Foglights failed to work for a short while...

[skeck]

My foglights failed to work this early evening after never having a problem since their install a month ago. Then about ten mnutes ago they came on after I had the switch on for a minute, they just suddenly came back on. It rained today so i am wondering if possibly something got wet and caused this? I checked the lenses themselves and there was zero condensation inside, so they are sealed. Next thought is to check where the wires go into the back of the lights to ensure it is sealed tight enough where the connection is. The dash light was still coming on for the fogs even when they weren't working, so i am assuming it is not the connection anywhere but where the lights connect themselves, but what do i know. Anyone have any ideas for what may be causing this or how I could verify? Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer.

[cali yaris]

Did they come from me?

[skeck]

No, everything I have gotten from you has worked perfectly :) They came back on then went off again. Waiting for rain to let up here then I am going to start by checking the bulbs, etc. The bulbs are only a few eeks old, but they did come on the cheap from ebay

[skeck]

Okay...update...I checked the bulbs, replaced the fuse, checked the ground, and the switch lights up, I can hear a click when the switch lights up as it would normally sound when trigerring them, but still no damn lights. Any ideas?

[Stove]

Do you have a multimeter or a test light? Start checking to see where you have power. I'd probably start by checking the switch to see if it has power out of it. Sounds like it has power in if its lighting up but double check anyways. Work from there to see where the power loss is. Double check all of your connections as you go. Check your fuses with your meter and you wont have to replace them unless needed.

[skeck]

Thanks Stove. So far I have now replaced the bulbs, checked all the connections, replaced the fuse and the dash light and switch lights both work. I was a bit concerned when the lights came without a fuse on the line going from power to the lamps, so I am sure now it has to be that the lamps themselves are done for. I am ordering a new set of lamps and installing a fuse between the power and the lamps, and hopefully that will do the trick.

[skeck]

But, maybe Stove you are right and I try and save myself any more unneeeded expenses and buy a tester to make sure power is getting to them. In an "ah ha" moment I am thinking today I will connect another light to the positive wire from the fogs and then ground the ohter wire for the light to see if there is indeed power going to them and this way I can avoid buying a tester. So basically, I think I just figured out my own solution while I was rambling here. We will see.

[skeck]

Case closed...Lights are working again. Tried another set of lights, found no power going to line. Checked wiring in fusebox and wire had burnt up. Higher gage wire utilized (other than the cheapo 16 gauge that came with the fogs) and added 20 amp fuse between the fusebox and the fogs and presto...foglights returned.

[Stove]

^ :thumbup:

[dzcab]

Hey not to highjack this thread but my fogs started acting up
Today. They are flashing on and off very rapidly so is the dashboard indicator and underneath my steering wheel they are making noise like it's arcing but it's not. Does anyone have an idea what it can be. I was thinking it was a relay.

[CTScott]

Hey not to highjack this thread but my fogs started acting up
Today. They are flashing on and off very rapidly so is the dashboard indicator and underneath my steering wheel they are making noise like it's arcing but it's not. Does anyone have an idea what it can be. I was thinking it was a relay.

It probably is the relay, but due to a loose pin on the headlight stalk connector. Pop the lower steering column cover and check your connections.

[dzcab]

I don't see anything that can be loose. I went and checked yesterday and now it is not make the flickering noise like it was and when I turn the light switch on now they do not work at all. The switch is still lit and occasionally would flicker but the fog light would not come on. I took the relay out and it looks fine, I cannot tell if it is no good since I do not know how to test I went to radio shack and local auto parts but no one carries that relay. Where can I look next?

[CTScott]

I don't see anything that can be loose. I went and checked yesterday and now it is not make the flickering noise like it was and when I turn the light switch on now they do not work at all. The switch is still lit and occasionally would flicker but the fog light would not come on. I took the relay out and it looks fine, I cannot tell if it is no good since I do not know how to test I went to radio shack and local auto parts but no one carries that relay. Where can I look next?

You can test the relay with a multimeter and a 9 volt battery. If you put the 9 volt battery to the two coil contacts (see my line drawing below) the relay will click on. When it is on the contacts will close, so with a multimeter you can check between the two contacts. They should be open when the 9 volt battery is not on the coils and closed when it is.


- Contact
- Contact
|| Coil

[dzcab]

You can test the relay with a multimeter and a 9 volt battery. If you put the 9 volt battery to the two coil contacts (see my line drawing below) the relay will click on. When it is on the contacts will close, so with a multimeter you can check between the two contacts. They should be open when the 9 volt battery is not on the coils and closed when it is.


- Contact
- Contact
|| Coil


When I do this what should the multimeter say or what setting should I put it on. I have never done this before and I have someone letting me use their multimeter.

Thanks

[CTScott]

When I do this what should the multimeter say or what setting should I put it on. I have never done this before and I have someone letting me use their multimeter.

Thanks

If the multimeter has a "continuity setting" (sometimes has a diode symbol to indicate that setting ->|- ) you can set it on that and when you do the meter should beep if you touch its probes together. If it does, then use that setting and it should beep when you have the tips on the two contact terminals and touch the 9V batter to the two coil terminals.

If the one you borrowed doesn't have "continuity" then put it in Resistance mode (Ohms). If it has multiple ranges for resistance, it doesn't matter which you use. In resistance mode it will say something like "OL" on the screen with the probes not touching anything and if you touch them together it should go down to zero (or mighty close there to). Same as above, when you touch the 9volt battery to the coil terminals the reading should change to just like you touched the probes together (that is it should be near zero).

