Buying aftermarket battery

[caineroad]

Hi,

I am hoping to find out what sort of information do I need when purchasing an aftermarket battery? I have searched and people are telling me don't waste money on OEM battery but instead get a good big name one. I have made a choice for a brand but since there are so many batteries out there, how can I tell which one fits in our Yaris?

07 HB.

Thanks

[CTScott]

The Yaris has one of the most forgiving battery locations of any car I have owned. A wide variety of batteries will fit. The most important thing is that the battery have posts and that the posts be oriented like the ones in the picture below. If the posts were the opposite of the one below (with the positive being on the right with the battery in the position shown), the Yaris battery terminals would not reach.

The battery tray is 9 1/4" wide by 7" deep and a battery with a max height (to the top of the post) of 9" will fit. If you let the battery go beyond the plastic tray, a battery up to 11" wide by 7" deep x 9" high will fit.

The OEM battery is a 45 Ah battery (amp-hour is a measure of battery capacity, and a measurement that I give more merit to than CCA, etc.) Most 45 Ah batteries will be about the same size and weight as our OEM one. With the space available, you can easily go up to a 50 or 55 Ah battery, but I wouldn't advise going down in capacity.


48413

[DMZ]

Measure the dimensions of your battery.

Go to Walmart and look up your Yaris. (Everstart is a good brand, get the Maxx if available)

Measure the recommended battery to be sure it'll fit.

Buy battery and turn in old one to be recycled.

[NEexpat]

I'm gonna make this easy for myself, and several others here,

Hey Scott, just curious, what brand batteries do you have in your YARI?

I know when the time comes and that will probably be in the next year when I replace my original battery it will probably be with a Duralast Gold, (Autozone).

[CTScott]

I'm gonna make this easy for myself, and several others here,

Hey Scott, just curious, what brand batteries do you have in your YARI?

I know when the time comes and that will probably be in the next year when I replace my original battery it will probably be with a Duralast Gold, (Autozone).

In my 09 and Crashy 2 I still have the OEM battery. In Crashy I am running a Sonnenschein A212/50 50 Ah battery, which I snarfed from a field returned battery pack from a piece of equipment I used to work on. Not something available locally, but a great battery.

As mentioned above, with the dimension info and/or the look-up chart, you can walk into Walmart, Kmart, Sears, or any autoparts store and find one that will fit. I personally prefer AGM (absorbed glass mat) batteries to wet cell or gel cell batteries, but they tend to be quite a bit more expensive.

[caineroad]

Thanks everybody! I also heard AGM are the best. I am buying one today, battery died again 2 days ago. The stock battery has been in my Yaris for 6 years, finally giving up.

[nookandcrannycar]

Measure the dimensions of your battery.

Go to Walmart and look up your Yaris. (Everstart is a good brand, get the Maxx if available)

Measure the recommended battery to be sure it'll fit.

Buy battery and turn in old one to be recycled.

I just bought a new battery for my Yaris today at Wal-Mart at 224,946 miles. I replaced the OEM battery at 138,111 miles exactly 3 years ago today. So 86,838 miles on the Sears 1 year PlusStart I just replaced. Three years ago today I had milked the OEM battery to within 15-20 miles of death. I went to Wal-Mart. They said you need a #35 battery. They put a #35 battery in and the HOOD wouldn't even close (they showed me). I told them just to put in the same size as the OEM. They said they couldn't do that. They have a little machine (rep or customer -- customers encouraged to use it as well) next to the batteries in the showroom where Make, Model, and Model Year are entered and the rep said they can only install what the machine generates (in my case only #35). So, Wal-Mart refused to install a battery for me. I managed to make it across the freeway and down a few miles to NTB (National Tire and Battery) and they had nothing in stock that would fit my car (I didn't ask for details). I managed to make it almost directly across the freeway to Sears. I almost had to push the car into their bay. Sears said the size for my car is 26R not 35 and put in their Plus Start 1yr battery at 138,111 miles and it was 49 dollars and change plus tax.---fifty something total.

This turned out to be a great battery. Earlier this year I was getting some new interference on my radio and a few other things. I read some posts here, including some from trini_per4mance (472,000+ miles on his Yaris) that he changes his battery every year. In May of this year I saw the same Plus Start in my Yaris on the Sears website for 53.98 (about 4.00 more than I paid over 2.5 years ago) I decided to get one that day. I went to the same Sears I bought the same battery at 2.5 years+ ago. THEY TOLD ME THEY WERE NOT ALLOWED TO MATCH THEIR OWN COMPANY'S PRICE ON THEIR OWN WEBSITE, and that it would cost about 80.00 instead. I said no. I went to Starbucks and did a search on the Sears website and there was a small place to do a store pickup search and prompted for a zip code. Different mileage parameters were allowed and I picked the largest which was 300 miles. Sure enough, no store pickup was available within the max 300 miles searchable using the zip code of the store I visited. I decided to shelve this replacement for a bit and possibly try to make it to 3 yrs on the current battery.

