A/C only blowing out of passenger side?

[devinlamothe]

So here's a weird one. The other day I turn my A/C on and it doesn't feel that cold. I thought, OK, it IS really hot so maybe it needs time to cool down the air.

Not the case. I felt the passenger side centre duct and it was freezing, as was the passenger vent by the window. It's strange since the centre duct is ONE unit with just a splitter on the dash...

Does anyone know what I can check? Obviously the A/C is working fine but it seems I am not getting much cold air at all from the drivers side. I've checked the obvious so far (ie: removed cabin filter, checked the centre dash vent for obstructions).

:confused:

[CTScott]

Try closing the passenger one and see if the driver's side one starts blowing or perhaps some debris or a critter come popping out.

[devinlamothe]

Try closing the passenger one and see if the driver's side one starts blowing or perhaps some debris or a critter come popping out.

I will try that and let you know.

I think it's strange though how the centre duct can have two separate temps even though they come from a single duct ... lol.

[CTScott]

I will try that and let you know.

I think it's strange though how the centre duct can have two separate temps even though they come from a single duct ... lol.

Exactly - That's why I suspect a critter making its home in there.

[devinlamothe]

Exactly - That's why I suspect a critter making its home in there.

So I did what you said and I even took my dash apart and looked inside and nothing was there blocking anything. Checked all the mechanical actuators to make sure the doors were opening when I changed the settings and they worked too.

Could it be I just need a recharge? Never had one done before.

[CTScott]

So I did what you said and I even took my dash apart and looked inside and nothing was there blocking anything. Checked all the mechanical actuators to make sure the doors were opening when I changed the settings and they worked too.

Could it be I just need a recharge? Never had one done before.

Maybe. Usually when it needs to be charged, the output never gets cold. It seems odd that the center and passenger side are blowing cold.

[devinlamothe]

Maybe. Usually when it needs to be charged, the output never gets cold. It seems odd that the center and passenger side are blowing cold.

Well now it's working again. After taking the dash apart and checking everything, I put everything back together and was like hmm I will check the H and L ports on the AC lines. The H cap was kind of loose so I tightened it. Also, I checked the AC temp monitor on the front bumper and it had fallen off the mount, so I used some zip ties and put it back.

For some reason one of those things fixed the issue. I now have mostly the same temp from all vents.

[devinlamothe]

Maybe. Usually when it needs to be charged, the output never gets cold. It seems odd that the center and passenger side are blowing cold.

OK now today it's not working again. The drivers sides never get cold while the passenger side gets cool but not as cold as it should be.

I'm thinking it just needs to be recharged.

EDIT: Just an update, I checked the 'sight glass' on my AC and its bubbling like mad so yeah, low on refrigerant. Time to recharge!!

[devinlamothe]

Update on this: Took it in to Toyota for a regular oil change and got them to check the AC just for the fun of it. The guy did a pressure test and said there was barely any Freon left.

They said it was most likely a small leak so they recharged the whole thing and added the dye ... told me to come back in a couple of days to check to see if they could find the leak. Depending on where the leak is I may or may not get the repair done right away as it could end up being $$$$$$$$$$$ to fix.

[devinlamothe]

Another update ... it's the sight glass!

Is there an o-ring seal under it? Because there's no way in hell I am replacing the entire Liquid line ($450 part) just because of the sight glass.

[CTScott]

Another update ... it's the sight glass!

Is there an o-ring seal under it? Because there's no way in hell I am replacing the entire Liquid line ($450 part) just because of the sight glass.

No, it's all one piece. That line lists for under $200.

[devinlamothe]

No, it's all one piece. That line lists for under $200.

Ugh. Well that sucks. It even looks like you can pop the glass out ... but of course they would make you replace the whole line. Our local shop has the part for $468 (LOL), but I see TRD Sparks has it for $166 plus shipping ... so I think I'll grab it there.

I just hope labour isn't $$$$.

[CTScott]

Ugh. Well that sucks. It even looks like you can pop the glass out ... but of course they would make you replace the whole line. Our local shop has the part for $468 (LOL), but I see TRD Sparks has it for $166 plus shipping ... so I think I'll grab it there.

I just hope labour isn't $$$$.

You could self install it and then just have them purge and fill it. It's too bad that I threw away all of Crashy's under hood A/C components. Her compressor was cracked, so I pulled it off along with the lines. I didn't realize how valuable they were.

[devinlamothe]

You could self install it and then just have them purge and fill it. It's too bad that I threw away all of Crashy's under hood A/C components. Her compressor was cracked, so I pulled it off along with the lines. I didn't realize how valuable they were.

