Where do these cars rust?

[CoryM]

Hey guys,

Sorry to mention the unmentionable but someone in a salty part of the world must have been unfortunate enough to learn where these cars rust. Just would like to know so as to take steps to avoid it on mine.

My wiper blade arm is rusting under the paint. Going to see if warranty will cover it. If not I will take it off and fix it.

Thanks for any input.
Cory

[vector9mm]

I have read of problemsin the snowy states with the anti lock bracks corroding. If you have ABS, you may want to do a search on that.

[yaris2010RS]

i have yet to see a yaris rusted out, from what i have seen with toyotas, they rust at the bottom of the doors and the bottom of the rear hatch/trunk/tailgate


reference: 2001 Camry, 1999 4 Runner, 1987 corolla (wheel wells also), 2003 Matrix(metal around door handle)

the Echo had quite a bit of hood rot

[MickZEL]

Hey guys,

Sorry to mention the unmentionable but someone in a salty part of the world must have been unfortunate enough to learn where these cars rust. Just would like to know so as to take steps to avoid it on mine.

My wiper blade arm is rusting under the paint. Going to see if warranty will cover it. If not I will take it off and fix it.

Thanks for any input.
Cory
I live in Russia, we have a lot of snow in the winter too, I too worried about this issue.
You can show pictures?

[anthpace]

I had this Issue myself. They aren't rusted. - They are corroding. The Wipers are made of aluminium. I just sanded them down to bare, and resprayed them.

[jambo101]

Hey guys,

Sorry to mention the unmentionable but someone in a salty part of the world must have been unfortunate enough to learn where these cars rust. Just would like to know so as to take steps to avoid it on mine.

My wiper blade arm is rusting under the paint. Going to see if warranty will cover it. If not I will take it off and fix it.

Thanks for any input.
Cory

Look up a local rust protection place and have them spray the car with oil, you'll never see rust for as long as you want to keep the car.
Applications usually cost $100 per year ''
I like the Krown system but there are plenty of others..

http://www.krown.com/#process/

[Klink10]

I had this Issue myself. They aren't rusted. - They are corroding. The Wipers are made of aluminium. I just sanded them down to bare, and resprayed them.

Not sure what a "F" model Vitz looks like but if the wiper blades on it are aluminum and they fit a stateside Yaris can you get me a set? Pics would be nice.

[joe keeney]

Texas they don't I can even find a muffler shop around here.

[Yury]

I am yet to see a rusted Yaris or Echo in our salty locale. From the looks of it the rear quarters may become a problem with the way the sheet metal bends in at the lip. Dirt does accumulate there. On the other hand there's some kind antirust coating there. I wonder if it's provides enough coverage though.

[DebbyM46227]

I don't think any Yaris' are old enough to rust yet. My Honda CRX wasn't rust-proofed and it started when the car was 6 years old, right above the rear wheel well, where they all do.

[WeeYari]

The hundreds of spots were stones violate the cheap ass paint on these cars.

[RedRide]

All paint is "cheap" on modern cars compared to cars made years ago. This is due to lead no longer being use in paint which gave automotive paint its hardness and durability.

It's something we all have to live with since leaded paint has be outlawed.

[Yury]

I don't think any Yaris' are old enough to rust yet. My Honda CRX wasn't rust-proofed and it started when the car was 6 years old, right above the rear wheel well, where they all do.

same with my 93 civic, the perforation started at 6 years of age.
pretty much all hondas have problems with rear quarters, including my prelude where I had it fixed recently.

[Hamster]

Is six years typical when rust starts appearing on any car? If so, that could explain why Toyota's warranty on rust is only for five years.

As an aside, I'm surprised by all the comments people made about getting large amound of stone chips on their cars. I only have two stone chips on my Yaris, one on the hood, and one on the front bumper. The miles on my car are mostly highway. If you keep your distance from the car in front of you, you will avoid most chips. Apart from avoiding chips, it's a good idea to keep distance for safety reasons.

[Yury]

I think 6 years is a bit too soon unless there are some spots where debris accumulate and act as a never drying sponge. Like in chevy malibus up to 2003, those bubble and perforate around the fuel door and nowhere else.

