but I brought it through with the other 3 and connected it to the same ignition switched power wire on the ECM connector (A1-28) as you have to connect the fuel controller's wire to.

There are two grounds and two ignition switched power connections (and they are out of order in the chart). so look for those and do them first in order to prevent having to go back and connect a second wire, where you already connected one.

[MGargano]

You shouldn't use the 10% underdrive NST pulley with a S/C, thats for a turbo or N/A setup. You're better off with the NST crank lite pulley.

If you really want to unleash the most power out of the kit, you should try and get ahold of a AEM FiC engine managment system and have a tuner retune your car with that. Instead of using the provided piggyback unit that comes with the blitz kit. My tuner was able to get me 20+ more WHP in my mid range with the greddy emanage ultimate (a different engine management), but he said he would have preferred the AEM FiC and would have probably gotten similar gains if not better from it.

The blitz kit isn't at it's full potential with the supplied piggy back.

So you would recommend a combination of the AEM F/IC and the Boomslang harness in order to get the most out of the Blitz? Is that too much for the stock internals to handle in a daily driver?

[MGargano]

Wow! Thanks for the info, Scott!

[PETERPOOP]

So you would recommend a combination of the AEM F/IC and the Boomslang harness in order to get the most out of the Blitz? Is that too much for the stock internals to handle in a daily driver?

That will definitely not be too much for the stock internals to handle. Most you will get is 140(ish) whp; atleast I did. However, I did have a 2.25" headerback exhaust setup with aem meth injection (50/50 water meth). I had 1zz fuel injectors too.

Also, depends what dyno you go on to see what numbers it will show, but it will be around 140whp. I dyno'd on two different dynos and i'm confident that it is near that number when retuning with a different management.

[MGargano]

That will definitely not be too much for the stock internals to handle. Most you will get is 140(ish) whp; atleast I did. However, I did have a 2.25" headerback exhaust setup with aem meth injection (50/50 water meth). I had 1zz fuel injectors too.

Also, depends what dyno you go on to see what numbers it will show, but it will be around 140whp. I dyno'd on two different dynos and i'm confident that it is near that number when retuning with a different management.

I have an AFE intake, Megan header, 2.25" mid-pipe, and Megan axle-back.

I figured the Blitz (without management) to add another ~30 HP (unless I'm mistaken?), which would/should bring me up somewhere around 140-ish. If so, I can't really see the benefit of spending another $800 or so on the AEM and Boomslang.

Do you recommend adding 1ZZ injectors with the Blitz?

[cali yaris]

^ Some people ran lean and needed them, and some didn't.

[MGargano]

^ Some people ran lean and needed them, and some didn't.

I guess this AFR meter (http://shop.microimageonline.com/AEM-UEGO-air-fuel-gauge-AEM-30-4100.htm) would be useful for determining that? Or will the ScanGauge measure AFR too?

[PETERPOOP]

I have an AFE intake, Megan header, 2.25" mid-pipe, and Megan axle-back.

I figured the Blitz (without management) to add another ~30 HP (unless I'm mistaken?), which would/should bring me up somewhere around 140-ish. If so, I can't really see the benefit of spending another $800 or so on the AEM and Boomslang.

Do you recommend adding 1ZZ injectors with the Blitz?

You don't NEED a wideband for the AFR. You could have them measure it if you dyno your car.

Your exhaust setup still isn't as free flowing as 2.25" headerback, but it IS better than stock. Are you implying you dyno'd 110whp with your current setup? Also, don't trust that supposed "30 whp" gain from the blitz kit." It's probably more like "20 whp."

Again, i don't know what dyno you went on; all are calibrated differently. But I don't think you will hit 140whp with your setup if you just use the blitz piggyback. Maybe you will though on the dyno you have been going on. However, if i went on your same dyno with my setup, it'd probably show "160whp."

If 140whp is the magic # you want to reach, then that's fine. But don't think that if you hit 140 on the dyno you go on, that it is the same as the 140 i hit after retuning with different management.

Trust me, retuning with a different management unleashes a lot more power/potential from the compressor. Up to you if you want to do that or not.

I'd suggest just wire up the piggyback yourself and drive it around like that for awhile. If you are content with the power, great! If not, you have another option with your setup to get more ponies. And that is always a great thing.

