Coolant recirculation pump

[Ratz]

I asked local Toyota dealer what is the fist shortcoming they can think off on 1.5L Yaris just to be prepared and keep an eye on the trouble spots.

I was told the coolant recirculation pump will likely fail around 60K km. To me it sounded somewhat premature so could members just replay with their experiences?

It would be appreciated as I think the water pump replacement looks like evil job.:mad:

[Altitude]

A quick search of the forums will show that the dealer is correct. If anything goes on these cars, it's the water pump. It's not universal however.

[bankrobber]

134k miles still on origional pump. Although it does show evidence of leaking last year but fine since

[auxmike]

My original water pump lasted 30k miles. I changed it out myself. Not for the faint of heart. You need to have decent tools and the guts to take the risk of breaking something ....

[bronsin]

They steered you straight. Mine went at ~26k under warranty.

There are DIYs here on this site if yours is out of warranty.

I make a habit of checking the underside of my hood when I check the oil. There are pink streaks of coolant if the pump is leaking.

[Ratz]

Argh!!,:mad: I thought I purchased flawless car. How did I missed this water pump engineering incompetents. Did not expect that from Toyota.

Now that I have one, although it has only 3K Km I inspected the water pump. With a help of small mirror one can see the shaft coming out of the housing with ease and thus I will be able to keep an eye on it. I am surprised not to see the drain hole (which most pump have) and is showed and talk about.

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31691&highlight=DIY+water+pump

Without this opening should the seal fail or during small seepage (which is by the way accepted by many manufactures), the small amount of coolant can freely drain out by gravity. Without the hole this coolant enters the bearings and destroys them fairly rapidly.

This makes me think that perhaps the pump was redesigned or different supplier was picked by Toyota (That would be nice, but with no hole on the bottom I am not impressed). Only time will tell.
Next I grabbed the pulley and wiggled it sideways. There was a detectable play, but nothing to worry about IMHO.

I currently have on my bench a water pump from diesel engine (Perkins4.108) which I rebuilt 11 years ago and there is zero play in the bearings. (this engine is used in marine application and has about 1200 hrs on it since the pump was rebuilt. It is being done again only as a precaution for those interested.

With this water pump issue I think my next step is to install a good water temperature gauge rather then wait for overheating light to come on. By the time the indicator light comes on engine is already running between 210 to 230 degrees Fahrenheit (depends on the manufacturer). By the time driver is able to pull to the side from the traffic (not always easy and it may be an incline) the engine may have already suffered damage, most likely head gasket or seizing pistons in advanced state of overheating.

No gauge is another screw up, but at least if I install the gauge my self I will be able to install full sweep gauge so I can monitor the temperature with greater accuracy.

Thank you all on this forum, I have learned a lot.

http://www3.telus.net/oceanready/water%20pump.jpg

[swidd]

Ratz, I think you're overreacting to the problem. As far as I remember on this forum, there hasn't been a case of sudden overheat or engine failure resulting from the water pump issue. It is merely the seal that starts leaking, causing a depletion of fluid and a messy clean-up. A new pump and seal is <$100, and a nice DIY.

Another common thing to fail is a small alternator control circuit, CTScott has more on that.

[Ratz]

Ratz, I think you're overreacting to the problem. As far as I remember on this forum, there hasn't been a case of sudden overheat or engine failure resulting from the water pump issue. It is merely the seal that starts leaking, causing a depletion of fluid and a messy clean-up. A new pump and seal is <$100, and a nice DIY.

Another common thing to fail is a small alternator control circuit, CTScott has more on that.

I am usually overreacting to problems. That is why in my whole life I did not have one car break down on the road yet. I also do not take my cars to a shop or let someone else screw it up. DIY all the way. Do not get me wrong, there is a lot of capable an conscientious mechanics out there, but this way I can only blame myself.
I do agree with you that it would be very rare for water pump to fail instantly and dump all the coolant at once. There are usually signs as most people on this forum describe. Knowledge about his issue is a good thing so one can be on guard and give the pump frequent inspections with the mirror I indicated in my photo.
I also had a closer look at water pump replacement procedure and realized it is not as difficult job as I was let to believe.

Anyway, your comment is appreciated and I would be most obliged if you could direct me towards this other “small alternator control circuit” issue. I will try to search for it, but if you have it handy it would help.

Cheers to all:smile:

[BLH]

The one I saw was for a the 2007 and I believe it maybe corrected in later years.
http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27945&highlight=Voltage+regulator