A coworker had a Corolla for 11 or 12 years, it never rusted. He had it undercoated new but never maintained the coating and still it did not rust. He never washed the car either :)

[thebarber]

rust on paint chips on roof above windshield

[devinlamothe]

I have a small spot on the back rear wheel well, but it's just a pinhead.

But yeah the wind shield wiper arms are kinda corroded ... thinking of just sanding and painting.

[Yury]

I have a small spot on the back rear wheel well, but it's just a pinhead.

But yeah the wind shield wiper arms are kinda corroded ... thinking of just sanding and painting.

Unless it's a paint chip, this pinhead is a sign that there's quite a bit more rust under it. Unfortunately no easy way to fix it, need to cut out, weld an repaint. Better do now while it's small, once it's there it will get worse. On my old Civic a pinhead like this turned into a gaping whole in 3-4 winters.

[devinlamothe]

Unless it's a paint chip, this pinhead is a sign that there's quite a bit more rust under it. Unfortunately no easy way to fix it, need to cut out, weld an repaint. Better do now while it's small, once it's there it will get worse. On my old Civic a pinhead like this turned into a gaping whole in 3-4 winters.

It's a chip from a rock ... just put some clear nail polish on it for now to seal it haha.

[Yury]

It's a chip from a rock ... just put some clear nail polish on it for now to seal it haha.

good to hear.
I usually scrub down to bare metal, put some rust converting primer and touch up paint on top.

[CoryM]

Well it's good to hear that these cars do not have any known rust issues. The rear fender lips, and the giant lip in front of the rear tires are the spots that concern me. The fender lips are partially filled with seam sealer but not enough to keep them from holding dirt. I think I will fill them completely with a sealer that tapers out to prevent the dirt from collecting and make it easy to wash off if it does.

It is my experience that most rust (on cars with decent protection) is caused by the dirt that packs into areas and holds moisture (as was mentioned). This should prevent that. I'm also thinking about using an oil based under-coating on the wheel wells. Also good for sound reduction.

The wiper arms are aluminum and are corroding, not rusting. I had to look closer. I wonder if they aren't having a galvanic reaction with the steel wiper pivots....

[Yury]

^ what kind of sealer would you use in a fender lip?

A bodyshop used some kind of waxy sealer in the same spots on my honda, but they say it's not avaliable to public. besides it keeps falling out, I've already seen then a couple of times for that. Would be great to find something so I can apply it myself to both cars.

[advocate]

rust on paint chips on roof above windshield

Glad I'm not the only one this has happened to.

[Hamster]

So, looks like the best way to prevent rust is to keep it clean, I guess. I've been running my car through an automatic touchless car wash in the winter, so it looks like I'll keep doing it. Automatic touchless carwashes are expensive, $10 around where I live for the full wash, including undercarriage. But getting rust cut out and the panel repainted would cost a lot more, so I shouldn't complain. Silly question, but would driving your car during a heavy rainstorm clean out the fender lips? Or would it actually cause more dirt to accumulate?

I haven't gotten any of the corrosion on the wiper arms that people here are talking about. Maybe I'm just lucky.

[CoryM]

would driving your car during a heavy rainstorm clean out the fender lips?
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=44307&stc=1&d=1320107085

Not really :laugh:

Look in your rear wheel well. In front of the tire is a big flat area that rocks and mud collect on. Easy enough to see and clean off. Now run your fingers along the inside of the fender-lip above the tire. You will feel a small lip and it will probably be packed with road dust. On some cars (hondas etc) you just wipe you finger under there when washing the car an it's fine. These cars the lip is small and pointed up. Mine has seam sealer in it, so toyota obviously thought to keep dirt out, but it is not enough. The mud still collects.

My plan is to clean the lip well with a brush and water, heat-gun to make sure there is no moisture left in the lip, then fill the lip completely with 3M exterior seam sealer shaping it so its tapered. Then spray the wheel well with an oil based undercoat. That, combined with washing it properly will hopefully end any rust concerns with the rear fender lip.

I am planning on having this car for it's entire service life so may as well spend a little time now to address it. I have a feeling this little bugger is going to run for a looooong time :rolleyes:

Going to try toyota for warranty on the wiper arm. If not, I will clean then spray them with some epoxy primer when I spray my other car. Wiper arms are easy enough to repair/replace. Rear fenders not so much.

Cheers.