Fast forward 3 months to August of this year and I noticed that Wal-Mart had a 1yr EverStart for only 53.98 in #26R and decided to get that, but would try to make the current battery last to the 3 year point (today).
This morning I went to a different Wal-Mart than I did 3 years ago today (about 10-15 miles away). I ran up against the same thing from 3 years ago with that same machine saying only #35 and they would only install a #35. Today I had more knowledge re the #35 than I did 3 years ago (especially see the 4 page thread "How Long Should an Original Battery Last?" and especially look at posts by RedRide), so I knew some #35 batteries do fit. The only #35 they have thay they said will fit the Yaris is the 3 year Free Replacement EverStart MAXX at a penny or two under a hundred bucks. Members have taken pictures of this battery and posted it to YarisWorld. I measured the battery and it was slightly taller than the Sears PlusStart 26R in the car, but would still clear the hood and not go over the edge of the platform in the engine bay. I decided to see what else was available as there were many alternatives close by. I went to O'reilly, Advance, AutoZone, and searched Sears. Sears still has the same not honoring the web price policy. The other retailers can't compete with Wal-Mart on 'value' (what guaranteed warranty you get for what price).

I went back to Wal-Mart and told them to install the 35 series EverStart MAXX that they had previously picked out. They started to install it and then the tech came back into the sales area and said "THE CLAMP WON'T FIT ON THE 35 SO I'M GOING TO PUT IN THE 26R". He looked at me while he was saying this (I think to see if I would object -- I didn't) and grabbed a 26R and started to put it in the car. When he was almost finished I walked out into the area with the bays and said what do you mean the clamp won't fit. He showed me. He calls it a clamp. I don't know what I'd call it. It comes out of the back of the battery platform, over the top of the battery and then is secured on the front side with a, for lack of a better word 'pin'. This apparatus fit snugly on the 26R. He showed me the top of the 35 and where it was scraped/indented from his trying to get the bar over the top to lay flat so the pin could be secured.

I paid $53.98 for the 1 year Free Replacement EverStart today. I was also charged the Texas State Battery Fee of $3.00. I was charged the state CORE (explained to me as environmental) charge, but Wal-Mart reverses that back out as a courtesy. I paid $4.45 of 8.25% sales tax for a total of $61.43.

I don't know why my car has this issue. Re the pictures members have posted to YarisWorld, I assume some members have 35 series EverStart MAXX batteries in their Yari. Perhaps it is something specific to 2007 Yari or LiftBacks or 2007 LiftBacks. The clamp MIGHT be something that can be adjusted so that the 35 EverStart MAXX would fit. I didn't ask about that because I wanted the 26R, I was just denied it initially. Thank goodness this Wal-Mart installed the 26R and didn't tell me I was SOL like the other Wal-Mart did 3 years ago.

I know from the "How Long Should an Original Battery Last?" thread, that the 35 series Optima Red Top is shorter and would probably fit (allow the clamp to close and be secured). I read the reviews for many of the batteries ------ I think if you want a 3 year guaranteed replacement battery that you can get replaced at a major nationwide retailer, the series 35 EverStart MAXX at Wal-Mart for 1 or 2 pennies under one hundred is probably the best value. If you don't think you'll keep your Yaris for 3 years or might want to replace it sooner with a fresh battery (my feeling) the EverStart 1yr guarantee I got could be a good choice or--IF you live in an area that will allow store pickup at the web price then you could get the Sears PlusStart 1yr that lasted me 3 years for only 1.00 more than I paid today for the 1 year EverStart.

Before my battery replacement today I was getting static on my radio (last few months), a slightly less than snappy ignition start, and the steering was acting up a bit. I was hoping that some of these things would be remedied via getting a new battery. the result --- snappier ignition, no more radio static (so far) and pulling in stations better, and the steering at this point seems to be normal again. The only con is that it is still idling a bit rough, but it is better in that regard than when I drove away from Wal-Mart. I remember someone else on a previous post spoke about having some of the same feeling from the car after driving away. This generated a reply and if I remember correctly it was something about the ECU having to read something from the replacement battery? My acceleration is better as well....just the idle issue as a negative. Hopefully after a bit more driving that will go away. I hope soon to be battery buyers find my experience helpful:biggrin:.

[nookandcrannycar]

I'm gonna make this easy for myself, and several others here,

Hey Scott, just curious, what brand batteries do you have in your YARI?

I know when the time comes and that will probably be in the next year when I replace my original battery it will probably be with a Duralast Gold, (Autozone).