[CTScott]

I'd suggest just wire up the piggyback yourself and drive it around like that for awhile. If you are content with the power, great! If not, you have another option with your setup to get more ponies. And that is always a great thing.

+1 on that. I am happier than a pig in poop with mine as-is.

[MGargano]

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to install it as-is for now, see how I like it, and go from there before I jump straight to the management system. Having the option available is always a plus, definitely.

Other than a butt dyno, I haven't taken it anywhere professional yet, I was just doing some raw HP math in my head and coming up with ~140.

Is there a way to get the Scangauge II to display AFR, so I can tell for sure if I'm running lean/rich without taking it to a shop and/or buying a separate AFR gauge?

[cali yaris]

The OBDII gauges I've used have been to slow with respect to AFR readings. Makes it hard to tell if you're running lean or rich at a particular moment in time.

Here's the AEM Analog air/fuel gauge, it's quite a bit less expensive:
http://shop.microimageonline.com/AEM-Analog-Air-Fuel-Gauge-30-5130.htm

[MGargano]

Thanks, Garm. Would it be easier/quicker to just step it up to the 1ZZ injectors now, while I have the fuel rail out, and avoid any potential lean issues altogether? Wouldn't that be the fix if it turned out I was running lean later on- bigger injectors?

It's kind of a catch-22, since I'd hate to spend the $200 on a gauge just to find out I'm running lean, then drop more money on the bigger injectors. On the flip side, I'd hate to spend $200 on a gauge and find out the AFR is where it should be.

Plus, if I spring for the AFR gauge, I'd need a pod to put it in, which means I'd probably also spring for a boost gauge and maybe one other, so now I'm totally conflicted. :laugh:

[CTScott]

The OBDII gauges I've used have been to slow with respect to AFR readings. Makes it hard to tell if you're running lean or rich at a particular moment in time.

Here's the AEM Analog air/fuel gauge, it's quite a bit less expensive:
http://shop.microimageonline.com/AEM-Analog-Air-Fuel-Gauge-30-5130.htm


The AEM gauges look good for the price. OBDII ones are way too slow. With the YarGauge I use the Toyota enhanced diagnostics mode for reading the AFR, so I can sample the AFR faster than I can update my display.

Mike, I really should just loan you my secondary YarGauge test cluster for a week or so after you install yours.

[MGargano]

Looks like I'll be hitting up Garm for that analog AEM gauge. Does having the Blitz installed make installing the AFR gauge any harder/easier, like it did with the boost gauge? And, since I'll probably end up doing both the AFR and Boost gauges, what do you recommend as a third gauge, so I can round out the set and fill a pod?

And Scott, which plugs did you end up using, and what is the correct gap? I keep reading different numbers on all these threads and I'm heading to the auto parts store with my list tomorrow to hopefully begin the install!

[MGargano]

Mike, I really should just loan you my secondary YarGauge test cluster for a week or so after you install yours.

I'd appreciate that, especially since it's such a coveted piece here on YW, but I'm guessing it'd be more beneficial for me have a permanent gauge of my own to keep an eye on? Is there any way to install the A-pillar pod in cars with airbags? My A-pillar says SRS on it, so I'm not sure.

[CTScott]

To install an AFR gauge with sensor, you need to drill and tap, or weld a bung onto the down pipe to mount the gauge's sensor.

I am using NGK Iridium 1X plugs (BKR7EIX-11), which is what Cammell used with it. Iridiums are pre-gapped and aren't supposed to be adjusted, so I left them at their 1.1mm gap (which actually meets the OEM gap spec of 1.0 to 1.1 mm)

[Focus_Sh1ft]

You should absolutely have a boost, AFR, and water temp gauge when going FI. You're gonna need something to read codes as well, otherwise you're left guessing. I'd grab an oil pressure gauge as well. I know it's tempting to cut corners, but you can't be too safe when it comes to monitoring an engine converted to FI.

[cali yaris]

^ You don't have to weld a bung if that's a problem in your area. AEM has a solution for that.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/no-weld-o2-sensor-mount-2-inch-660

http://www.aemelectronics.com/images/30-2355-200.jpg

http://www.aemelectronics.com/images/AEM_No_Weld_O2_Bung.jpg

http://www.aemelectronics.com/images/no_weld_motoiq.jpg

[MGargano]

You should absolutely have a boost, AFR, and water temp gauge when going FI. You're gonna need something to read codes as well, otherwise you're left guessing. I'd grab an oil pressure gauge as well. I know it's tempting to cut corners, but you can't be too safe when it comes to monitoring an engine converted to FI.

