Will the stock speaker wiring run 45w RMS?

[yojabbajabba]

Hi all,

I just picked up a 2008 Toyota Yaris YRS LB/HB, and am looking to replace the HU, Front and Rear Speakers (with Splits/Component 6" at the front, Coax 5.25" at the back). The HU of choice will be an Alpine one - because of this product:

http://bit.ly/tVGmr6 - an Alpine KTP-445 amplifier, that runs 45w RMS @ 4 ohms.

If I were to use this amp, would the stock wiring suffice? or would I have to upgrade/replace/add new wiring?

Thanks all,

Aaron

[Viperoni]

It's fine

[sickpuppy1]

You would not HAVE to, but its not a bad idea if you can....

[yojabbajabba]

Thanks Viperoni :)

[yojabbajabba]

@Sickpuppy1 - it just seems like a lot more work (stripping out wires and replacing them with thicker gauge ones) for not much gain. I guess the upgrades i'm going for are attempting to be as minimalistic as possible.
Is there a thread already on re-wiring?

Thanks :)

[fnkngrv]

you can get away with it, but you might want to ping sqcomp for additional info.

[yojabbajabba]

sqcomp - Sound Quality competition? (spot the n00b?)

edit - d.w. just found out "sqcomp" is actually a forum member!

[Viperoni]

You would not HAVE to, but its not a bad idea if you can....

When I send 2kw over 20 feet in my HT setup, better believe I'm going to use Speakon connectors and 12g wire.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf

In the average 50w amplified car audio setup, you're fine with an 18g wire. If you're running off the deck, even less to worry about. It'd be a waste of money to worry about the wire when you could spend money on better speakers.

[sickpuppy1]

I understand what your saying, That s why I said you dont have to. I'm not sure its even 18 gauge, actually dont remember. My opinion though, is why spend all the money on better HU, speakers, amps etc and leave it in the hands of the cheapest wire from the lowest bidder. I dont propose investing in theater cable either for a car stereo. I shopped around and found a very good deal on shielded monstercable, and while not the best by any stretch of the imagination, I feel I'm doing right by the rest of my equipment. For less than 20 bucks for 50 ft of shielded cable, I know its not the weakest link in the SQ of the system. And again, its just an opinion....that and 50 cents will get ya a cup of coffee, huh? lol

And yes, the hardest part is going thru the rubber tube of the door, that SUCKED!

[willygoodness]

And yes, the hardest part is going thru the rubber tube of the door, that SUCKED!



How much room is in that tube? Does anyone have photos or a link? I've got some splits to put in the front door but don't want to have the crossover box and tweeters in the doors.

[sickpuppy1]

The tube is not the issue. It the sealed area where the tube goes into the car. it sealed around the wires.alot of people just run the wires to the tube and black tape them to the tube. Would have been much easier that way.

[yojabbajabba]

Thanks sickpuppy :)

[NZ-FE Vios]

Definitely replace. Get that stock shit out of there. Go ahead and do some sound deadening too. Stock is pretty weak and rattly.

[swidd]

I didn't read the whole thread... but I hope someone suggested to use a clothing hanger piece for the rubber tubes in the door. Totally not difficult with a solid thin stick and some tape.

[willygoodness]

I didn't read the whole thread... but I hope someone suggested to use a clothing hanger piece for the rubber tubes in the door. Totally not difficult with a solid thin stick and some tape.

Thanks

[sqcomp]

You could easily use the stock wire...

BUT

Think about proper termination of the wire and resale value when you want to sell the car. Why? What happens when you want to plug the OEM speakers back in...

Be careful is my point. Don't start hacking the OEM terminations off the lead in wires to the speakers.

Leading the wire through the door boot is fun! :P

A hangar is definately a way to do it. I don't use a hangar for two reasons, one is that is could scratch the paint, two is that it is conductive...you just never know when you're going to ground your flux capacitor in the Yaris do you?

I use what is essentially a giant zip tie. It's 24" long and flat. It snakes pretty well.

I've snaked tekflexed 12 gauge wiring through our door boot several times. It just takes some patience.

[yojabbajabba]

You could easily use the stock wire...

BUT

Think about proper termination of the wire and resale value when you want to sell the car. Why? What happens when you want to plug the OEM speakers back in...

Be careful is my point. Don't start hacking the OEM terminations off the lead in wires to the speakers.

Leading the wire through the door boot is fun! :P


Thank you SQ! I'll give the OEM wiring a go, and reassess from there :)

[talnlnky]

When I send 2kw over 20 feet in my HT setup, better believe I'm going to use Speakon connectors and 12g wire.

http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/speakerwireselectorassistant.swf

In the average 50w amplified car audio setup, you're fine with an 18g wire. If you're running off the deck, even less to worry about. It'd be a waste of money to worry about the wire when you could spend money on better speakers.

That is the best car audio info site ever.... I've been referencing that place for the past 10 years.

Yeah, there will be no noticeable difference between the stock wires and larger speaker wires... in fact.... even on a 2000 watt system the difference between 18awg and 12awg will not be noticeable, and you will pay for it.... with that said, In the past I have ran as big as 8awg speaker wire in sub installs.

the issues really comes down to amperage versus voltage... speaker wire runs (from amplifier to speaker) are low amp/high voltage which does not require large gauge speaker wire. The power cable from a battery to an amplifier however uses low voltage - high amperage (needs big wire/cable).

amperage causes heat in wire much faster than voltage does. If the car world would get their crap together and change from 12volt to 48volt or higher we could run 2000watt systems off 10awg power cable instead of 0awg.