:thumbsup: I agree, your inquiry (What does Scott have in his Yari?) -- answered -- would produce what would PERFORM BY EACH INSTALLED MEASURE the best. However that MIGHT not be the same as what would be the best AND have a readily accessible guarantee (from a national chain).

I agree with DMZ. From what I read on other Yarisworld threads and on other websites re the MAXX, the Duralast Gold, and others, I'd pick the Maxx.

[nookandcrannycar]

Thanks everybody! I also heard AGM are the best. I am buying one today, battery died again 2 days ago. The stock battery has been in my Yaris for 6 years, finally giving up.

1500 miles more North than due NE (Houston to Toronto) would definitely cause different things to be important to different buyers. I want a widespread (geographically) guarantee I can use if the extreme heat makes the battery crap out. I assume your performance concerns would be opposite of mine and most pronounced at a different time of year. Congrats re 6 years on your original battery!:thumbsup:

[nookandcrannycar]

MISTAKE BY TECH -- ASSIST MGR OF WAL-MART SAID MAY USE INSURANCE

I made post #9 and most of the ones before it at a Starbucks. I had driven 63 miles after leaving Wal-Mart with the new battery installed. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, everything was 'cleared up excet I had this new roughness at idle that wasn't there before the battery install. After leaving Starbucks after post #9 I drove about 20 miles on surface streets. It didn't get any better. I pulled into the Kroger grocery store parking lot and shopped for just a few items. When I returned, I decided to take a picture of the new battery. I popped open the hood of my Yaris...AND I NOTICED THAT THE AIR FILTER BOX WAS APART WITH THE AIR FILTER EXPOSED. I assume the box had to be opened to get the old battery out. The new battery was installed, and the TECH PUT THE AIR FILTER BACK BUT DIDN'T FIT THE BOX BACK TOGETHER AND THUS DIDN'T PUT THE CLAMP ON. I SNAPPED IT BACK TOGETHER AND RECLAMPED IT. The IDLING got a LITTLE bit better. I did a few inteernet searches re this subject. My conclusion was that the first thing to do (car wise) is replace the air filter. I drove back to the Wal-Mart and talked to the Assistant Manager (Manager off), and we left it that I would ask a Toyota dealer what the next thing to do would be and then pay her a visit tomorrow (she's expecting me).

******What damage could have occurred by driving 63 miles with the air filter housing split open like that?******************

[NEexpat]

I am thinking no damage, the filter was still in place. You didn't drive through any sandstorms etc.

Of course there are others here more qualified than I am who could speak to this.

[CTScott]

MISTAKE BY TECH -- ASSIST MGR OF WAL-MART SAID MAY USE INSURANCE

I made post #9 and most of the ones before it at a Starbucks. I had driven 63 miles after leaving Wal-Mart with the new battery installed. As I mentioned earlier in this thread, everything was 'cleared up excet I had this new roughness at idle that wasn't there before the battery install. After leaving Starbucks after post #9 I drove about 20 miles on surface streets. It didn't get any better. I pulled into the Kroger grocery store parking lot and shopped for just a few items. When I returned, I decided to take a picture of the new battery. I popped open the hood of my Yaris...AND I NOTICED THAT THE AIR FILTER BOX WAS APART WITH THE AIR FILTER EXPOSED. I assume the box had to be opened to get the old battery out. The new battery was installed, and the TECH PUT THE AIR FILTER BACK BUT DIDN'T FIT THE BOX BACK TOGETHER AND THUS DIDN'T PUT THE CLAMP ON. I SNAPPED IT BACK TOGETHER AND RECLAMPED IT. The IDLING got a LITTLE bit better. I did a few inteernet searches re this subject. My conclusion was that the first thing to do (car wise) is replace the air filter. I drove back to the Wal-Mart and talked to the Assistant Manager (Manager off), and we left it that I would ask a Toyota dealer what the next thing to do would be and then pay her a visit tomorrow (she's expecting me).

******What damage could have occurred by driving 63 miles with the air filter housing split open like that?******************



Chances are it is just a coincidence and that no damage was done. There is a TSB about running rough after disconnecting the battery that pegs the throttle body needing cleaning as the culprit. Disconnecting the battery clears the short term fuel trims, so the ECM has to do some relearning. If the ECM got used to a dirty TB, it can take quite a while for it to be happy with it again.

[nookandcrannycar]

Chances are it is just a coincidence and that no damage was done. There is a TSB about running rough after disconnecting the battery that pegs the throttle body needing cleaning as the culprit. Disconnecting the battery clears the short term fuel trims, so the ECM has to do some relearning. If the ECM got used to a dirty TB, it can take quite a while for it to be happy with it again.

