DIY: Nonstop Tuning CR-Lite Pulley

[ChinoCharles]

MOVED

[ChinoCharles]

.

[CASTREX]

Please tell me you weight both pulleys??? What's the diff?

[ChinoCharles]

I didn't weigh both pulleys. It doesn't take a rocket scientist to realize there is a huge difference between the two. If anyone would like to weigh the two, I'll add it to the DIY. :biggrin:

[eTiMaGo]

pimpin'!

Can't wait to see a weird groovy red donut in my engine bay soon!

[spkrman]

why *wouldnt* you weigh the 2, lol.

I plan on weighing mine on the fedex scales :)

[Doc Zaius]

Awesome writeup!!! Can't wait for spring and getting this on the car! :biggrin:

[PetersRedYaris]

Nice! Do you notice ANY increase in engine vibration? I would also like to know the weights of each, just to know.

[ChinoCharles]

No increase in engine vibration whatsoever. The car feels stock with a little bit more pep... its nothing thats going to send you barrelling to 100 MPH or anything, but its there and it makes life easier.

You guys just won't get off this specific weight thing, will you? :wink: I'll see if I can't get some numbers in the next couple days then.

[Chris07LB]

Well it's sure no Chris07LB DIY Write_Up,:rolleyes: (bustin chops!) but I knew you could do it man. :biggrin: :thumbsup:

[ChinoCharles]

Well it's sure no Chris07LB DIY Write_Up,:rolleyes: (bustin chops!) but I knew you could do it man. :biggrin: :thumbsup:

:bow: :bow: :bow:

I may have one under my belt, but I know who runs the show!

[Chris07LB]

Dont mind me, im just jelouse!

[CASTREX]

[QUOTE=ChinoCharles;57109]You guys just won't get off this specific weight thing, will you? QUOTE]

No we won't!!! :barf: The porpouse of this mod is weight reduction... ain't that right?

[ChinoCharles]

As I've stated before, in-hand estimation had me guessing the NST pulley is about 80% lighter than stock. If you guys want numbers, though, then numbers you will get.

[Nutzoids]

As I've stated before, in-hand estimation had me guessing the NST pulley is about 80% lighter than stock. If you guys want numbers, though, then numbers you will get.

:cry: I want Numbers God Damn It :cry:

:evil:

[St_G]

Well...sort of...though the EFFECT of the reduction in that specific spot is relaly of more interest to me than the amount of reduction.

The porpouse of this mod is weight reduction... ain't that right?

[elsteverino889]

Gangsta

[Chris07LB]

Gangsta


:rolleyes: ...... :laughabove:

[ChinoCharles]

OEM Toyota Pulley - 50.00 oz
ZPI pulley - 14.4 oz
NST pulley - 12.5 oz

The DIY has been edited to include this information. Thanks for your PATIENCE. :rolleyes: :bellyroll:

[Chris07LB]

:thumbup: 'bout damn time. :tongue:

[CASTREX]

75% reduction :w00t:

["G"]

And the difference...

3369
3370
3371


quick question that "shitty" stock pulley has a rubber material towards the inside right ?

[jmew0ng]

i smell harmonic balance thread whatever coming around .___.

[forpinks]

can it improve fuel economy?

[jdubau55]

Any weight removed from the vehicle improves MPG. Simple fact.

[spkrman]

Any weight removed from the vehicle improves MPG. Simple fact.

maybe I cant get 40mpg because I'm a l@rd @$$ :cool:

[Galavoxx]

Any weight removed from the vehicle improves MPG. Simple fact.

Though I do agree with you that less weight is better for MPG, when were talking rotating mass, this is not true.

A crude explanation: as you start to decrease rotating mass by lightening things like the pulleys and the flywheel, MPG may suffer. The engine revs faster and once spun up it takes more gas to keep things going. Lower mass will take less time to dissapate the energy put into it. Toyota knows this and has designed certain portions of the drivetrain to take advantage of rotating mass for optimal mpg. The pullys are one of these portions. Gains or losses in mpg will be most noticeable on the highway. Around-town should remain the same or maybe get better. Maybe. :rolleyes: The main reason for a possible decrease on the highway is that the RPM at which the engine wants to 'cruise' will likely be eliminated. This is due to a less efficient energy storage system. Anyway, wtf do I know. With only the pulley changed out and the flywheel the same, there likely wont be much change.

