Ratz
02-22-2012, 10:40 PM
After testing the gauge for couple of days, I found it to be a great asset.
Location of the gauge was another matter. I new the dangling gauge from the mirror will not do and dislike to see wiring.
Here is what I did. Removed driver’s side pillar trim. I had some trouble due to Air bag curtain and was unsuccessful in saving the two retaining clips. Best way was to just pry it off starting at the top. Then with side cutters I cut the clips. Trim then came off nicely. I was happy to find a lot of room to pull the wiring between the dash and the pillar. I used tie wraps to lay the wire beside the existing wiring harness as not to interfere with curtain air bag. I think it may be a good idea to disconnect battery and wait 90 seconds before working with air bags. (There is no need to take the air bag off). I did not have to pull the headliner off, as the thickness of the ScanGauge II wire was thick enough and just pushing it under the headliner seemed to snap in behind the lip. The shop manual for 2007 year Yaris (that is all I have) suggests the clips must be replaced. Pillar snapped in nicely with the old clips, which were cut off. However in case of an accident the pillar trim likely would just fly off with the old cut clips and side curtain may not do it’s job correctly. I purchased new clips from Toyota at $5 each. I then took off the rear view mirror, pulling it off the ball joint (there is likely easier way). I took the four screw out from the ScanGauge II and removed the back cover. I then drilled two holes on the top and two holes on the bottom of the cover about one inch from the center line. Top holes are drilled for access with the watchmaker screwdriver and bottom holes for #4 pan head screws. I then drilled matching holes in the top of the mirror housing to accommodate the screws. As top of the mirror has a slight slope I made a little wedge from a black plastic about 7/16 of an inch diameter and 1/16” to 0” thickness. I then screwed the back panel to the mirror housing. I then installed gauge to the back cover putting a piece of electrical tape over the screw heads that they do not touch the printed circuit board. Looks good to me and it is easy to see the gauge.
The whole job took about one and a half hours, but most of the time was spend to save the pillar trim clips, which turned out impossible.
http://www3.telus.net/oceanready/scangauge%20II%20002.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/oceanready/scangauge%20II%20003.jpg
Location of the gauge was another matter. I new the dangling gauge from the mirror will not do and dislike to see wiring.
Here is what I did. Removed driver’s side pillar trim. I had some trouble due to Air bag curtain and was unsuccessful in saving the two retaining clips. Best way was to just pry it off starting at the top. Then with side cutters I cut the clips. Trim then came off nicely. I was happy to find a lot of room to pull the wiring between the dash and the pillar. I used tie wraps to lay the wire beside the existing wiring harness as not to interfere with curtain air bag. I think it may be a good idea to disconnect battery and wait 90 seconds before working with air bags. (There is no need to take the air bag off). I did not have to pull the headliner off, as the thickness of the ScanGauge II wire was thick enough and just pushing it under the headliner seemed to snap in behind the lip. The shop manual for 2007 year Yaris (that is all I have) suggests the clips must be replaced. Pillar snapped in nicely with the old clips, which were cut off. However in case of an accident the pillar trim likely would just fly off with the old cut clips and side curtain may not do it’s job correctly. I purchased new clips from Toyota at $5 each. I then took off the rear view mirror, pulling it off the ball joint (there is likely easier way). I took the four screw out from the ScanGauge II and removed the back cover. I then drilled two holes on the top and two holes on the bottom of the cover about one inch from the center line. Top holes are drilled for access with the watchmaker screwdriver and bottom holes for #4 pan head screws. I then drilled matching holes in the top of the mirror housing to accommodate the screws. As top of the mirror has a slight slope I made a little wedge from a black plastic about 7/16 of an inch diameter and 1/16” to 0” thickness. I then screwed the back panel to the mirror housing. I then installed gauge to the back cover putting a piece of electrical tape over the screw heads that they do not touch the printed circuit board. Looks good to me and it is easy to see the gauge.
The whole job took about one and a half hours, but most of the time was spend to save the pillar trim clips, which turned out impossible.
http://www3.telus.net/oceanready/scangauge%20II%20002.jpg
http://www3.telus.net/oceanready/scangauge%20II%20003.jpg