View Full Version : Airbag light on
I don't know what to think. This seems so random and stupid. It just radomly came on after a drive.
OK, anger aside, mechanics have been playing with my car all day to test out the fan relay and fan motor. Wondering it could be incompetence and a blown or missing airbag fuse? Is there any specific fuse that the airbag uses? Otherwise I will just take it to the dealer (again) not comfortable with jumping pins.
CTScott
06-10-2012, 09:10 AM
SRS just uses the IGN and ECU-B circuits, so it's not a fuse.
Tried jumping the pins. Couldn't get it to flash, but the light went out.
It went out a little earlier today, but then it came back on. Now when i jumped the pins, it didn't go flash a code but simply went off like normal.
EDIT: Back on again. Seems like the light comes on and off after a few drive cycles. Taking it to the dealer to get a read.
Ok, it's now sporradically on or off. Ill drive and it'll be off for awhile, then click on. Then it will turn off.
auxmike
06-10-2012, 08:00 PM
Have you ever removed the steering wheel in the past?
Golddeenoh
06-10-2012, 08:08 PM
is there a sensor in the driver's seat like there is in the passengers? I Know some times items in my passenger's seat will do that, and sometime make the seat belt light come on.
CTScott
06-10-2012, 08:26 PM
is there a sensor in the driver's seat like there is in the passengers? I Know some times items in my passenger's seat will do that, and sometime make the seat belt light come on.
No. There is just a seat position sensor on the track of the driver's seat.
Have you ever removed the steering wheel in the past?
No, I just got this car back in March.
09sedan
06-10-2012, 10:06 PM
from the sounds of it , it could be the clockspring in your steering wheel, a wire might have broken inside the harness.:frown:
...how hard is this to fix?
CTScott
06-10-2012, 11:39 PM
Have you fixed your alternator issue yet?
Reading through the SRS section of the service manual, low system voltage will make the SRS light come on, and it is the only issue that will allow the light to come on and go back off without resetting:
The center airbag sensor assembly is equipped with a voltage-increase circuit (DC-DC converter) in case the source voltage decreases. When the battery voltage decreases, the voltage-increase circuit (DC-DC converter) boosts the SRS voltage up to the normal level.
Malfunctions relating to battery voltage decreases cause the SRS warning light to illuminate, however, no DTCs are recorded in the center airbag sensor assembly. The SRS warning light goes off automatically when the source voltage returns to normal.
Actually, no I haven't. But it did cross my mind when this happened.
That actually makes sense; coupled with the extra heat of these couple days (90 degrees F outside) possible load issues with the burnt out cooling fan (maybe it caused it, IDK) that sounds like it may be plausible. Will still check it out at the Toyota dealer to see if it's an actual SRS fault or simply a bad alternator.
That probably explains why I got nothing when I tried to jump the pins...
Magically, all the Toyota dealers are booked solid for an SRS check, and it kind of terrifies me. I think they may try and tear the car to pieces.
Might be testing the alternator theory blind, but it makes sense, though. The light stays off when there is minimal electrical load (when first started) but comes on when accessories and such turn on. Then it'll tend click off when returned to idle with no accessories.
CTScott
06-11-2012, 10:19 AM
Magically, all the Toyota dealers are booked solid for an SRS check, and it kind of terrifies me. I think they may try and tear the car to pieces.
Might be testing the alternator theory blind, but it makes sense, though. The light stays off when there is minimal electrical load (when first started) but comes on when accessories and such turn on. Then it'll tend click off when returned to idle with no accessories.
Just take care of the alternator issue. You know it is a problem and based on you not seeing SRS codes with the jumper and the blurb I posted above, the alternator output is definitely the issue with your SRS.
Just checked the output of the alternator via a quick test at autozone. It's at around 14.5V, which IIRC is on the high side (no audio equipment on, and no cooling fan running). Increase of revs brings no change in voltage. I checked the codes again; light resets itself (and is no longer on). I think this thing is playing tag, and the voltage regulator is deciding to work every now and again.
Autozone guy says everything is "fine" but what does he know? Something awry here.
I still have an appointment with the Toyota dealer to get an SRS scan, but I have a feeling they aren't going to listen to me and simply take the car apart then try and charge me for something mundane.