Well I have the Scangauge II, which displays water temp and oil pressure, right?

[MGargano]

^ You don't have to weld a bung if that's a problem in your area. AEM has a solution for that.

http://www.aemelectronics.com/no-weld-o2-sensor-mount-2-inch-660

http://www.aemelectronics.com/images/30-2355-200.jpg

http://www.aemelectronics.com/images/AEM_No_Weld_O2_Bung.jpg

http://www.aemelectronics.com/images/no_weld_motoiq.jpg


Garm that's perfect, thanks! I'm not sure where to tap for the AFR, but if it's in the mid-pipe, mine is 2.25" and that looks like it only goes as wide as 2".

[CTScott]

The AFR sensor needs to go somewhere before the cat.

BTW, the scangauge can't measure oil pressure on the Yaris, since it just has an oil pressure switch, as opposed to a pressure sensor.

[MGargano]

The AFR sensor needs to go somewhere before the cat.

BTW, the scangauge can't measure oil pressure on the Yaris, since it just has an oil pressure switch, as opposed to a pressure sensor.

Gotcha. So AFR, possibly boost, and an oil pressure gauge then. Can I mount on of those A-pillar gauge pods on a car with SRS stamped on the OEM A-pillar?

[cali yaris]

mine is 2.25" and that looks like it only goes as wide as 2".

they have 4 or 5 sizes to pick from, each one is for a range of diameters. I can get you the part if you want one.

[CTScott]

Gotcha. So AFR, possibly boost, and an oil pressure gauge then. Can I mount on of those A-pillar gauge pods on a car with SRS stamped on the OEM A-pillar?

You can mount on the A pillar. The airbag isn't actually under the pillar. The reason for the special clip with "SRS" on it is to keep the A pillar cover from becoming a projectile when the curtain airbag pops next to it.

[fnkngrv]

Gotcha. So AFR, possibly boost, and an oil pressure gauge then. Can I mount on of those A-pillar gauge pods on a car with SRS stamped on the OEM A-pillar?

http://www.customgaugepod.com/

Nathan will do you right if you wish to have someone do the work. My pillar is actually on his website. (Adrian)

Tell him that I sent you. If you have him fabricate your pillar he is quick and he will also refab your passenger side so that it matches the driver's side which is a really nice touch.

[MGargano]

http://www.customgaugepod.com/

Nathan will do you right if you wish to have someone do the work. My pillar is actually on his website. (Adrian)

Tell him that I sent you.

So he actually molded the pods into your existing A-pillar? That's pretty cool. I'll definitely get in touch with him. Thanks.

[fnkngrv]

^ Yes he does. I will take an "inside" pic for you tomorrow and PM you so you can check it out. I also edited my post.

[MGargano]

Great, thanks

[fnkngrv]

The OBDII gauges I've used have been to slow with respect to AFR readings. Makes it hard to tell if you're running lean or rich at a particular moment in time.

Here's the AEM Analog air/fuel gauge, it's quite a bit less expensive:
http://shop.microimageonline.com/AEM-Analog-Air-Fuel-Gauge-30-5130.htm


Yup...it seems to work really well at least in my experience thus far.

[LtNoogie]

I have a vacuum/boost gauge, wideband AFR, and oil pressure gauge. I went to a muffler shop and had them weld a bung for the AFR sensor. I'll send you pictures of the ghetto dash setup. :)

I just replied to your PM.

[MGargano]

Thanks, Noogie. I ran into some serious problems after the install was complete, so unfortunately gauges are the least of my worries right now.

With the boost on or off, the car will not stay running unless I keep my foot on the throttle. If I let off the throttle, the RPMs nose-dive and the car stalls. When it is running, it sounds like it's sputtering/coughing/choking, like it's not getting enough gas.

CTScott has been helping me troubleshoot via PM, but no luck so far.

I checked and re-checked the throttle body, vacuum lines, and injectors and also put my old spark plugs back in and there was no change.

There was also no change when I disconnected the fuel controller, eliminating the electrical portion of the supercharger.

I'm at my wit's end, without a car, and ready to spend another whole day ripping this thing back out and praying that solves the problem, unless anyone else has a suggestion?

