Water Pump, Do it myself or pay someone?

[cutchin]

My WP has the inevitable pink stuff spewing from it. I'm torn between paying a shop $175 to change it (labor only) or doing it myself for $75 (paying a young mechanic to help me do it in my garage). What would you recommend? I've changed waterpumps before, but not on a car this new. I've got all the tools and have worked on cars when I was young(er). I'm tempted to do it myself as much for the fun of it as for the savings. Here are my concerns:
Do I really have to lower the engine (loosen a motor mount) to get the old pump out?
Do I need to worry about air pockets in the cooling system when I refill it?

What's your opinion? and are there other things I should be concerned about. I'll probably by the OEM WP online.

That's my story. Thanks for suggestions in advance.

[A-Dingo-Ate-My-Baby]

honestly ?

if you have changed water pumps before, why are you asking these questions ?

based on : you say you did it before
and yet: you are asking basic questions

I think you should put the tools down and have a professional ASE mechanic do it

[Klink10]

^^^^Ditto if it applies.

correct tools are a must and several variations of the same tool was required for me. In other words a good tool selection made it a whole lot easier.

engine lower....... no
bubbles.......... yes (re-fill slowly and burb several times)

[Captain Slow]

i have not done this on a yaris yet, but if I can do it on the last few cars I've had (325i, Mustang GT, and Lancer Ralliart) I'm fairly confident that this should be an extremely easy job.

anybody have a link to a DIY for the benefit of the OP?

[cutchin]

Thanks for the replies so far. I should mention that I have reviewed an excellent thread on this forum (with pictures) about changing the water pump. That's what make me somewhat confident.

[bronsin]

DIY all the way.

Not a doubt in my mind.

The air bubble stuff is not a problem. Just fill and run and cool and check until its full.

[barryware]

I replaced my pump twice in the last three weeks because the new pump (new, not a rebuild) was leaking around the shaft. There is one bolt that is difficult to get any "turn" on.
Removing the alternator makes it easier to access. Make sure you get a good gasket with the pump. My 1st pump came with basically a piece of paper for the gasket.

The 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the shaft are 10mm. You need a wrench (not a socket) to remove these bolts as well as having to lock the pulley. I used a large screwdriver through one of the holes in the pulley.

There are 3 bolts and two nuts that hold on the water pump. These are also 10mm. You will need a combination of wrench and socket to get these off.

The top bolt on the alternator is 12mm. The bottom bolt on the alternator is 14mm. A wrench works fine for both. To get to lower bolt out all the way so you can remove the alternator, you need to remove one 10mm bolt that holds an AC line in place. Remove the bolt, and wiggle the bracket up the ac line (toward the front of the car) a couple of inches so it is not in the way of removing the lower alternator bolt. It is a long bolt.

The last pump, was the third pump I have installed on the car.. 1st pump was at about 38k miles. The second was at 73k, and the third was the next weekend after the 2nd pump.

Start to finish, about 3 hours but there was a lot of coffee sipping.

Even though you drained the radiator, when you remove the pump, there will be a substantial amount of coolant that comes out. Put some cardboard on the floor with some kind of catch pan. I used a plastic 1lb coffee container. Besides what made it to the floor (cardboard), I caught 6 ~ 8 oz of fluid in the container.

Good luck.. It is not difficult. Well.. it is not like hauling rocks in a wheel barrel for three hours but it is kind of a pain.

[cutchin]

Your post was super helpful. I'm pretty confident I can handle it, thanks to your detailed suggestions.

I do have one more quick question. I see you've had to replace several water pumps on the Yaris in a short time. Out of curiosity, what brand were you using? I'm thinking of just getting one from Autozone that has their lifetime warranty, or I could get an OEM online, but I think those have problems and don't have much of a warranty. Please let me know what you think.

Thanks.

[barryware]

My 1st replacement was a genuine OEM toyota pump.. 1st pump that came with new car lasted around 38k.. this pump never leaked but the shaft began to wobble and it was making all kinds of noise.