CTScott
06-11-2012, 03:34 PM
14.5 is actually OK. The voltage regulator keeps it from climbing above that.
The alternator to battery feed may be OK, but the battery to the rest of the car feed may be corroded. Check the battery terminals for corrosion and also check where the large wires connect to the bottom of the positive battery terminal.
I should also say that the battery light will fairly often (upon startup) come on then go out. I tried checking the SRS codes after the test, and the codes reset again. I think the problem is hiding and sporadic in the alternator.
Since the car charged up, and the light generally went off I never thought anything of it.
Scratch everything I said about this.
Finally got the codes read (I was doing it wrong)
32 and 51. Yet and still, going to hold out hope and take it to Toyota...
detroiter
06-11-2012, 10:18 PM
51 is the clockspring in the steering wheel...i just got that code the other day.
See? How many Yaris is this happening to....Toyota needs to fix this problem without making it's customers pay. This is obviously a widespread problem with Toyota Yaris and there is no way in hell we should have to pay for this.
I'm about to create a petition to make Toyota fix this problem. Hope others will sign or join it.
Yeah, this is actually making me strongly contemplate getting rid of my Yaris.
Anyone know the price of fixing the clockspring? Part of me wants to DIY it.
CTScott
06-12-2012, 11:35 AM
Anyone know the price of fixing the clockspring? Part of me wants to DIY it.
The part number for it is: 84306-22010
They are ridiculously expensive (~$250). The same one is used on the Corolla, RAV4, and Highlander, so you may be able to find one on ebay or from a junk yard.
Here's a video that I put together a while back on how to remove it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgWSzVeILhc
Toyota dealer ran the codes. Its the seat sensor. They messed with the connections and got it to go off, the it came back. They're going to recalibrate the seat in a future appointment.
CTScott
06-12-2012, 05:30 PM
Toyota dealer ran the codes. Its the seat sensor. They messed with the connections and got it to go off, the it came back. They're going to recalibrate the seat in a future appointment.
The 32 is the seat sensor and the 51 is the clockspring. A recalibration of the set sensors will not clear a 32 error, which indicates a short or open in a wire.
I asked, dealer didn't see anything about that. Maybe I read them wrong? Not sure. Dealer says no past codes for clockspring at all.
Codes pulled - B1650, B1794 both related to occupant systems.
CTScott
06-12-2012, 06:22 PM
B1650: Occupant Classification System Malfunction -
B1794: Open in Occupant Classification ECU Battery Positive Line
The B1650 one is pretty generic, but the combination of the two point to either a bad OC ECU or a bad harness between it and the SRS ECU.
I'm looking at where the plug hits the sensor in the seat. I see what looks to be four holes in the female connector, with two wires running out. Is there supposed to be four wires?
CTScott
06-15-2012, 07:42 AM
I'm looking at where the plug hits the sensor in the seat. I see what looks to be four holes in the female connector, with two wires running out. Is there supposed to be four wires?
No. That's the seat belt buckle connector and it just has 2 of the 4 populated. The issue is with the black connector that plugs into the OC ECU, which is the black box mounted under the front edge of the passenger seat.
I no longer trust the Toyota dealers in Akron, or honestly, anywhere.
Took it in to get the seat "recalibrated". They ran the codes again, and "discover" the code for the spiral cable. Want to bill me $475 parts and labor for the job (not horrible, I do believe) $150 for getting the seat "recalibrated".
Screw that. I'm doing it myself.
detroiter
06-18-2012, 12:41 PM
Like I said, these kinds of things should be covered by Toyota. These are factory and parts defects, not owner caused. Unless the car was in an accident, there should be no reason for these code 51's to be happening left and right.
I guess Toyota is the new Dodge. The brand who's name says exactly what they stand for.
yup if something happens six times that must mean it will happen to every single Yaris. Oh wait, no it doesn't.
detroiter
06-18-2012, 04:09 PM
How many members are on this forum and how many actually post? I wonder how many out there there have this problem and are NOT on this forum?
For the light traffic this forum gets and there's a reoccuring question of "What is code 51?", it doesn't come off as strange to you?
Regardless of the number of Yarii's that this problem plagues, I still believe that this part should be covered by Toyota
if the car is in warranty or not. It's a safety system feature and it's not like a negligent act of having bald tires or bad
brakes made it happen. It should NEVER go faulty.
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