[Galavoxx]

Hey Chino... how is the idle? Notice any difference or have to make any adjustments?

[eTiMaGo]

Though I do agree with you that less weight is better for MPG, when were talking rotating mass, this is not true.

A crude explanation: as you start to decrease rotating mass by lightening things like the pulleys and the flywheel, MPG may suffer. The engine revs faster and once spun up it takes more gas to keep things going. Lower mass will take less time to dissapate the energy put into it. Toyota knows this and has designed certain portions of the drivetrain to take advantage of rotating mass for optimal mpg. The pullys are one of these portions. Gains or losses in mpg will be most noticeable on the highway. Around-town should remain the same or maybe get better. Maybe. :rolleyes: The main reason for a possible decrease on the highway is that the RPM at which the engine wants to 'cruise' will likely be eliminated. This is due to a less efficient energy storage system. Anyway, wtf do I know. With only the pulley changed out and the flywheel the same, there likely wont be much change.

That's true, at a constant rotational speed, a heavier weight acts as a "buffer" that keeps the rotation steady (think of a spinning top). So, less input is required from the motor to keep the rotation, and gas can be saved. But compared to the frictional forces from air drag, and the fact that the flywheel weighs a lot more than a single small pulley, I don't think it will make such a huge difference.

BUT! In order to get the rotation up to speed, there is more inertia to be overcome (think of how much effort you spend spinning a small, light top vs spinning a larger heavy one), which is where more fuel is required. So, in this kind of stop-and-go traffic situation, less rotational mass can have a good effect on performance and mileage.

Of course, the disadvantage of removing rotational mass in a 4-cylinder daily driver is the idle quality. The engine needs the heavy weight of the flywheel to keep it going during the 3 non-power strokes. So, when you reduce this mass, the engine will slow down between rotations, and at a lower engine speed (idling), this can make things very rough, even stall the engine.

But, as I mentioned before, 80% (if not more) of the rotational mass in our engine/transmission would be from the flywheel, so a ligher crank pulley should not be such a big difference that it can cause problems.

At least that's what my physics education tells me, I can't wait to see the effects for myself :biggrin:

[Galavoxx]

I think you explained it better. but I tried... :smoking:

[eTiMaGo]

I think you explained it better. but I tried... :smoking:

A for effort :biggrin:

ah this "education" had to come in useful sometime.. I used to love physics, best in my class... but that was many many moons ago :tongue:

[ChinoCharles]

Hey Chino... how is the idle? Notice any difference or have to make any adjustments?

I definitely didn't have to make any adjustments. Within 5 minutes of the install I was back on the road again. No issues.

[Galavoxx]

Good to know. Now where's my damn pully!!!

[ChinoCharles]

I just got word pulleys should ship out mid next week. Let the crying begin! :laugh:

[Astroman]

I have mine installed. Love it! :thumbup: Thank you Chino Charles! :bow:

[ChinoCharles]

Astroman, can you feel the difference in rev speed? Engine idle? What is your take on it?

[YarisGuy]

I love my NST pulley. My idle seems smoother now than it did before and I have better response in every gear at every RPM. I hope they release other pulleys for us soon :biggrin:

[Chris07LB]

Any GB gonna happen for a complete pulley set once they are ready? If so, ill just hold off until then. :cool:

[ChinoCharles]

I'd hold off. :wink:

[Astroman]

Astroman, can you feel the difference in rev speed? Engine idle? What is your take on it?

It revs up quicker, which I notice the most when I give it more than half throttle to full throttle at speeds above 30mph or so. At a standstill in "P" :rolleyes: when I rev it up it sounds smoother. As far as idle goes, it seems like the car is quieter now. From about 20ft away I can barely here it running, and thats with the TRD exhaust. All in all the car feels lighter when I give it some gas (or a lot, lol), seems smoother and revs up quicker. I haven't got the numbers yet on MPG (the last time I checked before the install I got 28.9mpg, but I was pushing the car pretty hard in town and on the freeway, almost all of my driving was in town for that tank). I do know I filled up a couple days ago and even with all in town driving my gas gauge hasn't dropped a bar. I should have some good numbers next week.