I'm also not sure if there's a professional place in the Central/Shore NJ area I can even take the car to, to have them diagnose and possibly repair the problem.

[PETERPOOP]

hey i tried to PM you this, but your inbox is full. Not to spam but...

you might want to go on www.microimageonline.com and post your problems on their forums. they have some members there that might be able to help you that dont come on this message board. as far as for me, im not sure what the problem is either. sorry

[LtNoogie]

Do you have a vacuum leak somewhere? I remember from years ago that my old Chevy would idle very rough due to a vacuum leak. It would only run when the throttle was pressed down.

[MGargano]

Do you have a vacuum leak somewhere? I remember from years ago that my old Chevy would idle very rough due to a vacuum leak. It would only run when the throttle was pressed down.

I don't think it's vacuum. I think I would hear some kind of hissing sound if that were the case, right?

[fnkngrv]

Once you get all your troubles hammered out shoot me a PM and I will email you the pic of the interior of my A pillar. Best of luck.

[MGargano]

Once you get all your troubles hammered out shoot me a PM and I will email you the pic of the interior of my A pillar. Best of luck.

Thanks Adrian. I got a reply from Nathan today and he said to let him know when I'm ready to order.

[MGargano]

I've double checked my wiring and everything's going to the correct pin. Can anyone out there recommend a shop I can take this thing to and have it looked at? I'm located in Middletown, NJ, which is Central/Shore NJ. I've checked online but haven't really found anything.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Is your check engine light on while it's trying to run? If it is, get the codes...

[MGargano]

It popped on once last night, when I get my foot on the throttle for about a minute to force the car to keep running. I got CEL and the Scangauge said '2 stored codes'. The first one was blank and the second said P0000. I cleared the codes with the SG and haven't pushed the engine that hard again, since I'm afraid of damaging something worse.

[Bluevitz-rs]

I helped someone out before having trouble and it turned out to be they had the MAF wire in backwards to the fuel controller.

[MGargano]

I helped someone out before having trouble and it turned out to be they had the MAF wire in backwards to the fuel controller.

I just got off the phone with a local shop, who's too busy to take the car in, but he suggested something might be wrong with the MAF also. Which wire is that, so I know which one to look for?

[MGargano]

Every shop I call is either too busy or has no experience with the Yaris, so they're not willing to let me have the car towed in.

[Bluevitz-rs]

If you look on the wiring diagram there should be two wires for the MAF. One takes the signal from the sensor and the other one sends it along to the stock ECU.

So what happens is the fuel controller sees the signal before the computer does and adjusts the signal. If you have it wire in backwards the signal won't be going in the right direction.

Double check that, or just reconnect the MAF to the ECU bypassing the fuel controller and see if that solves the problem.

[MGargano]

If you look on the wiring diagram there should be two wires for the MAF. One takes the signal from the sensor and the other one sends it along to the stock ECU.

So what happens is the fuel controller sees the signal before the computer does and adjusts the signal. If you have it wire in backwards the signal won't be going in the right direction.

Double check that, or just reconnect the MAF to the ECU bypassing the fuel controller and see if that solves the problem.

I keep staring at the wiring diagram and I'm still not sure which wire you're talking about, but it sounds like this one could be the problem, so I'm eager to try it. I'm also not sure how to reconnect the MAF to the ECU and bypass the controller.

http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/techsupport/pdf/wiringdiagram.pdf

[Bluevitz-rs]

OK, VG is you MAF wire. It doesn't look like it's an inline interrupted signal. The controller just looks at the signal and adds more fuel.

Last thing I can suggest then, if you're sure all the wires are in the right spot, is to do a continuity test with an ohm meter on the connections. You can use a small sowing needle to back prob the pins on the ECU. Make sure the connections are all reading 0 ohms.

Edit, Have you tried running the car with the fuel controller disconnected?

[MGargano]

OK, VG is you MAF wire. It doesn't look like it's an inline interrupted signal. The controller just looks at the signal and adds more fuel.

Last thing I can suggest then, if you're sure all the wires are in the right spot, is to do a continuity test with an ohm meter on the connections. You can use a small sowing needle to back prob the pins on the ECU. Make sure the connections are all reading 0 ohms.

Edit, Have you tried running the car with the fuel controller disconnected?