[Hamster]

I think I might just clean the lip with a brush and water regularly. Especially in the winter, because they salt the roads here. Like you, I plan on having my car forever. Rust is one thing I don't want to deal with. It's very expensive to fix.

[Klink10]

I used to think driving thru accumulated rain water was a good way to clean the wells. Your tires pick up and throw dirt particles from the road that have been subjected to the oil film found there and throw all of it around those now wet wheel wells. That crap sticks in all the hard to get at places. Allowed to remain that damp stuff will eat away at metal. Keeping it clean and dry is good thinking.

I'm like Cory M here...this is my last car so I go to extremes.

[Hamster]

Very interesting! So, the trick to avoiding rust is to avoid the rain if possible, since apparently driving through rain can cause rust over time. I imagine driving through snow is even worse. Any tips on keeping the wells clean during the winter? Can cleaning them be held off till spring, or will rust eventually occur if the wheel wells are not constantly kept clean, no matter the time of the year?

[Klink10]

Rain and snow yes. You have to do the best you can in trying to keep things clean and dry. Those areas that use sand and salt during winter are even worse so alot more attention needs to be paid. Yea, if you start on a good cleaning regimen now and do it after the season your vehicle will last alot longer as far as rust is concerned. I don't get hit with the weather you will get there in Oh. We do get snow on occasion and I will not drive my car in it. That said about once every 3 mos. I'll pull everything apart in the back and give it a good wipe down, polish and sealant. Ea. evening after driving I'll blow out all the sand that accumulates just in front of the rear wheels with compressed air. Of course every wash the tires and rims come off allowing me full access to the wells and rim/tires for maintenance. Extreme yea but I use the car as an advertisement.

[JTDBT903]

Just do what I do and get a bucket of grease [I recommend marine type] and a good stiff bristle brush and coat the wheel well lip and any other area that the factory did not apply undercoating. I also spray inside the doors,trunk and hood with oil or tranny fluid. This will save your car!!!! Take it from me I live in the "SNOW BELT".

[CoryM]

I think I might just clean the lip with a brush and water regularly. Especially in the winter, because they salt the roads here

That will go a looong way toward keeping your fenders rust-free. The salt and sand gets thrown up by your tires (along with all sorts of other mud/dust) which finds its way into your fender lips. If you just take a small plastic brush (fingernail brush maybe?) and run it along the inside of the fender lip while its wet you will get most of the junk out. I think if you did this every time you washed your car you would be fine. I am not the best about washing my cars so I'd rather fill the lip and make my life easier in the future.

But yeah, the rust is from the moisture being held by the mud/sand packed in the lip. Clean the mud/sand out and you should keep the rust away. This goes for anywhere that mud/sand collects against metal.

I'm willing to bet that OH is a way saltier part of the world than here. If I lived in the rust-belt, I would look into spending the money for a waxoyl treatment or similar. I'm sure locals know more than I. Winter here is probably nicer than your fall :tongue:

Cheers,
Cory

[Hamster]

These are all very, very good tips. I'm going to have to write some of this down and stick it on my refrigerator before the winter comes. And Cory, you are right, they salt the roads around here. Running a fingernail brush or an old toothbrush along the fender lip is a pretty easy action, and something that can be done even in very cold weather.

JTDBT903, where does one buy marine grease? I don't know anyone with a boat, so I wouldn't know where to begin to find such a thing.

[ROCKLAND TOYOTA]

WALMART........

[Hamster]

Wow, a quick and easy answer. Thanks!

[JTDBT903]

WALMART........

Ditto.
Super Tech Marine Grease
I think it's about $3 and change.

[MickZEL]

Just do what I do and get a bucket of grease [I recommend marine type] and a good stiff bristle brush and coat the wheel well lip and any other area that the factory did not apply undercoating. I also spray inside the doors,trunk and hood with oil or tranny fluid. This will save your car!!!! Take it from me I live in the "SNOW BELT".

I totally agree. I do the same thing. Helps.

[swede]

Has anybody tried the electronic protection systems they have out now that are a few hundred bucks? Whether you or someone you know has tried them and has any feedback?

I don't know how they work and have only heard mixed reviews

[TLyttle]

My buddy swears by the electronic system. He had one on his Volvo P1800 (not ideal, as he pampered that car, seldom drove it in the rain, never in the snow), and another in his 94 Plymouth Van. That thing is very clean example, so something must be helping...