[Chris07LB]

I'd hold off. :wink:

Check email for new pictures...

[Frank]

ey cris07

you are mexican?

[ChinoCharles]

ey cris07

you are mexican?

BBAAAAAHHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAH

[Frank]

ey cris07LB

you are mexican?

[Frank]

NO IM SERIOUS..:respekt:

[Frank]

SOMEBODY KNOW IF IN US EXIST BODY KITS FOR MY LIFTBACK?:iono:

[ChinoCharles]

I don't doubt it! It was just EXTREMELY funny. In the year or so I've been here looking at that sombrero, nobody has asked that.

:respekt: to you my friend! WELCOME TO YARISWORLD!

[Frank]

THANKS BRO:smile:

[Frank]

chino where are you from?

[ChinoCharles]

Far, far away in a land unspoken.

[Terrorize]

Hmm...anyone know what the effect this pulley change will have on an auto trans? Same as manual? Any point in changing it at all?? Wanted to change my flywheel...to a lighter one but turns out i don't GOT one! heh heh...

[Astroman]

Hmm...anyone know what the effect this pulley change will have on an auto trans? Same as manual? Any point in changing it at all?? Wanted to change my flywheel...to a lighter one but turns out i don't GOT one! heh heh...
I have the auto, and I can say, the NST pulley made a difference. I am getting better gas mileage, more mid-range torque, a quiet engine, and better acceleration. Not so much "off the line" but very noticeable if you already have some forward momentum and give the accelerator a push. It also weighs about 2lbs less than the stock pulley. I love mine and did notice the difference. :wub:

[Terrorize]

Cool....thanks dude...in that case i will consider getting it! Heh heh...

[Yaris Revenge]

Very interesting...

I have a seriously noob question though. Having never tackled anything remotely close to this myself, what keeps the whole pulley/shaft from rotating as you tighten that bolt down to 120+lbs?

~YR

[yaris4062007]

does it void the warranty?? nst pully
If not , I will get one :)

[ChinoCharles]

To answer the question, yes, you will have to hold the pulley while torquing the bolt. It is a small detail I missed in the original DIY, and it has been edited to now include that information.

Here is yet another DIY for the NST pulley on a Scion tC for anyone that wants yet another example of how to install this piece correctly. Sexy car, too... check out the orange rims! :eek:

http://www.tunerzine.com/articlestzcorner.asp?id=219

[AlphaFox]

How do you 'hold' it?

[ChinoCharles]

I would suggest grabbing a friend really quick and having them loop a shop rag or something through one of the holes in the pulley. I explained this in the first post. Sorry for the confusion.

[Yaris Revenge]

Cool, thanks Chino!

BTW, that Scion is awesome! But what's that odd little red ring on the bumper? Does it talk when you pull the string? :laugh:

~YR

[ChinoCharles]

LOL! When you pull it the car's hydraulic suspension makes it do a jig.

Actually, its a tow hook for when race cars get into trouble and need to be carted off the course quickly.

[hasher22]

ATTN CHINO


QUOTE

The next step is releasing the tension on your belt. Luckily, these are Toyotas and our namesake made this process very easy. There is a 14mm bolt next to the alternator that sits in a banana-shaped groove. First, mark the position of the bolt so you know how much tension was on the belt stock. Now if you loosen this bolt, the alternator and its pulley will slide forward, thus releasing tension on your belt. It isn't easy, but a quick couple bashings with a prybar and a rubber mallet should do the trick.


where the hell is it?? i cant find no 14mm bolt in / next to the banana shaped grove.....

my car is half hacked and i need to know asap!!!


OR IF ANYONE KNOWS!! PLZ!!

[eTiMaGo]

Sounds liek you're looking for something that looks kinda like this

[hasher22]

arrrg!!! i did that...nothing came loose nor it moved at all.......and it wasnt 14mm it was 9mm at my end....


edit : the bolt on my "banana" was more than halfway already....though nothing has been mellowed out......stupid banana

[eTiMaGo]

aah, there may be a difference in size between the two countries...