Thanks!:thumbsup: It is a little better this morning. While I was at Wal-Mart getting the new battery the four words 'ECM needs to relearn' kept running through my head, so I wonder if I skimmed that thread at some point. Lippitt posted a link to my other post about this and I followed that to two links posted by Altitude...one of which brought me to a post by yaris-me that reads "run a good fuel system cleaner". I know that thread wasn't specific to idle behavior after a battery disconnect, but if my idle doesn't return to what it was before the battery replacement would 'running a good fuel system cleaner' help my specific idle issue? If so, is there a 'good fuel system cleaner' that you would recommend?

[nookandcrannycar]

I am thinking no damage, the filter was still in place. You didn't drive through any sandstorms etc.

Of course there are others here more qualified than I am who could speak to this.

Thanks!:thumbsup: I read recently that there is some sort of sand/windstorm that occurs in only two places in the world -- the deserts of northern Africa, and Arizona. I'm glad this particular incident with my Yaris didn't happen in Arizona.

[CTScott]

Thanks!:thumbsup: It is a little better this morning. While I was at Wal-Mart getting the new battery the four words 'ECM needs to relearn' kept running through my head, so I wonder if I skimmed that thread at some point. Lippitt posted a link to my other post about this and I followed that to two links posted by Altitude...one of which brought me to a post by yaris-me that reads "run a good fuel system cleaner". I know that thread wasn't specific to idle behavior after a battery disconnect, but if my idle doesn't return to what it was before the battery replacement would 'running a good fuel system cleaner' help my specific idle issue? If so, is there a 'good fuel system cleaner' that you would recommend?

A fuel system cleaner won't help. Pick up a can of throttle body cleaner. The best way to clean it is to unbolt it so you can easily clean the entire inside of it.

[nookandcrannycar]

A fuel system cleaner won't help. Pick up a can of throttle body cleaner. The best way to clean it is to unbolt it so you can easily clean the entire inside of it.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

[nookandcrannycar]

I left to get gas right after making the post directly above. I hit a fair number of red lights, and the rough idle was gone....smooth as silk...must have finished the process CT described in post #12. I thought the new battery would make SOME difference (the issue with the radio would go away, and the dome light might get brighter).....but not this....the change is wonderful....I've read posts re similar changes, but didn't think they'd happen to be because I didn't have the same experience when I replaced the OEM battery with the first new replacement 3 years ago. The car now has so much more zip, the difference is just amazing. I don't plan to use it much unless I need to pass, but I'm glad it's there. The interference re the radio is gone and the radio is pulling in stations like it used to. The dome light is a bit brighter. The steering is amazing. I was worried that there was something wrong with the rack or perhaps the bearings were worn, but I now think it must have been the electric power steering not working in optimal fashion with the old battery not dead but operating far from optimally. The steering is fine now....all the previous issues I was having have disappeared. The clutch feels as though it has more life left as well.

I drove to Gullo Toyota (just so I could feel 100 percent certain that the Wal-Mart tech's screw up hadn't damaged my Yaris) and spoke with one of the service writers. He said that if Wal-Mart had left the housing open and in the position they did AND had also not put the air filter back that some damage might have occurred with that scenario, but not with my scenario. He said the worst that could have happened in my case (given that I noticed what Wal-Mart did and corrected it) is that the Check Engine light could have been tripped.

I also arranged for my new replacement tires (same as the current ones -- Firestone FR710s) and will have them installed on Wednesday and the current set of 4 will hit 85,000 miles right before they come off the car.

[Astroman]

Please try to post your threads in the correct thread section. It's getting old moving all the stuff from the "general discussion" when this was more in the DIY/Maintenance/Service related. I've moved it to the proper sections :thumbsup:

[MadMax]

Speaking of Walmart, since I've had to replace the batteries in two other vehicles already this year, and expect to have to do the same in Sprocket; I bought a small 9v battery device from Walmart that plugs into the cigarette lighter that keeps enough power to the car to prevent the ECU from resetting, the radio from erasing all the presets, etc.

Cost about seven bucks.

Cheers! M2

[DanMC]

Hi,

I am hoping to find out what sort of information do I need when purchasing an aftermarket battery? I have searched and people are telling me don't waste money on OEM battery but instead get a good big name one. I have made a choice for a brand but since there are so many batteries out there, how can I tell which one fits in our Yaris?

07 HB.

Thanks

Optima makes some of the best batteries period...and its an AGM...i have used Optima (and it's Canadian Tire "replica") for years and i can say they are durable and take abuse like crazy. I have one (Red Top/starting battery) in our Honda Pilot and one in our Lund fishing boat (with two Honda outboards...Blue Top/Marine grade) and they are just great,i wouldn't buy anything else:thumbsup:.
Dan

[nookandcrannycar]

Speaking of Walmart, since I've had to replace the batteries in two other vehicles already this year, and expect to have to do the same in Sprocket; I bought a small 9v battery device from Walmart that plugs into the cigarette lighter that keeps enough power to the car to prevent the ECU from resetting, the radio from erasing all the presets, etc.