The 2nd OEM pump lasted till 73k.. So I am figuring that the oem pump is good for only about 35k+ miles. The last pump, I got at autozone for 1/2 the oem price. The gasket that comes with it was a POS.. just a piece of paper. However, that pump leaked from the get go. They gave me a replacement of the same type and that one is not leaking.

BMG is the maker if the pump I think.. Maybe I have the letters mixed up..

I may be mentioned that the belt was too tight causing the pump to fail prematurely. I can assure you that it was not the case.

[bankrobber]

Why so many pumps go bad so soon? I have 130k miles on my 07 and still on oem pump. I drive 95% highway miles and usually over 100 miles from home during the week. I am getting nervous this pump will go bad and Usually where I drive it is at least 50 miles to a auto parts store and sometimes 20 miles to the next gas station.

[bronsin]

Why so many pumps go bad so soon? I have 130k miles on my 07 and still on oem pump. I drive 95% highway miles and usually over 100 miles from home during the week. I am getting nervous this pump will go bad and Usually where I drive it is at least 50 miles to a auto parts store and sometimes 20 miles to the next gas station.

Dont worry you got one of the good ones. I bet your pump lasts forever.

But do what I do. Open the engine hood once a month or once a week and look at the bottom of it. When the pump starts to go you will see red streaks of coolant in line with the belts. Mine leaked for a month before I had the dealer replace it under warranty at 26k miles. But the coolant level never went down any. Maybe it would just leak a little and never actually let go. I remember old time water pumps in the 60s. Once they leaked a bit that was it. They were gone in a week or two.

I do not think your Toyota pump will go and blow right away. There will be time to do something.

[auxmike]

My first factory installed pump went at 30k. I installed an OEM replacement, and 1k later, it too was spritzing! BUT, I let it ride and it "fixed" itself after a while, like MONTHS later. Go figure. I let it be and it's fine now at 47k. And yeah, order the proper black metal gasket from the Toyo dealer.
PS; I keep I keep a spare pump handy at home.

[thepartsmancometh]

OEM pumps are made by Aisin. We have had VERY mixed luck with the Aisin WP's. We replace a LOT of them (on multiple models). some last 30k. some last forever. must be a issue in manufacturing tolerances or something.

FWIW, our 08 yaris has 65k ish miles on it and is leak free on the original pump

[OTA'sTOY]

Why so many pumps go bad so soon? I have 130k miles on my 07 and still on oem pump. I drive 95% highway miles and usually over 100 miles from home during the week. I am getting nervous this pump will go bad and Usually where I drive it is at least 50 miles to a auto parts store and sometimes 20 miles to the next gas station.

My 1st replacement was a genuine OEM toyota pump.. 1st pump that came with new car lasted around 38k.. this pump never leaked but the shaft began to wobble and it was making all kinds of noise.

The 2nd OEM pump lasted till 73k.. So I am figuring that the oem pump is good for only about 35k+ miles. The last pump, I got at autozone for 1/2 the oem price. The gasket that comes with it was a POS.. just a piece of paper. However, that pump leaked from the get go. They gave me a replacement of the same type and that one is not leaking.

BMG is the maker if the pump I think.. Maybe I have the letters mixed up..

I may be mentioned that the belt was too tight causing the pump to fail prematurely. I can assure you that it was not the case.

hope it answered your question

[fj40dave]

90,700 miles....no water pump issues. Replaced pass side front caliper under warranty back at ~26k miles....no issues again there......otherwise, car has been perfect!

[Altitude]

90,700 miles....no water pump issues. Replaced pass side front caliper under warranty back at ~26k miles....no issues again there......otherwise, car has been perfect!

What was wrong with the caliper?

Sometimes I think mine grabs too early causing a big pull to the right. Im just not sure because it might just be the road surface.

[bronsin]

What was wrong with the caliper?

Sometimes I think mine grabs too early causing a big pull to the right. Im just not sure because it might just be the road surface.