[dzcab]

Well I was lucky enough to get a new relay from MI, but it is still not working. I have gone over all connections and everything is connected in order. Then switch lights up but it does not work. I opened the switch up and when I move the bulb that is not lit It flickers for a milli second but it is so fast that I do not get to see if the lights are on or if the indicator on dash flickers as well. I'm baffled, I've check all connections and fuse and relay and can't think of anything else than, if bulbs go out on fogs will that make the switch not light up or will it also make the indicator on dash to not come on? That's the only thing I can think of. When it started giving me problems the fogs were flickering and so was the indicator on dash and I heard flickering noise from under the dash so I assumed it was the relay,but then it stopped doing completely and just has not worked since but switch is lit.

[CTScott]

Did you wire them with the relay harness that was included, or did you use the OEM wiring with the aftermarket switch?

[dzcab]

I used the relay Provided in kit and it is wired to oem switch included that is run to the middle behind shifter. I think the switch maybe the problem. I used a light tester on the switch and when I make contact with the light part of circuit board on switch it works and lights up. When I take it of it shuts off. I am thinking that maybe the solder on switch is not making good contact cause it works when I jump switch with light tester. I ran the fogs direct to battery and they light up. the switch will ocasionally work it if I jiggle the circuit board and push in the on position. How can be sure it is the switch?

[CTScott]

I would definitely suspect the switch. Some of the aftermarket fog kits use really poor quality switches.

[EPyarisdriver]

This save me today from another sleepless night. Switched the fuses and now on and work perfect!!! YES!

[Ratz]

I just prepared little troubleshooting guide for fog lamps. I hope someone will get some use from it.

http://www3.telus.net/oceanready/Fog%20lamp%20relay.jpg

Top horizontal slot goes to fog lamps. If you apply 12 Volt current to this slot fog lamps should illuminate. If not, the bulbs are burned out or there is open in the wiring to the lamps. If you take VOM and check the resistance from the top horizontal slot and your positive pin plugged to the bulb (removed for testing purpose) and you find continuity, then your positive wire is OK and you need to check the ground wire from bulb plug to ground on vehicle body or frame.
If you have only a test light connect the clip to the battery positive terminal and touch this slot with tip of the test light. the light should be lit.

Second horizontal slot from the top is a power supply to the fog lamps. This terminal should be alive (positive 12 Volts) all the time. If not it is likely fuse problem, but could be that wire got loose from power supply. If you have only a test light, connect the clip of the light anywhere on the body (not painted or rusted surface) and with the tip touch this slot. Light should be on. If not change the fuse.

If you place a jumper between the two top horizontal slots the fog lamps will come on with some arcing as the draw will be about 6 to 8 Amperes for stock lamps.

Left vertical bar goes to fog lamp switch. Please note that the switching is done by ground. If you have only a test light, connect the clip of the light to the battery positive terminal and touch this slot with the tip of the test light. While turning the fog lamp switch on the light should come on. If not it is likely the switch.

The right vertical slot must have power for relay to operate. This one is little tricky as it depends how the fog lamps were wired in. # 1 is the OEM way. 1) Fog lamps turn on only with the low beams. 2) Fog lamps turn on with the parking lights, low beams or high beams. 3) Fog lamps turn on anytime. If you have only a test light, connect the clip of the light anywhere on the body (not painted or rusted surface) and with the tip touch this slot. The light should light up. If not, turn headlamps low beam. If test light still does not come on it is likely the headlamp switch.

If all tests pass, it is likely the relay.

[EPyarisdriver]

What if everything works you just dont hear the little tick you usually hear when the lights turn on. Is it still the relay? Im running a bigger fuse so would I need a better relay?

[Ratz]

"What if everything works you just don't hear the little tick you usually hear when the lights turn on. Is it still the relay? I am running a bigger fuse so would I need a better relay?"

Explain what you mean by “What if everything works”. Do you mean all the tests are satisfactory according to my post? Or your lights work fine and you do not hear a click of the relay?
By running bigger (I assume larger Amperage) fuse, you do not need a bigger relay. Larger fuse then specified by the manufacturer could have negative effect on your wiring in case of short or higher light draw as wiring could become overheated and melt in process.

You can test the relay by mirroring the four terminals on the relay when you remove it. Take it to the battery and touch the positive side of relay to positive battery post. Than take a piece of any wire and touch the terminal I referred to in the picture as “Ground controlled by fog lamp switch” to battery negative terminal and you should hear the relay click. If it does not it is likely a failed relay. There is few of them on eBay. Our cost in Canada is about $120. Part numbers are 9098702020 for the 2011 and 9098702022 or 9098702027 for earlier models.

[EPyarisdriver]

All the tests passed but now Im gonna try checking the relay with the battery and see if I can hear it.
And what I meant is the lights do NOT work.
Sorry for the confusion

[Ratz]

All the tests passed but now Im gonna try checking the relay with the battery and see if I can hear it.
And what I meant is the lights do NOT work.
Sorry for the confusion

Further to what I wrote:

You can test the relay by mirroring the four terminals on the relay when you remove it. Take it to the battery and touch the positive side of relay to positive battery post. Than take a piece of any wire and touch the terminal I referred to in the picture as “Ground controlled by fog lamp switch” to battery negative terminal and you should hear the relay click. If it does not it is likely a failed relay.

Some relays can be really quiet (unusual) so while you are applying power to the above stated terminals and listening for the click, in addition you can connect a ohmmeter to the two remaining terminal. Set the ohmmeter to 200 Ohms scale and watch the gauge while you are connecting relay to the battery. You should see a deflection in the ohmmeter display. If you want to practice what you should be seeing in the ohmmeter display, just with the same setting touch the leads of the ohmmeter together and watch the screen. It should change providing your meter is turned on and battery in the meter is good.

If you used VOM before I apologize for the detailed description.