I have not done this mod myself, but try and loosen the other screw holding the alternator, maybe it's too tight and won't allow the whole thing to pivot.

[hasher22]

tried that too.....nothing loosened up.....i tried "forcing" the thing to move down a bit but nothing budged......

i guess theres different bolt sizes but the process shouldnt be different......

[eTiMaGo]

then I'm out of ideas, mate... :iono:

[hasher22]

me fookin too....then i was right with the DIY of the "banana" bolt but nothing seems to budge........wtf.....

[ChinoCharles]

It ain't easy Hasher! Grab a mallet and a chisel and make her move! That is, after you've loosened that bolt. I'll keep an eye on this thread this morning in case you run into any other issues, or just PM me or send me a message on AIM.

[Black Yaris]

some time you need to loosen up the other bolts up just a tad to get them to move instead of resorting to the hammer

[ChinoCharles]

What he said... I just usually resort to hammers. :laugh: I'm hoping his lack of response means he had some luck.

[Yaris Revenge]

Yeah, try loosening that pivot bolt at the bottom of the alternator... if it was too tight, it could probably prevent it from rotating. Maybe they used too much thread locker on it and it gummed up the swiveling part....

~YR

[Chris07LB]

OOOOOOOOOOOOhhhhhhh STOP..

[hasher22]

thanks guy ill try take another stab at it...if it moves or not.....i had to reassemble everything cuz it was like 10pm when i posted my concern....arrhg

[07typeS]

yea I just tackled mine right now. Great DIY, the only thing I would like to add on is loosening up that bottom bolt holding the alternator in. It allowed the alternator to pivot a lot easier. I wasn't to keen on beating at it with a rubber malet. That bottom bolt (14mm) was a PAIN IN THE ASS to loosen up. Once I got that off everything else was a breeze.

[ChinoCharles]

The DIY has been edited with this information. Thanks for the replies guys.

[hasher22]

For fook sake...is it me or my damn car....nothing is going right for me....

i cant take the crank bolt off.....damn stupid bolts why dont they make it simple.....

any tricks of gettin it off without an air ratchet thing?

[Galavoxx]

For fook sake...is it me or my damn car....nothing is going right for me....

i cant take the crank bolt off.....damn stupid bolts why dont they make it simple.....

any tricks of gettin it off without an air ratchet thing?

Go to Kragen, Napa, or other lenient return policay auto parts store. Buy an electric impact gun. Gently unpack it. Take off bolt. Put on pulley. Install bolt to proper torque specs. Clean impact gun. Return electric impact gun in original packaging as if never used?!! and yes, I've done it before. :biggrin:

ps. if you buy one with adjustable torque, you can put the bolt back on with the gun too. And remember to use loctite.

[Astroman]

You might see if autozone has something like that (if they are in your area). They offer a free loan-a-tool program. You pay for the tool, then when you return it they refund your $$ 100%. I've used it quite a bit for tools that I don't often need.

[MudBug]

You might see if autozone has something like that (if they are in your area). They offer a free loan-a-tool program. You pay for the tool, then when you return it they refund your $$ 100%. I've used it quite a bit for tools that I don't often need.


They have the same thing at Checker Auto. I just used it for a set of strut spring compression clamps.

[hasher22]

yea over here in australia i tried lookin for an electric ratchet (other words impact gun?) nothing....stupid stores has sold out...

and too much money for a air ratchet thingy....arrg...

u know what, the pulley is pissin me off cuz of the 14mm crank bolt......next time i get my car serviced im gonna tell them to install it...har har dont care if it costs me $50 or so....bleh

[Black Yaris]

breaker bar should only be like $15 bux

[hasher22]

I official hate the pulley. There is no way i can take that bolt off. I have snapped 2 wrenches and bent one.....

I have been to hardware shops and they dont sell breaker bars on its own.

Im forced to pay a mechanic to do it for me.....arrrg all becuz that one bolt.

[07typeS]

I official hate the pulley. There is no way i can take that bolt off. I have snapped 2 wrenches and bent one.....

I have been to hardware shops and they dont sell breaker bars on its own.

