View Full Version : Fogs that won't light
Golddeenoh
05-16-2012, 03:18 PM
I installed the fog light per the instructions:
http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/MI_Foglights_install.pdf
http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/2006-2011%20Yaris%20Aftermarket%20Fog%20Light%20Switch% 20Wiring.pdf
^this one tells me to remove the wrong resistor, the other one is the one that should be removed as it is the one that will stay on. so now I will have to remove both, unless I just broke the switch all together by removing the one.
I followed all the instructions as they are in both of the above. the switch lights come one but the fog lights do not. also the list image for the second set of instructions says to connect a connector together by the linkage. I only have the male end. no other connector.
1 Do I remove the wire from the switch and connect it to the open connector?
2 Would this be the reason as to why my fog light will not light?
CTScott
05-16-2012, 04:17 PM
I installed the fog light per the instructions:
http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/MI_Foglights_install.pdf
http://www.microimageonline.com/downloads/YARIS/2006-2011%20Yaris%20Aftermarket%20Fog%20Light%20Switch% 20Wiring.pdf
^this one tells me to remove the wrong resistor, the other one is the one that should be removed as it is the one that will stay on. so now I will have to remove both, unless I just broke the switch all together by removing the one.
I followed all the instructions as they are in both of the above. the switch lights come one but the fog lights do not. also the list image for the second set of instructions says to connect a connector together by the linkage. I only have the male end. no other connector.
1 Do I remove the wire from the switch and connect it to the open connector?
2 Would this be the reason as to why my fog light will not light?
The fog light kits keep changing, so unless your circuit board looks exactly like the one in my DIY, the wiring to it and hence the resistor to cut to isolate the switching from the illumination may be different. If you can take a picture of both sides of the circuit board, I can tell you for sure.
Also, in my DIY, the mention of connecting the illumination wires to the shift illumination connector assumes that you split the harness so that all of the wires coming off of the switch connector are separated.
You can simply jump pins 3 to 4 on the headlight stalk connector to make sure that the fogs, relay and under hood wiring are correct. Turn the headlight switch to on and low beams and then jump those pins. If the fogs come on then all of the under hood wiring is correct.
Golddeenoh
05-16-2012, 09:26 PM
sorry about the red one I put my finger over the flash so that it would take a better picture. without the flash it blurred.
It looks just like the one in the DIY.
I'll have to hot wire the lights tomorrow. When I do, is it the pins on that are still attached to the column or the dangling wires that would be unplugged?
CTScott
05-16-2012, 09:38 PM
sorry about the red one I put my finger over the flash so that ti would take a better picture. without the flash it blurred.
It looks just like the one in the DIY.
I'll have to hot wire the lights tomorrow. When I do, is it the pins on that are still attached to the column or the dangling wires that would be unplugged?
No pictures are attached to your post, but for hot wiring it, you can jump them with the connector still plugged in.
Golddeenoh
05-17-2012, 11:30 AM
I went to hot wire it at the connector and realized that the fault was toyota's as there are no pins for the fog lights. As you can see from the picture they are none existent. so now is it ok to wire them into the headlights of would that be too much for that circuit?
catliektheif
05-18-2012, 03:23 AM
haha Scott you should compile all of the Fog Light Problem threads and your solutions and create a FAQ to add to the bottom of your DIY
Golddeenoh
05-18-2012, 11:25 AM
jumped pin 3 to 11 now the lights work as long as the jump is in place and the switch is on.
CTScott
05-18-2012, 11:28 AM
jumped pin 3 to 11 now the lights work as long as the jump is in place and the switch is on.
Can you post a picture of your wiring at the column? It sounds like you have the switch in series with one of the wires, instead of in parallel with both of them.
vBulletin® v3.8.11, Copyright ©2000-2025, vBulletin Solutions Inc.