Jack the car up so the wheel spins. Shake the wheel at 9-3 and 6-12 oclock. If you get play it might be the tie rods or wheel bearings. If the wheel doesnt spin freely you got a sticky/stuck caliper piston.

[BluYrs]

My factory pump lasted ~45k miles, just a bit over 5 years.

OEM pump 130$, b-part 70$. Guess which one I went for...

[KCALB SIRAY]

Thanks for the replies so far. I should mention that I have reviewed an excellent thread on this forum (with pictures) about changing the water pump. That's what make me somewhat confident.

i have not done this on a yaris yet, but if I can do it on the last few cars I've had (325i, Mustang GT, and Lancer Ralliart) I'm fairly confident that this should be an extremely easy job.

anybody have a link to a DIY for the benefit of the OP?


Let me know if you have any questions http://www.microimageonline.com/forums/showthread.php/2884-DIY-Replacing-Water-Pump-on-1NZ?highlight=

[auxmike]

I bought my oem pump for about $78usd. I have an AC Delco pump as a spare part..

[maui]

Comments below barryware's very accurate and useful post:

I replaced my pump twice in the last three weeks because the new pump (new, not a rebuild) was leaking around the shaft. There is one bolt that is difficult to get any "turn" on.
Removing the alternator makes it easier to access. Make sure you get a good gasket with the pump. My 1st pump came with basically a piece of paper for the gasket.

The 3 bolts that hold the pulley to the shaft are 10mm. You need a wrench (not a socket) to remove these bolts as well as having to lock the pulley. I used a large screwdriver through one of the holes in the pulley.

There are 3 bolts and two nuts that hold on the water pump. These are also 10mm. You will need a combination of wrench and socket to get these off.

The top bolt on the alternator is 12mm. The bottom bolt on the alternator is 14mm. A wrench works fine for both. To get to lower bolt out all the way so you can remove the alternator, you need to remove one 10mm bolt that holds an AC line in place. Remove the bolt, and wiggle the bracket up the ac line (toward the front of the car) a couple of inches so it is not in the way of removing the lower alternator bolt. It is a long bolt.

The last pump, was the third pump I have installed on the car.. 1st pump was at about 38k miles. The second was at 73k, and the third was the next weekend after the 2nd pump.

Start to finish, about 3 hours but there was a lot of coffee sipping.

Even though you drained the radiator, when you remove the pump, there will be a substantial amount of coolant that comes out. Put some cardboard on the floor with some kind of catch pan. I used a plastic 1lb coffee container. Besides what made it to the floor (cardboard), I caught 6 ~ 8 oz of fluid in the container.

Good luck.. It is not difficult. Well.. it is not like hauling rocks in a wheel barrel for three hours but it is kind of a pain.

barrymore has give very useful information for anyone considering this DIY

I was looking for torque specs for the 5 pump bolts and was only able to find 18 inch pounds for those 10mm nuts and bolts

Taking the alternator out makes it much easier!!

You will need to use a screwdriver or in my case a screwdriver with a hook end to put through the pulley so it won't turn, otherwise it will spin.

I also loosened the motor mount, and the one A/C line mount and finally used a pry bar to get enough clearance to wrestle the pump out. This is the hardest part, just not enough room, really need an extra 1/4 inch. Also the bottom most bolt on the pump is a pain as under the pump are two bolts the TOP one is for the waterpump and they are situated vertically, you want the topmost one. A retractable mirror is useful here but it can be done by feel.

Ours lasted 115K on a '07.

ASIN OEM waterpump available on eBay for $45 including Priority shipping and it has the proper metal gasket!!!

Aloha

[Exiwolfman]

Comments below barryware's very accurate and useful post:



barrymore has give very useful information for anyone considering this DIY

I was looking for torque specs for the 5 pump bolts and was only able to find 18 inch pounds for those 10mm nuts and bolts

Taking the alternator out makes it much easier!!

You will need to use a screwdriver or in my case a screwdriver with a hook end to put through the pulley so it won't turn, otherwise it will spin.