Im forced to pay a mechanic to do it for me.....arrrg all becuz that one bolt.

lol dude dont give it up. you are pulling the right way right? I know that sounds stupid, but I have done it before. The bolt is very tight, but I dont think enough to be breaking wrenches.

[eTiMaGo]

Well I got mine installed today at my favorite workshop :biggrin:

The mechanics had a very hard time taking out the crank bolt too, even with an air tool, but their solution was quite different (and crazy)

One guy put a ratchet on the crank bolt and held it in place TIGHT
Another guy then cranked the engine for half a second. and POP went the crank bolt...

Don't try this at home, thought, it looked like a very easy way to break your arm in two, and cause much damage to the engine bay :laugh:

No driving impressions yet, though, I left the car there to check the alignment (it veers a bit to the left at highway speeds), and get a nice wash and wax inside and out :smile:

[07typeS]

Well I got mine installed today at my favorite workshop :biggrin:

The mechanics had a very hard time taking out the crank bolt too, even with an air tool, but their solution was quite different (and crazy)

One guy put a ratchet on the crank bolt and held it in place TIGHT
Another guy then cranked the engine for half a second. and POP went the crank bolt...

Don't try this at home, thought, it looked like a very easy way to break your arm in two, and cause much damage to the engine bay :laugh:

No driving impressions yet, though, I left the car there to check the alignment (it veers a bit to the left at highway speeds), and get a nice wash and wax inside and out :smile:

LOL man thats a crazy way to get that bolt off. Actually the problem most of us have been having problem with, is the lower alternator bolt. I actually did not have any problem with the crank bolt, and I used an electric impact wrench.

[07typeS]

I picked the zpi pulley up for real cheap and decided to give it a go. I pulled it off lastnight because the noise was starting to bug me. I was getting a "ting" noise.....so it was removed.......I have pulled it off multiple times and put it back on with the same noise. lastnight i put the original one on and had no noise.

so no more zpi for me.

[Galavoxx]

What kind of "ting" noise? Like when the motor is colling down? Mine definitley makes a whining noise if you listen to it. You have ot be outside the car though. It's really high pitch. Probably from the aluminum resonating from the belt friction. I've looked to see if it has caused any issues and checked the belt tension and bolt. Everything is fine. It might just be a side affect of the pulley being aluminum. :iono:

[07typeS]

yea its not really a constant tinging, more like a "ting ting".....and its very noticable inside the car even with the radio on and even worse outside. Its actually embarrasing having that noise come from a car thats 5 months old.........

im wondering if the nst pulley would be different........

but i actually think there may be a design flaw in the pulley somewhere....

[Galavoxx]

Mine is NST.

[CASTREX]

Well I got mine installed today at my favorite workshop :biggrin:

The mechanics had a very hard time taking out the crank bolt too, even with an air tool, but their solution was quite different (and crazy)

One guy put a ratchet on the crank bolt and held it in place TIGHT
Another guy then cranked the engine for half a second. and POP went the crank bolt...

Don't try this at home, thought, it looked like a very easy way to break your arm in two, and cause much damage to the engine bay :laugh:

No driving impressions yet, though, I left the car there to check the alignment (it veers a bit to the left at highway speeds), and get a nice wash and wax inside and out :smile:


Haha... same way I did to install mine. :thumbup: That crank bolt refused to came out even with the air tool.

x2... don't try this at home!

[Astroman]

ZPI has had quality control issues in the past and their pulley is heavier than the NST. That along with Chino's recommendation helped me choose the NST over ZPI and I couldn't be happier. Improved MPG, more midrange to top-end power, and no "noise". Oh also I don't know who said this, but the stock pulley doesn't have any rubber on it. I think a dealer told them this. It's :bs:

[jdium]

Of course, the disadvantage of removing rotational mass in a 4-cylinder daily driver is the idle quality. The engine needs the heavy weight of the flywheel to keep it going during the 3 non-power strokes. So, when you reduce this mass, the engine will slow down between rotations, and at a lower engine speed (idling), this can make things very rough, even stall the engine.


The engine fires a piston on every rotation. 4 stroke, 4 piston..............