Cost about seven bucks.

Cheers! M2

Good to know.....and the Wal-Mart battery I've now had for 2 months and a couple of days is performing very well.

[bridgyslim]

anyone know whats the recommended battery size as in VOLTS: ?
AMP: ? AMP HR: ? . for a 2008 Toyota Vitz RS.

[Betrivent]

Optima makes some of the best batteries period...and its an AGM...i have used Optima (and it's Canadian Tire "replica") for years and i can say they are durable and take abuse like crazy. I have one (Red Top/starting battery) in our Honda Pilot and one in our Lund fishing boat (with two Honda outboards...Blue Top/Marine grade) and they are just great,i wouldn't buy anything else:thumbsup:.
Dan

Be careful - crap tire batteries are known to explode.

[DanMC]

Thanks Betrivent, i didn't know about crap tire batteries can exolode, the one i bought it was made in Spain not in china but you never know,thanks .
I do like to stick to Optima but even they have moved from US to Mexico...so one can only hope that the quality is still there...BTW watch out when it .comes to wallyworld because i have heard that enything made for walmart no mater what brand or product,wallyworld put so much pressure on manufacturers to make crap as cheap as possible.Anther words buy stuff someplace else and get the full quality behind the name !

[nookandcrannycar]

Thanks Betrivent, i didn't know about crap tire batteries can exolode, the one i bought it was made in Spain not in china but you never know,thanks .
I do like to stick to Optima but even they have moved from US to Mexico...so one can only hope that the quality is still there...BTW watch out when it .comes to wallyworld because i have heard that enything made for walmart no mater what brand or product,wallyworld put so much pressure on manufacturers to make crap as cheap as possible.Anther words buy stuff someplace else and get the full quality behind the name !

I've heard that as well, but have only found that to be true with their shoes. I've heard employees and other customers say not to buy their meat (not an issue since I don't know how to cook). I wouldn't buy their in house baked goods either. However, I did have a set of their tires on my Yaris and they lasted about 11k beyond the 60k rating.

[AGlobalThreat]

I've had an Odyssey pc680 in my 2008 sedan for over 2 years. It was in my 87 supra for 5 years before that. I bought it used over 7 years ago. I've put it through everything, even left it dead for months once. I've tried to jump someones car with it, it got it to crank but they were also impatient and wouldn't give it any time to charge. It is an amazing battery, you save a lot of weight and space from the top of the front end when switching from a standard sized battery. It has never given me any problems, any time it didn't work perfect it was because I killed it. A normal battery would have simply died too. As soon as the standard battery in my 2011 yaris gives me any problem, I'm putting an odyssey pc680 in it too. They are excellent bang for buck and they will make regular batteries seem completely obsolete. When you factor in how often a regular battery is replaced and it's cost, the odyssey ends up being cheaper in the end. I'll never go back to standard batteries.

http://deprived.krypt.com/IMG290.jpg
http://deprived.krypt.com/IMG291.jpg

My other newer one (over 2 years old):
http://deprived.krypt.com/IMG292.jpg

[b20vteg]

I'm gonna make this easy for myself, and several others here,

Hey Scott, just curious, what brand batteries do you have in your YARI?).
:bellyroll:

[edmscan]

My OEM battery finally gave up the ghost today .... it is TOTALLY dead, it doesn't even have enough power to run the interior light in my yaris. I had to get a boost today .. and turning on my headlights the car just stalled.

Tried to get it to the dealership (after boosting it again) and it just died on me when I had to slow down in traffic. Once the car got to lower rpm's ... it just died. So finally had to hook a booster pack up to the battery as the battery was not accepting a charge by the alternator. I was told that my battery was frozen ... and I would need a new one.

So ... now time to get a new battery. My car is now sitting at the dealership awaiting a new battery tomorrow.

[Betrivent]

But.. if your engine is running it shouldn't stall like that. I actually think it's your alternator. Do a test, start the car with a jump, then disconnect a lead off the battery. If the car dies, it's your alternator gone. If it doesn't, it's your battery.

[edmscan]

Replaced the battery today .. and its all working fine. The battery was totally shot .. the dealership tested it and it was dead. Like really dead.

So .. 121$ later and I am good to go. The battery was the original battery in the car .. so it was 6 years old which around here is amazing life for a battery.

So .. I just hope that the new one lasts that long.

[edmscan]

But.. if your engine is running it shouldn't stall like that. I actually think it's your alternator. Do a test, start the car with a jump, then disconnect a lead off the battery. If the car dies, it's your alternator gone. If it doesn't, it's your battery.

I will actually go tomorrow to a local business that specializes in batteries and they will test your battery / charging system for free. So .. I will see what they say.