[thebarber]

Has anybody tried the electronic protection systems they have out now that are a few hundred bucks? Whether you or someone you know has tried them and has any feedback?

I don't know how they work and have only heard mixed reviews

theyre a waste of money

you're better off just spending the money and getting the car "oil" sprayed annually....krown rustproofing works

[Strider199]

Nice thread,
I had a 1999.5 Golf TDi which was in great shape except for the front fenders. They started to rust from inside due to some insulation that would get wet and stay that way. When I took the inside plastic fender well off you would not believe the amount of sand and dirt stuck in there. I bet is was at least a pound per side.
Glad to hear these Yaris's are pretty rust free. There is nothing like a rusty fender to get one upset.

[devinlamothe]

Sorry to bump this thread but I wanted to report on my car ...

I noticed some surface rust under the rocker panels (my car doesn't have the plastic piece to protect it) and also in the "lip" infront of the rear tires. It looks like just surface for now so I'm going to use solvent/sand/prime and use that truck bed liner stuff that CTScott used to coat the wheel wells to prevent that from happening.

It makes me cry a little inside to see that disease on a car that runs great.

[CoryM]

Sorry to bump this thread but I wanted to report on my car ...

I noticed some surface rust under the rocker panels (my car doesn't have the plastic piece to protect it) and also in the "lip" infront of the rear tires. It looks like just surface for now so I'm going to use solvent/sand/prime and use that truck bed liner stuff that CTScott used to coat the wheel wells to prevent that from happening.

It makes me cry a little inside to see that disease on a car that runs great.

Reports like this are exactly what I (we?) are looking for. So we can keep an eye on the trouble spots and deal with them early, or prevent them from happening. Thanks, and sorry for your rust.

Be careful with the bedliner. Most bedliners/gravel-guards are not rust inhibitors. Once the moisture gets in behind it gets ugly very fast. I think you are best off cleaning the rusty areas, priming, and painting with rust preventive materials. Then coating the areas with the oil/grease/wax of your choice as was mentioned.

I had a 1980 camaro which were known to rust badly. When I removed the subframe to paint it, I realized it must have had an oil leak from day one. 25yrs later, the bare steel subframe was spotless and shiny in the area under the oil sludge. Not even a weeks worth of surface rust on it. Just shows how well oil works.

[CoryM]

btw, those lips in front of the rear wheels have drains. Make sure they are still open, however you seal it.
Cheers.

[devinlamothe]

Reports like this are exactly what I (we?) are looking for. So we can keep an eye on the trouble spots and deal with them early, or prevent them from happening. Thanks, and sorry for your rust.

Be careful with the bedliner. Most bedliners/gravel-guards are not rust inhibitors. Once the moisture gets in behind it gets ugly very fast. I think you are best off cleaning the rusty areas, priming, and painting with rust preventive materials. Then coating the areas with the oil/grease/wax of your choice as was mentioned.

I had a 1980 camaro which were known to rust badly. When I removed the subframe to paint it, I realized it must have had an oil leak from day one. 25yrs later, the bare steel subframe was spotless and shiny in the area under the oil sludge. Not even a weeks worth of surface rust on it. Just shows how well oil works.

After checking my car out the other day, the main spots I am now worried about are the wheel wells where the plastic bumper covers meet the quarter panels - I've noticed on all 4 sides the paint as chipped off and is starting to rust underneath :cry::cry::cry:

Seeing this just makes me want to get rid of this car lol :brokenheart:

[why?]

that is just nuts, this car is way too young to have any rust. what is this, the 1970's?

[devinlamothe]

that is just nuts, this car is way too young to have any rust. what is this, the 1970's?

Yeah I totally agree. I've seen SATURNS driving around older than my car that are free of rust.

EDIT: Last night I got fed up and ordered a paint touch up kit. Time to sand, prime, paint then clear coat. Hopefully I do a good job lol

[TLyttle]

Gee, the 70s? I clearly remember Generous Motors products that dropped parts on the road in less than 4 years, and from the 50s that lost headlights to corrosion in less than 2.

The new coating systems on most cars allow them to issue guarantees against corrosion up to 7 years. How good can it get? And we are worried about chips corroding in 4 years?

The neighbour has a Model A with steel fenders that show very little corrosion, surface rust only. You do not, however, want to hit anything with it...