Why the need for a heavy flywheel? Light means quick acceleration and quick deceleration. Comes down to how the driver manages the car............

[frownonfun]

hey don't know if someone may have asked this already but how do you keep the stock pulley from turning when you are loosening the bolt.

[Klink10]

hey don't know if someone may have asked this already but how do you keep the stock pulley from turning when you are loosening the bolt.

The main way is use an air impact wrench.

[frownonfun]

k... i mean i guess i understand that part, and i can use one of those from work but i just assumed the pulley would still turn to the left whether using a ratchet or impact unless you hold it in place with something.

[Klink10]

Not really....with enough force the impact hits it so hard it will spin it right off. I hit mine and it started to turn so I stopped and hit it again...it's technique and if you use them at work shouldn't be a problem. Just get it loose and use fingers to take off. Don't lose track of the little pin and be sure to re-install it.

[frownonfun]

lol... well i don't actually use them. those just aren't really in my job description. nevertheless i will give it a shot. wasn't sure but now i know.

thank you much.

[PetersRedYaris]

Getting it off is cake... The real difficult part is torqueing down the bolt to 128ft/lbs when putting the new pully on.

[frownonfun]

The real difficult part is torqueing down the bolt to 128ft/lbs

it's not that i doubt you but where did you get this amount from? is that really what it needs to be torqued down at?

[Klink10]

That is the torque amount called for....and what I would recommend. Now how to get it there with a big old torque wrench in the small confines is the problem. Ahem....tell you what I did....after replacing with the NST pulley, and replacing the little dowel pin and with the threads on the crank and nut all clean checked by securing on the crank by hand several times....I placed a couple of drops of loctite close to the nuts final resting point and by hand ran it all the way and then hit it hard with the air impact wrench. Just remember to take your time, try it a few times for feel, make sure it goes back the way it came off (just replacing a wheel, nothing else), drop or 2 of Loctite and don't crossthread (why I ran it all the way by hand before impact wrench).

Disclaimer: Torque to limit as specified.

[PetersRedYaris]

That is the torque amount called for....and what I would recommend. Now how to get it there with a big old torque wrench in the small confines is the problem. Ahem....tell you what I did....after replacing with the NST pulley, and replacing the little dowel pin and with the threads on the crank and nut all clean checked by securing on the crank by hand several times....I placed a couple of drops of loctite close to the nuts final resting point and by hand ran it all the way and then hit it hard with the air impact wrench. Just remember to take your time, try it a few times for feel, make sure it goes back the way it came off (just replacing a wheel, nothing else), drop or 2 of Loctite and don't crossthread (why I ran it all the way by hand before impact wrench).

Disclaimer: Torque to limit as specified.

I guarantee you’re not the only one to use an impact... People should know that different impact wrenches vary widely in their power output. It's probably unlikely anyone could strip the threads in the crankshaft or bolt (by over-tightening) because of the materials and size, but no-one wants to damage their new (aluminum) pulley. Just be sure to check the torque outputs on your air wrench; If your wrench has three settings, it's very likely you'll only need to use power I or II.

Many on this forum will be appalled by using a torque wrench to tighten anything, but as always, if you know a better way please share.

[frownonfun]

hmmm... well today i was off work but really wanted to give this a go so i went to a hardware store and bought an electrical impact wrench just to see. work for me is 90 miles away and i don't usually make a habit of taking my car out that way because i can just ride with the welder i work with anyway. i figured buying a power impact wrench to save me from putting 180 miles on my car was a fair trade. i thought hell i might even get some other uses out of it anyway.

well of course it didn't go as planned... had the car jacked up, wheel off, alternator loosened from the bracket and everything (AGAIN) but the thing just wouldn't budge. so that kinda sucks. guess i will just break down and drive to work tomorrow to use the air impact. a half want to just say screw it and pay someone else to do it cause i'm kinda getting tired of mucking with it at this point. i just had no idea that thing would be on there that dang tight.

[Klink10]

Many on this forum will be appalled by using a torque wrench to tighten anything, but as always, if you know a better way please share.[/QUOTE]

No I don't at least in regards to the crank pulley and yea I would and did check my air wrench output when I did mine. You put it better though in regards to the topic. I hope they get it right either way.

