Which brand do u guys recommend for cv axles

[yaris4062007]

I cant afford toyota cv axles -900.00 ;(

[CTScott]

Rockauto.com carries the Cardone ones for the Yaris for $66 each with no core, or $45 each with a core charge (with the cost to ship them back the no core is probably better). I recently used the Cardone axles and various other parts on my 92 Celica and was happy with them.

You can also pickup used, low mileage axles from a junkyard, but they will run about the same price.

[yaris4062007]

Thank you scott, is it easy to remove inner joint from the transmission. ;)
Do i need to replace both side or just side has leaking grease.

[TOLMACH]

Thank you scott, is it easy to remove inner joint from the transmission. ;)
Do i need to replace both side or just side has leaking grease.

technically if the failed rubber boot is the only problem and the cv joint is ok (no knocking sound while you turn left or right) you can try replacing the rubber boot only

[CTScott]

The axles come out of the tranny very easily, so if I was going to go through the hassle of taking the wheel hub off to get to the axle, I would just do the entire axle. As for doing both sides, I would just do the side with the bad boot.

[yaris4062007]

I just ordered left and right cv axles For $147.00 from rockauto. Thank you again. :)

[DARKSCOPE001]

I know you already bought yours but This is some that I found at the local oreillys for 70 bucks each. They are the oreilly inhouse brand of "master pro" and they are remaned. So im not sure if they are outstanding quality or not. But I used them on my 99 elantra for the past 20k miles (i know 20000 miles isnt that far for a cv shaft but other stuff broke and i gave up on the car) without problems. They are lifetime warrantied, Im sure they are lowish quality assembled by some poor guy for minimum wage but so are the cardones im sure.

Thanks
Sean Scott

[Jason@SportsCar]

The axles come out of the tranny very easily, so if I was going to go through the hassle of taking the wheel hub off to get to the axle, I would just do the entire axle. As for doing both sides, I would just do the side with the bad boot.

Agreed. Pulling them out of the trans is easier than getting them out of the hub.

One thing to watch when pulling and installing the axles into the trans, be very careful with the seal. The splines on the axle, particularly in the area of the spring clip, can damage it. Pull them out straight, and put them in straight. I put a little bit of white lithium grease on the seal and the splines.

[yaris4062007]

I tried to remove the cv axle from the transmission. It doesnt even move, do i need to use special tool ??

[yaris4062007]

I know you already bought yours but This is some that I found at the local oreillys for 70 bucks each. They are the oreilly inhouse brand of "master pro" and they are remaned. So im not sure if they are outstanding quality or not. But I used them on my 99 elantra for the past 20k miles (i know 20000 miles isnt that far for a cv shaft but other stuff broke and i gave up on the car) without problems. They are lifetime warrantied, Im sure they are lowish quality assembled by some poor guy for minimum wage but so are the cardones im sure.

Thanks
Sean Scott


Thanx for the info. Next time if i need it again , i will get it from oreilly. I live very close to the store. Two block away ;). Lifetime warranty nice!!! ;)

[CTScott]

I tried to remove the cv axle from the transmission. It doesnt even move, do i need to use special tool ??

You need a hammer and a wide flat blade screwdriver. There is a groove on the inner joint that you put the tip of the screwdriver against and then give it a sharp whack with the hammer the axle will pop right out. There is a special tool that is a slide hammer with an "L" shaped tip, but I haven't needed it.

[DARKSCOPE001]

You need a hammer and a wide flat blade screwdriver. There is a groove on the inner joint that you put the tip of the screwdriver against and then give it a sharp whack with the hammer the axle will pop right out. There is a special tool that is a slide hammer with an "L" shaped tip, but I haven't needed it.

Correct you have to defeat the circlip that holds the inboard end of the cv shaft into the diff. You either need a slide hammer, Screwdriver or pry bar to pull it from its grove in the diff. If you try to yank on the cv shaft you will pull it apart. and in some cases make your core worthless unless you can put it back togeather.

Putting it back in is easy tho. Just match up the splines and be carefull with the seal (in a perfect world you would put a new one in but W/E) slide it in till you feel the circlip become firm then bump it into its grove.

Good Luck
Sean Scott

[yaris4062007]

Thank you !!! I will try it once i receive the cv axles. ;)

[bronsin]

I check my boots every oil change. (3X a year) Its up on ramps for the change so its easy. If you catch the boot before to many miles, you should be able to change just the boots.

Wait a minute.

This is nuts unless you donT trust $90 axles and want to keep your Toyota ones. When they came out with FWD in the 80s the boots lasted like 50k miles. Most people would just buy new axles.

Now they last practically forever.

Anyone have a CV joint failure with intact boots?

[yaris4062007]

My car was in perfect condition until i let someone else drive it. Learn my lesson , dont let anyone drive my car.
My cousin hit a sidewalk or something Damaged front bumper, fender, broken lower control arm, damaged wheel , wheel bearing damaged , and cv joint making weird noise. ;(

[09sedan]

only cv joint failure i had was because of a torn boot that i didnt notice until the next oil change by then it was too late. (95 avalon with 300k kms on it)

[bronsin]

Yikes!

Im kind of stunned at what Toyota is charging for the axles and what outside suppliers are charging.

[DARKSCOPE001]

normally they never fail unless you have a torn boot. They are building these things so good these days. I suppose it is possible but 9 times out of 10 the boot will let go long before the grease has let go and quit lubricating.

Yaris406 im sorry man that your cuz did that to you. He owes you his first born

And yes maybe this is just my oppinion but i would trust cheep remans to replace OE. I mean yes they are Reman but Its almost like if you were to take your stock axles off. Get a rebuild kit, clean em up, and put em back in. I think you will be fine :) Car mfrs charge so much for parts its not funny.

(because im a windbag and im full of stories let me tell you another, My last car 99 hyundai elantra R.I.P. I did the timing belt on. The OE belt from the dealer was like 50 bucks. and not much cheaper from a parts supplier for genuine hyundai parts, idler pulley and tensioner pulley were about 50ish a piece. so all together just for the T belt and nothing else it would be 150+ S&H, Was on amazon found a timing belt kit for my car made by gates so i rolled the dice. Guess what? when I took the old belt off the belts had the same model number and everything on them and even said gates, only difference was the OE belt had a hyundai emblem on it. More than likely the same exact thing. I got the belt kit Belt/both pulleys for 50 bucks!) Ok sorry story over <moral, your paying for the name more than anything else

Thanks
Sean Scott

[yaris4062007]

I thought about replacing the boots only but $30-40.00 for boots and grease not worth it. It has around 83k miles on it. ;)