Idjiit
04-30-2006, 01:01 PM
Sorry I didn't do a full step-by-step on this one, but I was short on time. The procedure is fairly straight forward, but let me know if you've got any questions. For details on removing the stock seats and related info, go here: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=312
The Sparco brackets had to be raised a bit to get clearance over the slider bolts - this isn't absolutely necessary, but if you don't do it the seat will be about a half inch, maybe an inch off center (to the left of the steering column). I can afford the space, so I went ahead and did it "right".
This was done by removing the stock seat from the stock slider rails, and using the rails/seat base as the base for the Sparco. I used flat steel stock to create some cross-bracing. Steel L-stock was used to attach the receiving side of the seatbelt.
There's a couple caveats with this solution:
A) It's heavy. As noted earlier the stock setup is 37lbs - the Sparco setup is 34lbs. Not a big savings. This is a combination of things - the stock seat base is heavy, and the metal cross braces I used are quite heavy since I used the heaviest gauge steel I could find.
B) It's not very clean looking. Keep in mind that the seat in relation to the base is offset to the right about 3 inches, so with the narrow Sparco base it's inevitable that you're going to see all the hardware. A fixed base setup would look much cleaner.
C) Ideally 2 screws would be used for each side of the cross braces to increase strength, but this would most likely require welding, which is outside my skillset.
Underside, showing cross-braces:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2175_reduced.jpg
Closeup of part of seatbelt sensor. Not sure if this is just detected whether the seatbelt is attached, or if it's also measuring weight on the steel (measuring difference in resistance in "empty" vs. "seated"? I'm not sure - I know the passenger side detects weight, I'm not sure about the driver's side):
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2176_reduced.jpg
The plug that attaches to the car itself:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2177_reduced.jpg
Side view showing how far the slider mechanism protrudes. I could have had this further back by using a different set of screw on the slider rails, but it would have meant that I had more rail at the back protruding into the passenger area, which I need for the storage setup I have planned:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2179_reduced.jpg
Belt L-bracket before painting - note that the seat at this point is moved forward on the rails. Normally the back of the L-bracket would be flush with the back of the seat base:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2180_reduced.jpg
Detail of L-bracket, which is mounted underneath cross-braces. This corresponds with extra height on the left side, do to the slider-release mechanism, although it's a bit thicker than it should be, I may add washers to the other side later, but you certainly can't feel the difference:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2183_reduced.jpg
Installed - note that the belt has been looped through the seat so it's taught against my belly (I'm 6', 140lbs - if you're bigger you may not need to do this):
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2168_reduced.jpg
Close Up of the exposed slider bracket. Sorry, no OEM look here...
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2170_reduced.jpg
From the Outside:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2172_reduced.jpg
All told with this setup, I can go as low as 3 inches below stock. I currently have it at 2 1/2 inches, but I think I'll either tilt the front up slightly or bring the whole thing up 1/2 an inch. The unfortunate thing is that you're really limited by the angle of adjustment on the steering wheel. If you had it down 3 inches you'd really have to reach up to get to the steering wheel, which is a bit awkward.
The Sparco brackets had to be raised a bit to get clearance over the slider bolts - this isn't absolutely necessary, but if you don't do it the seat will be about a half inch, maybe an inch off center (to the left of the steering column). I can afford the space, so I went ahead and did it "right".
This was done by removing the stock seat from the stock slider rails, and using the rails/seat base as the base for the Sparco. I used flat steel stock to create some cross-bracing. Steel L-stock was used to attach the receiving side of the seatbelt.
There's a couple caveats with this solution:
A) It's heavy. As noted earlier the stock setup is 37lbs - the Sparco setup is 34lbs. Not a big savings. This is a combination of things - the stock seat base is heavy, and the metal cross braces I used are quite heavy since I used the heaviest gauge steel I could find.
B) It's not very clean looking. Keep in mind that the seat in relation to the base is offset to the right about 3 inches, so with the narrow Sparco base it's inevitable that you're going to see all the hardware. A fixed base setup would look much cleaner.
C) Ideally 2 screws would be used for each side of the cross braces to increase strength, but this would most likely require welding, which is outside my skillset.
Underside, showing cross-braces:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2175_reduced.jpg
Closeup of part of seatbelt sensor. Not sure if this is just detected whether the seatbelt is attached, or if it's also measuring weight on the steel (measuring difference in resistance in "empty" vs. "seated"? I'm not sure - I know the passenger side detects weight, I'm not sure about the driver's side):
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2176_reduced.jpg
The plug that attaches to the car itself:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2177_reduced.jpg
Side view showing how far the slider mechanism protrudes. I could have had this further back by using a different set of screw on the slider rails, but it would have meant that I had more rail at the back protruding into the passenger area, which I need for the storage setup I have planned:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2179_reduced.jpg
Belt L-bracket before painting - note that the seat at this point is moved forward on the rails. Normally the back of the L-bracket would be flush with the back of the seat base:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2180_reduced.jpg
Detail of L-bracket, which is mounted underneath cross-braces. This corresponds with extra height on the left side, do to the slider-release mechanism, although it's a bit thicker than it should be, I may add washers to the other side later, but you certainly can't feel the difference:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2183_reduced.jpg
Installed - note that the belt has been looped through the seat so it's taught against my belly (I'm 6', 140lbs - if you're bigger you may not need to do this):
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2168_reduced.jpg
Close Up of the exposed slider bracket. Sorry, no OEM look here...
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2170_reduced.jpg
From the Outside:
http://www.swiftbennett.com/images/yaris/_W8F2172_reduced.jpg
All told with this setup, I can go as low as 3 inches below stock. I currently have it at 2 1/2 inches, but I think I'll either tilt the front up slightly or bring the whole thing up 1/2 an inch. The unfortunate thing is that you're really limited by the angle of adjustment on the steering wheel. If you had it down 3 inches you'd really have to reach up to get to the steering wheel, which is a bit awkward.