[jkuchta]

I'm going to be installing the crank pulley soon myself, and was wondering....


Couldn't you just put the car in gear (manual trans), and have a friend step on the brakes while you loosen or torque down the crank bolt? The clutch would hold under 128 ft.lbs. right?

IMO I wouldn't do this mod without a torque wrench...too loose and you could really F-up the crank itself when/if the bolt backs out...plus a loss of the crank pulley will kill the power to the car once the battery dies, leaving you stranded.

[Klink10]

I'm going to be installing the crank pulley soon myself, and was wondering....


Couldn't you just put the car in gear (manual trans), and have a friend step on the brakes while you loosen or torque down the crank bolt? The clutch would hold under 128 ft.lbs. right?

IMO I wouldn't do this mod without a torque wrench...too loose and you could really F-up the crank itself when/if the bolt backs out...plus a loss of the crank pulley will kill the power to the car once the battery dies, leaving you stranded.

You could try that....I can't say as I was dealing with an automatic. Chino's DIY at the beginning mentioned tying the pulley down to secure. In the end however he used a air impact gun. The problem with a torque wrench is the limited amount of space to work with and the availability of such a tool to most of the folks doing this mod. I can say that I've done this twice starting with the reg light pulley and then going to the underdrive. On both occasions it took the impact to get it off, which means the impact did its job in putting it on along with a drop of Loctite.

[regal]

Sorry to bump an old thread. I know there was a time when the crank pulley served as part of the crank balance on engines. Is there a risk with this Lite pulley throwing off the reciprocating mass and shortening engine life? Why wouldn't Toyota have just made a pulley like this OEM?

["G"]

Yes ^ don't do it.

[jmjonesey]

Sorry to bump an old thread. I know there was a time when the crank pulley served as part of the crank balance on engines. Is there a risk with this Lite pulley throwing off the reciprocating mass and shortening engine life? Why wouldn't Toyota have just made a pulley like this OEM?

bump

[NonStopTuning]

Interesting...

The answer to this question, and almost every other pulley related question, can be found in the following thread...

http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4737&page=12

Good luck and have fun with all your projects everyone!

[posaunemeister]

Trying to get this OEM pulley off is a pain in the butt, especially since I don't have the proper tools. I think I will put this mod off for a few days until I find someone who will loan me an air/electric impact wrench. The pulley keeps rotating as I try to loosen the middle bolt. I gave up for the night and left everything laying out in my garage. I'm also doing a DIY custom axleback exhaust, so my car is pretty much incapacitated at the moment. :smile:

[posaunemeister]

Nothing is going right, it seems. I've decided to just take the Dynomax Super Turbo muffler to the exhaust shop early in the morning to have them weld it on. I went by the common misconception on this forum that our stock exhaust axleback tubing is 1.75", so I purchased a few adapters and clamps for my muffler, went home, cut off the stock muffler and tried to pair the parts together to no avail. It turns out that the axleback exhaust actually measures 1.5" ID (no kidding). Since the space for the muffler is so limited, I decided to not try to make several adapters AND a muffler fill in that space. It just wouldn't make sense. I should've just gone to the exhaust shop in the first place AND I should've measured the exhaust tubing on my own before undertaking this project. You live and you learn. So, I will get up early in the morning and get this taken care of. I feel sorry for those who will be woke up by the blaring sound of my muffler-less exhaust... :eyebulge:

Anyway, I'm going to replicate this custom axleback: http://www.yarisworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9520 , except I will paint my entire axleback with three coats of high gloss ceramic black spray paint to help retard the rusting, as I live in an area that gets a lot of snow in the winter. Thanks for the inspiration, Largeorangefont.

I also realized that Dynomax makes both their Super Turbo brand mufflers and the Thrush Turbo mufflers and they are pretty much identical in every aspect. They are both aluminized and the locks are spun (not welded). They have identical dimensions. The only difference that I noticed (besides the brand name logo) is that the Dynomax was about one pound (.45 kgs) heavier than the Thrush Turbo, perhaps due to more fiberglass packing or an extra internal wall (?).