[nookandcrannycar]

But.. if your engine is running it shouldn't stall like that. I actually think it's your alternator. Do a test, start the car with a jump, then disconnect a lead off the battery. If the car dies, it's your alternator gone. If it doesn't, it's your battery.

I would have agreed with you 100% on this before my experience with my Yaris (now I would be about 98% in agreement :biggrin:). I kept my OEM battery until its dying day, literally (and at 138,000+ miles). I wouldn't have made it even another mile. I thought I was going to have to push the car into the bay at Sears (in Texas). 21,000 miles later I had the same symptoms and it tested out to be the alternator (which I assumed it would be). I was in Minnesota, and (coincidentally) Sears had the best available deal.

[edmscan]

I would have agreed with you 100% on this before my experience with my Yaris (now I would be about 98% in agreement :biggrin:). I kept my OEM battery until its dying day, literally (and at 138,000+ miles). I wouldn't have made it even another mile. I thought I was going to have to push the car into the bay at Sears (in Texas). 21,000 miles later I had the same symptoms and it tested out to be the alternator (which I assumed it would be). I was in Minnesota, and (coincidentally) Sears had the best available deal.

So are you saying that my alternator is bad ... and it wasn't the battery ? That would really suck .. as well I just got a new battery. The thing is that I drove my car on Saturday (and it was fine, no problems) and on Monday it was dead. I am going to get my alternator (ie charging system) checked later today .. and I will post the results.

[Betrivent]

just quickly test what I mentioned, all you need is a wrench to undo the terminal. It'll take less than 10 minutes, depending how much charge is in your battery.

[edmscan]

I went and got my battery / charging system tested today ... and all was good. So .. I have the new OEM battery in my Yaris since yesterday and all appears to be running good.

He hooked up his machine to the battery and it was displaying 13.94 Volts. This was as the car was running at idle. He said my charging system is just fine, and that if my battery is dead it will have symptoms like I just experienced.

So I am happy that I should get another 5 or so years before I have to replace the battery again.

[nookandcrannycar]

So are you saying that my alternator is bad ... and it wasn't the battery ? That would really suck .. as well I just got a new battery. The thing is that I drove my car on Saturday (and it was fine, no problems) and on Monday it was dead. I am going to get my alternator (ie charging system) checked later today .. and I will post the results.

No, I meant that before my experience with my Yaris I would have 100% agreed with Betrivent that your issue is a bad alternator, but that my first experience of the 'alternator like' symptoms ended up being the battery rather than alternator. So, I learned that the symptoms CAN apply to either a battery problem or an alternator problem. Whenever I'd had such symptoms on previous cars, the problem had always been the alternator. When I had the symptoms for the second time on my Yaris (21,000 miles later), the problem was the alternator.

[nookandcrannycar]

I went and got my battery / charging system tested today ... and all was good. So .. I have the new OEM battery in my Yaris since yesterday and all appears to be running good.

He hooked up his machine to the battery and it was displaying 13.94 Volts. This was as the car was running at idle. He said my charging system is just fine, and that if my battery is dead it will have symptoms like I just experienced.

So I am happy that I should get another 5 or so years before I have to replace the battery again.

Glad it was your battery and not the alternator. I was also having the beginning of similar symptoms when I replaced (on 9-26-2012) my second battery after 3 years and 87k+ miles on that second battery and 225k+ on my Yaris (several members have posted that summer heat, to the extent we have here, is beally hard on car batteries). I have read comments from a few high mileage Yarisworld members that their cars felt a bit revitalized after getting a new battery. After what I initially thought might be an issue but wasn't (CTScott wrote that likely my ECM just needed to relearn the fuel trims...and naturally he was right), my car did feel peppier than before the previous battery had developed any symptoms. Alternator failure was discussed on a long ago thread and I remember a few people bringing up something that is unique to 2007 models that was contributing to alternator failures, but I don't remember what the unique to 2007 issue was. I hope your alternator never has any issues and lasts the life of your Yaris :biggrin:.

[WeeYari]

Alternator failure was discussed on a long ago thread and I remember a few people bringing up something that is unique to 2007 models that was contributing to alternator failures, but I don't remember what the unique to 2007 issue was.

Corrosion within the voltage regulator.

[edmscan]

Yes .. I hope that my Yaris goes for many more km, or miles (whichever is more ... ):thumbup:

[nookandcrannycar]

Corrosion within the voltage regulator.

Aha, thank you! :thumbsup:

[jukai2k]

Hi all,

I have a 2sz-fe engine its 1.3L and I'm doing some shopping around. I saw a battery that had a "26r" would this be compatible with my 2007 vitz?

[nookandcrannycar]

Hi all,

I have a 2sz-fe engine its 1.3L and I'm doing some shopping around. I saw a battery that had a "26r" would this be compatible with my 2007 vitz?

