Need different battery?

[suckerface]

This is a cross post from MI, but hoping to get some solid input here too...

I'm looking to replace my stock battery with something lightweight (i.e. Braille), but I don't want to shoot myself in the foot. I've just recently acquired an amp and 2 10" subs (see specs below) and don't want to overdraw the battery. I'm currently looking at the Braille B129 or the B14115. Will these do the trick for me without issue, or would it be advised to look into a good quality capacitor to help compensate?

A Kenwood eXcelon KAC-X201T (see details here):
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-xQg93F7...ms#details-tab

And two Jensen XS 10" subwoofers (details below):
http://www.electronicsbonanza.com/co...idProduct=5374

I'd like to upgrade my interior speakers at some point (hopefully this summer) and am looking at a set of component speakers from Infinity (I think...it's been a while...)

So, capacitor, yes/no? Thoughts on battery specs? I hope to get the amp and subs set up in the next month or so, so I have some time to figure things out.

[TOLMACH]

IMO save the money and invest in decent speakers or installation materials.. battery is the last thing in a high level system, same with capacitor you will need to do big 3 under the hood and proper wiring anyways

[suckerface]

The money isn't so much the concern. I'm looking to get into Auto cross soon, and that's where my priorities currently lie, so I want something that's light weight, but will work for the stereo aspect as well (killing two birds with one stone).

I appreciate your input, and am certainly not disregarding it, but am determined to take this route on things. I plan on sound deadening the back half at the same time as doing the sub/amp install (which, I know, is counter-intuitive to the weight loss for autox)

[_S7V7N_]

First off i know you say money isn't an issue but.....Google Search Braille vs Deka batteries.
Seams like it's a re badged Deka so about $150 - $200 for a Braille vs $60 - $80 for a Deka.

With the money you'll save get a battery for the rear of your car like a Stinger, Kinetik, Optima, etc....And don't say you don't want the added weight, cause you're already adding about 50lbs in the trunk, what's a few more pounds.

That Braille will not run a system properly Alone. (Google search Braille for car audio) You'll also need to do a Big 3 Upgrade.

As for a Capacitor, It'll impress chics, it's good decoration, but to pair it with that a Braille in hopes of it fixing any sort of a voltage drop, won't work. Read this : http://www.nanopulser.com.sg/capacitor.htm


My shows on t.v or i'd finish ...so read through this and post if you have any questions.

[sqcomp]

Yeah...the cap question.

Big 3, upgraded starting battery, then alty if you really need power. A capacitor and second battery are only extra loads to the alternator.

[suckerface]

I've been looking at Deka (a friend suggested them, which put me on this path), and while they are a good price for a good battery, the Brailles seem to have more CCA and lower weight without the price being too high ($80 Deka v $140 Braille). I'll work on the Big 3 (just a grounding kit, right?) this weekend.

Any suggestions on an amp kit?

[_S7V7N_]

Not a good idea to run an audio system off that battery. Alone. (If you googled Braille for audio systems) you should've came across 100 + diff post about it being a bad idea.

Not just a grounding kit. Lots of post about the Big 3 so no need to go into detail.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0050I6KII/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1337017844&sr=8-1 for a small system.
And a 0 gauge kit for multiple amps

[talnlnky]

if you want to do autocross & have a tiny battery with a very small reserve capacity PLUS have a stereo too.... then think hard about upgrading your alternator, and NEVER run your stereo when your car is turned off.

ps, upgrading your alt is very expensive, I paid $400 to have one built for my mazda, and it only did 160amps.

[TOLMACH]

if you want to do autocross & have a tiny battery with a very small reserve capacity PLUS have a stereo too.... then think hard about upgrading your alternator, and NEVER run your stereo when your car is turned off.

ps, upgrading your alt is very expensive, I paid $400 to have one built for my mazda, and it only did 160amps.

Just curious

Did the more powerful alrernator reduce the gas mileage on your Mazda?

Thanks

[suckerface]

I'm thinking, at this rate, I may just get a Deka/Braille and have it on reserve for when I do autox, and run the OEM (or something a bit lighter, with as good of a load) for DD purposes. It seems like I'm not going to be able to get the best of both worlds...

I'll keep doing some research, and keep you guys posted if I find anything. _S7V7N_ and sqcomp, thanks for the advice/input, it's really appreciated!

[_S7V7N_]

No prob man if you have any specific questions about The Big 3 feel free to ask. Link :http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26456

And I believe Garm at the other forun has a quick disconnect setup for when he races. May wanna ask for pics of his setup. (Cali yaris)

I usually don't recommend mounting amps on sub boxes but it would be easier to do that and unhook a few wires and remove the box for racing days.

[suckerface]

FWIW, I've decided I will go with a lightweight battery (15lb or so, probably Deka). I did a lot of reading on VWVortex and such, and it seems like the Brailles become a problem when you're nearing/breaking 1000w, and my amp is a mere 300.

[reginald2]

I usually don't recommend mounting amps on sub boxes but it would be easier to do that and unhook a few wires and remove the box for racing days.


On the other side of that. I was really sad when some crack head pawned my amps alongside my subs. :(

I guess it depends on where you live though.

[suckerface]

So, I don't know the exact weight of the amp off the top of my head, but I want as clean of an install as possible. Would it be stupid to mount the amp under a seat?

[talnlnky]

Just curious

Did the more powerful alrernator reduce the gas mileage on your Mazda?

Thanks

not that I could tell.... of course it did, but it was less than 1mpg, so i didn't notice a difference.

[sqcomp]

if you want to do autocross & have a tiny battery with a very small reserve capacity PLUS have a stereo too.... then think hard about upgrading your alternator, and NEVER run your stereo when your car is turned off.

The only thing I might say to that is, if you want to have a system with a racing battery, invest in a power supply that you can plug into a wall.

http://www.halfpricecaraudio.com/images/D/SPS60-01-01.jpg

I use the original brand version of this...damn if I can remember the name of it at the moment (going senile). It is a great tool for me.