I would self install, however they JUST recharged the entire system with dye and refrigerant so I would have to have it purged again. Not a big deal I suppose... also, I would have to figure out how to remove and install the line, haha.

EDIT: Never mind it looks really easy to do it myself ... just some bolts and O-Rings for seals.

[devinlamothe]

Actually I have a quick question for those of you who know about AC systems.

Do I have to replace the drier at the same time as the line? I'm getting conflicting answers saying it you change any part you should replace the drier at the same time to prevent any moisture in the system, but I don't know.

[CTScott]

Actually I have a quick question for those of you who know about AC systems.

Do I have to replace the drier at the same time as the line? I'm getting conflicting answers saying it you change any part you should replace the drier at the same time to prevent any moisture in the system, but I don't know.

The general rule of thumb with A/C is that you do replace the drier when replacing parts on a leaking system, but considering that yours still had some freon in it (i.e. did not completely vent), you would be safe with not replacing it.

[devinlamothe]

The general rule of thumb with A/C is that you do replace the drier when replacing parts on a leaking system, but considering that yours still had some freon in it (i.e. did not completely vent), you would be safe with not replacing it.

Well when I replace the liquid line I'm going to have to have the entire system evacuated aren't I? I don't want to have any of the 134a vent to the atmosphere.

I ordered a replacement drier desiccant bag anyways (I think it was $28).

[CTScott]

Well when I replace the liquid line I'm going to have to have the entire system evacuated aren't I? I don't want to have any of the 134a vent to the atmosphere.

I ordered a replacement drier desiccant bag anyways (I think it was $28).

Correct. It will have to be evacuated before replacing the part, and then again once the part is on to remove any particulate and moisture.

[devinlamothe]

Correct. It will have to be evacuated before replacing the part, and then again once the part is on to remove any particulate and moisture.

Alright good. Glad I ordered a replacement then.

Hoping I can get the replacement line in a couple of weeks because August is going to be hot. :cool:

[devinlamothe]

One more thing: I'm looking at the part numbers for the line and I see the following:

88706A TUBE SUB-ASSY, LIQUID, A
88706‑52440 AIR CONDITIONER-MANUAL(B/RESI COMP/VARI) 1 $489.67
88706‑52450 AIR CONDITIONER-DEALER KIT 1 $427.83

What's the difference? I think 88706‑52440 is the correct part but I just want to be sure before I order it.

[CTScott]

One more thing: I'm looking at the part numbers for the line and I see the following:

88706A TUBE SUB-ASSY, LIQUID, A
88706‑52440 AIR CONDITIONER-MANUAL(B/RESI COMP/VARI) 1 $489.67
88706‑52450 AIR CONDITIONER-DEALER KIT 1 $427.83

What's the difference? I think 88706‑52440 is the correct part but I just want to be sure before I order it.

I saw that as well in the EPC. I am not sure what exactly the difference is. If you PM me your VIN, I can see which ones shows up relative to your VIN.

[CTScott]

OK - From your VIN, just the 88706‑52440 part number is highlighted in green, indicating that it is the part used on your car.

[devinlamothe]

OK - From your VIN, just the 88706‑52440 part number is highlighted in green, indicating that it is the part used on your car.

Sweet thanks, that is the one I order then. :biggrin:

[devinlamothe]

Haha so I brought it back to the dealership for S&G and they said it was going to be $558 for the part and $336 for the labour. Plus when I asked about the dryer unit they said they wouldn't replace it ... NO THANKS!

I ended up getting the parts for just over $200CAD and will do the install myself. Also, Toyota will do the evac/refill for $100 with no charge on the freon since my system is still considered "full."

[devinlamothe]

Just an update:

Removed the old AC line today and installed the new one. What a B*** to take out and install LOL. The easiest way is to remove the passenger headlamp, take off the front bumper cover, and also there is a meaningless metal support strap on the LOW pressure line that you have to remove before you can get it back on without bending the crap out of the line.

I took my time and it was roughly 1h:30 minutes, FAR from the 3h:30 the dealership quoted me (they said it would take me 5 hours since I wasn't pro).

Can't wait to see the look on their faces tomorrow when I get it recharged.

PS: I hope nothing leaks tomorrow otherwise I will be right embarrassed lol.

PPS: I didn't replace the receiver/dryer on my car since for some reason it is different than what the repair manual states. It says that the top and bottom have a 10mm hex removal point but mine was an entirely self contained unit with no way of removing it unless I replaced the entire condenser. I had someone else look at it and they said most likely it would be fine. So now I have an extra receiver/drier desiccant bag with no use.