I have a 2007 1.5L with a '26r' in it. My OEM battery lasted 138,111 miles and I replaced that with a '26r' and replaced that '26r' after exactly 3 years and 86,858 miles (oops, I put 87k + on a couple of other posts) with another '26r'. I have almost 9k miles and about 4 months on the new/second '26r'. Both '26r' batteries were inexpensive (see post 7 on this thread for details).

[baseballfan416]

Just replaced original oem battery this weekend. '07 with just under 83k miles on it. Car was still starting, but under duress; battery test revealed 233 cca's. Went to menards, got 30 month free replacement group 35 battery for like $70. Batteries plus wanted $100 for their "cheap" and Fleet Farm said they didn't even have a battery for the yaris.

[Yarflana]

I think my battery has 4 years and 80K on it from Wal-Mart, so I just bought an 11lb Braille from MI and will see what happens. My current battery is causing some rough starts and static in the radio I believe...time for a change before click, click click one morning or hot afternoon. This is a great discussion.

[nookandcrannycar]

Just replaced original oem battery this weekend. '07 with just under 83k miles on it. Car was still starting, but under duress; battery test revealed 233 cca's. Went to menards, got 30 month free replacement group 35 battery for like $70. Batteries plus wanted $100 for their "cheap" and Fleet Farm said they didn't even have a battery for the yaris.

That is a great price for a 35 with that level of guarantee :thumbsup:. On a trip later this year I'll be near a Menards, but the only trouble (for me, not for many others) would be the geography of executing the warranty, as the two southernmost stores are in Wichita, KS and Cape Girardeau, MO. I've found Batteries Plus to be overpriced on nearly everything they carry. I've comparison shopped there, but I've never ended up buying anything.

[nookandcrannycar]

static in the radio

Good to know that someone else has had this symptom. I had it (in the last stage of use) with both my OEM, and the battery after that. I tried to squeeze too much life out of my OEM, and probably the next as well (intervals already mentioned earlier on this thread).

[Yarflana]

Question...put the voltmeter on my battery and it had 12.8 volts which I have read is really a good state to be in. Can a battery be "winding down" and still have that level of voltage? I am tending to think it wasn't as in bad shape as I thought.

I did buy a battery tender for it when I put in the racing battery in case that racing battery doesn't have the gusto it needs.

[CTScott]

Question...put the voltmeter on my battery and it had 12.8 volts which I have read is really a good state to be in. Can a battery be "winding down" and still have that level of voltage? I am tending to think it wasn't as in bad shape as I thought.

I did buy a battery tender for it when I put in the racing battery in case that racing battery doesn't have the gusto it needs.

With no load a bad battery can read that high. If you want to see how good or bad one is keep the voltmeter on while cranking the starter.

[Yarflana]

Ok, so what should happen when the battery is good and cranking the starter...what happens when bad?

[Yarflana]

Ok, just put my voltmeter on both our Yaris and Honda CRV and when cranking the system, the volts dropped from 12.8 to about 10.5 for the Honda and 11.5 for the Yaris, then they hovered at about 14.6 each during idle. I would say they are both starting to wane since I learned that they should not drop hardly below 12 volts when trying to start the car and the CRV is worse and may be set for a replacement soon?

[CTScott]

Ok, just put my voltmeter on both our Yaris and Honda CRV and when cranking the system, the volts dropped from 12.8 to about 10.5 for the Honda and 11.5 for the Yaris, then they hovered at about 14.6 each during idle. I would say they are both starting to wane since I learned that they should not drop hardly below 12 volts when trying to start the car and the CRV is worse and may be set for a replacement soon?

My brand new battery sags to just under 11 when cranking. My bad one would drop to 8 volts during cranking.

[hjsya]

I see that a number of people have the 26R battery size installed. I tried one of those (Everlast, I believe), but found it too low. The original battery is 7.75" high, the 26R measured 7". The battery bracket would not even touch the battery. I realize one could improvise and install a spacer. However, is there no exact fit available as replacement?

[nookandcrannycar]

I see that a number of people have the 26R battery size installed. I tried one of those (Everlast, I believe), but found it too low. The original battery is 7.75" high, the 26R measured 7". The battery bracket would not even touch the battery. I realize one could improvise and install a spacer. However, is there no exact fit available as replacement?

The 26R fits fine on my Yaris. When I replaced the OEM battery, I took it to Wal-Mart and they tried to put in a 35 and it wouldn't fit. I ended up going to Sears and getting a 1 year guarantee 26R that lasted 3 years (Sept 2009-Sept 2012). By September 2012 the prices on the Sears 1 year 26R had increased quite a bit. I decided to go to a different Wal-Mart and see if they would put in a 26R (without asking in advance) if their 35 again didn't fit (Wal-Mart's 26R is cheaper than Sears 26R). I went to the new Wal-Mart and the 35 wouldn't fit so he stopped and told me he'd put in the 26R on his way to the back room to get the 26R. He also showed me (before putting in the 26R) why the 35 wouldn't fit --- the 35 clears the hood while sitting in the proper place, but the clamp that holds the battery down won't fit over it.