I just disconnected the fuel controller (cut all wires and yanked it out) and still having the same issue

[Bluevitz-rs]

Then the problem I most definitely hardware related to what you installed. If there a leak anywhere the will not run

[MGargano]

Then the problem I most definitely hardware related to what you installed. If there a leak anywhere the will not run

That's what I'm figuring. I'm taking the whole thing out now and keeping my fingers crossed the car runs properly when I'm done.

[MGargano]

Ladies and gentlemen- we have BOOST! Not! Gotcha!

But I pulled everything back out and returned the car to OEM and it's running without an issue!

[MGargano]

Ladies and gentlemen- we have BOOST! Not! Gotcha!

But I pulled everything back out and returned the car to OEM and it's running without an issue!

[Bluevitz-rs]

So there must have been a leak or something letting in un-metered air. Or you had the MAF installed backwards LOL.

[Focus_Sh1ft]

If I let off the throttle, the RPMs nose-dive and the car stalls.

Agreed with Bluevitz; You're letting unmetered air in somewhere, the engine runs lean then dies. It'll be especially noticable while simply idling as compared to driving.

Too bad you don't live a little more north :wink:

[MGargano]

CTScott has been helping me with some suggestions privately and he believes the cause of the problem was the intake manifold gasket that came with the Blitz kit. The one I received was tan and papery (CTScott's was metal) and was used by the kit's previous owner, but I assumed I could reuse it.

It's the only thing either of us could think of. The vacuum hoses were all connected correctly and the wiring obviously wasn't the problem, since the problem continued after I cut all the wiring out. The MAF was connected to the AFE intake as it has been for about two years now, so it couldn't have been that. The only thing that makes sense is the intake manifold gasket, right?

[Bluevitz-rs]

I guess you didn't add any silicone to the gasket when you installed it. The other two entry points would be the top of the unit where the intake is and then further down where the throttle body bolts on.

[borozinski]

I was just gonna ask if you guys who have done the supercharger install use silicone. Sounds like it's a good idea from what happened with you. Sucks it happened, but it good for others to hear. It's made my mind up though, to use it. I have a weapon r themal gasket that goes inbetween the intake manifold and the head. I'm wondering if it'd be a bad idea to sandwich that in with silicone. I wanna keep it, since I know I wouldn't even get close to the money I paid for it.

[MGargano]

I guess you didn't add any silicone to the gasket when you installed it. The other two entry points would be the top of the unit where the intake is and then further down where the throttle body bolts on.

The kit was partially assembled when I received it, so the compressor was already mounted tightly to the intake manifold and I didn't mess with it for fear of breaking any seals and creating a leak.

The throttle body was bolted on just as tightly as it is to the OEM manifold now, so that really only leaves the intake manifold gasket, which I did not use silicone or any kind of gasket sealer on. I assumed it didn't need sealer, since the OEM one doesn't and it didn't look like the previous owner had used any either.

[Bluevitz-rs]

The OEM one is like a giant O-ring though. If the one you're using is paper, then there could be high and low spots on it from being used already.

[MGargano]

The OEM one is like a giant O-ring though. If the one you're using is paper, then there could be high and low spots on it from being used already.

Agreed. This definitely seems like the most likely culprit. Any idea where I can find another gasket for this kit? And is the metal one a better idea than the paper?

[borozinski]

I know you guys are talking about the Blitz kit, but the Greddy instructions say to use silicone on it. Just throwing it out there, lol.

[Bluevitz-rs]

Yeah, just put an 1/8 inch bead of RTV silicone on the gasket, on both sides and around each port and put it back on.

[MGargano]

Yeah, just put an 1/8 inch bead of RTV silicone on the gasket, on both sides and around each port and put it back on.

Use the same paper gasket? Or should I try to find a new one?

[Focus_Sh1ft]

As long as there's no cracks or obvious damage then you can reuse the old one. The key part is definitely the addition of silicone though. I've reused my turbo oil gaskets without any problems - but I always added some silicone when reapplying.

[MGargano]

Thanks for the info guys. I feel confident this gasket was definitely the problem. If it's possible, I'd like to be on the safe side this time and pick up a new gasket. Any idea where I can get one?

[Bluevitz-rs]

You should be able to get one at your local car parts store. I'd still use a thing layer if silicone on a new gasket just to be certain. <-- if it's paper. A metal type one shouldn't require anything.