On a lighter side, I put out an ad on Craigslist seeking for someone to loan me their electric impact wrench and a kind gentleman quickly responded and doesn't want anything! Of course, I will repay him somehow anyway. But yeah, he has both an electric and the air-compressed variety, as well as a slew of other tools. I have to travel 20min, but I'm sure it will be well worth it. I will post the outcome on here when all is complete.

Cheers! :wink:

[rhino5]

So....where did the beginning of this thread get moved to? My pulley will be here tomorrow and I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out...but it'd be nice to have a reference.

[Altitude]

So....where did the beginning of this thread get moved to? My pulley will be here tomorrow and I'm sure I'll be able to figure it out...but it'd be nice to have a reference.

I would guess it's been moved to the MicroImage forum, though I haven't checked. It's a shame Charles had to remove all of his DIY's for spite.

[WeeYari]

I would guess it's been moved to the MicroImage forum, though I haven't checked. It's a shame Charles had to remove all of his DIY's for spite.

Yes, it is on the MI forum. I went there this past Wednesday to walk myself through a NST 10% UDP.

It is a very simple DIY, especially if you have an impact wrench to remove the crank bolt. That is the only potential difficult step if you need to rely on breaker bars to loosen that sucker.

[ozmdd]

Wow...if this forum fight is going to continue, I think it will kill both of them. Definitely a turn-off for me.

[puetato89]

Wow...if this forum fight is going to continue, I think it will kill both of them. Definitely a turn-off for me.

+1

:brokenheart:

[posaunemeister]

I just installed mine and I definitely notice a huge difference. The RPMs take off in 1st gear. Before you can even blink your eyes, it's already time to shift to 2nd. The engine is significantly more responsive and the initial take-offs are cleaner & peppy. When you get into the upper mph's, the feels like it works a lot less. It's a different that you, too, will notice.

You will need a torque wrench and an impact gun. I put an ad out on craigslist seeing if someone would rent theirs out to me and I asked if I could do the work in their driveway (makes them more willing to let strangers use their multi-hundred dollar tools). A very kind gentleman, who does his own repair work and works for a wrecker company, let me use all of the tools that I needed, free of charge. I rewarded him handsomely, nevertheless, because I was so taken back by his act of kindness. I love meeting good people like that. He even offered to mount n' balance my wheels if I ever decided to get a set of aftermarket wheels! OK, anyway, It took a total of 45-50min for the install, just like Charles said. It wasn't easy, though. It was actually a huge pain, specifically loosening the lower alternator bolt, even with the long 14mm hand wrench. The upper 12mm bolt on the banana bracket was a breeze to loosen. In order to get the correct tension on your belt after the install, I recommend using a long pry-bar to get the belt at the correct tension and then tighten the upper alternator bolt (easier access), and then the lower bolt. This may require an extra hand.

Btw, I did purchase my pulley from Garm at MicroImage. He shipped it off via USPS Priority Mail and it arrived shortly after. It was an easy transaction with no hassles, and the price was the cheapest I could find online. Thanks, man!

[mrbond]

WTF chino.

[PETERPOOP]

chino iz ghey

[puetato89]

chino iz ghey

lol

[cfbrodierice]

Hello all, I am brand new to the forum. I work on landcruisers and such. I am thinking of buying a yaris for a commuter. Just one thing to say about a lightweight crank pulley... and just my .02....
There is a reason it has a certain weight, so that any vibration in the crank is partially absorbed through the harmonic balancer. you change over to a lightweight and solid pulley and it no longer can do it's job. Ya your engine accels faster, but long term it could make your main bearings wear out faster....

[regal]

Hello all, I am brand new to the forum. I work on landcruisers and such. I am thinking of buying a yaris for a commuter. Just one thing to say about a lightweight crank pulley... and just my .02....
There is a reason it has a certain weight, so that any vibration in the crank is partially absorbed through the harmonic balancer. you change over to a lightweight and solid pulley and it no longer can do it's job. Ya your engine accels faster, but long term it could make your main bearings wear out faster....

I'm an automotive engineer abd what he is saying is true, going to these aftermarket pulleys is turning your 400k+ potential Yaris into a throwaway car, might as well buy a kia.