YMMV, as (based on some Gen 2 hatch owners having no clamp issues) I'm assuming there must have been some variation in the clamps used for different manufacture date ranges.

A few weeks ago, I was listening to the radio in my car, but also engrossed in a phone conversation. After the phone conversation, my car wouldn't start. I called AAA. Besides getting me started, the driver also tested the battery, asked me some questions, and then said the battery should be replaced, so make sure you clean it up a bit before you go to Wal-Mart so that they won't try to claim you didn't take care of the battery and try to weasel out of the guarantee. Once I do that, I'll live with the free replacement until late this year or early/mid next year and then I'll figure out how to remedy the clamp situation and get the same 35 series NAPA battery that CTScott has in at least one of his Yarii.

[nookandcrannycar]

^^^^^ Update from previous post. Finally wiped down the battery and took the car in to Wal-Mart. The car sometimes hestitates slightly before turning over, but has started every time since the AAA call on April 25th. On that call, the test the driver performed (per the printout he gave me) showed the battery results (under load) to be 11.41 volts, 49 cold cranking amps (rated at 550) and temperature 78 degrees. Then it says charge ____ retest and the word there in the middle (___) has faded so much it is illegible.

Below the battery results on the 4-25-13 printout, the next section reads 'starter test' , then reads 'batt. voltage too low' and lists the voltage as 9.430 and the amps as 129.84 .

Below the 'starter test' on this printout, the final section reads 'charging system test' and then 'no problems' and then reads 'no load' 14.000 and 'loaded' 13.620 .

That driver cleaned off quite a bit of built up corrosion and then sprayed the battery with the kind of anti-corrosion spray that one can buy at an auto parts store.

Fast forward to now. I had the battery tested at Wal Mart and they said it is fine. They said in is registering the full CCA measurement that it should and I asked hat the voltage reading was and they said 12.7 (I didn't ask if that was under load or not). As I was getting back in the car, one of the techs said I shouls get some of the anti corrosive spray and use it and another tech couldn't find a stray can of spray to use then, but grapped a wire brush to remove the slight bit of corrosion that had built up.

Given the above, should I believe that the battery is good, or should I go to AutoZone and see if they'll test it for me and then go back to a different Wal-Mart if necessary?

The battery is the Wal-Mart one with the 1 year replacement warranty (new September 2012) code 26R. The receipt shows 26R-5S .

[Alexrahl]

^^^^^ Update from previous post. Finally wiped down the battery and took the car in to Wal-Mart. The car sometimes hestitates slightly before turning over, but has started every time since the AAA call on April 25th. On that call, the test the driver performed (per the printout he gave me) showed the battery results (under load) to be 11.41 volts, 49 cold cranking amps (rated at 550) and temperature 78 degrees. Then it says charge ____ retest and the word there in the middle (___) has faded so much it is illegible.

Below the battery results on the 4-25-13 printout, the next section reads 'starter test' , then reads 'batt. voltage too low' and lists the voltage as 9.430 and the amps as 129.84 .

Below the 'starter test' on this printout, the final section reads 'charging system test' and then 'no problems' and then reads 'no load' 14.000 and 'loaded' 13.620 .

That driver cleaned off quite a bit of built up corrosion and then sprayed the battery with the kind of anti-corrosion spray that one can buy at an auto parts store.

Fast forward to now. I had the battery tested at Wal Mart and they said it is fine. They said in is registering the full CCA measurement that it should and I asked hat the voltage reading was and they said 12.7 (I didn't ask if that was under load or not). As I was getting back in the car, one of the techs said I shouls get some of the anti corrosive spray and use it and another tech couldn't find a stray can of spray to use then, but grapped a wire brush to remove the slight bit of corrosion that had built up.

Given the above, should I believe that the battery is good, or should I go to AutoZone and see if they'll test it for me and then go back to a different Wal-Mart if necessary?

The battery is the Wal-Mart one with the 1 year replacement warranty (new September 2012) code 26R. The receipt shows 26R-5S .


Sounds like it is okay, can't hurt to double check to make you feel better though.

[nookandcrannycar]

Sounds like it is okay, can't hurt to double check to make you feel better though.

Thank you.

[Stew Baker]

I would stick with the Toyota battery. Mine lasted 9 years. I priced replacements at 2 other outlets and the Toyota price was the best. Never used a block heater, car always started in temperatures down to minus 25C.

[Frank the Tank]

Mine is starting to go and Toyota wants $160+ for the battery. Seems kinda high.

Anyone have any recommendations for a battery make/model? Needs to work well in freezing temperatures like -24* Celsius lol