Need new Serpentine/Auxilliary belt

[ras3448]

My belt squeaks upon vehicle ignition.
Further inspection shows small lateral lacerations along the length of the belt.
I tried a 'squeaky belt lubrication' aerosol spray, to no avail.
I assume I will need a new belt; Autozone had one for ~$17.

Does anyone want to suggest a certain brand/specification of belt?
Know any DIYs w/images for removing and installing the serpentine belt? (entry level DIY-er here:iono:)

[NZ-FE Vios]

I don't have a DIY but it should be relatively simple. I'd buy a genuine Toyota belt, its not much more if any.

Just make note of how it is attached,

then loosen alternator (there are a few bolts, one that needs to be loosened on the tensioner bar which is at top of alternator and two at the bottom where alternator bolts to block may need to be loosened too) until the belt slips off.

Place new belt in the same configuration.

Gently retighten the alternator until belt mostly taught but not too tight.

[nisyota]

do you think the tighter it is the noise will still be present???

[ilikerice]

the belt dressing is really just used for diagnosis.. If the squeel stops after u apply, but shortly returns, belt is dry-rotted and time for replacement.. I suggest OEM belts from toyota. aftermarket belts stretch way to much

[NZ-FE Vios]

do you think the tighter it is the noise will still be present???

If the belt is showing wear, it won't matter how tight it is, it will still squeak and need to be replaced.

Also, if you overtighten, you can throw the water pump bearing. And in that case it just would have been better buying a new belt.

[nisyota]

so, pretty much from what you're telling me is that the only belt that won't squeal is the OEM belt??

[NZ-FE Vios]

In the long run, yes. Short term any will be fine.

The bottom line is that a Toyota manufactured belt is made specifically to your Toyota. Aftermarket companies takes specs and makes one to similar specification. I'd much rather pay an extra couple of bucks for oem.

[nisyota]

how much will the dealership charge me? or, buying online be better?

[RedRide]

In the long run, yes. Short term any will be fine.

The bottom line is that a Toyota manufactured belt is made specifically to your Toyota. Aftermarket companies takes specs and makes one to similar specification. I'd much rather pay an extra couple of bucks for oem.

I doubt that. Toyota (like all manufactures) use a stock size/type that fits any given aplication.
The stock yaris belt is nothing special and is of average quality.

[NZ-FE Vios]

I doubt that. Toyota (like all manufactures) use a stock size/type that fits any given aplication.
The stock yaris belt is nothing special and is of average quality.

If the Toyota one is of average quality, then what maker would be high quality?

[A-Dingo-Ate-My-Baby]

If the Toyota one is of average quality, then what maker would be high quality?

the ones you pay more for

Toyota specs average belts.. but ones that 100% are not crap, so they
will definitely last. [1 in 100,000 failures can still occur like anything else.]

Avoid any crap parts, and the average part will
be assumed to be best quality because it will last forever anyway

[RedRide]

If the Toyota one is of average quality, then what maker would be high quality?

Many prople rave about "Goodyear Gator Back" belts.

[nisyota]

Many prople rave about "Goodyear Gator Back" belts.


i have that belt and its still squeeking...

[NZ-FE Vios]

Toyota is definitely the best and highest quality belt for oem Toyota applications.

[Klink10]

Ditto everything NZ-FE Vios has said. Particularly the part about overtighten and possible waterpump failure. To me the belt sounds like it has dried out and is loose. Replace, don't overtighten, run it for a bit and then re-tighten. Alot of folks forget that the initial stretch happens almost instantly and the belt needs another adjustment.

[NZ-FE Vios]

Thank you. The belt tensioning (or to beware of overtensioning) is the advice of a Toyota tech friend of mine.

[ras3448]

Y'all sold me on the OEM belt. None of the autoparts stores had it though.
Do I need to order online? Like this?:

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/multi_rib_belt/toyota/yaris.html

I also found an old thread about this, but I'm still a bit hesitant to dive in there.
I could use an image to help me visualize my task. MS paint would do.. :)

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20766

[yariseggvvti]

My yaris has 60000 miles. When i start up the car in the morning, i hear the belt makes noise. After a few minutes the noise is gone and back to normal. Do i need to replace belt or tensioner. Thanks!

[Klink10]

Ras....The pic supplied by CT Scott in your 2nd link shows very clearly the 2nd bolt holding the alt. to the engine. The 1st being the one that you can see on top holding it to the adjustment arm. The whole idea is to loosen the alt. to allow it to swivel taking tension off enough to unwrap the belt from around the pulleys. You need to loosen the upper bolt, loosen the lower bolt thus allowing it to swivel or move forwards or rearwards on the loosend bottom bolt. The kicker is the bottom bolt can be a bear. This is where proper tools and some diligence comes in. Tools being the right drive sizes and adapters and ratchets to get in there and securely hold that bolt head allowing you to apply enough force to get it loose. If I remember right I used a 1/2 in drive for initial loosening and the switched to 3/8 for removal. (Removed alt cause I was replacing pulleys). Another tip is to look at where the upper bolt passes thru the adjustment arm. Draw a line on the alt with a magic marker at that point making sure it leaves a mark on the arm. When everything is back together and the belt is correctly mounted, rotate the alt. towards the front of the vehicle to take up tension. Here is where the big crowbar comes into play. You need to find a place on the block where you can place the crowbar to leverage the alt. out to a point close to but not there where the mark is on the alt. and the arm. Be sure you don't come close to anything that is not engine and alt. housing and the possibility of slipping with it is eliminated. I wrapped mine with a cloth shop rag. You should come up just short of that point because we are dealing with a new belt. The just short of might not be noticeable but I am leary of going beyond that point. That brings in might be wrong belt size. Okay all is on and bolts are tight and a thumb press on the belt indicates the belt is tight. Start motor and allow to run or go to store or whatever. Belt has broken in now so loosen both bolts rotate alt. forward again to take up that break-in slack and you should be at the magic marker point. Tighten everything back down and you have just become an official belt replacement tech on a Yaris.

I hope this helps and I didn't confuse things. Make sure of your capabilities cause I don't want a comeback saying well I did this and I broke this. That break this can be expensive. Overtighten can make you into a master tech cause then we are looking at waterpump.

On to Yariseggvti:

Sounds as thought all you need to do is adjust the tension or snug it up a little. But while you are there take a look at it. Feel dry?, Notice any cracks or splits? Maybe need to replace.

Whew, done for the day, think I'll take a nap.

[NZ-FE Vios]

Very well said. I just assume everyone knows their way around an engine compartment. Again, very thorough.

[macz100]

'09 yaris HB , AT , 71K .
bought the belt , loosened the top bolt . but the bottom just won't come loose. used wd-40 . i have an extra long ratchet but am hesitant to put that much force and break something. any other suggestions.?

[esse10]

'09 yaris HB , AT , 71K .
bought the belt , loosened the top bolt . but the bottom just won't come loose. used wd-40 . i have an extra long ratchet but am hesitant to put that much force and break something. any other suggestions.?

I did mine two weeks ago and it was a little challange to loosen up the bottom bolt. I used a swivel ratchet with a long handle and put something behind the ratchet head and the frame to keep the socket from slipping off as you get it loose. Make sure you use a six point socket not an eight better chances of not rounding up the head. Putting a little pb blaster as best you can will help also just don't over spray that stuff is strong. Don't forget to put anti-sieze on the threads when you put the bottom bolt back on for next time. Good luck to ya