I also loosened the motor mount, and the one A/C line mount and finally used a pry bar to get enough clearance to wrestle the pump out. This is the hardest part, just not enough room, really need an extra 1/4 inch. Also the bottom most bolt on the pump is a pain as under the pump are two bolts the TOP one is for the waterpump and they are situated vertically, you want the topmost one. A retractable mirror is useful here but it can be done by feel.

Ours lasted 115K on a '07.

ASIN OEM waterpump available on eBay for $45 including Priority shipping and it has the proper metal gasket!!!

Aloha


Torque for the pump is only 8.1 lbs and 11 lbs for the pully wheel as per toyota spec ...just did my wp this week .

[maui]

thanks for those torque specs, I went with about 95 ft #'son the waterpump, no leaks should be good to go... BTW used almost exactly one gallon of Toyota Pink premix antifreeze just draining it out the bottom of radiator. The stuff looked perfectly clean and clear pink even after 115K but replaced it anyway...

[Exiwolfman]

thanks for those torque specs, I went with about 95 ft #'son the waterpump, no leaks should be good to go... BTW used almost exactly one gallon of Toyota Pink premix antifreeze just draining it out the bottom of radiator. The stuff looked perfectly clean and clear pink even after 115K but replaced it anyway...

That is 8 lbs as in 8.1 lbs not 95 lbs ....snug thats all ...hope that is a typo on ur part at u mean 9.5 lbs hehe and ya it will take a jug of pink stuff just make sure u get all the air out of the system

[mimelio]

My OE water pump went out at 30 some thousand miles I installed an ASC water pump (branded "Tough One" from Autozone). After hearing Asin may only last another 30,000 or 200,000 I just opted for the Autozone part with life time warranty.

[jared_a_washburn]

I know this is an old thread, and am not sure if any one will get this....

But I was curious at how many of your water pumps failed so early on in the car's life. I am at 148k miles on my '08 Yaris, and have just now ran into problems with the WP. Gonna replace it this weekend, and I am deciding to go with a Duralast from AutoZone over ordering an OEM part. I guess I am just fortunate that I was able to go so long without problems.

The main problem I'm getting now is noise, lots of noise, almost like a grinding or rattle. I don't seem to have a lot of leakage. I saw a previous poster mention the shaft might be damaged and that could be what causes the grinding sound.

Anyway... I'm set to do the job myself, but definitely am going to try to have some assistance from a helper. I always foul things up when I don't have a second opinion near by.

[tmontague]

Just get a lifetime warranty one. That way you'll never have to pay for one again if it ever goes out. My OEM pump went out at around 130,000km and a new Parts Source lifetime warranty one has given me no problems so far w/ 20k km on it now.

It's not hard to do but you'll want to loosen the passenger side motor mount and use a jack under the oil pan to help get access to one of the wp bolts

[jared_a_washburn]

Thanks for the tip!!! Headed to the auto parts store right now. Wish me luck :laugh:

[bronsin]

Good luck and we are here to help.

I think your we is really toast if it's noisy. My just leaked but I replaced it cause it was under warranty.

[Exiwolfman]

Best way if u have a hoist is to go through the pass side wheel area and have the engine drop after removing the engine mount, you can have it done under 30 min.
Or go through the top by lifting engine and removing the alt ... Works too just takes longer and more of a pain.

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

[tmontague]

^ good point. I can't remember if I accessed it from below or up top. Either way being able to move the engine up and down really help access that bottom wp bolt.

If your wp is sqealing then change it now before it strand you on the side of the road or over heats your car. If it's squealing then the bearing is usually toast and it's just a matter of time.

The wp in my Echo went out at 300,000km and it never leaked. Just squealed like a banshee. The wp in my Yaris never made any noise but it left a pink streak under my hood. So I didn't feel like seeing how long I could go until it gave way and started leaking a ton of coolant.

Fwiw, I drained the coolant before doing this job. I'm not sure if anyone else has done this w/ out draining the coolant but i'd recommend it.