[MGargano]

All I'm seeing are the OEM o-ring style gaskets from local stores, not the flat type that came with the Blitz kit.

[MUSKOKA800]

The Blitz offering is paper.
The oem gasket is a plastic seal that sits in a groove within the plastic intake (just bought one and found out the hard way. Actually less the CDN$7.00 which surprized me).
Go to a performance shop and buy gasket paper material to make you own (grade 9 auto shop) if Blitz cannot be contacted to supply one. They do seem to be MIA as the website shown on the instruction manual is not valid.

[MGargano]

The Blitz offering is paper.
The oem gasket is a plastic seal that sits in a groove within the plastic intake (just bought one and found out the hard way. Actually less the CDN$7.00 which surprized me).
Go to a performance shop and buy gasket paper material to make you own (grade 9 auto shop) if Blitz cannot be contacted to supply one. They do seem to be MIA as the website shown on the instruction manual is not valid.

Thanks for the info. I'm going to contact Garm to see if he can help me source one of the Blitz gaskets.

[cali yaris]

Blitz USA is no more, all parts must be sourced from Blitz in Japan. I will inquire about it, but this is not something you'd get quickly. I will also look in my spare parts box and see if there is some magic in there. :thumbsup:

[MGargano]

Blitz USA is no more, all parts must be sourced from Blitz in Japan. I will inquire about it, but this is not something you'd get quickly. I will also look in my spare parts box and see if there is some magic in there. :thumbsup:

Thanks Garm. I wasn't aware Blitz USA was no more and I would assume a little thing like the from Japan would take forever and probably wouldn't be worth it. I was hoping someone had an extra laying around they wouldn't mind parting with. :iono:

[borozinski]

Just use some black rtv. The greddy kit only calls for sealant and doesn't even have any gaskets. It'd be cheaper that way to and less time to wait.

[LtNoogie]

If air is leaking in behind the intake manifold, wouldn't that be readable as low vacuum on any hose behind the throttle body?

After you make your new gasket and if you have the same problem, I sugget you put a vacuum gauge on a hose to confirm.

[MGargano]

If air is leaking in behind the intake manifold, wouldn't that be readable as low vacuum on any hose behind the throttle body?

After you make your new gasket and if you have the same problem, I sugget you put a vacuum gauge on a hose to confirm.

In all honesty, if I go through all the trouble of re-installing the kit (using RTV on the gasket) and end up having the same problem, it's coming right back off and going up for sale. :frown:

[PETERPOOP]

You probably should figure it out and not sell it. People might think something is wrong with the kit.

[MGargano]

You probably should figure it out and not sell it. People might think something is wrong with the kit.

I thought of that right after I posted my last message

[Focus_Sh1ft]

Don't give up!

[MGargano]

Don't give up!

I really don't want to, especially after the money I coughed up for this thing, but it's hard since it's my only car and I need it for work everyday.

[cali yaris]

Maybe a few days car rental can be part of the budget? ...just suggesting....

[MGargano]

Maybe a few days car rental can be part of the budget? ...just suggesting....

Definitely an option. I'm sure I'll get it done one way or another, and hopefully sooner rather than later. Besides, I'm saving that budget for a few of those sweet AEM gauges of yours, and hopefully one of those S/C engine covers you used to carry?

[PETERPOOP]

I have one of those S/C engine covers. Black. Used once (believe it or not). I preferred to not have it. Let me know if you want it. PM me.

[cali yaris]

no more unfinished aluminum ones, only black and red here. P-poops will be the best deal!

[kelevra]

Great thread, I'm a learnin' :-)

[CTScott]

Привет.

Привет. Таковы некоторые серьезные датчиков. Есть ли у вас турбо нагнетателя или на yoir Bb?

[yarisugi]

xB? lots of gadgets :)

я сиськи люблю

[Bluevitz-rs]

English translation anyone for the english speaking forum?

[yarisugi]

Copy/paste the sentences in Google translate from Russian to English and you'll understand most of it.
(except for that last sentence "gas distribution shaft"? I would assume as some kind of fuel rail?)

[cali yaris]

Fuel rail:
http://shop.microimageonline.com/Billet-Fuel-Rail-1NZ-GE-1nz-fuelrail.htm

http://shop.microimageonline.com/images/GE-fuelrail-4.jpg